Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[Irideslowly]

Build a mechanical tt bike!

[patliean1]

Build a mechanical tt bike!

Funny you mention that. My local team here has been trying to lure me into TT events. While my sprint is pretty decent for my weight, I'm more of a steady effort 45-60min kind of dude. Plus crit racing isn't exactly the safest form of racing ever.

My teammate has this sick TT setup with rim brake and Ultegra Di2. This is my ideal setup, and rim brake Di2 groupsets can be found with deep discounts these days.

[RDY]

So a few updates, managed to score a good deal on a Rival Etap grouppo without a cassette. Basically there are no cassettes in stock in Australia until Sept, all the local bike shops have inventory though for complete groupset purchases . I didnt want to wait that long to test it out seeing as I'm using 105+Juintechs and this is Rival  Etaps with Hydro. I also needed the XDR free hub to arrive so in the mean time, I purchased the new 12sp ultegra cassette and installed the sram shifters and deraileurs with the 12sp flat top chain in a set up I call SRAMANO.

Have taken it out for a few rides now, no issues. handled 1100w+ efforts but the biggest thing was the full hydro brakes. Juin Techs are great but man full hydro brakes are awesome.

I think you'd actually be better off running the XT or XTR chain, as you're running Shimano cassette and rings.  Usually you match the chain to the rings and cassette, not the derailleurs.  It's certainly what you do on MTB SRAMANO - and it works well.

[memebike]

I think you'd actually be better off running the XT or XTR chain, as you're running Shimano cassette and rings.  Usually you match the chain to the rings and cassette, not the derailleurs.  It's certainly what you do on MTB SRAMANO - and it works well.

I read the same thing about MTB SRAMANO but apparently the road RD's need/work better with the flat top chain? I've got the Rival Crank ready to install once  the BB arrives. So frustrating not being able to do it all at the same time. Also not to state the obvious but etaps are so easy to set up on this frame and just having the brake hoses run through the integrated bar was so quick to set up. I kinda want to build the n+2 now, either the 218/177 or the TT-X34.

[Sanderman91]

I have been reading a lot about the VB-R-168 frame and ordered one a month ago. Received it last monday and started building. Frame is a size 58 in Chameleon green matte. When the sun hits it at the right angle the bike is purple!

Ultegra groupset with 105 cranks and Fulcrum Racing wheels. I still need to do some adjusting with the groupset to make it run smoother.

Quality of the frame is good, paint looks great and everything was complete. Very happy with Velobuild.

I'll post better pictures when it's completely finished i've done the first big ride!

Coming upgrades; skinwall tyres and some custom stickers.

[Jwzard]

Sorry if this question is answered somewhere in the thead but do anyone have the real weights of frame, fork, seatpost and handlebar?

[OlieSimpson]

Sorry if this question is answered somewhere in the thead but do anyone have the real weights of frame, fork, seatpost and handlebar?

Here you go: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JRhus6SxSn-_OqfEiuNH-_bxQrsS67ouus0gICANTKk/edit#gid=704196738

Whilst I'm at it, I've clocked 2,000km's on mine in 4 months and it's been great. Not a single issue with the build process or on any of the rides I've had on it. Maybe I'm lucky and got a good frame, or maybe some people are unlucky and get a 'bad one', however in my case I'd highly recommend it!

[RDY]

Asking in this thread as it's bigger and the 099 and 168 share the same thru-axle thread that's attached to the fork dropout with that small screw.

Has anyone had a problem with it?  Hex size seems to be the very rare 2.25mm.  2mm is too small and 2.5mm is too big.  Can't get the screw fully threaded as a result.

[s3si1u]

Asking in this thread as it's bigger and the 099 and 168 share the same thru-axle thread that's attached to the fork dropout with that small screw.

Has anyone had a problem with it?  Hex size seems to be the very rare 2.25mm.  2mm is too small and 2.5mm is too big.  Can't get the screw fully threaded as a result.

Just tagging along here because the 177 also has that small screw and I've always wondered about it. Does anyone know if it serves any purpose other than to hold the end cap in place? I removed the little end cap on mine and stuck the screw back in just to simplify removing/replacing the axle.

[RDY]

Just tagging along here because the 177 also has that small screw and I've always wondered about it. Does anyone know if it serves any purpose other than to hold the end cap in place? I removed the little end cap on mine and stuck the screw back in just to simplify removing/replacing the axle.

Either the 177 has a different system or you're thinking of the rear dropout.  If you remove the end cap on the 099 / 168 fork then you have nothing to thread the thru axle through.

[RDY]

Just tagging along here because the 177 also has that small screw and I've always wondered about it. Does anyone know if it serves any purpose other than to hold the end cap in place? I removed the little end cap on mine and stuck the screw back in just to simplify removing/replacing the axle.

P.S. I know the screw serves no purpose with the axle in.  But I can imagine the fucking thing falling down a drain when I take the front wheel out to transport the bike, if I leave the screw off. 

[1Sigma]

P.S. I know the screw serves no purpose with the axle in.  But I can imagine the fucking thing falling down a drain when I take the front wheel out to transport the bike, if I leave the screw off.

I forget what hex wrench I used, but I had one that fit (I imagine we all have a collection of tiny hex wrenches that came with stuff…)

A lot of people have reported that screw coming off on this forum.
Seems the answer is a dab of blue thread locker.   

[Chewy4u]

When I tighten the headset, it doesn't rub with the frame. There's actually a few millimeters between the headset and the frame. I've had that issue you mentioned with my previous Velobuild and I fixed with the same type of thin spacers.

The problem now seems like no matter how much I tighten the headset, there's some play in the steering when braking. And if I keep tightning it up, the compression plug slips up.

So I guess that's not a common occurrence for this bike? hm, I'll keep investigating what could be the issue.

Still having issues with the vb-168... Went as far to file down the "tabs" on the original (new style) c-ring, using a 2" compression plug and adding 4, 0.25mm micro spacers, still had substantial headset play. Currently awaiting new Deda 270° c-ring to verify if this will work


Update:
The new 270° round Deda c-ring work. I tried both, the Deda 36° and 45° angle. Both work. 

The original VB half-ring was ~1.12cm wide and had quite a gap between the head tube and headset assembly.

I reduced the Deda by 3.76mm and sanded til smooth.  Since the Deda were plastic I used 1, 0.25mm micro spacer as a protective layer. Now there are no gaps and the assembly is flush.

[memebike]

Anyone else freak out when having to remove a pressfit bb? just took mine out and installed a dub BB so SRAMANO is no more. So nerve wracking hitting a bb out of the frame lol.

[hazzer19]

Anyone else freak out when having to remove a pressfit bb? just took mine out and installed a dub BB so SRAMANO is no more. So nerve wracking hitting a bb out of the frame lol.

100% After installing a pressfit BB in my new 168 frame I had to hammer it out only two days after because I accidentally disconnected some wires. Threaded pressfit BB's after that!