Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[some guy]

Can you guys tell whether the seatpost or the mounting hardware is twisted?

[BerndSon]

Can you guys tell whether the seatpost or the mounting hardware is twisted?

just spend some minutes to check where its coming from.

First thing I noticed is, that the seat post itself is already slightly twisted in the seat tube. There is quite a lot play when it's not clamped and in my case, clamping results in a big gap on the left side whereas no gap on the right side. This matches the rotating direction of the my saddle and the one which could be seen some posts above. It's only some tenths of a millimeter for the small length of the seat post but will have bigger impact for the distance from mid of seat post to notch of the saddle which we are looking at.
Not sure if this is the root cause or only a contributor to the overall misalignment.

I will try to put some thin metal foil between seat post and frame (like some others already did to prevent slipping) in order to get a even gap on both sides in clamped condition and will report about the outcome.

I can't tell now if the misalignment causes seating problems since only did some 150km on test-drives so far but it definitely is something I would immediately realign with a round seat post

i will do some posts and pictures about my build as soon its fully done since there have been a couple small issues (also regarding the headset play) which  needed to be fixed and aren't mentioned in this or the related threads so far...

[BerndSon]

...blablabla...
I will try to put some thin metal foil between seat post and frame (like some others already did to prevent slipping) in order to get a even gap on both sides in clamped condition and will report about the outcome.
...blablabla...

Finally found some minutes to elaborate on this topic!

in Short:
my saddle looked the same as for Siejak, - I was able to fix it by inserting three small sheets of a soda can metal foil  at the right side between Seatpost and Frame.  By doing so, the Saddle was perfectly aligned.

To those who are affected, - just loosen your seatpost clamp and try to rotate the saddle to the left and right. I was able to rotate it by approx. ± 5 degree. As soon as the clamping device is tensioned, the notch of the saddle rotates to the right and the gap between seatpost and frame looks like described in the prior post.

If someone is motivated to dig deeper: Maybe the root cause for the misalignment is not the huge clearance between seatpost and frame but the contact angle of clamping inlet to seatpost. (=clamping device forces the seatpost to rotate). If thats the case, modifying the clamping device would also solve the problem.

For the time being, i will continue with my fix since it simply worked.

The dust cap covers the shims perfectly, - they are invisible now and the saddle is perfectly aligned when clamped with 5-6Nm.

kind regards

[straycat]

I am having trouble with running the front derailleur cable to the housing in the frame, while the housing is attached to the frame I cant get the cable into it just seems impossible to try an fit the cable into the housing through the bottom bracket opening, if I remove the housing to seat the cable outer the housing will not go back into the frame, anyone else have this trouble and if so can you let me know how you did it 

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Finally found some minutes to elaborate on this topic!

in Short:
my saddle looked the same as for Siejak, - I was able to fix it by inserting three small sheets of a soda can metal foil  at the right side between Seatpost and Frame.  By doing so, the Saddle was perfectly aligned.

To those who are affected, - just loosen your seatpost clamp and try to rotate the saddle to the left and right. I was able to rotate it by approx. ± 5 degree. As soon as the clamping device is tensioned, the notch of the saddle rotates to the right and the gap between seatpost and frame looks like described in the prior post.

If someone is motivated to dig deeper: Maybe the root cause for the misalignment is not the huge clearance between seatpost and frame but the contact angle of clamping inlet to seatpost. (=clamping device forces the seatpost to rotate). If thats the case, modifying the clamping device would also solve the problem.

For the time being, i will continue with my fix since it simply worked.

The dust cap covers the shims perfectly, - they are invisible now and the saddle is perfectly aligned when clamped with 5-6Nm.

kind regards

The can fix worked for me so far. Hoping it doesn’t cause a slip and drop the seat post. Guess that’s the price we pay buying open mold.

[gruengelb]

I am having trouble with running the front derailleur cable to the housing in the frame, while the housing is attached to the frame I cant get the cable into it just seems impossible to try an fit the cable into the housing through the bottom bracket opening, if I remove the housing to seat the cable outer the housing will not go back into the frame, anyone else have this trouble and if so can you let me know how you did it 

I had the same problem on my VB 177. I sanded the endcap of the cable housing down a bit til it fitted

[carbonazza]

The can fix worked for me so far. Hoping it doesn’t cause a slip and drop the seat post. Guess that’s the price we pay buying open mold.

Not sure this will age well, since these are two different materials under a moving load.
I'm always astounded how tolerant many are with Velobuild quirks, and settle on workarounds.

[BerndSon]

Not sure this will age well, since these are two different materials under a moving load.
I'm always astounded how tolerant many are with Velobuild quirks, and settle on workarounds.

I´m quite optimistic that this fix won't cause a problem (slipping or anything else) since the can-sheets only support the alignment of the seat post. Due to the aero-shape of the seat post, clamping anyway only takes place in direction of where the load is applied, so front and back section of the seat post.

Since this has been the only quirk for me so far, I`m O.K with it given the price.

Anyhow, I fully agree with you that such fixes shouldn't be necessary. My major concern is the following: I still believe the design and manufacturing process of such a frame requires some know how, precise craftsmanship and good quality processes and does not leave much space for errors. The appearance of such trivial issues like that one with the seatpost and many others leaves me with the question whether those guys put all attention in the frame building and just f**k up with the accessory parts (clamping device, headset parts like C-clip, stem...) or if we just don't see cracked frames because making them is easier / more forgiving then I thought.

What are your thoughts on that? Is a 1000gram VB Frame just too far from reaching any material / stability limits or are they simply way better in building the frame then doing the finish, Q-control and accessory parts?

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Ready to race! Got the bars wrapped and brakes bled. Took it out for a shakedown ride and everything feels great. I think I'd be hard pressed to tell much of a difference between this and the SL7, apart from weight making the SL7 slightly more snappy. I went 1x because this will be a crit bike and I didn't feel like dealing with routing another cable and a front mech. If I upgrade to electronic in the future I'd probably throw on a front mech but this was a budget build so I'm happy with the mech group I had laying around. Considering buying some decals for the wheels. I don;t like the new Zipp logo, think I'd go with the old logo in white. I love the look of white logos on wheels.

168 Frameset, size 58
Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels, Challenge Criterium RS tires 27mm, Muc Off valve stems, 160/140 discs
Shimano 105 mech grupo, 50t AbsoluteBlack chainring, 11-30t cassette
Kocevlo 1 piece bar/stem, 40cm/120mm, LizardSkins tape, Supacaz bar ends and stem cap
West Biking 3D printed saddle
ZTTO bottle cages
Look Pedals
Rapilock thru axles
Garmin 530, Garmin Varia
GoPro 8 on a custom 3D printed mount






Handlebars: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804787569282.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Saddle: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804999444467.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Bottle cages: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800808341640.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.184.4ba218023whaeR&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

[omzebras]

Just starting my 168 build with Di2 - am I supposed to route the front derailleur wire through the cable stop, or through the hole that comes with a rubber cap in it directly below the derailleur mount? If it isn't for Di2, what is that hole for?

[hazzer19]

Awesome and unique looking build!

Ready to race! Got the bars wrapped and brakes bled. Took it out for a shakedown ride and everything feels great. I think I'd be hard pressed to tell much of a difference between this and the SL7, apart from weight making the SL7 slightly more snappy. I went 1x because this will be a crit bike and I didn't feel like dealing with routing another cable and a front mech. If I upgrade to electronic in the future I'd probably throw on a front mech but this was a budget build so I'm happy with the mech group I had laying around. Considering buying some decals for the wheels. I don;t like the new Zipp logo, think I'd go with the old logo in white. I love the look of white logos on wheels.

168 Frameset, size 58
Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels, Challenge Criterium RS tires 27mm, Muc Off valve stems, 160/140 discs
Shimano 105 mech grupo, 50t AbsoluteBlack chainring, 11-30t cassette
Kocevlo 1 piece bar/stem, 40cm/120mm, LizardSkins tape, Supacaz bar ends and stem cap
West Biking 3D printed saddle
ZTTO bottle cages
Look Pedals
Rapilock thru axles
Garmin 530, Garmin Varia
GoPro 8 on a custom 3D printed mount






Handlebars: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804787569282.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Saddle: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804999444467.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Bottle cages: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800808341640.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.184.4ba218023whaeR&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

[hazzer19]

Just starting my 168 build with Di2 - am I supposed to route the front derailleur wire through the cable stop, or through the hole that comes with a rubber cap in it directly below the derailleur mount? If it isn't for Di2, what is that hole for?

I think I recall the hole with the rubber cap you are talking about, but I ended up going through the cable stop for some reason with mine. I had to drill out the cable stop a bit as the head of the Di2 wire didn't fit. I would look at the hole you are referring to in case it works better.

[curvenut]

From The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play thread

3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap.

 Which C ring is used here to avoid the rubbing ?
Someone had a link to the nline merchant ?

Thanks

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Which C ring is used here to avoid the rubbing ?
Someone had a link to the nline merchant ?

Thanks

If I remember right, people were just taking the standard headset spacer rings (thin circular shims I think like 0.5mm thick?) and just cutting them to match the C shape of the wedge piece.

[curvenut]

Despite of all the reported problems, I did a dry run on the headset today.

The good thing is that the new version of the headset is delivered with split spcers and that it should eliminate any play without adding micro spacers.

On the downside, the compressing ring with the dustcover builds up that high that there is a gap of 2mm between the frame and the dustcover. Thereby, the dustcover has no rubber sealing. So there is no protection for the bearing, which btw is of poor quality as well - the sealing is not worth its name, one can see the balls.

I menwhile deeply regret the purchase of the frame.

Hi,

   Wondring if the recent folks who bought this frame had that gap problemv between the frame and dust cover??
Also does it come now with a better quality sealed bearing ??

Thanks