The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!

[riding_truckee]

Finally a full build pic. Nice build. Your dropper cable housing will rub down on your shock. What was your solution for housing knocking inside the frame and rear swing arm?

Any idea for an elegant rear mud guard? I have not figured one out.

Hopefully you guys have cycle the rear suspension  movement for any binding. The top link at the top tube  might need a 10*16*1 spacer bushing. Very well depend on the frame tolerance.


No pic from me as mine is generic black build. Pretty much the same looks just all black.

The top link at the top tube already has bushings and it is a tight fit, that's the one i disassembled to mount the rear shock.

Re: dropper cable rubbing in the shock, yes it will be an issue. I have no idea of what to do, do you?
SC HT seems to route the dropper cable somewhere else.. not sure where.
Re: cable knocking inside the frame, in past builds I've stuck a piece of copper-tube insulation foam (the one that looks a bit like a pool noodle) in the downtube, from the headtube. I'll do it when the knocking starts bothering me... sometimes you get lucky and it doesn't happen.
Re: mud guard, not a problem in CA, at least not for now.. unfortunately.

[Snacks]

i found this pic of the aluminum hightower that shows how they route the dropper cable. i was hoping it would be similar for this frame. oh and these 3m cable clips might work if theres nothing in there to hold the cable

[BSAM]

riding_truckee,

Would you share with us where you brought the mounting hardware for the rear shock? 

Really nice build.  Thank you for sharing with us.

Bsam.

[FlaMtnBkr]

I think this is most everything. Got an email last week that frame was going to painting so hopefully shipped by end of week and once it's here I'll fill in blanks as well as any issues, tips, etc that I encounter when building...

Frame: Haideli AM831
Fork: Suntour Auron35 Boost (EQ RC2 PCS 15QLC 29) - smaller brother to Durolux, similar to a Lyrik and Pike
Shock: Suntour TriAir (3CR 210x55)
Mounting hardware:
     Front: 8x30
     Rear: 8x22.2 RWC bearing with 0.5mm shims
Wheelset:
     Hubs: DT Swiss 350 (Boost, center lock, straight pull, 28 hole)
     Rims: Light Bicycle 28mm ID Asym (AM928)
     Spokes: Sapim D-light
     Nipples: Sapim, aluminum (supposed to be brass but was sent these so will try them out)
     Valve stems:
     Rim tape:
Tires: haven't decided but have a few to try
Stem: 31.8 x40 Wake from ali that looks similar to Uno stems
Headset: included
Headset spacers: CF 3k matte
Handlebar: 31.8, 30mm rise, 800mm width (have aluminum and carbon - trying to figure out how different up and back angles feel)
Grips: Oury clamp on
Seatpost: OneUp 31.6x210 (or a 180mm if other doesn't fit)
Seat: China Shimano Pro Clone (most comfortable saddle I've tried recently and only $10)
Bottom bracket: ZTTO threaded PF92 24mm spindle
Cranks: Shimano STX M7120 170mm boost
Chainring: Shimano STX M7100 32T
Pedals: Shimano XT clipless
Chain: Shimano M7100 12s
Cassette: Shimano M7100 10-51 12 speed
Derailleur - Rear: Shimano M7100
Shifter: Shimano XT M8100 12s
Brakes: Shimano M6120 Deore 4 piston
Brake rotor:
     Front: Tektro centerlock 203mm
     Rear: Tektro CL 180 or 203
Extras:
     ZTTO ISCG-05 chain guide - might switch out for something with a polymer plate to protect chainring depending how things go
     Helicopter tape
     Downtube protector - will start with a layer of thick silicone tape covered with slightly wider car wrap tape that has heat activated adhesive and pulls tight against
     contours. Depending how that holds up might try kydex and also try to make a fender to cover linkage and shock


Will try to edit and put a link to where purchased or at least the price, below:

Frame:
Fork:
Shock:
Mounting hardware:
     Front:
     Rear:
Wheelset:
     Hubs:
     Rims:
     Spokes:
     Nipples:
     Valve stems:
     Rim tape:
Tires:
Stem:
Headset:
Headset spacers:
Handlebar:
Grips:
Seatpost:
Seat:
Bottom bracket:
Cranks:
Chainring:
Pedals:
Chain:
Cassette:
Derailleur - Rear:
Shifter:
Brakes:
Brake rotor:
     Front:
     Rear:
Extras:

[Confused]

A few more items for people looking.  30mm roller bearing for shock, shims for rear mount, and silicone things to wrap cable to prevent rub against shock and stop rattling in frames.


30mm roller bearing https://www.fanatikbike.com/products/fox-racing-shox-roller-bearing-rear-shock-mounting-kit

M8x14 shims - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002301164770.html

Cable anti-rattle and anti-rub https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001632446940.html

[riding_truckee]

riding_truckee,

Would you share with us where you brought the mounting hardware for the rear shock? 

Really nice build.  Thank you for sharing with us.

Bsam.

CambriaBike.com because thy had both in stock, last week.

[BSAM]

Gentlemen,

Is this Fox Eyelet Roller Bearing Kit works, in place of the M8x30mm Hardware we talked about?  Thank you for your advices as always.

https://cambriabike.com/products/fox-suspension-eyelet-roller-bearing-kit

[scourge]

I pulled the trigger on a fork because it was a good deal. Now I just realized it's 51mm offset. What are people's thoughts on this? Was this frame designed for a shorter offset fork? Should I send it back and find a 44mm offset? Or will there really be no difference?

[cybrsrce]

I pulled the trigger on a fork because it was a good deal. Now I just realized it's 51mm offset. What are people's thoughts on this? Was this frame designed for a shorter offset fork? Should I send it back and find a 44mm offset? Or will there really be no difference?

I kind of like it over the feel of a 44 or 42 after swapping forks between bikes.  I don't like the front of the bike to be twitchy and that few mm lengthens the wheelbase and trail a little and makes it a little less responsive.  If you ride a lot of fast flow switchbacks maybe consider swapping for a 44mm.
*I'll be moving my 51mm Lyrik over so I hope it doesn't suck

[FlaMtnBkr]

Gentlemen,

Is this Fox Eyelet Roller Bearing Kit works, in place of the M8x30mm Hardware we talked about?  Thank you for your advices as always.

https://cambriabike.com/products/fox-suspension-eyelet-roller-bearing-kit

The 30mm goes on the front side which doesn't move much so isn't of much benefit. If you get a bearing you want it at the back side where the linkage rotates quite a bit in relation to the shock and having it easier to rotate is more beneficial. So if going to get a bearing go with one for the 22.2 mm width.

[emu26]

I kind of like it over the feel of a 44 or 42 after swapping forks between bikes.  I don't like the front of the bike to be twitchy and that few mm lengthens the wheelbase and trail a little and makes it a little less responsive.  If you ride a lot of fast flow switchbacks maybe consider swapping for a 44mm.
*I'll be moving my 51mm Lyrik over so I hope it doesn't suck

I thought the same as you but we are wrong, increasing offset actually reduces trail.

https://www.theproscloset.com/blogs/news/why-mountain-bike-use-reduced-offset-forks

[darius72]

My orange M frame should be on his way.
Meanwhile I bought most of the parts, I share my list with comments to give&receive suggestions:

Wheels: carbonality 30 mm asymmetric with DT swiss 350 and sapim cx ray: they look very well done and extremely light; I have been using a wheelset from same company on another bike for 8 years, no complains.
Groupset: all shimano XT 12 speed, it was not easy to find it; somehow I prefer shimano over Sram, but it is personal.
Brakes:still missing, I want formula cura 2 pots, but it looks like they are sold out around the world; plan B is shimano XT.
Fork: manitou mezzer pro, excursion internally changeable between 140-180 mm; I plan to start with 160 mm.
rear shock: dt swiss 535, I have just found out it has its special mounting system (it has a unibal in the eyelet), needs special hardware, maybe some filing or shims for perfect fit.
Seat post: elita one aliexpress, I don`t like/use droppers: for me they are just more weight and more problems, I change my seat height stopping and using a QR
Saddle: carbon aliexpress
Handlebar: here I ask for suggestion, I am looking for a reliable carbon one without breaking the bank: I selected og-evkin, but they don`t say if it is ok for enduro use; another option is ican rise (it says enduro capable) but possibly I would avoid the 35 mm diameter bars
Pedals: titanium flat aliexpress
Tyres: minion 2.5 wt  front and rekon 2.4 wt rear

Concerning fork rake, there is a difference in bike behaviour as you can read on various forums, but it is minimal, at least for the amateur, you will be fine anyway.

[cybrsrce]

I thought the same as you but we are wrong, increasing offset actually reduces trail.

https://www.theproscloset.com/blogs/news/why-mountain-bike-use-reduced-offset-forks

I accidentally a word there - lengthens the wheelbase and reduces trail a little and makes it a little less responsive.

But yes, I thought that for a while until I saw how it was measured.  +/-10mm of trail when you're already over 100mm doesn't feel less stable to me but that is with my anecdotal rider feeling hat on and not as an engineer. 
If you already have a 51mm fork I don't see a reason not to give it a go.  That said, if I don't like how it feels I will replace it with a newer Lyrik or a Zeb in 44mm and will relay my experience.

[cybrsrce]

Seat post: elita one aliexpress, I don`t like/use droppers: for me they are just more weight and more problems, I change my seat height stopping and using a QR

Old school   They are pretty reliable now even my oldest working Easton Haven doesn't give me problem unless it is used constantly for 2+ hours then it seems to overheat and come up really slow.   Oneup and even Brand X are really good value for money if you consider them in the future.

Handlebar: here I ask for suggestion, I am looking for a reliable carbon one without breaking the bank: I selected og-evkin, but they don`t say if it is ok for enduro use; another option is ican rise (it says enduro capable) but possibly I would avoid the 35 mm diameter bars

Oneup Components here again but it is 35mm.  I mostly trust the bargain brand carbon for frames but I'm not sold on it for bars.  I just recently moved from alloy bars because of getting absolutely jarred over multiple day rides and I only trust the quality control of bigger brands for something this important. It obviously isn't Ali cheap but it also isn't Syncros expensive.

[darius72]

Oneup Components here again but it is 35mm.  I mostly trust the bargain brand carbon for frames but I'm not sold on it for bars.  I just recently moved from alloy bars because of getting absolutely jarred over multiple day rides and I only trust the quality control of bigger brands for something this important. It obviously isn't Ali cheap but it also isn't Syncros expensive.

Thank you for the idea! Oneup claims that their 35 mm bar has an oval shape making it confortable like an old 31 mm. Probably it worths the investment; a failure in the handlebar could be an hospital trip.
There are three "levels" of handlebars:
- generic chinese aliexpress, the cheapest but no warranty at all
- chinese reputable brands (og-evkin,ican, lightcarbon); middle price and mostly good reviews
- brand names: most expensive, still made in china but probably with a different quality control that makes a world of difference.
Said that if you search over the web you will find photos of failures of any kind of handlebars (even alluminium ones). For sure they suffer fatigue, after many small hits they get weaker; carbon ones maybe even aging from UV etc.

Probably better to go with 30-35 mm rise and limit the stem spacers, this is my idea what do you think?