The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!

[FlaMtnBkr]

Since people are having problems with epoxy in the way of the seatpost I ordered a 30.9 dropper and a 30.9 to 31.6 shim and didn't have any issues. I also got a 180mm and it fits me well on a large with it sticking out about 15mm. I'm waiting on a few parts but it's basically built so I'll have to get some pics. Just picking it up, it's lighter than I thought it would be. Will have to get it on a scale.

Edit: I'll measure some more but I get just a hair less than 17 1/8" which is about 434mm. I only have rulers with mm on it and none that long but will try to find something with smaller increments as converting shouldn't matter.

Edit 2: I also had issues with my caliper bolts going in the frame so got a M6x1 tap to chase the threads and it ran into resistance and removed some material but the bolts thread in nicely now. Maybe they were using a worn tap? The threads also don't go very deep and not sure if bolts might run out of threads? Once myadapters to 203mm get here it should be fine. I probably should start my own build thread with the things I've done and ran into. Hasn't been real bad but also hasn't been perfect and taken a little jury rigging to go together.

[cybrsrce]

Since people are having problems with epoxy in the way of the seatpost I ordered a 30.9 dropper and a 30.9 to 31.6 shim and didn't have any issues. I also got a 180mm and it fits me well on a large with it sticking out about 15mm. I'm waiting on a few parts but it's basically built so I'll have to get some pics. Just picking it up, it's lighter than I thought it would be. Will have to get it on a scale.

I was trying to jam a 27.2 post in with some rough sandpaper to get it but it also gets stuck.  There is a big chunk of material in the seat tube on the nondrive side just a little too deep to maneuver my files in and make a difference.  All good, I ordered an adjustable reamer bit to knock it out and then expand an old bike seat tube from 30.4 to 30.9.

Thanks for the tap tip

[FlaMtnBkr]

I was trying to jam a 27.2 post in with some rough sandpaper to get it but it also gets stuck.  There is a big chunk of material in the seat tube on the nondrive side just a little too deep to maneuver my files in and make a difference.  All good, I ordered an adjustable reamer bit to knock it out and then expand an old bike seat tube from 30.4 to 30.9.

Thanks for the tap tip

If I was dealing with that problem I would probably try a sandpaper flapper wheel like this:



And use an extention something like this:



And if I couldn't find it local and had to order, I would try getting a dowel or socket extension and take a strip of sandpaper with some rubber cement (or the big bottle of tube patch cement in my toolbox) and glue it to the end with a piece of tape on the shaft to mark the correct depth so I work on the right spot. Then chuck it in a cordless drill or a Dremel and give it a shot. I've used this method in the past on similar things with good results. I don't know how deep it is but if holding it on the bump was difficult and I was worried about where I was sanding, I might try taking something like a 2 liter bottle and cut the top and bottom off right before it begins to curve so it's flat, cut a hole in it about the size of the bump to frame it, roll it up and then slide it down to protect the surrounding area and use a couple pieces of tape at the top folded over onto the frame to hold it in place. Even the cardboard from a case of beer would protect it for quite a while (and is on the stronger end of cardboard since people aren't happy when bottles fall out the bottom). That's what I would try if anyone is having a hard time dealing with it...

[JJJ]

Here's my rig, just finished. Weighs 12.2 kg, including pedals and sealant!
210 mm dropper post (no issues with the insertion in the seat tube).
Can't ride it yet because of my broken wrist

[Gigelz]

Here's my rig, just finished. Weighs 12.2 kg, including pedals and sealant!
210 mm dropper post (no issues with the insertion in the seat tube).
Can't ride it yet because of my broken wrist

looking really really good ! which size do you have ? i wish you all the best for your broken wrist

[JJJ]

looking really really good ! which size do you have ?

Chinese size M, which is SC size L, for 1m81.

[Gigelz]

Chinese size M, which is SC size L, for 1m81.

the bike is looking really good proportion wise does the pike fits without the crown race spacer ?

[JJJ]

the bike is looking really good proportion wise does the pike fits without the crown race spacer ?

Yep, 2 mm clear of the downtube.

[Schumo]

Get well soon, JJJ!

12.2 kg sounds pretty light for a bike of that much travel, do you have a parts list?

[JJJ]

12.2 kg sounds pretty light for a bike of that much travel, do you have a parts list?

Essentially:

Fork: RS Pike 150mm
Shock: Fox DPS EVOL (no piggy-back = almost 200 g lighter), enough for me
Cranks: E13 TRS Race Carbon (the XCX Race Mountain are even lighter, but said to be flexy)
Wheelset: homemade from Chinese carbon rims (30mm inner width) and DT 240EXP clones, Sapim D-Light spokes = 1385 g
Cassette: E13 Helix-R
Rear derailleur: XTR
Pedals: composite
Saddle: Chinese carbon (so damn light and cheap, and perform well)

[Snacks]

So I took the bike for a test ride today and something is really up with this paint job or the frame rubbing. I rode it in my neighborhood on paved street for about 500 feet to test shifting and this is what happened. I can't imagine tiny pebbles flying up off the road would cause something like this on any other bike. I mean I ride my gravel and road bike through here almost everyday and their paint is still fine.

[Snacks]

That spot on the left definitely looks like rubbing. I'm assuming the rear triangle is hitting it but the missing paint on the right there has nothing to rub against

[darius72]

Looks like rubbing but I can't understand what can rub there...the foot? The rear shock?

[Confused]

Snacks - please post a picture from further away.

[BSAM]

Gentlemen,

Anyone completed the build with the crown spacer to prevent the front fork from hitting the downtube?  I'm quite confused on what we should use;  +0.5° crown spacer?  My fork hit the downtube (Frame Size S).  The rated head tube angle is 65.5° -  This would make 65° with the crown spacer?  I assumed the headset uses 45 degree bearing race. 

https://reverse-components-usa.com/products/reverse-angle-spacer

Thank you for your input & sharing with us.