Velobuild VB-R-177

[yannic_97]

Phew came out clean! What bar is that?

It is the integrated bar of Airwolf in 36cm.

[zev]

Hello, my VB177 in raw matte carbon arrived yesterday and I am overall quite happy with the quality.  I will be filing the caliper mounts as they dont seem quite flat, and the cable guides/from its seem to be not capable of sitting perfectly flush with the frame, but otherwise it is very impressive for the price.

I have questions for those who have built this up before:  I am building with Shimano 105 mechanical, hydraulic disc.  I know this is going to be a cable wrangling experience… do you recommend starting with cables attached to brifters and routing through from the top to the back, or starting with cables attached to breaks and routing bottom up? Or put the cables in one way or another, and terminate both ends after everything is run?

Second question, as this is my first internal cable build:  how and where do you put the foam cable sheath on? Seems like it must feed on  from the headset side, but not sure where it is most important to be, and also not sure where I DONT want it because the excess thickness would get in the way.

Thanks!

[zev]

Question for anyone else who has put this bike together:

This spacer seems to be putting way to large of a gap in-between the fork and the frame if installed, but I cant imagine it is supposed to be left out.  Emailed VB, no response yet.  Did you all have this same issue?

[hazzer19]

Congrats on the new frame zev! Loved the 177 when I was riding that frame. Regarding cabling, I've always started from the front (cables fitted to brifters) and worked my way back and found that easier. Fitting cables only and then terminating at both ends sounds interesting too. For the sound dampening foam, that usually goes on the section of cable/hose that sits in the downtube area as this is where most of the rattle usually occurs.


The spacer included won't be needed as the fork has the race built into it instead of others that don't.

[zev]

The spacer included won't be needed as the fork has the race built into it instead of others that don't.

Thanks! I was nervous because I haven't seen carbon forks sitting directly on the bearing, but it does appear to have the correct angle.  Wish VB provided some documentation, but I suppose that is what you sacrifice for the price.

[zev]

4. Front derailleur cable port - If you're running mechanical shift cables, routing and setting up the FD will most likely account for half of the entire time you spend on the bike build itself. The 177, 168, and CX-002 all use this style of cable port. Just be patient...

Hey... about that front derailleur port. When you route, do you end the cable housing with a cap inside the frame, on the little included port, or did you have another section of housing from port to derailleur?  Seems like such an odd design choose to make the cable make the 90 deg turn in the housing, then end the housing just for the straight portion. I'm tempted to simply run the housing the whole way and just add a gromit. not sure how it would work out though.

[joegal]

Hey... about that front derailleur port. When you route, do you end the cable housing with a cap inside the frame, on the little included port, or did you have another section of housing from port to derailleur?  Seems like such an odd design choose to make the cable make the 90 deg turn in the housing, then end the housing just for the straight portion. I'm tempted to simply run the housing the whole way and just add a gromit. not sure how it would work out though.

For those mechanical shimano front derailleurs, its always best to have the cable housing routed all the way to the FD. So I would not recommend to use the grommet that VB supplied and rather find another grommet. Or you could drill out the VB grommet so that the cable housing would fit through

But for best FD shifting, always run the outer cable to the FD.

[zev]

Thanks, build went well.

My build:
Shimano 105 mechanical group set, Praxis crank, DT Swiss wheels all stolen off donor Specialized 2019 Allen Sprint Comp Disk with cracked seat stays I purchase on Craigslist for $300. Needed new set of pads ($60) and bar tape ($22) but otherwise everything was in good working order.  Cabled it up with generic amazon brake hose ($16) and Shimano Optislick Shift Cable Set (R7000) ($24). Bottom bracket is the Praxis M30-BB86 ($45) because it needed to be compatible with the crank.

I had not read the advice here, and ran my cables from the back to the front. it was all actually fine, I mean it was a little struggle getting both the brake and the shifter cable through the bars, but it didn't take more than one evening of swearing.  That seems pretty good based of some of the stories I have heard.  Needed to drill out the front derailure cable hole, and ran the housing all the way to the shifter.  From the horror stories I have heard, I was worried about shift performance all round but have been impressed, it feels snappier and easier all round VS the 10speed Ultregra I have on my other bike. woot!

Really enjoyable ride. fit feels good, reach might be slightly long, but will find out on my first long ride.  Im 6'1", got the 56cm Large.

Only issue? creak.  Ive got the bottom bracket creak.  I'll be going through with a torque wrench, grease, and RTV silicone to see if I can chase it down. First ride was perfect (12mi) second ride it now seems to creak with anything above a light pedal stroke.  Just like one click, but quite annoying.  Hope its just e pedal or crank bolt or something... removing the press fit BB in there with Loctite Superflex RTV is not something I look forward to, nor is it something I have any idea how I would improve on re-install.

[bronco]

As my current frame is crumbling under my bum, I'm a bit pressed for time and have a few questions.
Regarding the right size, I would like to know what the minimum number of spacers including the headset cover measures if I use the integrated cockpit from Velobuild. My current bike has a stack of 555, plus a headset cover of approx. 1.5 cm.
A custom paint job will probably delay delivery. Can you say approximately how much?
How long does delivery to Europe usually take?
Thank you.

[barmo]

Hi guys! 
I read the whole conversation about this nice frame.
I'm getting convinced to buy it.
The question is: is the 177 a frame from a few years ago.
In the meantime have some alternatives come out in this weight-price range that I should consider?
Thank you for all your opinion

[catenaccio]

Hi all, frame received and now putting all together.

Build setup: VB 177 frame, separated stem and handlebars, mechanical ultegra group

After a whole evening trying to route cables through stem I´m done.... it is practically imposible. Ordered a Ritchey logic headset to route cables outside the stem

IMHO, I think that stem provided by VB is thought only for inalambric groupsets, 2 cables is doable, but 4.....

Frame looks good, I only had to sand front inner hole of brake hose in the fork (impossible for the cable to go through)

[jcr]

I know this is an older frame but at $399.99 plus $50 coupon (if you add paint), kind of tempting to order it. Is it still a good frame or people recommend something newer (not always easy to find a 58cm frame)?

[jcr]

What is the actual clearance of the frame? I thought it was 32c?

[theo__]

What is the actual clearance of the frame? I thought it was 32c?

Why don't go for the Spcycle R088, no so much expensive when offer in AliExpress and just more light and modern.

[North Shore]

What is the actual clearance of the frame? I thought it was 32c?

I have Schwalbe clincher 28’s on 21mm internal rims that have stretched out to 31.88 and they fit fine, though minimal clearance to fork crown. I think purchasing 32’s hoping they will fit is what the problem is because the resulting width will be wider than 32.