How I painted my frame

[jannmayer]

I'm also not very familiar with this topic and I asked "ETEO" the question on Youtube, maybe he'll give me an answer.

Whereby a raw frame certainly still requires a lot of work?

Yes, there will still be a lot of work. The most time consuming part was the final sanding and polishing of the clearcoat. However, if you skimp on this, it will be obvious. I had a few runs and other issues with the clearcoat that took extra work to smooth out, so definitely take your time when spraying it!

[planet_sammy]

Yes, there will still be a lot of work. The most time consuming part was the final sanding and polishing of the clearcoat. However, if you skimp on this, it will be obvious. I had a few runs and other issues with the clearcoat that took extra work to smooth out, so definitely take your time when spraying it!

How much 2K Primer and clear coat cans did you use for your frame and fork, is one cane not enough?

[jannmayer]

I used two cans of primer and two of clearcoat. One can will easily cover the full frame. However, I did two coats of each and needed time for drying and then sanding. The working life of the cans once mixed is to short for that, so you'll need one can per coat.

[Queen of Skulls]

Oh my goddess. That is pretty. I  want a similar color scheme when I do my frame. But I want some purple with color shift and some cyan or mint instead of the red/orange.

[jannmayer]

I only kept partial records of my painting costs, but I estimate it was about $170 USD. I don't know what Carbonda would have charged for a scheme like this buit it probably would have been similar or slightly more.


The paint was the most expensive part:
Primer (2 cans): $21.50
Paint (6 cans): $55.08
Clear (2 cans): $41.99


I didn't keep a log of the tape or sandpaper since I already had much of that. I probably used $15 to $20 worth of tape (basic blue painter's tape and Tamiya masking tape), and maybe the same amount of sandpaper? The polishing compound was maybe $17, and I had the bottle of car wax lying around.


I'm not sure if I would do it again. If so, I would probably simplify the scheme a bit and pick the paint cans out in person to get a better match!

[Draz]

I only kept partial records of my painting costs, but I estimate it was about $170 USD. I don't know what Carbonda would have charged for a scheme like this buit it probably would have been similar or slightly more.


The paint was the most expensive part:
Primer (2 cans): $21.50
Paint (6 cans): $55.08
Clear (2 cans): $41.99


I didn't keep a log of the tape or sandpaper since I already had much of that. I probably used $15 to $20 worth of tape (basic blue painter's tape and Tamiya masking tape), and maybe the same amount of sandpaper? The polishing compound was maybe $17, and I had the bottle of car wax lying around.


I'm not sure if I would do it again. If so, I would probably simplify the scheme a bit and pick the paint cans out in person to get a better match!

Thats too much IMHO. However that really depends on which part of the planet you live in.
I made a deal with a car body body shop.
Paint cost me under 10$
Primer, CC, labor was like 30$.

I did the sanding but nasty stuff is handled by the shop.
40$ in total.

[Draz]

Looks very nice, obviously quite different than Jannmayer's paint job.
Whereabouts in the world are you and how did you go about it? You sanded, brought a masked frame to them, they did the primer, they painted, they applied the clear coat, and you got your finished frame back?
I quite like the idea of liaising with a car body shop, there's a million of those around me.

Yes, obviously my paintjob is just a getaway. Jannmayer made a masterpiece and really spend time on it, unfortunately i'm a lazy mf.
I did exactly as you described.
I deal with them for 3 stage painting. Acrylic paint, cc, primer are selected.
I used some sort of abrasive sponge and masked it and primed in 1st day.
Second day, i sanded and masked again if needed. Eyeballed a custom paint. (british green race with big metallic flakes and pearlescent paint to blend everything nicely)
Layer of paints are applied 10-20mins apart. Then before it gets dry, CC layers are applied same way.
I waited until everything chemically dries(2-3 weeks).
Then applied automative grade clear protection film myself.
If you supply parts to hang the frame while drying, it is better.

Add one day for each different paint and 2 more day to sand the cc to level it and for the last layer of cc.
I live in Turkey btw.

[jannmayer]

Three and a half years later, the paint hasn't held up all that well. There are a number of chips, and I gave up on touching them up after a while. It appears that the issue is with the Montana Cans colors not sticking tot he primer, as the primer is solid everywhere. I may have sanded the primer too finely so the top layer didn't have much bite.

[Daviddavieboy]

Three and a half years later, the paint hasn't held up all that well. There are a number of chips, and I gave up on touching them up after a while. It appears that the issue is with the Montana Cans colors not sticking tot he primer, as the primer is solid everywhere. I may have sanded the primer too finely so the top layer didn't have much bite.

 Montana paints are not great as they are very high in solids, IMO would need to be decanted and thinned to spray properly. No finer than 600 sanding then washing with a paint prep/tack cloth and then 3-4 VERY thin coats to cover with about 5-10 flash time. More than that time and the paint must fully dry and be fine sanded again. Once completely cured apply a clear coat, cure again and apply decals. another coat of clear, sand flat and a top coat of clear. TBH only the top coat needs to be 2k if using it and the under coats can be 1k as it is a much safer product.

 I would stress that if it is a real 2k product a normal respirator is not good enough as they are VERY hazardous to a persons health. Use a 1k and ride wrap to protect the frame or if you want 2k get a shop to spray or get a fresh air breathing apparatus.