LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets

[Alastair_S1D]

Maybe the secret sauce is in the Shimano chainrings. Because I am still using my R8000 crank after my conversion to eRX (v3) from R8000 mechanical and I find the front shifting to be at least as good or better. That being said I'm VERY particular about tuning my front mech and my R8000 was tuned very well.

[Sebastian]

I still prefer my Shimano mechanical front derailleur though. I feel like it's the biggest weakness of the LTwoo system. Maybe the newer V3 eR9/X is better, but my Shimano FD was always spot on. No need for a chain catcher. A pefectly tuned Shimano FD, just works!

I too found the Ltwoo front shifting pretty agricultural. I made it work but it was nowhere near my Record front mech. That is a full group though so the front mech is paired with the crankset and chainrings from the same groupset. I ran the Ltwoo with a Sram crank with Zrace chainrings. Wasn’t impressed. I switched to Shimano chainrings which actually made things worse because the chainline sits even further outboard with those. Now with Sram Rival AXS it’s better but not by much. I wouldn’t trust this setup to shift well under load in a race situation. If you back off slightly and go easy on it, it’s kind of reliable. But I’ve had much better.

[Rebel_Yell]

I think being able to tune a mechanical groupset should be a requisite before going electronic! 

I still prefer my Shimano mechanical front derailleur though. I feel like it's the biggest weakness of the LTwoo system. Maybe the newer V3 eR9/X is better, but my Shimano FD was always spot on. No need for a chain catcher. A pefectly tuned Shimano FD, just works!

I forgot to add, I have no clue why Ltwoo uses a narrow wide jockey wheel on the lower cage. Using a regular jockey wheel on the upper cage causes the chain to jump off the wheel if dumping gears. After swapping to Ultegra jockey wheels in the proper orientation, I was able to get better shifting and I was also able to get the cage closer to the cassette allowing for smoother shifting with my 11-34t cassette.

Can you explain what you with the jockey wheels?  If previously did I must have missed it. Looking for best operations. 

[Rapac]

I too found the Ltwoo front shifting pretty agricultural. I made it work but it was nowhere near my Record front mech. That is a full group though so the front mech is paired with the crankset and chainrings from the same groupset. I ran the Ltwoo with a Sram crank with Zrace chainrings. Wasn’t impressed. I switched to Shimano chainrings which actually made things worse because the chainline sits even further outboard with those. Now with Sram Rival AXS it’s better but not by much. I wouldn’t trust this setup to shift well under load in a race situation. If you back off slightly and go easy on it, it’s kind of reliable. But I’ve had much better.

I use your Ltwoo groupset with a Sram gxp crank and 52-34 chainring combination and a dura ace 11-30 cassette . Pretty good ! The front is as good as di2 11 speed but less Than 12 speed. The trim adjust is a bad point tho, but I'm happy with it ! Thanks again

[jonathanf2]

Can you explain what you with the jockey wheels?  If previously did I must have missed it. Looking for best operations.

LTwoo in-spec has a 32t max cassette size. Running an 11-34t cassette on bumpy terrain while in the smallest cog would result in occasional chain drops. Sometimes when trying to build up speed on the downhill, I find myself in the highest gear setting (small cog). Ltwoo provides an 11t upper and 12t narrow/wide lower jockey wheel. I swapped out the Ltwoo stock wheels for Ultegra 11t upper and 11t lower jockey wheels. By doing so I was able to slightly move the upper jockey wheel closer to the small cog, which gave more stability on bumpy roads. Also the Ultegra upper jockey wheel has taller teeth. I noticed it keeps the chain aligned better when doing multiple shifts at once. On the stock Ltwoo upper wheel there's a chance the chain can jump off the upper jockey wheel if doing multiple shifts at once. I don't really see a point using a lower narrow/wide 12t jockey wheel.

[jonathanf2]

Maybe the secret sauce is in the Shimano chainrings. Because I am still using my R8000 crank after my conversion to eRX (v3) from R8000 mechanical and I find the front shifting to be at least as good or better. That being said I'm VERY particular about tuning my front mech and my R8000 was tuned very well.

I was initially using Senicx 3 bolt 2x chainrings, which require no adjustment compared to a Shimano chainring/crankset. When I installed my Magene PM, I had to get 4 bolt asymmetric chainrings. I tried aftermarket chainrings and they sucked. I swapped to Shimano chainrings and shifting is much better with LTwoo.

[Rebel_Yell]

LTwoo in-spec has a 32t max cassette size. Running an 11-34t cassette on bumpy terrain while in the smallest cog would result in occasional chain drops. Sometimes when trying to build up speed on the downhill, I find myself in the highest gear setting (small cog). Ltwoo provides an 11t upper and 12t narrow/wide lower jockey wheel. I swapped out the Ltwoo stock wheels for Ultegra 11t upper and 11t lower jockey wheels. By doing so I was able to slightly move the upper jockey wheel closer to the small cog, which gave more stability on bumpy roads. Also the Ultegra upper jockey wheel has taller teeth. I noticed it keeps the chain aligned better when doing multiple shifts at once. On the stock Ltwoo upper wheel there's a chance the chain can jump off the upper jockey wheel if doing multiple shifts at once. I don't really see a point using a lower narrow/wide 12t jockey wheel.

Thanks for the explanation!!

[boxof13]

So, I took the new v3 eRX for a spin the other day. I certainly appreciate the improved ergonomic of the new shifters. The button click feels better somehow—it's like you need that extra push to make sure it actually shifts, which means no more second-guessing if you pressed it right. As for the shifting speed, I can’t really say it's any faster because my old eR9s were already pretty quick.

One thing I that find odd is the choice of not allowing power delivery using USB-C to USB-C cable. You can only charge the FD using USB-A to USB-C cable. I assume this is to avoid charging higher voltage!? I tried bunch of cables and pretty much confirmed this. Not a deal breaker, but it would be a bummer to look for the right cable to charge the set.

[jonathanf2]

Just to confirm, there isn’t charging from the RD anymore? I somewhat like magnetic charging because sometimes I forget that I’m charging my bike and I yank the cord. The magnetic cable just comes off. I guess having easy-to-access USB charging and better weather sealing takes priority.

[boxof13]

Correct! There is no longer magnetic port the RD. I am sure if you still have spare RD with magnetic port, and if you want, you can combine all the sets since the battery holder is identical. In fact, I am using the old battery holder from my eR9 so that I don't have to do all the cable routing again. This made the setup a breeze. I am not sure how the system would negotiate the charging if you try to charge from both ports at the same time though.

[amacal1]

Just to confirm, there isn’t charging from the RD anymore? I somewhat like magnetic charging because sometimes I forget that I’m charging my bike and I yank the cord. The magnetic cable just comes off. I guess having easy-to-access USB charging and better weather sealing takes priority.

I just finished watching the Trace Velo video on the new system and I, too, am disappointed to see the magnetic charging option completely removed. I understand, and welcome, the addition of the USB-C charging. But, the magnetic, break-away charging port - even if imperfect - was what I preferred.

I have kids around, and my biggest fear has always been that one of them bump or try to move my bike while I'm not around and not realize it was charging.

[jonathanf2]

I just finished watching the Trace Velo video on the new system and I, too, am disappointed to see the magnetic charging option completely removed. I understand, and welcome, the addition of the USB-C charging. But, the magnetic, break-away charging port - even if imperfect - was what I preferred.

I have kids around, and my biggest fear has always been that one of them bump or try to move my bike while I'm not around and not realize it was charging.

I wonder if LTwoo will keep the eGR magnetic or also switch it to USB-C in the next iteration? For the most part, as long as I keep my magnetic ports and cable connector clean, I haven't had issues with charging. Also my eGR has gone through heavy rains and desert dust and it still works fine. Luckily I have 3 magnetic cables (from my 2 eR9 & 1 eGR groupsets), but only use one of them. I'm safe keeping the other 2 cables as backup! 

[Alastair_S1D]

So, I took the new v3 eRX for a spin the other day. I certainly appreciate the improved ergonomic of the new shifters. The button click feels better somehow—it's like you need that extra push to make sure it actually shifts, which means no more second-guessing if you pressed it right. As for the shifting speed, I can’t really say it's any faster because my old eR9s were already pretty quick.

One thing I that find odd is the choice of not allowing power delivery using USB-C to USB-C cable. You can only charge the FD using USB-A to USB-C cable. I assume this is to avoid charging higher voltage!? I tried bunch of cables and pretty much confirmed this. Not a deal breaker, but it would be a bummer to look for the right cable to charge the set.

do you find your v3 levers rattle a bit over bumpy terrain? I'm finding mine a bit rattly and I am looking for hacks or solutions if anyone has.

[boxof13]

do you find your v3 levers rattle a bit over bumpy terrain? I'm finding mine a bit rattly and I am looking for hacks or solutions if anyone has.

They weren't really rattling enough to bug me, probably because I was on a pretty smooth bike path. I'll keep an ear out though. I'll definitely notice if they start making any noise, I'm super sensitive to any sound coming out of my bike.

[mozart]

do you find your v3 levers rattle a bit over bumpy terrain? I'm finding mine a bit rattly and I am looking for hacks or solutions if anyone has.

I hope this doesn't happen. I got the wheeltops and I have the same problem and that's why I want to change them. The ltwoo 1s don't have this issue.