Author Topic: New Airwolf YFR056- Winow GF23 - CW GT30 - SPCycle G058 gravel frame 700x50, T47  (Read 9758 times)

MattL

« Last Edit: June 26, 2023, 07:57:14 AM by MattL »



wandulus

Nice option. Geometry seems on the performance side, besides quite tall stack.
Any experience with SP Cycle? Price seems fair with painted option.

jonathanf2

Any experience with SP Cycle? Price seems fair with painted option.

If the frame is in stock, they seem quite fast. My last order from them took exactly 14 days. 9 days to prep for paint and clear coat and 5 days to ship to the US. I would order from them again.

Moof123

I picked one of these up from Winspace.  So far it has been mostly brilliant.  I ride a 54-56cm road bike, and the 54cm medium frame fits me like a 56cm road bike does, and I think the large would have been too big for me.

I built it up with the Ltwoo 1x12 gravel groupset, and a Shimano M7100 cassette.  Ltwoo takes a little getting used to, and it is pretty picky about indexing (small adjustment window for quiet running).  Braking us great, and I like the hood shape.  Getting wheels with microspline in a 142mm hub is not that easy, so I laced up some using some DTswiss G540 rims with a 105 front hub and an on-sale XTR rear hub.  I put a Trans-X squishy seatpost and Redshift squishy stem, and I’m a big fan of those.

The good:
1.  Threaded BB is plus, though I am not a fan of tightening using such a shallow lip to grab onto, but I’ll take that over press-fit anything.
2.  Cable routing was pretty easy with the semi-internal setup.  I have other carbon frames that had choke points inside the chainstays, and this one went pretty smoothly.
3.  No issues with the fitment, it all just went together.
4.  Seatpost clamp has been trouble free.  I do wish it had a rubber seal over top.

The bad:
1.  The half ring on the top of the headset is a stupid design.  Mine kept loosening up the headset, and I didn’t like the prospect of damaging the steerer in an impact with such poor support the stock one provided.  I bought a Specialized SL7 expander plug and compression ring kit for about $20, and haven’t had an issue since.
2.  Some of the paint masking left the white primer showing on the edges, which bugged me a little, but is far less noticeable once built up.
3.  The accessory bolts are showing some surface rust despite minimal adverse condition riding.  I will be replace them soon.
4.  I wish the head angle was just a little slacker.  That said, with road tires I have no toe overlap which is nice as a change.  With 2” tires there is some, but tolerable, so I can’t complain too much.

Leejordan86

Hi Moof123, can you please post some photos? I'm also considering this frame in a medium. What is your height?

I have contacted SP for some photos of a built up bike

leon.y

This frame is also sold by Tantan as the GR048 with integrated cables. I've recently built it up; here's what I wrote in another thread:
The quality of the frame seems to be good, and the headset area is uniform, comparable to what I've seen from Lightcarbon. The bearings fit securely without being difficult to press in. The frame also looked good on the inside, very smooth with no crinkles visible. Assembly went smoothly, but routing a mechanical groupset through the handlebars would've been a nightmare; even with Di2 it was tight in some spots. Pulling the shifting cable through the chainstay also took some effort.

The full build with bottle cages, computer mount and pedals is 9.1kg. With a lighter saddle and removing the many heavy accessory bolts in the frame, it should go down to around 8.9kg

I've only went on one ride, but first impressions are good. Due to the longer wheelbase, slack steering angle and low BB, it feels very planted and stable on gravel, especially on descends. On the road it almost feels too stable though, coming from a more CX based frame (GR029). Definitely less agile and slower turning. The frame itself feels stiff and efficient, and the handlebars feel much stiffer than my previous Deda Superzero stem/carbon handlebar combo. Will update once I've ridden more.

Leejordan86

Great stuff, thanks for the pictures. And which one of the sellers did you buy yours from?

leon.y

Great stuff, thanks for the pictures. And which one of the sellers did you buy yours from?

Directly from Tantan, they also painted the frame. I'm positively surprised by the paint job, looks very good considering it cost $90.

Nickvvliet

More reviews about building up and riding this frameset?

FullCarbonAlchemist

I’d love to know how this frame rides with a 40-50mm suspension fork (mainly the Fox 32 TC but also Rockshox Rudy, SR Suntour etc). There aren’t any unbranded frames out there that are specifically intended for this AFAIK, but I’d like the extra capability and high front end.

Leejordan86

Hi all,

I have a derailleur hanger question.

I was hoping for some help, I'm still pondering on this frame but SP Cycle aren't able to clarify my question.

I have a Merida Scultura Endurance which I converted from Shimano to Sram AXS. In doing this I found that Merida makes a derailleur hanger specifically for Sram axs that is offset inboard slighty, maybe 5mm.

My question is will this frame be compatible with both Shimano and Sram AXS derailleurs or just shimano derailleurs?

Thanks, Jordan.

gf

For those who have this frame, in a 1x configuration, a 36t or 38t chainring is ok or too small?
Thanks

Leejordan86

I could be wrong but I think your question is more of a gearing question and depends on the kind of riding that you do... small teeth number up front, slow speeds. Big teeth up front, high speeds

gf

I could be wrong but I think your question is more of a gearing question and depends on the kind of riding that you do... small teeth number up front, slow speeds. Big teeth up front, high speeds
what I mean is if with a small chainring, the chain could touch the frame when is on some cogs?

Serge_K

what I mean is if with a small chainring, the chain could touch the frame when is on some cogs?

You should ask the seller. Alternatively, if need be, you can probably use a shim. I 3d printed a thin shim on the drive side on my gf002 to run a 50/34. The 34T was just eating the chainstay. Different chainsets have different Q factors too, so a Shimano crank may not have had this problem: it's a confusing area but shims are part of the trade.
Fast on the flat. And nowhere else.