Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[Stephiso]

^Nice,
I'm sort of new to building bikes...

Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?


On my end, i did the same as TinyDinosaur and it seems to have worked for 1 ride. Will continue on a few other rides and report back.


Thanks

[Serge_K]

Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?

I've been seen to 3d print moon shaped spacers so that i could compress the steerer column, avoiding the plastic thing that sits just on top of the frame, from rubbing on it. If it rubs, some of that compression torque is going into the frame, which will probably result in headset play. Generally, nothing on a bike should rub.
It probably sounds theoretical, but once you've built a few bikes and faced these problems, it makes sense.
As w most things, you learn by doing.

[TidyDinosaur]

Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.

I have received the new headset spacer assembly with the plastic ring. The difference is not 3 mm but about 1mm when I just put them together on my desk. So when you install it and with some compression it will probably be less (since I expect the plastic ring to compress more). I would think that this is better than the steel ring because the cap that covers the top bearing rubs the frame with this one.
I am not planning to install this ring as long as my current solution stays tight...

[KalviDj]

^Nice,
I'm sort of new to building bikes...

Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?


On my end, i did the same as TinyDinosaur and it seems to have worked for 1 ride. Will continue on a few other rides and report back.


Thanks

Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.
 

[TidyDinosaur]

Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.

What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?

[KalviDj]

What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?

Up to down:
Steerer tube/stem cap
Stem
Spacers
Cover
Spacer
C-ring
Bearing

[TidyDinosaur]

Ah, that is different from the standard spacer-set supplied with the frame

[Stephiso]

Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.

Thanks for the explanation. With integrated headset, is there a way to install this spacer without having to undo all my hydraulic cables?

[Ronronson]

I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.

Any ideas?

[KalviDj]

Thanks for the explanation. With integrated headset, is there a way to install this spacer without having to undo all my hydraulic cables?

I installed without undoing my Force AXS hydraulic cables

[TidyDinosaur]

I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.

Any ideas?

I might be wrong, but I think the lip is there to prevent the seatpost from being inserted too far. There is a maximum insertion and you have to cut your seatpost if it is too long. Forcing the seatpost past this ridge probably has gotten it jammed.

Maybe you can install an old saddle and tap it from the bottom?

[serenadebikes]

Inject a little grease. You can do it like this

[Ronronson]

So, turns out that lip is the limit line for the seatpost.. if you want the seatpost to go in further then you need to cut. I got it out, or i should say my LBS did.

[Stephiso]

Well the tiny bit of play is back after a ~100km this time (a few rides)


Not sure how i can add a 0.5mm C shaped spacer to the headset. Can't it just slip out or the compression will hold it in place?



I think i will go ahead and order the Specialized design mentioned by @fabxyz on ali

[Ronronson]

I've put some miles on my Hygge Model S, and here are my general thoughts:
Pros
Paint Job: The paint job is superb. While I think purple on blue would look better, it's hard to fault it at this price point. However, the paint scratches easily, so be careful during the build process.
Delivery and Packaging: It arrived in about two weeks from China in a small box but was packaged well.
Value for Money: The bike offers incredible value for money. With the seatpost, bars, frame, and accessories all for around £550 delivered, it's hard to fault.
Ride Feel: The ride feel is subjective, but it feels planted and solid. I'm using Elite Edge 65mm wheels. While it’s not the quickest to get up to speed, it cruises better than my old SuperSix Evo. It’s a budget build, so there’s no power meter, but it seems quicker, possibly due to my extra effort to prove the aero benefits.
Attention-Grabbing: It turns heads and I’ve been able to outpace riders on bikes that cost five times as much.
General Comments
Handlebar: The handlebar is plenty stiff. Someone in the comments mentioned theirs was flexy, but I haven't experienced that.
Headset and Seatpost: I didn’t have any issues with the headset or seatpost slipping.
Cons
Cable Routing: The cable routing wasn’t easy. The handlebar has many sharp edges and limited space, making it a real challenge to get right.
Fork and Rear Triangle: The fork and rear triangle need to be stiffer. I don’t know if Hygge did this to help with compliance, but it’s not very confidence-inspiring. Adding some more carbon in these areas, even for the sake of 100g, would be beneficial.
Lack of EPS Molding: The down tube and top tube are pretty creased, although the headtube isn’t too bad. EPS molding would be a nice touch.
The total cost for the build was around £1250. The Elite wheels took 65 days to arrive, but I took advantage of Choice Day and got them for £365 delivered. The R9 shifters, which were £35, work well with Ultegra 8100. The only downside is the thumb shifters, which make it impossible to shift on the drops.