Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[lkbfreak]

Working on a 3d printed seatpost mount for my Garmin Varia

Great! Do you mind sharing a files for the model? Thx!

Btw do you know what kind of seatpost Hygge uses in terms of similarity to other brands?

Cheers

[lkbfreak]

I have been searching in the past because I would like a 0 setback post, but could not find any...

Just got an answer which I don't like...

[RoadieMKD]

Just got an answer which I don't like...

The seatpost is totally proprietary and you won't be able to find a replacement. As for the holder for the radar light, if you have a friend that is good with 3D design, or you personally are handy with this, the holder can be designed and printed easily. Alternatively, search AliX for saddle radar light holder and there are tons of options that will allow you to mount the radar on the saddle rails, which to me looks much better than a strap on to the seatpost.

This is just an example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002687365308.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5aaf0no10no1oF&algo_pvid=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0&algo_exp_id=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%214.77%213.38%21%21%214.88%213.46%21%40212e532617322794092774151e8e39%2112000035214453707%21sea%21MK%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=s8VnYQe1dJtM&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A



It will allow you to mount the radar anywhere on the saddle rails as it has fully adjustable tilt angle.

[lkbfreak]

The seatpost is totally proprietary and you won't be able to find a replacement. As for the holder for the radar light, if you have a friend that is good with 3D design, or you personally are handy with this, the holder can be designed and printed easily. Alternatively, search AliX for saddle radar light holder and there are tons of options that will allow you to mount the radar on the saddle rails, which to me looks much better than a strap on to the seatpost.

This is just an example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002687365308.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5aaf0no10no1oF&algo_pvid=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0&algo_exp_id=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%214.77%213.38%21%21%214.88%213.46%21%40212e532617322794092774151e8e39%2112000035214453707%21sea%21MK%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=s8VnYQe1dJtM&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Thanks my friend for the reply!

I have saddle rails holders for varia light but since I'm using a saddle bag it's not convenient so I was searching for somethong like KOM cycling copy or something. But that's a minor problem

BTW - bike rides like a dream and does everything you throw at it! Just like you said. I crushed all my PR's with same effort on this bike. Cheers!


It will allow you to mount the radar anywhere on the saddle rails as it has fully adjustable tilt angle.

[arvh]

I am thinking of doing a build with the Hygge Model S EPS molded frame. I have been reading a little bit here and there in this thread, but since its 45 pages I have not read it all. Is there some usual problems or quirks that you all have discovered when building it up and how did you deal with it? For example I remember reading about the seatpost slipping, play in the headset or just trouble getting the spacers seated properly. I also wonder if I just can use bubble wrap or something similar to put the Di2 battery in the seatpost? And lastly, do you think it would be wise to ask for an extra seatpost and clamp since they are proprietary?

[TidyDinosaur]

I am thinking of doing a build with the Hygge Model S EPS molded frame. I have been reading a little bit here and there in this thread, but since its 45 pages I have not read it all. Is there some usual problems or quirks that you all have discovered when building it up and how did you deal with it? For example I remember reading about the seatpost slipping, play in the headset or just trouble getting the spacers seated properly. I also wonder if I just can use bubble wrap or something similar to put the Di2 battery in the seatpost? And lastly, do you think it would be wise to ask for an extra seatpost and clamp since they are proprietary?

Seatpost slipping is solved with the new clamp design and the headset troubles are also being taken care of with the new c-ring. I had the plastic spacers and those fit great. New spacers might be metal and those might have a little trouble fitting right. You can buy the spacers assembly on Ali for a couple bucks, so it might be a good idea to get a plastic set and use the plastic upper spacer (directly under the handlebar)

[arvh]

Thank you for the answer! I guess I will contact them and ask about pricing then, its seems to be cheaper to buy it from their official website instead of AliX.

[velostar]

So my LBS built a bike with my Hygge frame that I'd received earlier this month. They said it went very smoothly. However, now that I've gotten it home, I noticed what seems like a lot of space between the final headset spacer and the frame. Talked to Hygge about it and they they think "it is not flat when screw the bolt", though I'm not sure what that means. Anyone have some thoughts on why this extra space?

[lkbfreak]

So my LBS built a bike with my Hygge frame that I'd received earlier this month. They said it went very smoothly. However, now that I've gotten it home, I noticed what seems like a lot of space between the final headset spacer and the frame. Talked to Hygge about it and they they think "it is not flat when screw the bolt", though I'm not sure what that means. Anyone have some thoughts on why this extra space?

Yep, that's too much space between headset cover and the frame. It should be a 1 mm gap between them , just enough so the cap is not rubbing the frame. This looks like your compression ring is maybe upside down or something but isn't certainly right! Get back to your LBS and explain that it should be as described - they should know better!

Take a look at the post #635 - this is how it should be done right. A member un the post #653 also has similar problem like yours so I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the c-ring or the whole headset... Spacers have pins that fit into the lower spacer so they stack up and line nicely - headset cover too has a two pins that should align with the compression ring and maybe they are not fitted correctly into holes thus making the cover sits high and tilted. I would disassemble it and try to assemble it again.



You see how the c-ring has a hole just slightly to the right of the blue marker? - it should align with the pin underneath the headset cover.

FOR NOW I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL FIXED!!!

Cheers

[TidyDinosaur]

Yep, that's too much space between headset cover and the frame. It should be a 1 mm gap between them , just enough so the cap is not rubbing the frame. This looks like your compression ring is maybe upside down or something but isn't certainly right! Get back to your LBS and explain that it should be as described - they should know better!

Take a look at the post #635 - this is how it should be done right. A member un the post #653 also has similar problem like yours so I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the c-ring or the whole headset... Spacers have pins that fit into the lower spacer so they stack up and line nicely - headset cover too has a two pins that should align with the compression ring and maybe they are not fitted correctly into holes thus making the cover sits high and tilted. I would disassemble it and try to assemble it again.

FOR NOW I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL FIXED!!!

Cheers

Yeah, it's the tilt that's more worrying than the gap...

[velostar]

You see how the c-ring has a hole just slightly to the right of the blue marker? - it should align with the pin underneath the headset cover.

Cheers

So thank you for this diagram and feedback. I removed the handlebars and spacers so I could see exactly how the bearings, c-ring (i.e., split ring in the diagram), and headset cover (i.e., group cover in the diagram) were fitting. I also compared with Henry Chung's frame build videos to ensure everything had been placed correctly. I also ensured that the headset cover's pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.

After spending some time on this, I've concluded that there's something wrong with the interface between the headset cover and the c-ring. The headset cover simply won't descend enough to completely cover the c-ring and remove the gap. Here's an image of how the c-ring is fitting into the top bearing. This seems all correct:



Now when I place the headset cover over the c-ring, this is as far as it goes:



Again, I ensured that the headset pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.

I compared my c-ring with Henry's c-ring in the video of the new EPS frame he did a couple months back. The look to be the same, but perhaps different color?

Am I missing anything here?

[TidyDinosaur]

Assemble everything and tighten everything. The gap will get smaller

[lkbfreak]

So thank you for this diagram and feedback. I removed the handlebars and spacers so I could see exactly how the bearings, c-ring (i.e., split ring in the diagram), and headset cover (i.e., group cover in the diagram) were fitting. I also compared with Henry Chung's frame build videos to ensure everything had been placed correctly. I also ensured that the headset cover's pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.

After spending some time on this, I've concluded that there's something wrong with the interface between the headset cover and the c-ring. The headset cover simply won't descend enough to completely cover the c-ring and remove the gap. Here's an image of how the c-ring is fitting into the top bearing. This seems all correct:



Now when I place the headset cover over the c-ring, this is as far as it goes:



Again, I ensured that the headset pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.

I compared my c-ring with Henry's c-ring in the video of the new EPS frame he did a couple months back. The look to be the same, but perhaps different color?

Am I missing anything here?

Good. Now put all the spacers on and then the handlebar and compress it as much as possible and tighten first the cover bolt so it compresses everything down (I used 4 Nm). When everything is compressed then torque side bolts of the stem to 5 Nm. That should do. Or maybe the c ring is too thick because mine came in silver, not a black one.

Did you put the bearing ring at the bottom of the fork steerer first cause it makes 2 mm difference.

At least the headset cover is not tilted so it's a good sign. You're on a right way to solve it.
Hope i helped. Good luck!

[velostar]

Good. Now put all the spacers on and then the handlebar and compress it as much as possible and tighten first the cover bolt so it compresses everything down (I used 4 Nm). When everything is compressed then torque side bolts of the stem to 5 Nm. That should do. Or maybe the c ring is too thick because mine came in silver, not a black one.

Did you put the bearing ring at the bottom of the fork steerer first cause it makes 2 mm difference.

At least the headset cover is not tilted so it's a good sign. You're on a right way to solve it.
Hope i helped. Good luck!

It's hard to imagine the headset cover going any lower. Seriously, I've tried to get it lower! Plus, Henry's videos show the headset cover nearly flush with the frame before the handlebar cover is placed and tightened down to compress the assembly. Possibly it could happen but here I run into a possible LBS mistake. It seems they cut the steerer tube so that it is exactly flush with the top of the handlebars, whilst most everything I've seen shows the top of the steerer tube about 3mm below. This is with the maximum number of spacers so I can't add any in order to raise the bars. Did they mess up?



Confirmed the bearer ring is at the bottom of the fork steerer.

Hygge showed me a short video of the c-ring/headset cover interface that shows the c-ring in black like mine. However, their headset cover appears to be slightly different. I've reached out again today and will probably get an answer tonight.

Thanks for your help!

[TidyDinosaur]

They did not cut enough no. You can use a standard round spacer on top of the handlebar with a round top cap to test it though (if you have them lying around)