Yishun R086-D Aero Road

[chughes]

Dark17, perhaps not your issue, but I learnt late when setting a bike, about a year ago,  up for the first time, that its the stem bolts that you last tighten. Made the mistake of tightening the top cap last. Look at: "https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZK5u5ioZU8M?si=mOg8I-zEDbrqhMMK"
For bottom bracket I am using BB86-92 - DUB interlock Press Fit Bottom Brackets from a company called Gineyea. Do not wish to be pressing in bottom bracket, hence i  like their solution where you screw it in. My crankset is dub based, with a spider based power meter,  and though I have heard of potential issues with low BB bearing life (converting from bb86 to dub), figure its worth a try for 25 usd. Pat. Leno from what I recall prefers the more expensive BBinfinite solution. One thing for sure, with the  Gineyea BB, atleast at this point, the cranks spin like ads I have seen from BBinfimite 

[Dark17]

Yeah I also learned that since I built my own bike. I know some basic maintenance since I just wanted to maintain my bike myself as some of the LBS mechanics doesn't know what they do lol. But it was the first time I am dealing with compression plugs as I always dealt with star nut.

For the bottom bracket, I also wanted to try the dub version but even Hambini doesn't recommend 29mm bb86 so i'll just stick with 24mm spindle cranks for longetivity of the BB bearings.

[patliean1]

Some points to consider...

-My Winspace T1500 (BB86) is currently using a Kogel Bearings DUB ceramic bottom bracket. Over 4300 miles and still problem free. Still spins freely with no creaking.
-My VeloBuild CX frame (BB86) also with a SRAM DUB bottom bracket. Problem free. Although the cheap SRAM branded DUB BBs are known to be crappy.
-My Yishun R086-D frame (BB86) with a CYBREI DUB ceramic bottom bracket from Panda Podium. 1000 miles and no issues. I don't expect problems to arise.

In principle what Hambini says is correct. However in my real world usage I have never had a problem running DUB BBs with BB86 shells. And the best spider-based power meters come from SRAM/Quarg which use the DUB standard. So I refuse to compromise my power meters or be limited to Shimano cranks based the potential for BB failure. That just hasn't happened to me. Keep in mind Hambini and I are buddies in the same YouTube space. Quality BBs should run just fine for thousands of miles.


Now about the headset play issue. In addition to using a micro shim, I also filed/sanded down the bottom of the plastic headset cover. The part that's rubbing on the headtube. Only took about 10 minutes os sanding. I just assumed it was an isolated issue with my particular frame. No more headset play. The time it would have taken me to email my problem to Yishun and wait for an official answer, I figured it out on my own. Honestly I've never contacted any of these brands with my issues. It's more fun to troubleshoot myself and it adds to my bike building experience. It's a cheap frame after all.

[PLA]

For the bottom bracket, I also wanted to try the dub version but even Hambini doesn't recommend 29mm bb86 so i'll just stick with 24mm spindle cranks for longetivity of the BB bearings.

Correcto. Stick to 24mm with bb86.

[Dark17]

I successfully sanded the headset cover after countless of hours and it's now smoothly steering whilst having no headset play. Will try the bike later again and for sure I will see a lot of difference and will report it back. I am planning to have a 50km ride later with approximately 1000 meter of elevation + little bit of laps on my local circuit.

[Dark17]

Just an update on the ride experience that I had earlier. Please note that the only point of reference that I can provide is my previous bike which is a Merida Scultura

Well my experience on everything has been an improvement so far. From cornering, climbing, going fast, sprinting and descending. The bike can do it all. The most surprising improvement I got from my previous bike is cornering on descents and tight turns. I dunno maybe because I came from rim brake but I can comfortably corner that hairpins unlike before. With control and just a little bit of braking power. For descending, the bike can go really fast after a few seconds that I kept asking to myself "wtf am I descending like a madman?". I think that this bike excels on flats, well after all this is an aero bike, but I think it excels more on false flats because I nearly beat my PR on our local circuit with a false flat section.

As for the cons, I think Patrick is right that this bike is suppose to be ridden fast. I dunno but for me, I am not comfortable riding this bike with little power output. I need to go to the reach of my handlebars just to eliminate the discomfort of riding this bike slow. And this bike is hard to handle on really steep climbs (18% - 22%). You need to either ride holding the reach the handlebar, put your ass in front of saddle or just stand all the way. These 2 are the only things I know that my previous bike is handles pretty well, tho I think I just need to familiarize my body on the new bike and I can turn this cons into pros in the future.

Overall, this bike is really fast and overall improvement from my previous bike. Build quality is superb (minus the headset cover but I guess it's a part of experience). Everything went smoothly minus my fck ups on the choice of bottom bracket. I would still buy mainstream brands in the future but I think this will be my bike for years to come.

PS: I would never go back to mechanical shifting again lol. I think my next investment on my bike would be a Di2 or an eTAP

Parts of my bike:

Groupset: LTwoo ER9
Wheelset: Yishun's 206db-RSL50c (21mm IW; 28mm EW; 50mm depth) with Ultegra Rotors
Crankset: Shimano 105 7100 52/36 Stone Chainrings
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra 34-11 (really thankful that I went for 34 because I don't think I would survive that steep climb on my route)
Chain: Silver KMC 12 Speed
Bartape: Prologo
Saddle: SQLab 612 Ergowave Active (GOAT saddle for me)
Pedals: Favero Assioma Duo (Pedal based PM)
Tires: GP5000 front and rear from my old bike lol

Building a bike from scratch is a pleasurable experience after all and I would do it again in the future.

[craysor]

I emailed Melinda and asked for Torque specifications of the frame. Will post here as soon as i get a response. I am also in the middle of building the frame as I already have my wheelset which is Yishun's 206db-RSL50c

Something new? I need the torque of the seatpost

[Dark17]

Something new? I need the torque of the seatpost

Completely forgot about this one I'm sorry. Here's a response from Melinda

Hello friend,
Normally the torque on the frames as below:
M5: 6-8N
M6: 8-10N
M8: 10-12N

Stem/handlebar clamp and front derailleur, brake screw:  6-8N max.

Best regards,
Melinda

[Dark17]

I think Yishun updated R086-D's geometry. I dunno but i believe it got even crazier than before.

Size 540's stack-reach ratio is now a whooping 1.31? WTF is Yishunbike thinking and what is this bike for? I hope it's just a mistake on their end.

[chughes]

@Dark17: Think you should ask them (will do same). On a recent group ride, someone was interested in my frameset. I had to caution them that when making a selection don't just go with regular sizing. Pointed out to them that my size 50 matches a 54 in Specialized SL7 geometry (based on the prior size chart). They then looked at the size of my frame and and was astounded on how it could be a size 50. If the current chart is correct they will need to offer longer seat-posts (350 is too small considering their minimum claimed insertion of 115)

[Sakizashi]

The geometry in terms of reach, stack, and saddle position are pretty close to my custom bike. If you want to, this geometry can allow you to rotate forward into a low and long position which is ideal for experimenting with narrow bars without resorting to a really long stem. The effect is that you can get in that really fast, aero position while maintaining a decent weight balance. With that in mind the size 50 with a -6 100mm stem is more like a 52 Tarmac with the -12 110mm stem.

Within reason you need a also need ~1cm in additional reach for every 2cm narrower you go to counteract the effects of your shoulder rotating and help you keep your arms tucked in. If you feel too stretched out a narrower bar is also an option to reduce the effective reach.

The geometry of this bike is pretty great. I would personally design it with a 5mm lower BB and a 47mm fork rake for the size 54 and below and push Enve Aero bar type dimensions for each size.

[PLA]

I think Yishun updated R086-D's geometry. I dunno but i believe it got even crazier than before.

Size 540's stack-reach ratio is now a whooping 1.31? WTF is Yishunbike thinking and what is this bike for? I hope it's just a mistake on their end.

For people with really long arms, long torso and short legs. Bit of a weird one, that's for sure.

[Sakizashi]

For people with really long arms, long torso and short legs. Bit of a weird one, that's for sure.

This is largely inaccurate. This bike with the included components is inline with the old Trek H1 geometry and the last couple generations of the Tarmac with the components typically found on pro bikes. Remember that these are designed to also use the substantial spacers for cable routing that the bike comes with. I am guessing this adds 12mm to 15mm of stack vs. a traditional design and reduce the reach by 5mm or so.

If you want a Remco like position on the bike and want to use an integrated bar stem, this will probably get you closer than any open mold I have seen.

[Sebastian]

This is largely inaccurate. This bike with the included components is inline with the old Trek H1 geometry and the last couple generations of the Tarmac with the components typically found on pro bikes. Remember that these are designed to also use the substantial spacers for cable routing that the bike comes with. I am guessing this adds 12mm to 15mm of stack vs. a traditional design and reduce the reach by 5mm or so.

If you want a Remco like position on the bike and want to use an integrated bar stem, this will probably get you closer than any open mold I have seen.

+1

People seem to forget that the stack figure usually doesn't include the obligatory spacers that you need to run in order to even build the bike up. In the days of aluminium stems it was possible to run 5mm top caps or even less (with the Cane Creek slam set for instance). I'm running a setup like this on my steel gravel bike. With this bike you need to account for 1.5 - 2cm of additional stack. At least. In fact, I asked Yishun about this and posted the measurements a few pages back.

[PLA]

This is largely inaccurate.

Incorrect. But that's okay, you are entitled to be incorrect.