Replica Factor Ostro VAM

[cryptoken]

Does anyone know the maximum seatpost insertion depth for a Factor Ostro VAM V2 (size 54)?
I noticed what seems like a ring or molding bump inside the seat tube (see attached pictures), and I had to cut about 1 cm off the seatpost to achieve a saddle height of 73 cm. Currently, I can insert the seatpost to a total depth of 18 cm.
I’ve since gotten a new, longer seatpost, but I’m unsure whether it’s safe to sand down that internal bump or if it’s there for a structural reason. Has anyone encountered this or knows the correct approach?

Also, what type of washers would you recommend for use between the cockpit clamps? Are standard M5 washers suitable, or do I need something more specific?

[offspring_fan]

The bump is there for good reason - it's so you don't jam your seatpost down any further and crack the seattube where it starts to narrow.

Max insert depth is simply the point at which your seatpost hits that bump stop.

[Serge_K]

if your seat post is too long, just cut it. It's standard practice. I've cut seat posts for various bikes because not everybody's got long legs.
Also, at some point, it's dead weight to have more insertion than you need.
There's also a question of ride quality. The right length of insertion (that's what she said) vs max length (virtually always what she prefers) should result in less comfort, and different ride quality. I dont think anyone ever bothered to quantify it, but intuitively, it makes sense.
Bottom line: cut the seat post, dont go inside to sand the frame so you can insert extra, extra seat post.
I use a hack saw w a cheap blade and a spray bottle to precipitate the carbon dust, and a mask. The spray bottle works better than the mask.

[bastianb]

if your seat post is too long, just cut it. It's standard practice. I've cut seat posts for various bikes because not everybody's got long legs.
Also, at some point, it's dead weight to have more insertion than you need.
There's also a question of ride quality. The right length of insertion (that's what she said) vs max length (virtually always what she prefers) should result in less comfort, and different ride quality. I dont think anyone ever bothered to quantify it, but intuitively, it makes sense.
Bottom line: cut the seat post, dont go inside to sand the frame so you can insert extra, extra seat post.
I use a hack saw w a cheap blade and a spray bottle to precipitate the carbon dust, and a mask. The spray bottle works better than the mask.

Composite engineer here:
Btw for everyone good practice but maybe mix in a bit of soap! Works a bit better. The dust the saw produces isn’t as fine as sanding and stuff. Nonetheless you should be aware that the fine dust can end up in your skin too and produces irritation and can end up in an allergic reaction to carbon dust. When it comes to sanding please wear clothes covering bare skin, don’t touch your skin, gloves and wash your workwear! As a general advice

[h0use]

Is Yoho still the best store to buy these in?

[-Tarantula-]

Is Yoho still the best store to buy these in?

I've ordered a frame a couple of weeks ago, should arrive beginning of May I think.
I'll keep you posted.

[eggride]

for me sl8 (yoho) was very soft , very flex, only on front was stiff. handlebar and fork. seatpost/bb and back felt like i had suspensions. and i am not a racer . i bought original seatpost which made some work. vam now is very stiff and madone gen8 too.

I also bought the SL8 from Yoho Bike. I saw your message mentioning that the other two bikes you got from them were better. In what order did you buy the bikes? Do you think the quality has improved since then?

[Icyseanfitz]

Surely in 54 pages there's a consensus for or against the quality of the fake factor, has it been compared to the original in ride characteristics, or is it such a gamble (loads of crap and good frames) to not be worth looking at, wouldn't be for me personally

[crazyravr]

You would be amazed at what ppl are willing to overlook for a nice label.

[Icyseanfitz]

You would be amazed at what ppl are willing to overlook for a nice label.

I regularly ride over 60kph so having lingering doubts about structural quality would be less than ideal

[Rebel_Yell]

I regularly ride over 60kph so having lingering doubts about structural quality would be less than ideal

Any doubts on your R01 from XMCS?

[Icyseanfitz]

Any doubts on your R01 from XMCS?

Zero tbh, it's never given me anything weird to question it, it's stiff, creak free and imo well built. That could just be bias on my side as I have 6k km done on it and (other than struggling to find a comfortable saddle) it's been the fastest and most comfortable bike I've ridden. Bonus points for no slipping saddle as I weigh 90kg.

[Rebel_Yell]

Zero tbh, it's never given me anything weird to question it, it's stiff, creak free and imo well built. That could just be bias on my side as I have 6k km done on it and (other than struggling to find a comfortable saddle) it's been the fastest and most comfortable bike I've ridden. Bonus points for no slipping saddle as I weigh 90kg.

100% with you I am 102kg and not one seat post slip.  I have had several advanced riders that ride true SL8s and they are extremely impressed with the frame and bike.  I absolutely love it. 

[BIFO17]

Hello
Unfortunately, we can't generalize. The result depends on the manufacturer's sourcing, the type of molding (not always EPS)... etc. Personally, I've never encountered the slightest problem... from my point of view, there's no structural risk; the bikes are solid. Now, are they more performant than the original? It's difficult to judge, so I have no idea, but from my point of view, that's not the question to ask. Otherwise, buy the original, which is 10 times more expensive, or buy used.

[Serge_K]

Hello
... from my point of view, there's no structural risk; the bikes are solid. Now, are they more performant than the original?

There were sl8 clone forks that exploded under riders a few months ago. There was someone on this thread with a rear triangle that made the bike unrideable.
And more performance, really? The new fake colnago weighs like 400g more than the original: how is that going to ride other than like dog $hit?