Best and worst overall quality/value components/tools/gear from AliExpress?

[mirphak]

My latest bit purchased was a combo of sensah teampro 12s shifters + GTX 810 front and rear derailleur. Works like a dream, both the brakes and the shifting are spot on. The front shifting is particularly amazing to be honest, so quick and sharp. You may argue that the brifters are big, but even with regular hand sizes they are fine to be honest.

Quite an improvement over ltwoo (particularly the rear derailleur, the one ltwoo offers with the Rx has such a soft spring...)

[kbernstein]

I wanted to give a review of the magene c606 i ended up getting after about 15 hours on it.
It's extremely frustrating because it clearly has potential to be pretty much perfect. It just needs climbpro, strava segments, the ability to import map layers of our choice because the default one sucks (and this would probably warrant an extension of storage. 4GB is enough for such a blank, undetailed map but probably not more) and most importantly the total execution of their phone app developer team by firing squad.
It really is almost perfect in terms of hardware, it's quite heavy but the screen is by far the best I've used, touchscreen is responsive, GPS data is flawless. It is really really good.
But the phone app (which is required for everything) is not just a disaster but straight up false advertising: it just doesn't work on android. Took an hour to make an account, another hour to pair the computer, and it randomly unpaired it. I didn't do anything differently, I just spammed over and over until it worked, as customer support suggested. The app is buggy, when it "works" it barely works, the app store review is full of 2 year old 1 star reviews that mirror everything I say, so they clearly don't care to fix it. Supposedly it's okay for iOS but for android, steer clear of ANYTHING magene that needs their app.
Their customer support gives you the fake platitudes and concerns of western customer support but with chinese delays. It COULD be so good but they don't care.

TLDR: Hardware is almost flawless, map layers aren't detailed enough, it lacks a climbpro-like feature, but most importantly the phone app is so bad I want whoever made it dead. Avoid. I'm returning mine

[kubackje]

I just installed those Stone 50/34 chainring and they look fire! Shifting is great on par with dura ace chainrings I had previously. For now can only recommend.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJcBUd5

[pushpush]

How do those chainrings SOUND compared to the shimano rings?

[gloscherrybomb]

Dumb question incoming - with a ztto or similar cassette, if it is 12 speed, do I need a 12 speed chain?

[SillyMochi]

"Can" work depending on the chain. Some (most are not) 11s are compatible with 12s cassettes but honestly it's really not recommended. Even if it works, the shifting is worse than on a "real" 12s chain and would lead to higher wear as well.

Given the price of chains compared to cassettes and chainrings, I really wouldn't risk it.

[Crash217]

I just installed those Stone 50/34 chainring and they look fire! Shifting is great on par with dura ace chainrings I had previously. For now can only recommend.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJcBUd5

How do those chainrings SOUND compared to the shimano rings?

I stuck a Stone 46/32 chainring setup on my gravel bike.  I don't hear them and the shifts are just as quick and accurate as the Shimano 105 and Senicx parts that have been on the bike before.

[kubackje]

How do those chainrings SOUND compared to the shimano rings?

As I said no difference between this and dura ace chainring. On my gravel bike I've changed senixc single chainring to pass quest chainring and it's noticeably better. So I can say that Stone and Pass Quest are top class.

[317]

Stuff I've liked:

Pimmer PNS clones for bibs and jerseys.  The bibs are really good.  The jerseys are a hint loose around the neck, but for the money, they are MORE than fine for training kits.  I have the real deal and will never spend the premium again. 

Spexcel clothing.  Really nice quality for the money.  Just go with one size up from US sizing.  Same with Pimmer.

YKYWBIKE base layers.  Amazing for the money.  Size up one size from US sizing as well.

RockBros photochromatic glasses.  Work as well as my Oakleys, and I tested them for UV and shatter resistance - both passed.

Elita One carbon seatpost.  Absolute no brainer purchase.   

Mid calf cycling socks from Shop2855114.  $2 a piece, stay up, super comfy. 

[jonathanf2]

Any recommendations for 3 bolt direct mount 2x chainrings that aren't too expensive? I used to get Senicx chainrings since their fit corresponds exactly to Shimano cranks/chainrings (no spacers needed), but the AliEx store that stocked them cheap, stopped selling them. Every other cheap chainring I've tried requires spacers. Also If I'm going to pay higher prices, I might as well get Stone or Pass Quest chainrings.

Anyways, I'm thinking of trying the 5 bolt Fovno 2x chainrings with a 2x 5 bolt adapter. They also have Shimano 4 bolt 2x chainrings, but I'm not aware if the 4 bolt adapters available accommodate 2x?

[kubackje]

Any recommendations for 3 bolt direct mount 2x chainrings that aren't too expensive? I used to get Senicx chainrings since their fit corresponds exactly to Shimano cranks/chainrings (no spacers needed), but the AliEx store that stocked them cheap, stopped selling them. Every other cheap chainring I've tried requires spacers. Also If I'm going to pay higher prices, I might as well get Stone or Pass Quest chainrings.

Anyways, I'm thinking of trying the 5 bolt Fovno 2x chainrings with a 2x 5 bolt adapter. They also have Shimano 4 bolt 2x chainrings, but I'm not aware if the 4 bolt adapters available accommodate 2x?

I used senixc 1by chainring and changed to pass quest and the difference in quality is very much noticeable. Also installed stone chainrings on my road bike and the  shifting quality is on par with high end Shimano. Tbh I think the best choice is to pay a little more for pass quest or stone and have top tier chainrings .

[frnchy]

I've ordered a set of 36/38 cm (hoods/drops) RXL SL handlebars (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803645579573.html) and I'll see how they are. I had a rebranded version of this bar on one of my bikes a few years ago and I liked it a lot so hopefully this new one is similar.

Update on this bar, I had it on my road bike for a few weeks and just replaced it two days ago. The width was good, much better than 40 cm, though I think I do still prefer 38 cm. The tops were comfortable and the bars were molded quite well though they were a bit overweight (183 grams) compared to the listed weight (170ish grams). Plenty stiff though, so I think those added grams were actually doing something.

However, the reason I ended up replacing them is because the drops were badly shaped; the upper parts bent my wrists at an awkward angle for braking and it felt like the lower part of the drops were truncated about 2-3 inches premature. Also, I got the glossy finish, and when removing the electrical tape holding my brake lines to the bar, the clear coat on the right side top lifted away and looks rather terrible. Not a functional issue at all but it's gotta be the weakest clear coat I've ever seen.

The bar I replaced it with is my new favorite, this flared number from ZNIINO: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804650490063.html
I got the 80 mm drop version of this bar late last year for my gravel bike and I don't recommend that bar for one reason: the bend from the tops to the drops is so sharp that it's extremely hard to install shifters! I had to remove the shift lever clamps and pry them apart to just barely be able to get them onto the bars (in fairness, once they were on, the bars have been great, but man it was miserable). The 102 mm drop version completely solves this issue and the shifters went on with zero problems. The overall shape is superb - there's a little bit of flare at the hoods but nothing obnoxious, while the bulk of the flare occurs just below the hoods and is shaped comfortably for braking, there's a nice long flat section at the ends, and the tops are a somewhat aero flat shape that's very comfortable when climbing. The routing through the bars is also easy and the entry/exit ports are large enough to fit a brake line + derailleur housing through without issue.

They're not completely flawless: their main drawbacks are their lack of stiffness (not exactly a noodle, but I can get a decent amount of flex out of them with harder out-of-the-saddle efforts) and the complete lack of space to clamp anything on the bar. It's basically impossible to put even a computer mount on these bars and I've swapped to a stem bolt mounted solution to free up space. You certainly wouldn't be able to put on clip-on aero bars or anything like that. Also the weight is so-so, I measured my 380/510 mm bars at 228 grams, but given the shaping and total arclength, there's a decent amount of material in these so they were never going to be super light. Overall, I definitely recommend these bars for road/gravel use. 

[coffeebreak]

Any recommendations for 3 bolt direct mount 2x chainrings that aren't too expensive? I used to get Senicx chainrings since their fit corresponds exactly to Shimano cranks/chainrings (no spacers needed), but the AliEx store that stocked them cheap, stopped selling them. Every other cheap chainring I've tried requires spacers. Also If I'm going to pay higher prices, I might as well get Stone or Pass Quest chainrings.

Anyways, I'm thinking of trying the 5 bolt Fovno 2x chainrings with a 2x 5 bolt adapter. They also have Shimano 4 bolt 2x chainrings, but I'm not aware if the 4 bolt adapters available accommodate 2x?

Here is my anecdotal experience. I bought one of those cheap GXP cranks and Evosid 2x chainrings. The chainrings were warped and front shifting was terrible. Basically there was a very narrow sweet spot where the chain won't rub on FD. Sent those back and got 5 arm spider because I had FSA rings at home. A week later things started creaking. I was able to eliminate bottom bracket as suspect and zeroed down on the crankset as culprit but I was still not sure which part of the crankset. Tightened all the bolts on 5 arm spider, greased everything and yet a week later noise was back. I gave up. This was on my "test" platform bike so I decided to go to 1x and ordered Goldix 48t 1x GXP ring. That 1x ring has finally stopped noises under load, its been a month. Those FSA rings were put on another bike and there is no noise either.

So it was the spider that was the problem. What I learned from this is, minimize number of bolts in those cranksets.

I will go with PassQuest chainrings absolutely. I have them on one bike and those are as good as Shimano's. But Evosid/Goldix 'rings are 20-25 bucks, these are 80.

[lantz]

Update on this bar, I had it on my road bike for a few weeks and just replaced it two days ago. The width was good, much better than 40 cm, though I think I do still prefer 38 cm. The tops were comfortable and the bars were molded quite well though they were a bit overweight (183 grams) compared to the listed weight (170ish grams). Plenty stiff though, so I think those added grams were actually doing something.

However, the reason I ended up replacing them is because the drops were badly shaped; the upper parts bent my wrists at an awkward angle for braking and it felt like the lower part of the drops were truncated about 2-3 inches premature. Also, I got the glossy finish, and when removing the electrical tape holding my brake lines to the bar, the clear coat on the right side top lifted away and looks rather terrible. Not a functional issue at all but it's gotta be the weakest clear coat I've ever seen.

The bar I replaced it with is my new favorite, this flared number from ZNIINO: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804650490063.html
I got the 80 mm drop version of this bar late last year for my gravel bike and I don't recommend that bar for one reason: the bend from the tops to the drops is so sharp that it's extremely hard to install shifters! I had to remove the shift lever clamps and pry them apart to just barely be able to get them onto the bars (in fairness, once they were on, the bars have been great, but man it was miserable). The 102 mm drop version completely solves this issue and the shifters went on with zero problems. The overall shape is superb - there's a little bit of flare at the hoods but nothing obnoxious, while the bulk of the flare occurs just below the hoods and is shaped comfortably for braking, there's a nice long flat section at the ends, and the tops are a somewhat aero flat shape that's very comfortable when climbing. The routing through the bars is also easy and the entry/exit ports are large enough to fit a brake line + derailleur housing through without issue.

They're not completely flawless: their main drawbacks are their lack of stiffness (not exactly a noodle, but I can get a decent amount of flex out of them with harder out-of-the-saddle efforts) and the complete lack of space to clamp anything on the bar. It's basically impossible to put even a computer mount on these bars and I've swapped to a stem bolt mounted solution to free up space. You certainly wouldn't be able to put on clip-on aero bars or anything like that. Also the weight is so-so, I measured my 380/510 mm bars at 228 grams, but given the shaping and total arclength, there's a decent amount of material in these so they were never going to be super light. Overall, I definitely recommend these bars for road/gravel use.

This post is triggering me. I ordered those 102mm drops and waited a month for them to show up fucking snapped in half because the seller shipped them "oversized shipping" - found the 80mm version on Choice and bought those to replace, still waiting for them - they may arrive legit like... the day before I leave for my trip, so bleeding the current bars to rerun the hoses is going to be annoying.

[lantz]

Here is my anecdotal experience. I bought one of those cheap GXP cranks and Evosid 2x chainrings. The chainrings were warped and front shifting was terrible. Basically there was a very narrow sweet spot where the chain won't rub on FD. Sent those back and got 5 arm spider because I had FSA rings at home. A week later things started creaking. I was able to eliminate bottom bracket as suspect and zeroed down on the crankset as culprit but I was still not sure which part of the crankset. Tightened all the bolts on 5 arm spider, greased everything and yet a week later noise was back. I gave up. This was on my "test" platform bike so I decided to go to 1x and ordered Goldix 48t 1x GXP ring. That 1x ring has finally stopped noises under load, its been a month. Those FSA rings were put on another bike and there is no noise either.

So it was the spider that was the problem. What I learned from this is, minimize number of bolts in those cranksets.

I will go with PassQuest chainrings absolutely. I have them on one bike and those are as good as Shimano's. But Evosid/Goldix 'rings are 20-25 bucks, these are 80.

I have 2 Evosid cranksets - one 2x for a road bike wiht BSA bottom bracket and one 1x for gravel with a T47 BB. They both creaked something *fierce* in the first 100 miles. I've disassembled and reassembled everything, tightening to spec and focusing on the crankarms really tighetning in and I've eliminated the cranking from both.

Still not stoked about it, wouldn't probably recommmend them, or buy them again, tbh.