Finished my build a week ago!
Photos (36)
https://imgur.com/a/XSRoWzDWeighs 7.5kg / 16.5lb with pedals.
Unholy mix of 11spd di2 ultegra rd, dura ace fd, grx shifters, and sram red crank with quarq pm.
Light Bicycle WR65 wheels, latex tubes, GP5000 28mm
Bars are Speeder SC-RH01 37/42cm. I've been using them for a year now and they're amazing. Perfect amount of flare, well made, carbon is super thick near the clamp, just the right amount of flex for me.
+17deg zipp stem
a bit unsightly with the old di2 junction box and e-tube wires, might switch it out for the less-old bar-end type.
Ryet 3d-printed/carbon saddle (Pro Stealth shape)
ZRace XG calipers
Build notes:
- I tried tightening the seatpost wedge to the minimum 8 N⋅m with no paste. This was a mistake because it slipped when I put my weight on it (gouged it a bit). I then applied paste and did it up to the maximum 10 N⋅m and it's been holding fine (rode it over some pothole fields fully seated).
- Of course the exact same thing happened with the Ritchey-style saddle clamp. I then did it up to a higher torque (~14 N⋅m I think) and it's been fine since. I would definitely recommend the zero-setback 2-bolt seatpost instead, if your fit allows it.
- As you can see in the last few photos, I tested the brake mount alignment by clamping the adapter with a single bolt, which left a paper-thin gap at the other mounting face, indicating that the mounts aren't perfect. Honestly, this is probably acceptable, and I'm sure most bikes are the same or worse, but I own a Park Tool DT-5.2 so I might as well use it. After facing, the gap was reduced to zero. Calipers were easy to align and have been great so far.
- It didn't come with a foam sheath or anything to minimize downtube cable rattle, so I put about 10g worth of long stiff zip ties at various points, which did the trick.
- Cable routing through the frame was pretty easy, there are generous internal guides through both chainstays and fork. Getting them though the handlebar was trickier.
- BB went in fine, I used a small dab of loctite 641. No creaks so far.
- I'm concerned with carbon steerer safety in general so I bought an 80mm long expander plug (stock is 40mm), which is long enough to go past the upper headseat bearing. It adds 30g but it's well worth it for some extra peace of mind. I also modified it on the lathe to reduce the upper lip from 3mm to 1mm (similar to the Specialized expander plugs), which let me minimize the unsupported steerer length at the top of the stem (this was done after I took the photos). In the future I might take two more steps: switching the compression ring from FSA ACR to Deda DCR, which is nylon and has much more surface area, and machining/bonding-in an aluminum tube, as they do in the pro peloton.
Ride notes: Not much to say really, it's a road bike. Compared to a modern MTB with 65deg HT, they're basically all the same
Reasonably comfortable...there's definitely some flex in the seatpost which is nice, and aero handlebars always help too. The only other cantilever on the bike is the fork, but all disc brake forks are pretty stiff.
