WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)

[JakobM]

I am just building up a road bike with EDS TX. I read something here about it needing a shorter chain than usual. What is that about? I ordered some 13&14 jockey wheels with bearings as a replacement for the stock 12&12. Hopefully they fit well but don't think they will appear chain length.

Also I am still undecided between 12s 11-30 or 11-34 cassette. Do you think the shifting will be better with the 11-30 and a slightly shorter chain.
Is it possible to block the large-large combination in the drEDS app?

[glepore]

No, you can't block the large large, and the bigger pulley wheels might give you fits with a 34. The 30 will be fine. I can't use the big/big with a 34 on a TX with an ospw and chain length set that allows use of 3 smallest cogs on little ring due to jockey wheel interference. I can set b tension so that it doesn't lock up but it still grinds and the mid cassette shifting goes to hell with high b tension. I'm going to go back to longer chain and block the smaller cogs, which you can do.

[gww_anarchy]

not want to judge any of them "Influenza"-guys on YT...I do watch them as well from times...
so just my 2ct on my Rotor Uno setup.

running it on my Yoeleo gravel Altera...1x13
set it up with 13sp AXS 10-46 Force cassette, flattop chain
(there is one thing you do need: a custom derailleur hangar)

and it just works perfect...so I cannot imagine why they were not able to install a clean shifting 11-46.

anyhow...thats just my experience
(yes, calipers are somewhere near an Ultegra brake...)

cheers

I was thinking about using the same setup for my new bike. Care to explain what the custom derailleur hangar was needed for?

[78Staff]

I will say, one complaint I still have is the shorter chain requirement of the WT setups in general (due to smaller derailleur cogs based on comment earlier in the thread) - you basically "ruin" a chain because you've shortened it past what most other group/brand setups would need.  So my advice to anyone "on the fence" would be to start with a lower cost chain, that way if you decide you don't like it and move to something else, you won't have effed up your DA chain .  For my swap to the 11sp gravel, I put a couple links back in it since moving from 11-30 to 11-34 cassette, and didn't want to cut another chain lol.  I know that's not the norm anymore, but before quick links we all used to re-pin chains, so it will do for testing, anyway.

Well this didn't age well, re-pin didn't last 50 miles.  Maybe user error, haven't re-pinned a chain in years of course.  At least it broke at the end of the ride, literally right at the start of my driveway lol. 

Went back to the 11sp chain I used originally with GRX 11-34, and it is working fine.  TBH I don't recall why I didn't use it to begin with.  I think I just didn't want that nice but now too short for pretty much anything xtr chain to go to waste maybe

No, you can't block the large large, and the bigger pulley wheels might give you fits with a 34. The 30 will be fine. I can't use the big/big with a 34 on a TX with an ospw and chain length set that allows use of 3 smallest cogs on little ring due to jockey wheel interference. I can set b tension so that it doesn't lock up but it still grinds and the mid cassette shifting goes to hell with high b tension. I'm going to go back to longer chain and block the smaller cogs, which you can do.

Yeah this is what i was running into, literally physically impossible to shift into B/B with the chain I was using from the road 52/36 11-30 setup (switching to 48/31 11-34 on the gravel bike).  I mean, one normally wouldn't be in B/B anyway, but I could see accidently getting into it and effing something up (:.  Adding the two links gave me enough chain (tbh, 3 would have been better), but as mentioned above it didn't last.

I'm was thinking of putting the 11-42 on and testing with it, but will need to order a lower price chain b/c I'm not cutting any more of my xtr/da chains that short again .  But it sounds like it probably wouldn't work very well anyway.

What's the procedure to block smaller cogs?  the dreds jeckyll app?

[JakobM]

Why didn't you use a second quick link instead of a pin?

[78Staff]

Why didn't you use a second quick link instead of a pin?

Hmm, tbh I didn't even know that was a thing .  Will keep in mind for next time.  I still have the chain, just marked "short" lol.  So I will try it when I pull it out again.  Although I added two links, and tbh 3 would have been better - so adding a 2nd QL might not have made a difference.  But I will check as I hate for that XTR chain to go to waste. 

It would likely work fine as is if I switch to an 11-30, which I have one pulled from my road bike when I upgraded to Di2 (11-34).  But this is my gravel bike, so not sure about running a 30 max rear cog.  Heck I was thinking of dropping in the 11-42 even lol.

[glepore]

What's the procedure to block smaller cogs?  the dreds jeckyll app?

There's a setting "rd protection" or something like that in the dreds app that allows you to toggle it on or off. If you've only used the factory app, it should be on by default.
I don't repin chains-just use another quick link. Its not a problem. There's stories of a guy who built an entire chain of quick links and rode it for a few hundred miles. I have over 2k on a chain with two, but my max sprint is only 700w or so.

[78Staff]

There's a setting "rd protection" or something like that in the dreds app that allows you to toggle it on or off. If you've only used the factory app, it should be on by default.
I don't repin chains-just use another quick link. Its not a problem. There's stories of a guy who built an entire chain of quick links and rode it for a few hundred miles. I have over 2k on a chain with two, but my max sprint is only 700w or so.

Yeah I use dreds... ok will look for it.  I have the "oem" protection still that I have not modified, ie blocking the bottom 3 on the small CR. 

I'm going to order a cheap 105 or kmx chain and try that 11-42 .  Might be a waste of money, but will have another spare chain at the worst b/c it will be cut longer than any of my other sets would use.

Re the QL's, I will keep that in mind, b/c that DA/XTR chain is not that old and $$$.  If I switch the road bike back to 11-30 (which I am likely going to do, not sure why I put the 11-34 on there), then I can probably use it there.

TBH I kinda wish I had the GX set now instead of the TX - since it's on the gravel bike, I'd prefer a single/mullet setup there.  But would also have to change cranksets or do some modification to my GRX crankset I guess also.  Got too many cranksets laying around as it is - the original praxis that came on it, a GRX 165 2x I tried, the GRX 170 2x I am running now, plus the Ultegra 52/36 on the road bike and a 50/34 Ultregra also...sigh.

I have the OX on my Niner, it works reasonably well.  I don't really push that bike, it's more of a casual riding around fun bike, not any serious hardcore MTB stuff.  light trails, beaches, bebopping around the neighborhood stuff, etc.  ie, not worthy of a $1000-2000 electronic upgrade.  But worth the $300 or so the OX cost last black friday .

[78Staff]

I'm going to order a cheap 105 or kmx chain and try that 11-42 .  Might be a waste of money, but will have another spare chain at the worst b/c it will be cut longer than any of my other sets would use.

Well being the generally impatient type, I decided to go ahead and use one of my spare 11sp DA chains and swapped out the 11-34  to the 11-42.  Figure if it doesn't work I haven't messed up my chain since I won't have cut very much off so can still use it later on 11-34 setups still.

Changeover went pretty well... the TX RD has barely enough range for the 42, at least in stock setup.  I don't have the 8-10mm gap on the big cog they recommend, closer to 4-6mm (if that) which is what Shimano typically rec's iirc.  It still shifts to the 42 up/down fine, perhaps a tad slower than the other cogs, but no noise, etc.  This is all on the stand, I'll give it a proper test ride later today.

B-screw is maxed, at least maxed with that little black plastic keeper nut thing, which I'm not sure is really necessary tbh.  Removing it I could easily get 3-4 more turns on the b-screw.  I also have a WT Road link I could put on, but would rather not unless I absolutely need it, to keep things simple.  Or I could drop down to an 11-40 which I also have.
 
Still, I think a bit more gap would be ideal...

<EDIT> Did a quick 10km loop around the neighborhood... no issues shifting up/down on the 42.  Still, when I got back I went ahead and removed that little black plastic "donut" which allowed me to get a few more turns on the screw.  I put a dab of blue Loctite on it, but I don't suspect it is going anywhere.  Def gives a bit more gap/breathing room, and sits on the hanger shelf fine.  Still (and now realizing my CS is 48/31, not 50/36 lol), I'm not sure the use case for a 42 on the back is really there for me.  North Florida US just does not have that much in the way of elevation changes.  31/42 is comically slow lol, and hard to even use unless finding a hill of some degree to plod up.  But, I figure it might be useful for bikepacking off paved roads b/c of added weight, which is my Checkpoint's alter ego .

(Before removing the "donuT")...

[glepore]

Cool, I've thought about removing the keeper. My issue has been that when I use enough b screw to clear the large cog the mid cassette shifting goes to hell, changes in mid gears become very slow...

[78Staff]

Well being the generally impatient type, I decided to go ahead and use one of my spare 11sp DA chains and swapped out the 11-34  to the 11-42.  Figure if it doesn't work I haven't messed up my chain since I won't have cut very much off so can still use it later on 11-34 setups still.

well it was a fun experiment, but I've pulled the 11-42 and switched back to the stock 11-34.  I just don't have the elevation changes around here to make use of the 42 tooth cog.  Much like the 52 on my Niner, it's comical to try and use it.

Will keep it in reserve and toss it on for bikepacking maybe... 

[78Staff]

well it was a fun experiment, but I've pulled the 11-42 and switched back to the stock 11-34.  I just don't have the elevation changes around here to make use of the 42 tooth cog.  Much like the 52 on my Niner, it's comical to try and use it.

Will keep it in reserve and toss it on for bikepacking maybe...

And, well I split the difference, since I also had an 11-40 laying around.  Put it on, plenty of b-screw for the 40, and shifts pretty well.  Oddly I had to bump almost each cog by 10, which tbh surprised me as one would think the spacing on all Shimano 11sp cassettes would be the same. Anyway, figure it would come in handy crossing this lovely little "hill"...  this is what passes for elevation in Florida lol. 

[lkbfreak]

I just ordered 18T Hollow Pulley Wheel after some users reported it works with EDS TX. Waiting to arrive and I'll report back after the installation and use.

[benquick]

Hi, I've searched the thread, but I haven't found anyone who had the same issue before, so here we go:

I have been a user of the WheelTop EDS TX for about 1.5 years now (probably ~10k km), but a few days ago I noticed that the shifting in the rear has become completely unreliable. Sometimes it skips gears, sometimes it doesn't shift at all. I did not change anything on the bike lately, so this definitely surprised me.

First thing I noticed was that one of the springs in the rear derailleur is broken, so I took it out, shortened it and bent it so it exerts tension on the housing again. I don't know how long has the spring been broken for, and I am not sure it caused the problem in the first place, but it certainly seems like it didn't resolve it. Next thing I figured out was that I can adjust the initial offset in the 12th gear all I want, but after a few shifts up and down, the derailleur is stuck in the 11th gear again. I can readjust the initial position indefinitely, but after some shifting it stops going into the smallest cog -- if only by a little bit every time. It is a weird issue and I am wondering if there is something else that I should check.

So, concrete questions I have:
- is there an option to factory reset the groupset? I can't find it in the app or on the internet.
- do you think I need a new rear derailleur?
- is new WheelTop hardware still compatible with the one from the ~2 years ago? Will a new rear derailleur work with other parts remaining the same?
- does it even make sense to buy the rear derailleur only? It costs ~325€ (270€ before taxes) before applying coupons on AliExpress. What are other sensible options?

I am also attaching a video of another potential issue I noticed. It doesn't explain the problem I described above, but I am wondering if your rear derailleurs exhibit the same play as in the video.

Any other ideas also welcome & thank you very much.

[benquick]

UPDATE: The issue got resolved, but the resolution is also weird. After a while, I noticed that the "racing mode" is not persistent anymore. For example, I set the racing mode ON and sleep mode ON in the dreds app, and that was how I have kept it for the last 2 years. However, I recently noticed that when I opened the official WheelTop app, the mode was sometimes shown as standard, and sometimes as racing. Even when I switched from the standard to racing mode in the official app, it would sometimes stay that way for some time and then switch back in front of my eyes.

Maybe by some weird combination of switching modes in both apps, or simply by trying enough times, the modes in both apps now seem permanent and consistent: standard mode with sleep mode on. I had to reindex the gears, but for the last 200km the issue has not popped up yet. Note, that earlier the problem would arise after a few gear shifts every time.

I doubt (and hope) any of you will have the same issue in the near future, but just for the sake of documenting a solution to my own problem I post this here so that this does not remain unanswered.