LTWOO eGR

[00Garza]

Well...couldn't resist the holiday coupons and pulled the trigger on a eGR group.

I'll keep my GR9 on my current bike as I look for a new gravel frame to put the eGR on. Might actually try something will full cable integration since I don't have to worry about cable routing as much.
Bought from 80 Designer Store as they took care of me when my GR9 group had issues.

[Rapac]

Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?

So yes it works ! And you can have a front derailleur (er9 in my case) with your egr rear derailleur 

[jonathanf2]

I finally installed my eGR I bought during the Black Friday sale. Works great, but I have a huge features request LTwoo should implement. I was previously running 2 wheelsets with both XD and HG cassettes. When I was running mechanical, all it took was a slight adjustment on the barrel adjuster and lower limit screw. It took less than 30 seconds to adjust. Without having wheel profiles, I now have to individually adjust each cassette cog, regardless if they're both 11 speed. I know others have multiple cassette speeds and that's just another issue worth addressing. As it stands, you can only adjust for 1 cassette and 1 speed selection (10, 11, 12, etc.).

Anyways my initial first impressions is that it works great. The one perk with electronic shifting is that every shift is perfect and the improved shifter button haptics on the eGR shift levers are much better. Plus having learned the quirks of the LTwoo system with the eR9, makes me appreciate the subtle improvements on the eGR. Battery-wise, I picked up some cheap blue batteries, but surprisingly they work quite well with no issues. I think LTwoo did themselves a disservice with their shoddy customer service and bad QC on the early batches of eR9/eRX hardware. The engineering is there and for those willing to get their hands dirty, this groupset is an amazing value! I bought my eGR for less than $300 USD! 

[trcycling]

I finally installed my eGR I bought during the Black Friday sale. Works great, but I have a huge features request LTwoo should implement. I was previously running 2 wheelsets with both XD and HG cassettes. When I was running mechanical, all it took was a slight adjustment on the barrel adjuster and lower limit screw. It took less than 30 seconds to adjust. Without having wheel profiles, I now have to individually adjust each cassette cog, regardless if they're both 11 speed. I know others have multiple cassette speeds and that's just another issue worth addressing. As it stands, you can only adjust for 1 cassette and 1 speed selection (10, 11, 12, etc.).

Anyways my initial first impressions is that it works great. The one perk with electronic shifting is that every shift is perfect and the improved shifter button haptics on the eGR shift levers are much better. Plus having learned the quirks of the LTwoo system with the eR9, makes me appreciate the subtle improvements on the eGR. Battery-wise, I picked up some cheap blue batteries, but surprisingly they work quite well with no issues. I think LTwoo did themselves a disservice with their shoddy customer service and bad QC on the early batches of eR9/eRX hardware. The engineering is there and for those willing to get their hands dirty, this groupset is an amazing value! I bought my eGR for less than $300 USD! 

That has been my use case (11s HG and XDr wheelsets) and it hasn't been an issue for me. Perhaps I just got lucky since both cassettes are from the same manufacturer (Garbaruk). But two thoughts occur to me on how to make this work for you.

1) Maybe one could use a shim to put it in the same lateral position as the other and thus blindly swappable.
2) If you do have to recalibrate between cassettes, did you try only doing the main index change? I made the mistake when first installing of not doing that right and found that using the individual settings 'works' but sucks. By getting the primary right first it works much better and might deal with your issue.

[jonathanf2]

That has been my use case (11s HG and XDr wheelsets) and it hasn't been an issue for me. Perhaps I just got lucky since both cassettes are from the same manufacturer (Garbaruk). But two thoughts occur to me on how to make this work for you.

1) Maybe one could use a shim to put it in the same lateral position as the other and thus blindly swappable.
2) If you do have to recalibrate between cassettes, did you try only doing the main index change? I made the mistake when first installing of not doing that right and found that using the individual settings 'works' but sucks. By getting the primary right first it works much better and might deal with your issue.

I was tweaking it today and the 2 cassettes I'm running are just too different (ZTTO 9-46t & Sunrace 11-46t) to calibrate. I'll probably replace the Sunrace with another ZTTO cassette, but I'm not really fond of the alloy big cog on that cassette. I had to return one because the alloy cog tooth broke off.

On my wheelset with the ZTTO 9-46t plus gravel slicks, it's not an issue since I don't even use the 46t cog, but I need the 9t for the extra road speed. On the trails I need more durability with my climbing gears and less emphasis on speed. The alloy big cogs on the Sunrace cassette is actually very durable compared to other cassettes I've tried.

If I do shim the cassette, it might be for the ZTTO cassette since I believe XD is just slightly more in-board.

[pavlo.k]

Did anyone install eGR on a bike with a dropper post? where did you put the battery?
I know there are downtube mounts with a battery installed through the opening under the bb but I don't have that opening in the frame,
The only solution that comes to mind is to just bubble wrap the battery and put it inside of the seat tube once the dropper cable is routed

[trcycling]

Did anyone install eGR on a bike with a dropper post? where did you put the battery?
I know there are downtube mounts with a battery installed through the opening under the bb but I don't have that opening in the frame,
The only solution that comes to mind is to just bubble wrap the battery and put it inside of the seat tube once the dropper cable is routed

Yes. Not ideal. I mounted mine externally. I wrapped the case in heatshrink and used a pump mount to mount it next to the seat tube bottle cage. Then ran the wires along the frame wrapped in silicone self-stick tape (the kind that sticks to itself and doesn't use glue to the frame). Worked fine but kinda fugly. I didn't have the exit holes in the frame anyway so external was the only option (besides drilling).

I've read of some people stashing the battery in the down tube instead. Depending on how your BB is set up that could work well.

[trcycling]

I was tweaking it today and the 2 cassettes I'm running are just too different (ZTTO 9-46t & Sunrace 11-46t) to calibrate. I'll probably replace the Sunrace with another ZTTO cassette, but I'm not really fond of the alloy big cog on that cassette. I had to return one because the alloy cog tooth broke off.

On my wheelset with the ZTTO 9-46t plus gravel slicks, it's not an issue since I don't even use the 46t cog, but I need the 9t for the extra road speed. On the trails I need more durability with my climbing gears and less emphasis on speed. The alloy big cogs on the Sunrace cassette is actually very durable compared to other cassettes I've tried.

If I do shim the cassette, it might be for the ZTTO cassette since I believe XD is just slightly more in-board.

If you're using the 9t that much and not the 46t, you might be better off with a bigger chainring (if it fits)

[jonathanf2]

If you're using the 9t that much and not the 46t, you might be better off with a bigger chainring (if it fits)

My off-road terrain is all the mountains, but I live close enough I ride from my front door. So there's a balance between decent road speeds and low gear climbing.

I've already tried 40t-thru-44t. I found 38t and xx-46t hits that perfect balance for my area. My ideal cassette would be an all-steel, lightweight 9/10-46t (similar to the Spedao 10-42t), but no one makes it! 

[trcycling]

Fair enough. I have similar needs but want a LOW LOW gear so run a 10-50 (XDr) and an 11-50 (HG) with a 32t. Yeah, I spin that out over about 22mph/35kph but don't care because on the gravel bike that's downhill anyway    I'd get my butt handed to me on a road group ride so I would take a different bike.

[jonathanf2]

I got caught in some rain with my eGR. The groupset handled the wet weather like a champ. I'm hoping LTwoo will implement the improved weather sealing with their road groupsets! Once you go electronic, especially for gravel, it's hard to go back to mechanical! 

[amacal1]

I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.

Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.

[trcycling]

I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.

Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.

I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec).  I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting.  I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t.  Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.

[amacal1]

I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec).  I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting.  I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t.  Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.

Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.

On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.

Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)

[jonathanf2]

Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.