New frame: Longteng RD301-D

[maza]

This thru axle gives 3mm more capacity. It fits if you trust 2mm is enough.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007535904782.html

[Ahodesu05]

This thru axle gives 3mm more capacity. It fits if you trust 2mm is enough.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007535904782.html

Is the problem that the thru axle is too long? Or is the problem that the threaded part is too short?  If I use the washer/spacer as LT advised, does this create any potential issues for rider safety or frame integrity?  Thanks for your patience on this .

@kwantani I believe it's a standard "M2" washer with 20mm outer diameter and 12mm inner diameter. I called around and one LBS has it, I'm also going to check some hardware stores. I'll give this a try and see what happens, but if the thru axle is the root issue, the washer is a temporary solution until I replace the thru axle.

[maza]

Is the problem that the thru axle is too long? Or is the problem that the threaded part is too short?  If I use the washer/spacer as LT advised, does this create any potential issues for rider safety or frame integrity?  Thanks for your patience on this .

Axle is too long or threads are too short. I would prefer this length axle with longer threading. Based on your measurements there is 6mm space before it protrudes on the drive side.

You should use as thin spacer as possible. With optimum thickness spacer you will be using all 15mm of the threads. 10mm too thick and it will engage only 5mm of the threads. At 15mm too thick the axle won't thread in at all. Someone more proficient with properties of materials is the one who to ask what is the minimum safe threading.

[Bowen1911]

You should use as thin spacer as possible. With optimum thickness spacer you will be using all 15mm of the threads. 10mm too thick and it will engage only 5mm of the threads. At 15mm too thick the axle won't thread in at all. Someone more proficient with properties of materials is the one who to ask what is the minimum safe threading.

General rule of thumb, is if you have the diameter of the fastener in thread engagement length, you will meet full material strength (for like materials).  It's certainly more nuanced than that, and I hate doing thread strength math, but it's a good starting point

[kwantani]

I've an extra TA from my java bike: 165MM M12*P1.5-L16
 I can try tonight when I get home... 165mm seems to be on the short side though.

[maza]

I've an extra TA from my java bike: 165MM M12*P1.5-L16
 I can try tonight when I get home... 165mm seems to be on the short side though.

It is only 3mm shorter than the supplied thru axle with 2mm spacer. This Java TA should fit and fix the play issue. Please try and report! I'm getting ready to make an order on this frame once this issue is sorted out.

[Ahodesu05]

Axle is too long or threads are too short. I would prefer this length axle with longer threading. Based on your measurements there is 6mm space before it protrudes on the drive side.

You should use as thin spacer as possible. With optimum thickness spacer you will be using all 15mm of the threads. 10mm too thick and it will engage only 5mm of the threads. At 15mm too thick the axle won't thread in at all. Someone more proficient with properties of materials is the one who to ask what is the minimum safe threading.

I've also been exchanging emails/pics/videos with Robert Axle Project, and this is their opinion (quoting their email) - it appears to be a multi-faceted issue:

• The axle appears to be bottoming out in the derailleur hanger, so it is too long.
• It looks like the frame is meant to be Universal Derailleur Hanger compatible, but the hanger and axle in the frame are not compliant with UDH standards - they use P1.5 thread instead of P1.0. If you replace the rear axle with another P1.5 axle, it will not be compatible with a real UDH down the road.
• The head of the axle appears to be in a recess on the non-drive side, and will require about ~2mm of spacers to work with the frame. We sell a 12x19x3mm flat spacer on our website that can take up the slack on the axle.
• If you want a shorter axle to replace your stock axle so that you do not need a spacer, we recommend LIG629
• If you want a UDH compatible rear axle and a standard UDH, we recommend LIG603 and our Universal Derailleur Hanger

I shared this feedback with Longteng, asking them to source the right TA and UDH.

My plan is to try the spacer first, and then probably replace the rear TA (good excuse to upgrade!).

Anyway, thanks for all the feedback, hope this also helps anyone considering this frame.

[Edit: when I told Alisa about this, she said they did have problems with the rear TA in the first batch of bikes and have replaced their supply. So for anyone getting this frame, you should make sure they have the right TA. Or just source a true UDH and axles yourself. And, I got some M12 spacers (20 outer diameter, 12 inner diameter) and they fit perfectly and mitigated the wobble. I tried 2 1mm spacers but this induced some brake rub against the disc, so I ended up using just 1 1mm spacer which also does the job. I’ll replace the rear TA eventually.]

[kwantani]

GOOD NEWS!
As soon as I replaced the TA with the one from my other Java Fuoco bike, the rear wheel wobble/play disappeared!

Looks like LongTeng sourced the wrong size TA.

It is only 3mm shorter than the supplied thru axle with 2mm spacer. This Java TA should fit and fix the play issue. Please try and report! I'm getting ready to make an order on this frame once this issue is sorted out.

[kwantani]

I understand Chinese bike in general has no serial number. Is this the case for LT as well? maybe they've some hidden serial # etched in some where. I looked, but so far can't find them.

[Hillhater]

I understand Chinese bike in general has no serial number. Is this the case for LT as well? maybe they've some hidden serial # etched in some where. I looked, but so far can't find them.

I asked to LT bike to print serical number(or code) on the frame when I order, the reply was that there is no serial number.

I think they have batch number at least for the manufacture, but it seems they don't like to disclose it.

[Alexander]

Super. Let us know when it arrives if I may ask.

Will do! However, I got an email from Vivian saying that they did not have the fork in matt black which I have ordered. They could send me a raw carbon fork and I could paint it but I don't want that so I rather wait until after their holidays for me to get the fork and frame in the same color. Still snow here in Sweden anyways. They will send the frame + fork in February instead.

[Alexander]

Has anybody put a powermeter on this frame?

I am trying to figure out if the Magene 505 would work or something else.

[Crucial97]

I was curious if we could get any ride reports from the members who built up the frame?
I'm heavily considering getting this frame in the near future and was just wondering how it felt ok the road and if anyone could compare it to any other mainstream bikes they've ridden?

Also how offset is the seatpost that it comes with. I've been trying to figure out what size frame to buy. With the offset post I'm leaning towards 50/52. I am 170cm tall with a 79cm inseam?

[Ahodesu05]

I was curious if we could get any ride reports from the members who built up the frame?
I'm heavily considering getting this frame in the near future and was just wondering how it felt ok the road and if anyone could compare it to any other mainstream bikes they've ridden?

Also how offset is the seatpost that it comes with. I've been trying to figure out what size frame to buy. With the offset post I'm leaning towards 50/52. I am 170cm tall with a 79cm inseam?

I'll share some impressions. I'm only at around 500km logged on the bike and I'm comparing this to my previous bike, which is an older 2013 Scott CR1 Pro, so take this FWIW.

- Handling is neutral, as you'd expect from its geometry. It's not a twitchy race or crit bike, but it's responsive enough and confident through corners and on twisty descents. This is something I appreciate, coming from my jittery Scott.

- Ride quality is pretty compliant. I can feel the road but much less of the impact vs. my Scott, if that makes any sense. I have 32mm tires (on wheels with steel - not carbon - spokes) so I'm sure that contributes to the ride quality.

- It's pretty fast. Compared to my Scott, I average 1 - 1.5 km/h faster on my endurance rides. I haven't done too many high intensity efforts but I expect the aero qualities to shine through even more when I do.  I don't know if this is just about the frame from an aero perspective: I put on narrower 38cm bars and 45mm wheels, so it's probably the overall package.

- I took the bike on a local climb that averages ~7.5%, where aerodynamics don't come into play, and set a PB (even though I've done mostly base miles recently). This bike is pretty close in weight to my Scott, so it wasn't about weight savings. On steeper climbs, it's more about power and rolling resistance. Frame stiffness (and that ginormous T47 BB) probably helps with more efficient power application, and my new-ish GP5000 with TPU tubes contribute on the rolling resistance front. So the whole bike probably contributes to added speed on climbs, not just the frame.

- Acceleration is pretty good. I mentioned before that on my first few rides through traffic, I had to soft pedal a few times when I found myself getting up to speed a bit quicker than what I was used to.

So, overall, I think the ride is pretty much the all-arounder that it's billed as. I've been pretty happy with it. I haven't ridden other Chinese frames or more modern big brand frames to make those comparisons, but I think what Peak Torque said in one of his videos is probably right: once you get these Chinese frames built up, it's hard to tell them apart.

The seat post offset is around 20mm but you can ask LT to confirm.

I'm 174cm with 78cm inseam and got the 52, which fits me pretty well. I almost got the 50 because I was also a bit worried about the seat post offset impact on reach, but the 52 worked out well for me with the narrower bars helping to reduce the reach a bit to fit me.

Hope this helps!

[Ahodesu05]

Has anybody put a powermeter on this frame?

I am trying to figure out if the Magene 505 would work or something else.

I don't think the Magene works with the T47 bottom bracket - I asked Magene previously and they said no. I have a 4iiii 3+ on mine.