Workswell WCB-M-062

[bxcc]

It seems my 062 has a small crack. http://imgur.com/gallery/NZiPN   the first picture shows the first cracking i noticed. The second picture shows a small crack that i cant feel, however every 2 days it leaks out white stuff.. I asked workswell what to do.. they said ride it harder to see if it is a paint crack or a structural crack. I have since ridden it 500km standing more and mashing it as much as I can.. I really can't say if it has gotten any larger, but we will see since I have only had my frame for 1 year/1500km.. I weight 200lbs and ride 99% xc trails with no major jumps/drops..

Will keep others up to date on the process with them.

That's not good at all. Couple of questions though.
1) is the white stuff a powder or liquid?
2) what does the seat post look like?

If you have been standing more and the crack isn't growing, it could be caused by the stress that is put on the seat and seatpost which is will flex the seat tube back into the stays. Maybe try riding harder but still being seated? Like another has said, try lightly tapping around the crack with a coin. If anything is delaminating internally, you will be able to hear a difference in the sound. Try tapping other random places on the frame for a sound comparison.
Either way, good luck and hopefully Workswell takes care of it. I have the same frame so I am really hoping they do. A Workswell representative joined the forum awhile back. Here is a link to the thread they started.
 http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1072.0.html

[d34n]

It seems as though the white stuff is a liquid because it seeps out.. however it is dry by the time it hits the air and when i wipe away, i almost need to scratch it off if that makes sense. I don't hear any difference in noises when i tap the frame. Like I mentioned, I have ridden since first noticing the crack and have really tried to 'bag' my bike by staying seated longer and really hammering on the pedals trying to induce flex with no new increases in size. However with that said, the second picture with the weeping white stuff was not there when I first noticed the other crack, so I am assuming that one is new.

I have a thompson 410mm seatpost, it is well into the frame and was purchased when I got the frame and still looks new. I don't think it is stress from the post.

Not trying to scare anyone from the frame. It has been good to me and still seems to be holding up fine. Just thought others should know and perhaps look in the same area to see if their frames perhaps have the same thing. It wasn't until I was on a giant anthem frame forum until I seen a thread on cracked frames and sure enough when I looked mine was cracked.

[RS VR6]

Hopefully WW takes care of you. If they drag their feet...it'll be a strike on their part. No bike manufacturer has a 100% track record. It comes down to how they take care of you when an issue comes around.

I checked mine and no cracks. I did have a "tick" that took me months to find. Initially I did think it was a crack in the seat tube. It ended up to be my seat clamp. Turned it around and the ticking went away.

[d34n]

Maybe that is where my crack/creaking is coming from too.. Whenever I push hard on the right side i hear a creaking noise and haven't found the source yet.

[RS VR6]

Is WW going to replace your frame? There is no way I'd be willing to ride a broken frame to see it it would break more. What if the frame does break more and I somehow get hurt?

They should take the frame back and test themselves. 

[d34n]

No real answer yet. Almost like they don't think it is an issue. Here is the last message they sent me.

" Dear Dale Good Day
Thank you share the BBS to us .
How was your the frame now ?
I am very busy always , if you did not get answer from me .
please send message sales02@workswellbikes.com
i always online email .
Aliexpress easy to missed message sometime
thank you
best regards
Jerry"

[xwandi]

Hi everyone.

Finally my order from Workswell has arrived. Got it from the same Aliexpress seller, as it was mentioned in one of the posts earlier (Shenzhen Huasheng Sports Co., Limited). Everything went smoothly, including painting customization and additional spare parts order (extra rear hangers). I only had to wait extra 10 days before the frame was shipped due to national holidays in China, which I was not aware of 
This one is for my wife, as I already own an original Specialized Stump and love its geometry. Thanks for sharing your experience and feedbacks here. They gave me much more confidence to start experimenting with Chinese frame based build

[tripleDot]

Nice to have you on board xwandi.  I like your paint scheme.  I would suggest you create a new thread for your built.  That way people can see your progress much better.

[jimdunlop]

Hey there,

I am planning to buy an M062 frame for the next season.
On my current bike I use an X0 right side crank arm together with an X9 Stages Powermeter left side crank arm in the GXP version.
I was wondering - as I read that there is not too much space in the chainstay area - if this setup would be possible with the M062?

Thanks for your help!

[bxcc]

X9 and X0 cranks both work fine. 2 questions though. 1) Does the power meter add thickness to the crankarm? 2) what is the q-factor of the crankset?

[jimdunlop]

X9 and X0 cranks both work fine. 2 questions though. 1) Does the power meter add thickness to the crankarm? 2) what is the q-factor of the crankset?

Thanks for your answer.

1) The powermeter does add thickness to the crankarm. Should be around 6-7 mm on the inside of the crankarm.
2) The Q-Factor of the X0 crankset is 168mm. The X9 crankset has 171 mm. As I use X0 (right) und X9 (left) I end up with 170 mm. (with a little error in the measurement maybe..)

[bxcc]

Thanks for your answer.

1) The powermeter does add thickness to the crankarm. Should be around 6-7 mm on the inside of the crankarm.
2) The Q-Factor of the X0 crankset is 168mm. The X9 crankset has 171 mm. As I use X0 (right) und X9 (left) I end up with 170 mm. (with a little error in the measurement maybe..)

With the wider q-factor cranks, you should be all set. I can measure the clearance when I get home on Sunday. If you go with the BSA threaded BB, you can put a spacer under the non drive side cup to help a bit too. I run a spacer of sorts (chain guide) under the drive side and everything still clears with plenty of room.

[jimdunlop]

Thanks for your answer.

1) The powermeter does add thickness to the crankarm. Should be around 6-7 mm on the inside of the crankarm.
2) The Q-Factor of the X0 crankset is 168mm. The X9 crankset has 171 mm. As I use X0 (right) und X9 (left) I end up with 170 mm. (with a little error in the measurement maybe..)

With the wider q-factor cranks, you should be all set. I can measure the clearance when I get home on Sunday. If you go with the BSA threaded BB, you can put a spacer under the non drive side cup to help a bit too. I run a spacer of sorts (chain guide) under the drive side and everything still clears with plenty of room.

That sounds good. Sure would go with the BSA threaded BB.
Would be great if you can measure the space.

Which chain guide do you use? I run a chain guide with a shell-mount on my current bike. I _should_ be able to use it on the M-062 as well, but yours sounds like a nice solution.

[bxcc]

I use the Blackspire Stinger. It's the BB mount and it's actually a tensioner as I use the 062 as a singlespeed. I'll take the measurement tomorrow afternoon.

[bxcc]

I measured it to be a half inch or 12 to 13 mm's. You should be fine with that setup. You can always put one spacer under the non drive side cup to help with clearance.