Seraph Bikes Superlight 836g X68 - Alternative to SL8 Fakes?

[Sander2177]

So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.

Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?

Could have happened to anyone.
Same thing happens with branded stuff.
Also, does everyone wind back their torque wrench after use? And does everyone get their torque wrench calibrated? Probably not.
So when this bike arrives, I’ll likely just buy a new digital one.
I’ve literally just been reading the SL8 manual as I plan the build and consider the parts I might swap or replace. I was planning to follow their manual/instructions, but really, they should supply some instructions with the frame.
Can anyone here who has one confirm this — were you sent the SL8 manual, or a tan tan manual of sorts so they supply this with there other frames?
I was thinking about this myself earlier.

[dovh]

Could have happened to anyone.
Same thing happens with branded stuff.
Also, does everyone wind back their torque wrench after use? And does everyone get their torque wrench calibrated? Probably not.
So when this bike arrives, I’ll likely just buy a new digital one.
I’ve literally just been reading the SL8 manual as I plan the build and consider the parts I might swap or replace. I was planning to follow their manual/instructions, but really, they should supply some instructions with the frame.
Can anyone here who has one confirm this — were you sent the SL8 manual, or a tan tan manual of sorts so they supply this with there other frames?
I was thinking about this myself earlier.

Well yeah, I hope I just had bad luck and it's not a quality issue indicator.. Waiting now for the invoice from Tantan and hopefully it gets here fast 
I didn't get any manual with the bike or anything, the only thing was that the expansion plug for the steerer had a QR code going to the specialized site with sl7/8 expansion plug instructions. I went with the SL8 manual as the bikes are pretty much identical with really minor differences.

[Sander2177]

Well yeah, I hope I just had bad luck and it's not a quality issue indicator.. Waiting now for the invoice from Tantan and hopefully it gets here fast 
I didn't get any manual with the bike or anything, the only thing was that the expansion plug for the steerer had a QR code going to the specialized site with sl7/8 expansion plug instructions. I went with the SL8 manual as the bikes are pretty much identical with really minor differences.

The $40 for the new seatpost seems fair so that good news.
I will press  for the installation instructions myself and see what they say, once I get confirmation that the frame is finished, I’ll update everyone.

As with my Venge, SL7, and SL8 builds, I won’t be using the supplied expander plug — I’ll fit a Carbon-Ti or Extralite expander instead.
I’ve already sourced some titanium bolt upgrades and a replacement front brake mount, as I’m aiming for a budget Weight Weenie build.
For smaller titanium parts like the seatpost wedge and seat clamp bolts, I’m using TAIMELI via AliExpress — they offer the same quality as TiParts Titanium but at a much better price.
And possibly Ti Thru axles if I can get a good price on Aliexpress also or maybe use my Overfast Axles and upgrade to TiMaster of the gen SL8, decisions decisions.
I’ll check if my Darimo post from the SL8 fits out of interest
I’ll likely use the supplied post, cut it down, and swap the fitting and cradle to save weight.
Trying my best to keep this build budget!

[Tines]

Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo 

The reference is matte right?
(The specialized model)

[glepore]

So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.

Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?

I'd personally just make that bolt firmly tight. I disassembled my post to grease those surfaces and it is annoying to put back together, and I understand how you stripped that lower fastener-neither are easy to align, particularly when everything is greased. You may have damaged the post in the initial stripping. But 6nm on that fastener seems unnecessasary.

[makl]

I finished my built. Everything went straight-forward, almost no problems (just one with the freehub). Delivery was faster than expected, communication with Tan Tan was always fast. However, they sent me a black matte frame instead of an UD matte one, which in the end didn't really matter to me. It ended up weighing 6.9 kg including pedals and garmin mount (size 56).

I wanted to try a 1-by setup with a 13 speed cassette (in order to mitigate huge gaps between cogs) which I realized with a Wheeltop GeX Groupset, a pass quest aero chainring and an Ekar cassette. It's steep where I live, so I opted for 42T in the front and 9-42 T in the back. Shifting is absolutely smooth in all cogs without any sounds or rattles! I'm really satisfied with the set-up.

Concerning my problem: The freehub doesn't work anymore as soon as I torque the through-axel to the usual force while installing the rear wheel. If I loosen the axel, everything works like intended, as soon as I tighten it, the spinning wheel will rotate the crank (not slightly, but which huge force!). Note: I converted the serenade hub to an DT Swiss N3W freehub body... Does anybody have any hints on how to solve this?

[Sander2177]

I finished my built. Everything went straight-forward, almost no problems (just one with the freehub). Delivery was faster than expected, communication with Tan Tan was always fast. However, they sent me a black matte frame instead of an UD matte one, which in the end didn't really matter to me. It ended up weighing 6.9 kg including pedals and garmin mount (size 56).

I wanted to try a 1-by setup with a 13 speed cassette (in order to mitigate huge gaps between cogs) which I realized with a Wheeltop GeX Groupset, a pass quest aero chainring and an Ekar cassette. It's steep where I live, so I opted for 42T in the front and 9-42 T in the back. Shifting is absolutely smooth in all cogs without any sounds or rattles! I'm really satisfied with the set-up.

Concerning my problem: The freehub doesn't work anymore as soon as I torque the through-axel to the usual force while installing the rear wheel. If I loosen the axel, everything works like intended, as soon as I tighten it, the spinning wheel will rotate the crank (not slightly, but which huge force!). Note: I converted the serenade hub to an DT Swiss N3W freehub body... Does anybody have any hints on how to solve this?

Bike looks great!
Sounds like a smooth build overall. Interesting to hear this is the second time Tan Tan has sent the wrong paint finish—did they provide any confirmation photos before shipping, or offer any kind of compensation for the mistake?

Also, when did you place your order, and how long did delivery take?

[makl]

Ordered: 13.03.2025
Shipped: 17.04.2025
Arrived in Germany: 25.04.2025

Yes, they sent a photo together with a tracking number. I assumed that the frame was already on its way, so I accepted the wong color. They didn't offer any reimbursement or else (which is ok for me...).

[Tom77]

Ordered: 13.03.2025
Shipped: 17.04.2025
Arrived in Germany: 25.04.2025

Yes, they sent a photo together with a tracking number. I assumed that the frame was already on its way, so I accepted the wong color. They didn't offer any reimbursement or else (which is ok for me...).

Your problem with the freehub is due to bad tolerances.
When you are torquing the axle you are making contact between the freehub body and the hub body.

I guess you have to add shims between the inner race of the freehub and the inner race of the wheel bearing.
Check ebay for shims, easiest way.

[makl]

Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?

In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...

[Ultramic]

Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?

In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...

Does everything work ok with the original serenade freehub ? If yes I assume the DT Swiss freehub is not a 100% compatible part (even though they say it is) as it's from a third party wheel.