Seraph Bikes Superlight 836g X68 - Alternative to SL8 Fakes?

[gbrnole]

Read a few posts in the whole thread. Those running Ltwoo erx or er9

I wanted to go with the er9 groupset. So it's mainly the front brake calliper that won't mount? And then there is a work around to fish out the battery from the seat tube.

Looks like the rest mounts up ok. Front and rear derailleur, shifters.

Its probably then better for me to buy it all separately rather than a full kit and go with some different callipers. And if this is the case, it's getting a little closer to a shimano 105 di2 cost, seems a better option.

Many thanks for your help.

if you go with L-Twoo here are the main points of contention:

1) best to source alternate calipers that are actually flat mount. the ZRace one's work fine - the brakes have to be bled anyway so you can just unscrew the hoses from the L-Twoo calipers and screw the used olive directly into the ZRace. It holds fine no leaks.

2) routing the power cables for the L-Twoo front and rear derailleurs to the battery is a MASSIVE pain in the azz. the stupid L-Twoo connectors are huge and it's a struggle getting them through the mounting holes on the frame. Be prepared to think you are going to rip the head off the cable getting it to the rear derailleur and having to fish out the internal mounting bracket for the front derailleur.

3) The group set works well when it is setup, honestly there's a few things about it that i wish Shimano would add like the ability to micro adjust each gear and the ability to do that from the levers while riding SRAM style (pushing the inner button and trimming with the outer paddles) but getting to that point of shifting and braking nirvana is not quite as straightforward as it is on Shimano and SRAM.

4) for the battery i actually used braided fishing line. put several loops around the upper neck of the battery, knotted it in place and then tied the other end on the fishing line to one of the holes in the bottom of the seat post. jammed the excess length of the fishing line up inside the seat post. that worked well.

If budget is in mind and you're not overly concerned with lightest weight or a power meter then it's hard to beat the deals available on 105 Di2. It will be a bit heavier than L-Twoo, probably net about the same cost once crankset, chain and cassette are factored but will be easier to install courtesy of the much thinner Di2 power wires. The brakes are also a bit easier to bleed than L-Twoo.

If most simple install on a budget is what you want then go hunting for SRAM. personally i would go with SRAM Rival AXS shifters and calipers, SRAM Rival AXS front derailleur, SRAM Force AXS D2 rear derailleur, SRAM Force flat top chain, SRAM Force cassette. Crankset of your choice. Alternatively get a SRAM Force AXS XPLR D2 rear derailleur if you prefer a 1x setup and grab a pair of cassettes (10/33 and 10/44) if you need to swap between flat and hilly climbing. a 46t narrow-wide chainring is a nice compromise for most on 1x but could leave you under geared if absolutely hammering or on downhill.

Also, with regard to the brakes, be aware that Tan Tan may or may not provide the flat mount bracket needed for the forks. They didn't provide it for my kid's bike and had to order one separately. They're like $8 so you might just want to grab one just in case because it's a nuisance when you want to get the build done but are stuck without that critical component. it's this adapter.

https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001/p1269971

[gbrnole]

what color is that?

i think Tan Tan give it the complex name of "Red". i'll check with my kid to confirm. it was what they had readily in stock when he ordered his frame and he wasn't overly concerned about color.

[SkylarRnD]

it's the Ryet copy of the Specialized S-Works Romin Evo Mirror. in this particular instance the 3D print is actually very good. I have an actual S-Works Romin Evo Mirror on my SL8, this Ryet copy on my gravel bike and now this one on my kid's bike too. The copy is probably 95% as good as the real thing. The only thing it really lacks are the SWAT mounting holes for accessories.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806722844182.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.33c81802Djj58c&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

95% of the same comfort? I rode my buddies Romin Evo Mirror and it was the most comfortable thing my butt has ever ridden on. If the Ryet is 95% as comfy its a great option!

[gbrnole]

95% of the same comfort? I rode my buddies Romin Evo Mirror and it was the most comfortable thing my butt has ever ridden on. If the Ryet is 95% as comfy its a great option!

it's a good saddle. as i said, i'm using the Ryet version on my gravel bike with no qualms whatsoever. had it on that bike for a bit over a year now and it's holding up well.

[Rallyfocus]

@gbrnole can you confirm which model is the Romin Evo clone in the link please? I'd like to give one a try as well.

Thanks!

[gbrnole]

@gbrnole can you confirm which model is the Romin Evo clone in the link please? I'd like to give one a try as well.

Thanks!

it's the RT03 model

[humbling9430]

Thanks! I picked up the Ryet Aircode, tried to find something similar to my Bontrager Aeolus.

[timjen]

I don't want to read 100 pages here, but as far as I can tell, there is definitely cause for concern with this frame.
I've built several frames myself, but now I'm looking for a new road bike frame. As of now, would you recommend this one?
 Are the fork issues still happening? Is it possible to purchase the frame directly from Aliexpress?

[Sander2177]

You’re right to be cautious — and you’re not the only one asking. Here’s a full summary based on everything so far, so you don’t need to dig through 100+ pages:

⸻

🚨 Fork Issues – Yes, There’s Cause for Concern
   •   There has been one confirmed fork failure, with photographic evidence Page 54.
   •   Another user (Dovh, I believe page 97 there is a video link) reported a potential issue, though his fork didn’t fail.
   •   I personally bought the frame after the first report — so I was fully aware of the risk when I made my decision.

⸻

🔧 Inconsistent Forks Being Supplied
   •   Buyers are receiving forks with different weights — at least two versions seem to be circulating.
   •   Some forks are coming in around 330–350g uncut.
   •   My genuine SL8 fork weighed 375g uncut, and my X68 fork was 399g — possibly a reinforced version.

This variation strongly suggests different molds, construction methods, or layups are being used across batches.

⸻

🛠️ TanTan’s Acknowledgment
   •   TanTan has acknowledged to some buyers that they are now supplying a reinforced fork.
   •   That said, they haven’t officially admitted there’s any issue with the earlier forks — which isn’t surprising.

⸻

🛒 Buying Advice
   •   You can’t buy the frame from Aliexpress
   •   You can still order via TanTan’s website or by contacting them through WhatsApp.
   •   If you do:
   •   Mention that you’ve read about the fork issues
   •   Request the reinforced version
   •   And pay via PayPal Goods & Services or credit card for buyer protection

⸻

Should You Buy It?

Ultimately, that’s a decision you have to make for yourself.

The level of risk someone is willing to accept varies. A fork failure is serious, no question. But considering how popular this frame has been since October 2024, and how many are likely out there, the number of publicly reported failures seems very low.

That said, no frame is truly risk-free — branded or not. Yes, we expect major brands to have tighter QC and more consistent testing — and often they do — but failures still happen. You just don’t hear about them as often because they’re handled quietly. I suspect they happen more than we realise.

Personally, I inspect all my bikes and components regularly, whether they’re branded or open-mold. Carbon is carbon — and everything from forks to bars to wheels is safety-critical.

⸻

Bigger Picture: The Industry

It’s worth noting that there have been calls for more regulation and transparency across the bike industry. Every carbon part on a bike — not just forks — is safety-critical. Testing like ISO 4210 exists, but there’s no universal enforcement or third-party certification standard that’s consistently applied across all manufacturers, especially in the open-mold space.

Until that changes, it’s up to us as riders to stay informed, ask the right questions, and inspect our gear regularly — no matter what logo is on it.

[glepore]

Good summary. However, my fork has no issues, and was "early" production (March). I've even pushed it hard on mixed surfaces without issue. But I'm only 60kg.

There has been one know failure, and one fork by another user that has a compressible area near the brake hose exit (tantan is replacing that fork).

I would agree that the risk is probably slightly greater than with a name brand bike, but not an order of magnitude greater.

[Sander2177]

Good summary. However, my fork has no issues, and was "early" production (March). I've even pushed it hard on mixed surfaces without issue. But I'm only 60kg.

There has been one know failure, and one fork by another user that has a compressible area near the brake hose exit (tantan is replacing that fork).

I would agree that the risk is probably slightly greater than with a name brand bike, but not an order of magnitude greater.

Updated 😂  and corrected

[SkylarRnD]

Great summary Sander!

[timjen]

A really great summary, thank you. In the last 10 years, apart from one original SL7, I've only had Chinese frames, whether MTB, two gravel frames, and two road bike frames, one of which was also from TanTan. I'm fully aware of the general risks and the special cases that can arise during assembly. I was just specifically interested in this model; I'll ask how they solved the fork issue... Thanks a million.

One more question, since you ride both frames, the original and the TanTan. How does the frame perform at very high speeds? My old TanTan frame became very unstable at 65+ compared to the Specialized. I didn't really feel comfortable on descents.

[planet_sammy]

the kid's X68 mostly built. have a few bolts to swap out and new bottle cages to add. rides very nicely based solely on a quick spin to work out the kinks. the L-Twoo eRX v3 works quite nicely though not as straight forward to setup as Shimano or SRAM.

Are the decals under the clearcoat?

[Sander2177]

A really great summary, thank you. In the last 10 years, apart from one original SL7, I've only had Chinese frames, whether MTB, two gravel frames, and two road bike frames, one of which was also from TanTan. I'm fully aware of the general risks and the special cases that can arise during assembly. I was just specifically interested in this model; I'll ask how they solved the fork issue... Thanks a million.

One more question, since you ride both frames, the original and the TanTan. How does the frame perform at very high speeds? My old TanTan frame became very unstable at 65+ compared to the Specialized. I didn't really feel comfortable on descents.

Thanks guys!

It’ll be interesting to see what they come back with regarding the fork change.

As for high-speed performance — the frame feels the same to me. No difference at all, and honestly I wouldn’t expect one, since the X68 is 99% identical to the original. The only real difference I’ve noted is that the genuine frame has a slightly more refined, smoother ride feel — which is probably down to the layup. The shape might be nearly identical, but the carbon layup process is where things start to diverge.

That skinny seatpost definitely helps with comfort, too. It’s not a heavy or ultra-stiff aero frame, so it’s inherently pretty compliant.

Anyway, Patrick says the X68 is dead 😂

The X68 is dead! Long live the X68! 😂