Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[Chiyou]

The lever clamp screws are a pain to reach and I ended up stripping one because I had to torque the hell out of it to keep my levers from slipping on the bars.

Sometimes it's easier to reach the bolts by threading a long hex wrench between the body of the shifter and the hood, more or less as it's shown in this video at the ~1:55 mark with regard to the Microshift lever.
a) Ignore what he says about the access port, it doesn't apply to your situation - I couldn't find a better video.
b) You can roll back the hood so that you can see the bolt head.
c) Random AliExpress link for long T-handle wrench: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832617222948.html

https://youtu.be/geSok-YQN-U?si=KX13YGKtOV6OepEQ&t=115

[HarryFunmaker]

Are you using centerlock to 6holes adapter?
This is the problem...

I'm using standard Campagnolo Ekar centerlock brakes with no adapter. I might try a different lockring. I do think the play has something to do with the rotors, not the bearings in the hub. My lockrings have the little metal washers installed, so there's nothing missing. The rotors have more play than I would have expected before I tighten them up, but I assume that's normal and the lockrings should take care of that.

[Bonus79]

I have a question for those who have already assembled the frame: if I need to use the 160mm disc adapter for the rear brake caliper, what bolt length do you recommend: 32mm or 37mm?
Once threaded through the frame's lower stay, the 32mm bolt protrudes by 5mm....according to Sram's specifications it should protrude between 5-7mm.
I could only use the 37mm bolt for the rear hole because it would be too long for the front and would interfere with the brake caliper.
SRAM doesn't make intermediate bolt sizes.

[Bonus79]

Waiting for the new headset cap and spacers to arrive...

I was already prepared to go a bit crazy (it being my first time), but the hydraulic cable routing was a success on the first try: I just had to thread the cables through the frame and see them come out right through the exit hole, even for the fork...super!
I also really appreciated the way the rear cable was routed above the BB shell, without getting in the way of the bottom bracket insertion.

[gyhu]

I have a question for those who have already assembled the frame: if I need to use the 160mm disc adapter for the rear brake caliper, what bolt length do you recommend: 32mm or 37mm?
Once threaded through the frame's lower stay, the 32mm bolt protrudes by 5mm....according to Sram's specifications it should protrude between 5-7mm.
I could only use the 37mm bolt for the rear hole because it would be too long for the front and would interfere with the brake caliper.
SRAM doesn't make intermediate bolt sizes.

For Shimano I'm using 38 mm bolts.

[Rajmundx]

I have two questions regarding the Deda expander:
   1.   Is it possible to unscrew the bolt from the expander rod? I have a top cap nut from a DEDA handlebar/stem and I would like to use it instead of the magnetic nut that comes with this expander.
   2.   When using this expander, do I need to cut the steerer tube slightly below the stem so that this nut (about 2.5 mm) can be hidden inside?

I am sending the link to the expander I’m referring to.

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/pl/deda-70-a-70-x-23.5-mm-ekspander-sterow-rowerowych/140816532/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=143110873&country=pl&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23048350302&gbraid=0AAAAADvzHL_G_y6EAwOIYm5LCqrvWRChL&gclid=CjwKCAiA2svIBhB-EiwARWDPjgZ3qxpyzSd83Wl57nvEu3_y6ooMJ4JQBu1QfYKf3cWiYxQyv-muNRoCj84QAvD_BwE

[gyhu]

I'm using standard Campagnolo Ekar centerlock brakes with no adapter. I might try a different lockring. I do think the play has something to do with the rotors, not the bearings in the hub. My lockrings have the little metal washers installed, so there's nothing missing. The rotors have more play than I would have expected before I tighten them up, but I assume that's normal and the lockrings should take care of that.

Centerlock disc should have very little to zero play.

[HarryFunmaker]

Ok, so apparently the Ekar rotors are floating and are supposed to move like that. Kind of annoying when you're adjusting the headset, but shouldn't be an issue overall. It is strange how loose they fit before tightening the lock rings. See here for an example (Edit: removed the YT link that didn't work. The video is titled "Campagnolo Ekar disc brake rotors - problems with freeplay on the hub rotor spline" if anyone really wants to see it.)  I checked after tightening the lock ring to be sure and there is no play in the black section where the rotor attaches to the hub, so all is well.

I did some filing on the frame and got rid of my disc rub issue. It didn't take much. Now I'm a happy camper. It feels as good as my old rim brake bike on the climbs and now I'll actually be able to slow down when it rains. It handles well on descents- responsive but not too twitchy. I only have about 5 hours on it so far, but I can't wait to do more.

[Bonus79]

For Shimano I'm using 38 mm bolts.

Did you install the 160mm disc adapter too?
I imagine the screw is protruding from the hole like in the photo I posted, am I right?

[Bonus79]

Ok, so apparently the Ekar rotors are floating and are supposed to move like that. Kind of annoying when you're adjusting the headset, but shouldn't be an issue overall. It is strange how loose they fit before tightening the lock rings. See here for an example (Edit: removed the YT link that didn't work. The video is titled "Campagnolo Ekar disc brake rotors - problems with freeplay on the hub rotor spline" if anyone really wants to see it.)  I checked after tightening the lock ring to be sure and there is no play in the black section where the rotor attaches to the hub, so all is well.

I did some filing on the frame and got rid of my disc rub issue. It didn't take much. Now I'm a happy camper. It feels as good as my old rim brake bike on the climbs and now I'll actually be able to slow down when it rains. It handles well on descents- responsive but not too twitchy. I only have about 5 hours on it so far, but I can't wait to do more.

What part did you have to file exactly?
Thanks

[gyhu]

Did you install the 160mm disc adapter too?
I imagine the screw is protruding from the hole like in the photo I posted, am I right?

Yes. But part of it is for safety pin (pin removed on the Foto). I don't know how it's look by sram but you can put washer under frame 2 mm or something like that.

[HarryFunmaker]

What part did you have to file exactly?
Thanks

I filed the disc mounts on both the front and the rear because there was still a little bit of paint on there. I'm running 140mm rotors front and rear, so the front needed an adapter but the rear didn't. The rear caliper was more prone to misalignment, I assume because it was bolted directly into the frame. Technically I should have faced them with an appropriate tool, but I didn't.

[ZacItaly15]

Try to put some teflon string (plumber application) to minimize the gap.

[Bonus79]

For those who are running the Roval Cockpit. Do you have a nice looking solution? What about those 3D Prints offered for the Spec Allez Sprint in combination with the cockpit??!

Hi, have you found any interesting solutions for the Roval Rapide cockpit?

[Bonus79]

I have a question for those who have already assembled the frame: if I need to use the 160mm disc adapter for the rear brake caliper, what bolt length do you recommend: 32mm or 37mm?
Once threaded through the frame's lower stay, the 32mm bolt protrudes by 5mm....according to Sram's specifications it should protrude between 5-7mm.
I could only use the 37mm bolt for the rear hole because it would be too long for the front and would interfere with the brake caliper.
SRAM doesn't make intermediate bolt sizes.

Can anyone advise me on the best screw length?
Is 32mm or 37mm better?
Thanks