Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[jonathanf2]

Yes. I ended up removing the outer sheath from the batttery enclosure to fit it inside the seat post. Probably not the most weatherproof solution but this wont be a all-weather bike.

I also had to file the hole for the FD cable slightly wider as it was too small for the connector on the cable to fit through.

Other than that no issues with the build up besides those caused by my own incompetence.

When I was trying to figure out the ER9 battery holder in the seat post I explored the option of not putting on the battery sheath. I discovered there was no need to remove the outer sheath since the battery holder fits snuggly in the seat post. You just need buoyant ribbon string tied to the battery if you ever need to pull it out. Without the sheath, there's a risk of damaging the circuitry.

Also I used the mechanical FD hole to route the ER9 FD cable instead. This was easier for me as opposed to trying to get the cable behind the FD hanger. 

[Rajmundx]

Quick test ride round the block now I've got it all together. Was a bit worried the colour was a bit too subdued when I first got the frame but it really pops in the sun!

I have the same colour of frame

[Bonus79]

Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm in a similar boat, I bought the Kocevelo Roval Rapide clone (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808129100479.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.75f41802bLtOng&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa).

I found something that seem promising:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810073079858.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.655b38da9xNfsb&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%21USD%2082.04%21USD%2036.46%21%21USD%2032.46%21%21%21%4021030a6217676681676606626e800d%2112000051698260562%21ct%21US%21727461738%21%211%210%21&_gl=1*1qiad8h*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE3Njc2NjY2MzAuQ2p3S0NBaUEzLTNLQmhCaUVpd0EyeDdGZEluS3JPTUx4YWJTcjZYbXNJQmdjWWtlVTZxSHh2c3VpdThoZHBZeFVDVWNKNlhnOVJtaW1Sb0NWbW9RQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE3Njc2NjY2MzAuQ2p3S0NBaUEzLTNLQmhCaUVpd0EyeDdGZEluS3JPTUx4YWJTcjZYbXNJQmdjWWtlVTZxSHh2c3VpdThoZHBZeFVDVWNKNlhnOVJtaW1Sb0NWbW9RQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_au*NDA5OTQ2OTQ5LjE3NjcyMjM4NTY.*_ga*MTc5MTk1NjU5Mi4xNzY3NjU4MzMw*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*czE3Njc2NjY2MjkkbzIkZzEkdDE3Njc2NjgxNjgkajIxJGwwJGgw&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa


This should work as far as I can tell. Just worried it'll be junk and a waste of money. My backup plan is to try drawing something up in CAD and 3D printing it. I didn't want to resort to that because it'll probably take several iterations to get the shape to match the bars.

There's also this company called MagCAD that makes adapters between the Roval Rapide and other Spec bikes. None of them would fit this frame unfortunately.

Hi, unfortunately for you I really believe that the spacers of the Kocevlo handlebar you purchased are not compatible with the frame.....they have an elongated shape for the SL8 frame and do not go well with the R088 frame (a few pages back you should find some photos of my first Elita One handlebar and related spacers kit which are identical to those of the handlebar you purchased).

I have been stuck with the assembly of the frame for some time, waiting for a new ULLICYC handlebar to arrive....the spacers kit that arrives with the handlebar is identical to the one in the photo you posted and that you would like to build yourself (see attached photo), theoretically it should be fine, but I noticed that the piece through which the hydraulic cables pass has a different finish compared to the other pieces/spacers.....I therefore believe that it is not part of the original kit supplied with the handlebar, but that it was produced and added later.

As soon as I find the time I will try to finish the assembly and then I will let you know....if this kit doesn't work well, I think I will opt for a new handlebar with completely internal passage of the hydraulic cables and a front hole for fixing the cycle computer (always to use the MagCAD support for Bolt V2 that I purchased).

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006286213042.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.673c3696J5NiSK&tblci=GiCC4m7NjPqiKcqZte9zc6nQwymmLm1_jCpQPCF6yretFSCnqXUogey87_rbk6idATC062M&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

[alfiomotrambo]

Hi everyone,
I’ve just installed a Lexon Thin Line handlebar https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006430373452.html and I’m having an issue.

When I pull the brakes, I feel some movement/play near the upper headset bearing, around the top washer/compression ring area. Everything seems tightened correctly, but the movement is still there under braking.


Does anyone know what could cause this kind of play?
Has anyone had the same issue with the Lexon Thin Line, or does anyone have a PDF/manual or installation instructions for this handlebar?

Most importantly, how much space should I leave between the steer fork and the handlebars as pictured? I currently leave 2mm.

Thanks in advance!

[davidnp76]

Hi, I assembled my Spycycle frame, size 58, everything seemed perfect, but when I went out to test it, there's play in the headset. I've tried everything, even removing it completely. When I hold the handlebars at the bottom, they move from side to side. No matter how much I tighten them, nothing works. I even tried using spacers at the top. I bought a Spycycle frame and integrated handlebar, so it should work perfectly. I'm desperate. I have it assembled without the metal race on the headset crown, as I understand it's not necessary. I measured the bearings, and they were exactly the same, so it doesn't matter which one I use at the top or bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Jamoche]

Hi, I assembled my Spycycle frame, size 58, everything seemed perfect, but when I went out to test it, there's play in the headset. I've tried everything, even removing it completely. When I hold the handlebars at the bottom, they move from side to side. No matter how much I tighten them, nothing works. I even tried using spacers at the top. I bought a Spycycle frame and integrated handlebar, so it should work perfectly. I'm desperate. I have it assembled without the metal race on the headset crown, as I understand it's not necessary. I measured the bearings, and they were exactly the same, so it doesn't matter which one I use at the top or bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I noticed those plastic aero spacers that come with the spcycle handlebar don't fit together very well. So when i tightened down the headset i was first compressing the spacers together which meant there wasn't a gap between the top of the steerer tube and the stem. So i had to cut a couple of extra mm off the steerer tube to get everything to pre-load properly.

[davidnp76]

First of all, thanks for replying. I already tried that. I cut the fork more and left a wider gap so it would compress properly, and I tightened it all the way, but it still didn't work. The spacers are tight, but it's like the C-shaped piece isn't fitting properly. I'm fed up with assembling and disassembling it and nothing works...

[Suikerbroer54]

When I was trying to figure out the ER9 battery holder in the seat post I explored the option of not putting on the battery sheath. I discovered there was no need to remove the outer sheath since the battery holder fits snuggly in the seat post. You just need buoyant ribbon string tied to the battery if you ever need to pull it out. Without the sheath, there's a risk of damaging the circuitry.

Also I used the mechanical FD hole to route the ER9 FD cable instead. This was easier for me as opposed to trying to get the cable behind the FD hanger. 

I am currently building my 54 cm R088 with the ER7 groupset. I did place the battery holder in the seat post and it fits nicely (with a ribbon to pull it out agian)
I probably will have to cut some cm of the seatpost in a later stage to get the perfect fit. I did use the the hole behind the the FD hanger as the mechanical hole is too small and I did not want to drill it out. It fits nicely.
Any suggestions on how to close/lock the mechanical hole for the FD?

[jonathanf2]

I am currently building my 54 cm R088 with the ER7 groupset. I did place the battery holder in the seat post and it fits nicely (with a ribbon to pull it out agian)
I probably will have to cut some cm of the seatpost in a later stage to get the perfect fit. I did use the the hole behind the the FD hanger as the mechanical hole is too small and I did not want to drill it out. It fits nicely.
Any suggestions on how to close/lock the mechanical hole for the FD?

I wonder if they changed the battery cable for the newer ERX/9/7 groupsets? My V1 ER9 battery cable fit perfectly through the mechanical FD hole on my R088.

To cover the mechanical FD hole, you could probably source some small rubber grommets, non-permanent glue like rubber cement or just use regular tape. 

[dombo]

did anybody have issue with the machine finish of rear hub hooks/UDH? I received mine today and it looks misaligned. will post images later.

[Bonus79]

Hi, I assembled my Spycycle frame, size 58, everything seemed perfect, but when I went out to test it, there's play in the headset. I've tried everything, even removing it completely. When I hold the handlebars at the bottom, they move from side to side. No matter how much I tighten them, nothing works. I even tried using spacers at the top. I bought a Spycycle frame and integrated handlebar, so it should work perfectly. I'm desperate. I have it assembled without the metal race on the headset crown, as I understand it's not necessary. I measured the bearings, and they were exactly the same, so it doesn't matter which one I use at the top or bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

It seems very strange...since we are talking about the handlebars that come with the frame, so it should match perfectly.

Are you sure the compression C-ring isn't needed? 

Have you tried writing to Spcycle?

[davidnp76]

Hi, I was referring to the aluminum crown of the fork head. On the R088, the lower bearing is mounted directly to the fork. I checked everything again, and the bearings I received are identical: 40x52x7 mm, 36°/45°, both the upper and lower ones. Are yours the same? I'm trying to rule things out because I don't know what else to do. Thanks in advance.

[Tpower59]

Hi, I was referring to the aluminum crown of the fork head. On the R088, the lower bearing is mounted directly to the fork. I checked everything again, and the bearings I received are identical: 40x52x7 mm, 36°/45°, both the upper and lower ones. Are yours the same? I'm trying to rule things out because I don't know what else to do. Thanks in advance.

Lateral play should not happen with the compression ring correctly fitted
Second option : the compression plug is not deep enough compared to the top of the headset.
Remember : top cap torque before torquing headset lateral screws

[alfiomotrambo]

Hi guys, I managed to fix the issue with the Lexon Thin Line handlebars. I simply had to remove the C-Shape ring and replace it with the plastic one (a few mm taller).
The metal C-Shape ring supplied by Lexon is lower and has a different shape than the Spcycle one.

[gyhu]

Hi, I was referring to the aluminum crown of the fork head. On the R088, the lower bearing is mounted directly to the fork. I checked everything again, and the bearings I received are identical: 40x52x7 mm, 36°/45°, both the upper and lower ones. Are yours the same? I'm trying to rule things out because I don't know what else to do. Thanks in advance.

That's interesting. I don't remember dimensions of my bearings (i should have note that). Bonus79 asked Spcycle about bearings:

So these could be ok?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bike-parts-mountain-bike-bicycle-headset-bearing-only-repair-bearings-for-28-6-44mm-30mm-40mm-steel-41-41-8-47-49-52mm?_pos=3&_sid=ca7ecac03&_ss=r

Because I saw that there are some bearings 7mm high, while others 8mm, or the angles change: the ZTTO model of the link has both 45° angles, other models 36°/45°.

Since in the shop where I work we sell SKF bearings, I wanted to know if we have them too.

I asked David (Spcycle) directly for information: R088 uses an outer diameter of 52mm, an inner diameter of 39.8mm, a height of 7mm, and an angle of 45° bearings.

At this point I would say that I am almost ready to place the order, I am just waiting for confirmation from my biomechanic for the frame size and the size for the HB-05 handlebar.

In the end I decided to opt for the raw frame to be painted locally.

David confirmed that he can draw up an Alibaba order for me, in this way I can divide the cost into 3 installments.

So now there is a question. Which one is correct, does it matter? And do each customer receive same set?