Author Topic: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame  (Read 935228 times)

laneweaver

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #660 on: July 15, 2025, 11:23:56 AM »
So will I also need an rd adapter? I'll be installing ult di2.

Thx

My shifting is fine with 105 Di2

laneweaver

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #661 on: July 15, 2025, 11:32:57 AM »
My bike is almost finished, caught a few more snags along the way but now I'm putting the final touches on the bike, just got the shifters positioned and aligned with only the handlebar tape left now.

I did a little shakedown yesterday and for the most part everything felt pretty good with one exception. I noticed there was a creaking sound coming from the seat post area and after trying and failing to get saddle angle to point down a little more, I took apart the saddle clamp and looked up the sl8 assembly guide -- apparently I'm missing a cradle washer, part E. Is anyone else missing this part? I can imagine myself losing this part while disassembling the clamp but I'd like to think I'd notice it missing (apparently not).

Anyway, I just ordered a replacement Specialized clamp set with all the hardware so I can also replace everything including the mild steel bolts that were included.

The part number is S204900004 for anyone wondering.
« Last Edit: July 15, 2025, 12:05:31 PM by laneweaver »

MarMirZ990

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #662 on: July 15, 2025, 03:57:46 PM »
No part on the clamp was missing on my seat post. I replaced all the bolts with Titanium bolts, just for fun. Is there also a Titanium version of part C?

I just passed the 600 km mark on my R088 and I am very satisfied so far. Did a 110 km „sportive“ ride on Sunday and hit PRs all the way. This weekend I will take the R088 to the 24h Nürburgring.

laneweaver

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #663 on: July 15, 2025, 09:40:27 PM »
No part on the clamp was missing on my seat post. I replaced all the bolts with Titanium bolts, just for fun. Is there also a Titanium version of part C?

Thanks for confirming. And it looks like there's at least one company making it: link

Rajmundx

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #664 on: July 16, 2025, 02:02:29 AM »
No part on the clamp was missing on my seat post. I replaced all the bolts with Titanium bolts, just for fun. Is there also a Titanium version of part C?

I just passed the 600 km mark on my R088 and I am very satisfied so far. Did a 110 km „sportive“ ride on Sunday and hit PRs all the way. This weekend I will take the R088 to the 24h Nürburgring.

Do you have photos of your bike?

My frame is already send. The colour looks nice on photos.

jonathanf2

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #665 on: July 16, 2025, 03:29:44 PM »
Last week I did a group ride with lots of climbing and some good flat sections. The section where the R088 handled only average was on the downhill descent with lots of switchback curves. I was attacking the downhill pretty hard, but I had to ease off on the sharp turns. I have my bike setup somewhat relaxed for distance and climbing, but my older TFSA frame has similar geometry, was slammed and had similar cornering. My other carbon road bike with higher seat stays and fatter tubes (at the expense of weight) handles fast switchbacks much better.

I'm just curious if anyone else notices this when descending fast mountain passes going between the 40-60km plus range? I'm wondering if this is more an issue with Tarmac style geometry?

Quoting myself! I'm placing my saddle further back to shift the center of gravity. Hopefully that should make fast corning a bit less sketchy. I'm hesitant to go aggressive with this frame with slammed/longer stem, because it's fairly comfortable the way I have it currently setup.

Jamoke Bloke

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #666 on: July 17, 2025, 01:16:05 PM »
Would anyone be willing to confirm the diameter of the steerer tube? Mechanic said that they’re skeptical it’s truly 1.5” top and bottom.

Thanks

laneweaver

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #667 on: July 17, 2025, 11:16:18 PM »
I don't have the exact measurements, but it's not -- the bottom of the steerer tube flares out to the internal diameter of the headset bearings so as to seat tightly against it and the bottom of the head tube.

Jamoke Bloke

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #668 on: July 18, 2025, 08:30:34 AM »
I don't have the exact measurements, but it's not -- the bottom of the steerer tube flares out to the internal diameter of the headset bearings so as to seat tightly against it and the bottom of the head tube.

Did you use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" stem?

laneweaver

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #669 on: July 18, 2025, 09:29:36 AM »
Did you use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" stem?

1 1/8" stem

Yonekin

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #670 on: July 18, 2025, 09:38:23 AM »
Hi guys,
I'm currently researching for my first road bike.

I’ve now landed here thinking about buying the SP-R088:

Here are the specs I'm currently looking at:

LTWOO RX/R9 2x12s/2x11s Groupset
💶 136 €
ZTTO Ultimate 11s Cassette (11–30T)
💶 73 €
RIRO Carbon Crankset (50-34T, BSA)
💶 114 €
ZTTO BSA30 Ceramic Bottom Bracket
💶 18 €
ONIRII PD-06 Carbon Pedals
💶 46 €
Carbon Disc Wheelset (ca. 50mm)
💶 ca. 340 €
Spcycle SP-R088 Carbon Frame (Green metallic, XL?)
💶 530 €

Stem and handlebars: some alu, not integrated for now to be able to adjust.
Nothing concrete yet, open for recommendations ;)

Other: Includes internal routing tool, 3m housing, 2 bar tapes, 2 bottle cages, 160mm brake rotors
💶 40 €

Please note that the prices are not accurate since Ali's pricing is confusing.

Overall, I'm looking at around 1200€ tested on Ali with discount codes etc.

I have two main questions:

What size frame should I buy? (189cm, monkey index slightly positive)

What wheelset should I get?
Since Elite Wheels (e.g., ENT Discs) have like 3 months delivery, and I'm hoping to be a little faster than that — more like late August.

I'm happy to take any other advice.

Greetings from Germany

P.S. I have read about the challenges with the cable routing — looking forward to this challenge!
P.P.S. My build was inspired by Trace Velo's OG evkin cf25 build
« Last Edit: July 18, 2025, 10:03:47 AM by Yonekin »

jonathanf2

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #671 on: July 18, 2025, 11:12:02 AM »
Hi guys,
I'm currently researching for my first road bike.

I’ve now landed here thinking about buying the SP-R088:

I'm happy to take any other advice.

Greetings from Germany

P.S. I have read about the challenges with the cable routing — looking forward to this challenge!
P.P.S. My build was inspired by Trace Velo's OG evkin cf25 build

Even though the R088 has mechanical cable routing it will be challenging. I would route all mechanical cables and hydraulic brakes first, before installing the bottom bracket. You'll need that BB space opening to fish the cable through. Also if you go with a regular bar setup with no internal routing, that should make things a bit easier. Even so, you'll still need to cut cables to size and you won't have much leeway if you decide to go with integrated bars in the future. In fact if you do go integrated later on, there's a chance you might have to redo the cable lines because they could be too short.

Trace Velo loves the LTwoo R9, but I'm not the biggest fan. First he never mentions what a PITA is to access the clamping bolts on LTwoo shifters. Also if you ever need to replace the shift cable, it's a very convoluted process compared to Shimano mechanical shifters. You can find Shimano 105/Ultegra components for good prices on AliEx if you shop around. It'll cost slightly more, but the ease of installation is so much better. If you go LTwoo, I'd opt for electronic. I've worked on both LTwoo and Shimano mechanical, modern Shimano mechanical is so much better to work on especially for a first build. Though I actually like LTwoo brake calipers. Despite the use of adapter plates, I find they have more leeway for adjust compared to Shimano's standard flat mount setup.

Anyways good luck!

Yonekin

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #672 on: July 18, 2025, 11:49:49 AM »
Even though the R088 has mechanical cable routing it will be challenging. I would route all mechanical cables and hydraulic brakes first, before installing the bottom bracket. You'll need that BB space opening to fish the cable through. Also if you go with a regular bar setup with no internal routing, that should make things a bit easier. Even so, you'll still need to cut cables to size and you won't have much leeway if you decide to go with integrated bars in the future. In fact if you do go integrated later on, there's a chance you might have to redo the cable lines because they could be too short.

Trace Velo loves the LTwoo R9, but I'm not the biggest fan. First he never mentions what a PITA is to access the clamping bolts on LTwoo shifters. Also if you ever need to replace the shift cable, it's a very convoluted process compared to Shimano mechanical shifters. You can find Shimano 105/Ultegra components for good prices on AliEx if you shop around. It'll cost slightly more, but the ease of installation is so much better. If you go LTwoo, I'd opt for electronic. I've worked on both LTwoo and Shimano mechanical, modern Shimano mechanical is so much better to work on especially for a first build. Though I actually like LTwoo brake calipers. Despite the use of adapter plates, I find they have more leeway for adjust compared to Shimano's standard flat mount setup.

Anyways good luck!

Ohh Man i thought I had at least these things sorted out. Im not sure if I want that hussle, if I really like it (meaning the sport cycling, for now it is just a fun hobby project) I might upgrade to to a wireless shifter.

I also thought about the LTWOO di set but cut it as I wanted to keep the investment relatively low since im just starting and are not planning to go more than once or twice a week in the best case.

I probably like the building more than the actual cycling xD Did yesterday 40km on a Nextbike as part of a gag Triathlon with a buddy. I really suffered.

Can you maybe give me your opinion on my Wheelset problem.

Thank for your advice ;)




jonathanf2

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #673 on: July 18, 2025, 12:22:22 PM »
I probably like the building more than the actual cycling xD Did yesterday 40km on a Nextbike as part of a gag Triathlon with a buddy. I really suffered.

Can you maybe give me your opinion on my Wheelset problem.

Thank for your advice ;)

I would rate the R088 a moderate for bike building in terms of difficulty and that's with electronic! With full cabling it's definitely more challenging. I've build a bunch of different frames and I encounter problems on each and every build. Even if you think you figured things out, the next frame might have issues you've never accounted for.

In terms of wheels, you can't really go wrong with an Elite Wheelset. They do have good customer service and I've never had issues with their wheels (other than the big logo). Though I tend to prefer DT Swiss style ratchet hubs. They're easier to service and repair in the long run. I believe the ENT wheels use a 4 pawl freehub.

laneweaver

Re: Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame
« Reply #674 on: July 20, 2025, 01:12:53 AM »
Here are some photos from my recent rides, did about 40 miles of riding so far this week as part of some shakedown rides. I've run into a few issues, but I've either resolved them or they're being resolved -- with one small exception.

Starting off with the easiest issue, the stem preload was a little loose after ~20 miles or so of riding. I only noticed this when slamming on the brakes as I was arriving home, anyway, that was easily resolved. I did use a torque wrench this time to get a sense of how much torque is being applied this time, and yeah, only about ~2 Nm of torque was necessary to remove all play, and then another 1/8th of a turn for some safety margin. I'm keeping an eye on this, and I have a longer stem plug coming for some extra insurance.

The second issue I wrote about in my previous post, I'm missing the wedge washer that goes between the seat post and rear bolt so I'm unable to tighten that bolt with any confidence that it won't destroy the seat post. So I've resorted to tightening that bolt juuuust tight enough so as to maintain tension on the saddle rails. Anyway, this has led to my seat slipping slightly back, leading to a stretched out position and numb hands during the ride. The replacement SL8 seat clamp is coming Monday though, so this should be resolved soon.

The third issue was that I experienced a chain drop when shifting from the small ring to the big ring. My carbon crank took a nice scrape from that, but thankfully I realized the chain was falling off pretty quick and stopped immediately, with no apparent damage to the frame or other components.

This last issue is the result of a combination of a few factors: (1) synchro-shift on Di2 being too eager to over-shift to shift into the big ring, in addition to the fact that I was shifting under load while climbing, (2) my misunderstanding of the front derailleur alignment for 105 Di2, which follows a different system of setting limits from mechanical and ultegra/DA Di2, and (3) apparently the front derailleur hanger doesn't allow for the front-derailleur to be mounted tight with a slight toe-out (which is how 105 Di2 is aligned) -- it's mounted with a very slight toe-in, and there's no way to totally straighten the derailleur unless I was able to mount the FD further inboard somehow.

I've mitigated factors 1 and 2 by adjusting the synchro-shift logic so as to only shift 1 gear instead of 2, and re-aligning the front-derailleur to the best of my ability. Factor 3 will be a massive pain to resolve, as I'm not even sure there's a bulletproof way to fix it. Maybe a soft shim / PPF to allow the mount to tilt slightly more in the front? Anyway, I believe I've mitigated the issue mostly by getting the alignment as best I could with the FD toeing out just the slightest and getting the micro-adjustments FD and RD perfect.

Anyway, on to the good news -- the bike rides super quick, much quicker than my old chromoly steel bike, which this build has at least 10 lbs on. I'm setting new PRs with massive deltas on all of my local climbs, which is so satisfying. I'm certainly the limiting factor for this frame, it goes super quick. At the same time, the ride feels relatively dampened, so I will say it doesn't feel as "lively" as I thought it would, being such a light frame, I guess there could be some flex in the frame or it could be my choice of tires, which I know isn't the best in terms of rolling resistance. I'm happy with that, though, as I want a light, comfortable endurance-style whip to put down more miles this riding season. And on today's 20 mile ride, there were literally zero surprises with the bike :) I'm absolutely smitten with the build and can't wait to take it out again.