BXT 135 build

[00Garza]

Was finally ready to get this thing built up, but I'm in a dilemma.
New sram axs dropped which means wild discounts on 12s axs groups. I can get a full AXS force group for a pretty good deal and try to sell off the Ltwoo build to offset some costs.

I don't like being locked into the 12s sram world, but reliability, serviceability, and warranty is an obvious benefit.

I like Ltwoo and where they're headed as a company. Part of me wants to keep this a true chiner build with eGR.

What do you guys think?

[jonathanf2]

Was finally ready to get this thing built up, but I'm in a dilemma.
New sram axs dropped which means wild discounts on 12s axs groups. I can get a full AXS force group for a pretty good deal and try to sell off the Ltwoo build to offset some costs.

I don't like being locked into the 12s sram world, but reliability, serviceability, and warranty is an obvious benefit.

I like Ltwoo and where they're headed as a company. Part of me wants to keep this a true chiner build with eGR.

What do you guys think?

If you sell your eGR groupset, I might be interested in buying it! 

[00Garza]

If you sell your eGR groupset, I might be interested in buying it! 

Message me a price point you’re thinking and let’s make a deal!

[00Garza]

What would you be paying and for what exactly? In Europe, Sram is expensive AF, so i'm curious.
I'd also say, if it's not broken, dont fix it, and so, use the ltwoo group you have, but i dont have all the details.

Full force axs group with quarq powermeter. $900

[00Garza]

Finally got it built up. Got home from the shop and realized two things. Front brake rotor is rubbing a bit and got a gap under cone spacer.

Any thoughts on what’s causing that gap? Is this a simple solution I can figure out at home or just take back to the shop?

[Ludo]

Top headset beating to think so is the C- Ring

[jonathanf2]

Finally got it built up. Got home from the shop and realized two things. Front brake rotor is rubbing a bit and got a gap under cone spacer.

Any thoughts on what’s causing that gap? Is this a simple solution I can figure out at home or just take back to the shop?

Looks like the shop didn't properly compress the c-ring. It's a simple fix. I'd loosen the top cap and stem bolts and push it in more. I'd be more worried they didn't pay attention on other details during the build. Sometimes these Chinese frames/components require a bit of finessing that some bike mechanics can't wrap their brain around. I ride with bike shop guys. As far as they're concerned, my Chinese components are from a different dimension!

[00Garza]

I used the c-ring that came with the ryet handlebars but should've checked if it was the exact same dimensionsas the one that came with the frame. That may be a factor.
Could it also be the fork not cut to proper length?

The headset bearings make audible crunch sounds with turning of the bars. My go to mechanic who usually builds up my chinese projects as retired for a season. Might try a different shop.

[Ludo]

I am also suprised to see the top bearing sticking up from the frame. For sure I would try a different Cring

[jonathanf2]

I used the c-ring that came with the ryet handlebars but should've checked if it was the exact same dimensions. That may be a factor.
Could it also be the fork not cut to proper length?

The headset bearings make audible crunch sounds with turning of the bars. My go to mechanic who usually builds up my chinese projects as retired for a season. Might try a different shop.

Did you still have the stock C ring for the frame? I'd try that. I'm surprised the shop let you take the bike without checking. That gap is huge!

[00Garza]

Did you still have the stock C ring for the frame? I'd try that. I'm surprised the shop let you take the bike without checking. That gap is huge!

I do. I’ll be taking back to the shop today.

[00Garza]

LBS is trying to convince me that the gap under the cone spacer is supposed to be there because its missing a dust cover. I insisted the cone spacer is supposed to sit flush with minimal gap.
I also pointed out the bearing is not seated correctly as seen in the pic. Is it possible I was sent the wrong bearing for the headset?

And this is why I was so hesitant to go fully internal. Now it has to all be taken apart just to figure it out.

[Ludo]

Cring can be remove without taking everything out. Then you can file it down to get the tickness you want to close the gap, i had to do it for my gravel too. It takes an hour or two but it’s doable.

[jonathanf2]

And this is why I was so hesitant to go fully internal. Now it has to all be taken apart just to figure it out.

The C-ring can easily be removed. I'd go with Ludo's recommendation and file it down slightly.

On a side note, there's nothing wrong with internally routed cables, but I went with the separate bar & stem option on my internal frames and uses a headset cover with cable holes. The cover come with rubber seal and cable grommets for water sealing. I can easily size down my stem height without hassle. Something to consider in the future.

[00Garza]

Cring can be remove without taking everything out. Then you can file it down to get the tickness you want to close the gap, i had to do it for my gravel too. It takes an hour or two but it’s doable.

What part of the ring did you file down? Contemplating trying this or trying with another bar.