Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[NB87]

Hello all,
I’m in the building process and keep referring back to this forum for tips & tricks, very useful !!
However I seem to have an issue with the expander plug slipping out of the steerer tube when torquing up the top cap.
The plug is done up to 10Nm but comes out during the tightening of the top cap well before reaching 6Nm.
I read a lot about slipping seat posts but anyone having the same problem or knows how to prevent it?
Thanks!

Use plenty of carbon paste around the expander plug to help create more friction. Then tighten to 10nm. Then tighten the topcap until there's no play. No torque meter needed with that last step

[jstrawks]

Use plenty of carbon paste around the expander plug to help create more friction. Then tighten to 10nm. Then tighten the topcap until there's no play. No torque meter needed with that last step

Just a couple of data points. I've never used carbon paste on an expander plug. I've never needed to. Also, "until there's no play" is correct, but "no play" needs to be addressed in an assertive manner. Make sure it's really no play when you lock the front brake and rock the bike and forth with enough weight on the bars so that the front wheel doesn't easily slide, and really make sure that there is really no play in headset in that scenario.

[MarioCanario]

Use plenty of carbon paste around the expander plug to help create more friction. Then tighten to 10nm. Then tighten the topcap until there's no play. No torque meter needed with that last step

I'd also mechanically check the expander plug & grease it if necessary

[POTOOOOOOOO]

6nm for a bearing cap is idiotic. It doesn’t need to be anywhere near that tight.

As mentioned above. So long as there is no play when the front brake is applied, it’s tight enough. Anymore than that just prematurely kills the bearings.

[Francy68]

My experience after a few rides:

- seat post did slip, applied more carbon paste and it slipped again. Cleaned the seatpots , put a healthy amount of paste and 2 strips of plastic frame protection tape on the front and back of the seatpost where the clamp engages and it seems the issues is fixed. As other stated you can use any other slightly thick and tacky plastic.
 - the LC integrated handlebars have a very short reach. If your position is dialed for a more traditional bar, order one with a 1cm longer stem. Also the bar drop is small, pretty easy to stay for a long time in the drops.

  I have the same problem of a slipping seat post, I wanted to know which kind of strip of plastic frame did you use. Thank you

[Francy68]

Hi, I bought the BC11 bottle cage together with the frame from LightCarbon. My bottle keeps falling out on small bumps. It seems very loose and does not hold the bottle. Has anyone else had this problem? Any solution? Thanks.

[MarioCanario]

Hi, I bought the BC11 bottle cage together with the frame from LightCarbon. My bottle keeps falling out on small bumps. It seems very loose and does not hold the bottle. Has anyone else had this problem? Any solution? Thanks.

The BC11 is very loose and doesnt have enough tension for most bottles. Only solution i found is to use the 800ml van rysel bottles i had lying around. Is a bit thicker and fits exactly. So far never fell out even on bunny hops. Hope it stays that way

[jstrawks]

6nm for a bearing cap is idiotic. It doesn’t need to be anywhere near that tight.

As mentioned above. So long as there is no play when the front brake is applied, it’s tight enough. Anymore than that just prematurely kills the bearings.

And I hope it goes without saying that one preloads the headset bearing with the stem bolts loose, only tightening them after the top cap bolt is set.

[Picograms]

  I have the same problem of a slipping seat post, I wanted to know which kind of strip of plastic frame did you use. Thank you

I had some generic frame protectors form Aliexpress like the ones bellow, nothing special.
You don't even need adhesive strips of plastic, you can use any piece that is not super thin (scotch tape is to thin and flimsy in my opinion)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009425564829.html

Try to clean the inside of the frame and seatpost  with some alcohol before applying the carbon paste. After tightening the clamp, do a short 5 min ride or try to move the seatpost to simulate riding on int and check if is still tight. A small amount pf play might arise after it "settles"   Also don't overtighten the clamp even if seems appealing!! I see LC recomended to some users to go to 10Nm, i wouldnt go further then that.
I've done mine by hand and is probably around 6-8Nm.

[RiP]

[HELP REQUEST]

Hi there, everyone.

I have a situation with my build, where I can't seem to locate the stem screws for the handlebar combo. As my frame already arrived a couple of months ago, I'm not sure if those screws weren't sent by LC by mistake or if I've misplaced them in the meantime.

I already contacted LC, who were prompt to imediatly send replacement screws by DHL expedited shipping (free of charge). The thing is, as I'm in Portugal/European Union, and from past experiences with DHL over here, they will charge me a lot of money just for handling process at Customs (+fees) upon arrival. I'm not in a hurry to finish my build, as I'm still waiting for other parts, I can wait for the screws, and by doing that, try to save some money by avoiding the DHL international shipping straight from China.

So, I'm kindly requesting the help of a good samaritan over here, based in the European Union (preferably in the South of Europe, like Portugal, Spain, Italy or France), that is about to get his frame shipped from LC, where I'd request them to send my screws along with his frame, and upon receiving it, he would be willing to send the screws to my address using a regular postal service. And of course, I'll cover the required expenses (via Paypal, Revolut or regular bank transfer).

If you think you can help me, please send PM.

Thanks in advance!

[UT801]

The BC11 is very loose and doesnt have enough tension for most bottles. Only solution i found is to use the 800ml van rysel bottles i had lying around. Is a bit thicker and fits exactly. So far never fell out even on bunny hops. Hope it stays that way

Thanks for the heads-up on the BC11 cage.  I changed my order to the older BC205 style. 

[Schneedolf]

My frame arrived yesterday, packaging fine as I expected.

I like the raw carbon finish, very pretty.

[jstrawks]

My frame arrived yesterday, packaging fine as I expected.

I like the raw carbon finish, very pretty.

Nice. That looks like the older seatpost with texturing only on the leading edge, yes?

[Schneedolf]

yes, i will update you after i've tried it out with my ~89kg.

[smu86]

Hello everyone,

First of all, thanks to all of you — I’ve learned a lot from the information shared in this thread, and it really helped me make my decision. That’s also why I finally decided to create an account here.

At first, I was aiming for the LCG071-D frame, but since I won’t be running 50-622 tires, I later noticed that the LCR018 can take up to 38 mm, which is more than enough for me. If I ever want to go with 50-622, I’ll just take my MTB instead.

So yesterday I ordered an LCR018-D in size 56. I’m 182 cm tall with a 91 cm inseam — yes, long legs and a short torso, part of the freakshow cabinet. A bike fit suggested a size 56, same as my current Kona Roadhouse.
And a zero offset post and 100 /380 bar

I went for matte black without logos, mainly because I couldn’t find a color I really liked in the LC charts. Not sure yet if I’ll keep it matte black or paint it myself, but I’ve got plenty of time to decide while the frame is being built. Wendy mentioned production will take about 30–45 days. I requested DPD shipping so that all taxes and fees are prepaid.

I also asked for a 51 mm offset fork instead of the 47 mm, hoping it will make the ride feel a bit more stable, since I’m more used to the slacker head angles of MTBs. If it turns out not to be ideal, I can always order a 47 mm fork later on.

As for components: I already have a set of SRAM Force D1 AXS shifters, so those will go on the bars. For wheels I’ll be using a NOVATEC R4 DISC CL-PRO-XDR-Gen5 set. Still undecided between a 1x or 2x drivetrain — top speed isn’t really a priority, and there’s not much climbing here in the Netherlands. I guess it depends on what good deals come along.

To be continued!

hey there, i have basically the same measurements. are you happy with the size or do you wish you would have gotten a 54?
why did you go for the larger fork offset? and for what stem length did you go?
anyone else advice on sizing and fork offset for me?  182cm, 90/91cm inseam height.
used to ride a 2023 supersix evo in size 56, which felt a little too big, sadly got stolen end of last yeat.
really want to go more endurance-bike this time.

thank you so much guys