Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[kjerts]

Received my replacement seat post. DHL wanted the same amount for VAT and handling as the complete frame kit, but that was closer to correct this time 😅

Not mounted yet, but finish looks good with full texture.

[hoolabalooza]

Am I understanding the instructions correctly that you basically have to cut the fork 8mm below the top of the stem (4mm plug + 4-5mm space on top)?

[Schneedolf]

I also contacted Lightcarbon again to find out how much a replacement tru axle set would cost and also a seatpost.

At the moment, seatpost ist 55$ (offset or no offset) and axles are 10$/set.

As I contacted them with problems concerning the axles (nothin major, but I wanted some replacement for the future), they threw in the axles for free when I order a seatpost.

I did order a new seatpost, let's see if I also get the "new version".

UPDATE:You will always get the "new" seatpost now, so (although I had no slipping seatpost after the first ride) this topic should be resolved. This is really good to hear and shows that they are professionals who listen and act.

[biggiebaksteen]

I finished my build a month ago. Wanted to share some point with you after a couple of rides.

- my seatpost kept slipping. Contacted Wendy, she told me there is a new version of the seatpost. She is getting one ready for shipment. Good service!

- I torqued my seatpost to 10NM and used more carbonfiber paste. It didn't slip anymore, but my seatpost is damaged due the slipping.

- I build my bike up with a mechanical shimano 105. It works but the frame is designed for electrical groupsets if you ask me. It took me a lot of time to funnel all the cables thru. Because i have a lot more cables running thru the frame, i can't use the frame bag because of this.

For the rest i am loving this bike so far. Quality is excellent and i have no problems what so ever!

[ncf]

I'm running mechanical shifting as well and needed to run cable housing fully to the derailleurs as their is no means for keeping tension otherwise. Internal cable routing kit and having access to the downtube through the storage door made it less maddening, but still had some trouble with passing through the chain stay for the rear shift cable. Seems to be very little space internally where the sections are joined. On a positive my shifting is smoother due to the full cable runs. The fork doesn't have an internal channel for the brake cable, so that was annoying to have to fish through what seems to a bit of a sharp angle/blocked path to get down the leg of the fork.

I love the internal storage and fortunately have had no issues with the door or door latch (yet?). my door does have a small amount of foam along the bottom U part of the door facing the frame. I have a cloth covered chain lock push down towards he bottom bracket and a resealable thick plastic bag with pump, tools and spare tube pushed up towards the headtube. Very slick. The internal cables don't seem to have an issue with this. If anything it hold them in place so they aren't moving around as much. Oh and a full size 4mm allen key because the seat clamps are terrible. I've probably pushed the torque too far as I had the seat angle slip each of my first two ride within a couple miles. Has been good since with a bit over 100 miles in.

Original design seat post does not seem to have slipped with 9nm and no carbon paster (i forgot and since it seems god I don't want to mess with it.)

Overall bike seems great and rides great. They did ship without sending me picks that were agreed on. And my original shipping was delayed about a month when they were out of the size bars I wanted. The bare carbon with gloss clearcoat still seems weird to show very little of the "carbon weave" look that it seems most folks associate with carbon fiber. I had seen other people's pics, but I guess I was still expecting more. Inside the storage door in the downtube looks amazing. I guess that outside layer is either a very fine mesh or generous amounts of black filler or epoxy to smooth out the frame? Still cool and shimmery and looks every bit like too much bike for me

[biggiebaksteen]

I'm running mechanical shifting as well and needed to run cable housing fully to the derailleurs as their is no means for keeping tension otherwise. Internal cable routing kit and having access to the downtube through the storage door made it less maddening, but still had some trouble with passing through the chain stay for the rear shift cable. Seems to be very little space internally where the sections are joined. On a positive my shifting is smoother due to the full cable runs. The fork doesn't have an internal channel for the brake cable, so that was annoying to have to fish through what seems to a bit of a sharp angle/blocked path to get down the leg of the fork.

I love the internal storage and fortunately have had no issues with the door or door latch (yet?). my door does have a small amount of foam along the bottom U part of the door facing the frame. I have a cloth covered chain lock push down towards he bottom bracket and a resealable thick plastic bag with pump, tools and spare tube pushed up towards the headtube. Very slick. The internal cables don't seem to have an issue with this. If anything it hold them in place so they aren't moving around as much. Oh and a full size 4mm allen key because the seat clamps are terrible. I've probably pushed the torque too far as I had the seat angle slip each of my first two ride within a couple miles. Has been good since with a bit over 100 miles in.

Original design seat post does not seem to have slipped with 9nm and no carbon paster (i forgot and since it seems god I don't want to mess with it.)

Overall bike seems great and rides great. They did ship without sending me picks that were agreed on. And my original shipping was delayed about a month when they were out of the size bars I wanted. The bare carbon with gloss clearcoat still seems weird to show very little of the "carbon weave" look that it seems most folks associate with carbon fiber. I had seen other people's pics, but I guess I was still expecting more. Inside the storage door in the downtube looks amazing. I guess that outside layer is either a very fine mesh or generous amounts of black filler or epoxy to smooth out the frame? Still cool and shimmery and looks every bit like too much bike for me

Yeah im running a full cable housing as well! Found out after i put all the cables through the frame so i had to redo all of it, wich was shit haha

[Kwerlo]

Am I understanding the instructions correctly that you basically have to cut the fork 8mm below the top of the stem (4mm plug + 4-5mm space on top)?

I tink it's like 5-6 mm all together... but I don't have the instruction right here... still I wanted to respond to your (quite important) question...

[chubv]

Hi guys!

Today I asked Carol from LC to make sure I receive the new version of the seatpost. She sent me the following information.

Previously, only the rear side had anti-slip granular coating. We now apply it full circle for much better friction.
The frame seat tube inner diameter has been slightly reduced for a tighter fit.
These changes effectively solve seatpost slipping.
Your frame will be with latest version. Please be assured.
 

[bsharp77]

Hi guys!

Today I asked Carol from LC to make sure I receive the new version of the seatpost. She sent me the following information.

Previously, only the rear side had anti-slip granular coating. We now apply it full circle for much better friction.
The frame seat tube inner diameter has been slightly reduced for a tighter fit.
These changes effectively solve seatpost slipping.
Your frame will be with latest version. Please be assured.

Great to see that they are actively taking steps to correct problems with initial designs, and the storage lid is hopefully an easy fix with the v2 design.
Having to make structural changes to the seat tube diameter to stop slip is slightly more annoying as an early adpoter - other than asking for the new seatpost with extra grip, I guess we are stuck with what we have.
With the state of the roads at the minute, seatpost slip is going to be a bigger issue than ever. I wish there were more frames with an ISP.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Great to see that they are actively taking steps to correct problems with initial designs, and the storage lid is hopefully an easy fix with the v2 design.
Having to make structural changes to the seat tube diameter to stop slip is slightly more annoying as an early adpoter - other than asking for the new seatpost with extra grip, I guess we are stuck with what we have.
With the state of the roads at the minute, seatpost slip is going to be a bigger issue than ever. I wish there were more frames with an ISP.

Do you use the inline post or -15?

[bsharp77]

Do you use the inline post or -15?

Inline post.
I get slow slippage - maybe 5mm over 10 rides - not a disaster, but just annoying and always in the back of my mind, to the point where if I see a rough patch of road I tend to stand.
I'd like to ask Carol about getting the newer seat post with extra grip and perhaps trying Silcas "sticky" carbon grip paste.

[alfiomotrambo]

If it’s slipping even at proper torque it might just be slightly off tolerances between the post and the seat tube.

I had the same issue and what worked for me was adding a very thin plastic shim between the seatpost and the frame. Just enough to take up the tiny gap and increase friction.

Used something like this https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007545404263.html

Not the most “pro” solution but it’s cheap and it actually fixed the slipping without having to overtighten the clamp.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Inline post.
I get slow slippage - maybe 5mm over 10 rides - not a disaster, but just annoying and always in the back of my mind, to the point where if I see a rough patch of road I tend to stand.
I'd like to ask Carol about getting the newer seat post with extra grip and perhaps trying Silcas "sticky" carbon grip paste.

Ah, ok.
I ordered an inline and a -15, but I now know I won’t be using the -15 so it’s available.

On previous frames when I’ve encountered slipping, I just spray the lower of the seat post with a few coats of clear coat to evenly add some more thickness.

It usually improves the situation

[bsharp77]

Ah thank you for the offer Steve!

Interesting point about using a spray on clear coat to increase thickness  - I was wondering if there would be any sort of anti slip / grip spray on that might work.

I see one from Plastikote - its clear, so might be worth a punt:
https://plasti-kote.co.uk/trade/trade/functional/trade-anti-slip-paint-400-ml

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Ah thank you for the offer Steve!

Interesting point about using a spray on clear coat to increase thickness  - I was wondering if there would be any sort of anti slip / grip spray on that might work.

I see one from Plastikote - its clear, so might be worth a punt:
https://plasti-kote.co.uk/trade/trade/functional/trade-anti-slip-paint-400-ml

There are a few anti slip paints available. I’ve not tried any but I’m sure they would work. It depends what they use for texture.
You could just add something to a coat of clear.