Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[rosteven]

Your messages are starting to scare me, haha. I'm starting to have second thoughts about getting the Elves Mori Aerox x).

Any chance that you could still cancel your order and get the Elves, it could mean one less frame order in front of mine - lol.

[Aerodurance]

I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats 
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.

I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!


I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.

Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.

[2wheeledbarbie]

3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!

you just tuck it in.  no issues with mine

[DrRoB]

I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats 
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.

I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!


I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.

Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.

Hi community, I’m afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.

After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.

It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?

Did shortening the seatpost help?

[Gbodorr]

I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats 
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.

I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!


I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.

Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.

How come you decided to cut your seat post? Judging by your build photo, your seatpost is not really that far in. How far in is it now?

[chaseme]

I am absolutely loving this build. Fantastic frame and bars from LC.

[Aerodurance]

How come you decided to cut your seat post? Judging by your build photo, your seatpost is not really that far in. How far in is it now?

My seat post is nearly fully inserted, up until the anti slip coating stops.
Its squishing the DI2 cables unnecessarrily.
I meassured the distance were the seat post says "minimum insert". Thats 103mm.
I cut of 60mm and still have insertion of lots over 100mm.

Other people here reported a clicking sound whilst higher loads. I had the same on the first ride.
I hope the clicking is away now. Didn´t ride today.

I also contacted the suppliper for seat torque. They say 9-10Nm.
Unfortunately I have now all torques besides the Garmin-Holder for the handle bar. Anyone knows ?
I guess around 3-4Nm.

I run the cheap bottom bracket from LC.
If i replace it, i will go for the Rotor one i guess. Unfortunately shimano doesn´t do one.
I would trust shimano and pay for it, but there is none.

[GreyRacer]

Hi community, I’m afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.

After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.

It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?

Did shortening the seatpost help?

Had same issue with squeking on another bike. Went away after I removed and re-inserted cranks - hit drive side a bit harder and more pre-load. My creaking was right side only. Pm500 cranks.

[FLOz]

I've always figured wobbles are a wheels issue, not a frame issue. Maybe remove the spoke sticker? 

Good catch! I’ll remove the stickers. 😉

I also realised that my Continental GP 4-Season tyres are not Tubeless Ready, even though I’ve been running them tubeless. So I’ll remove them, clean everything up, install TPU tubes, and see whether that improves anything.

[2JPW]

Some thoughts about my my speed whobbles:

Without loads the bike handles very well, not whobbling even at top speeds over 90kph, very good and predictable steering, fast in twisties, no big issue with side wind.

I’m running a front dynamo hub so there is a bit of weight in the front wheel. The wheels are built by me, very true, very even spoketension, running since 25kKM

The whobbling only appeared with the Tailfin which is a common and known problem. Also I’m using the longer arch since I use the Tailfin also on my dropper Seatpost bike. The weight is even more in the back. Next time I’m using the Tailfin I will try some weight distribution to the front with a little bar roll. Also a little more preload may solve the problem.

I will report back.

Did you do any more running with the tailfin? I haven't got my LCR018-D yet, but would be interested to know how it rides with the tailfin.

[2wheeledbarbie]

Hi community, I’m afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.

After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.

It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?

Did shortening the seatpost help?

probably got some dirt somewhere or bearings are aren't good (pedals)

[2wheeledbarbie]

I am absolutely loving this build. Fantastic frame and bars from LC.

supper nice - was going to go for the red crystal but cost, time to paint and I like the murdered out look made me keep with the unpainted.

[2wheeledbarbie]

Good catch! I’ll remove the stickers. 😉

I also realised that my Continental GP 4-Season tyres are not Tubeless Ready, even though I’ve been running them tubeless. So I’ll remove them, clean everything up, install TPU tubes, and see whether that improves anything.

why? 

[pandaman]

Gonna start putting my frame together this weekend.

My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost.  In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand.  Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?

[2JPW]

Gonna start putting my frame together this weekend.

My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost.  In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand.  Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?

Yes still safest as I'd the worst happened you only break a seatpost rather than a frame.