Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[2JPW]

Finally finished build.

Size 58cm

Shimano 105 Di2 and Campagnolo Shamal gravel wheelset.

Ryet saddle

SL 550 pedals

Schwalbe 32C tyres

Hope rotors

TPU tubes

Comes in at 8.3kg

[KRoser]

szorek: It turn smooth no problems, check cables, you must have something crossed inside or wrong routing completely. Check picture (from tarmac sl8 manual) I use it as a reference for me, note even that hose dampening foam it should end where it shows on picture if it is too long and goes around steerer tube can cause issues with binding.

[szorek]

szorek: It turn smooth no problems, check cables, you must have something crossed inside or wrong routing completely. Check picture (from tarmac sl8 manual) I use it as a reference for me, note even that hose dampening foam it hould end where it shows on picture if it is too long and goes around steerer tube can cause issues with binding.

Thanks for the reply. I have the cables routed as shown in the photo, but... the hose dampening foam ends right behind the upper bearing for me, and that's probably where the problem is. I'll let you know once I fix it!

[jksu]

that's got to be a record!  could be LC is finally getting caught up on production.  congrats and enjoy!

Just got my frame.

Ordered  2026-08-28
Received 2026-09-23

frame, seatpost, bars, satin black.  shipped to California
everything looks great, very clean bearing seats, bottom bracket, and caliper mounts.  much higher quality than other China sourced frames I have worked with.

[Valhalla]

Just got my frame.

Ordered  2026-08-28
Received 2026-09-23

frame, seatpost, bars, satin black.  shipped to California
everything looks great, very clean bearing seats, bottom bracket, and caliper mounts.  much higher quality than other China sourced frames I have worked with.

Hmm i ordered 10 days before you, getting wheels soon but bike is just in painting phase now so Wendy said end of October for rest of bike.
Anyways love to see LC going back to better delivery times.

[2JPW]

Just wondering, what are people putting in the storage compartment?

I have a 58cm frame so thought that I'd have space for a few things. With anti rattle foam on the.brake hose I can't even fit 2 TPU tubes in the frame storage bag.

Any clues as to what people are finding it useful for?

[szorek]

szorek: It turn smooth no problems, check cables, you must have something crossed inside or wrong routing completely. Check picture (from tarmac sl8 manual) I use it as a reference for me, note even that hose dampening foam it should end where it shows on picture if it is too long and goes around steerer tube can cause issues with binding.

I cut a piece of hose dampening foam, and voilà! The handlebars turn very smoothly. Before, the hose dampening foam must have been resting against the bearing. Thanks for the diagram! Its useful!

[rosteven]

Just wondering, what are people putting in the storage compartment?

I have a 58cm frame so thought that I'd have space for a few things. With anti rattle foam on the.brake hose I can't even fit 2 TPU tubes in the frame storage bag.

Any clues as to what people are finding it useful for?

FYI, I had the same problem until someone on the forum suggested that the foam was not necessary inside of the compartment because the bags stop the brake cable from flopping around making noise.  I removed the foam in that area to increase the available space, and so-far have not had any rattling/flopping noises from the storage compartment.

[J89eu]

Built up my bike yesterday, chipped the lovely paint job with the handlebars a touch but oh well. Will try to get a touch up pen and at least cover it as best I can. However, on the shifting side, I am having issues with getting into the smallest cog. Anyone had this? Di2 105, 12 speed. Swapped the hanger just in case it was bent from factory but no luck

[valvze]

Wanted to share my build of the Lightcarbon LCR18, first post on Chinertown so hi everyone!!

For context: I came off a rim brake 2019 Supersix Evo. This build cost $3300 AUD, weighs just over 8kg with Ultegra Di2 and budget carbon wheels. I'm a weekend rider, ~4hrs/week, 3w/kg threshold, 900w sprint, just basically an average punter

Ordering: Placed order with Carol at LC on Sept 7th, frame arrived Sept 23rd. Size 50, UD matte black, 110/38 bar. Skipped custom paint to avoid getting sad over inevitable paint chips ($1120 AUD)

Quality: No voids I could see (no endoscope though), brake mounts/BB faced properly, headset seats held on to bearings firmly, supplied BB threaded in by hand with no issue. Downtube storage doesn't rattle even without any brake liner. Handlebars are step up from my old Kocevlo ones definitely.

The build itself:

Cutting the fork was the scariest part, but luckily got it first try with a hacksaw, 32 TPI blade, and a guide.
Hose routing through the bar was fiddly, broke a tool but got there with some needle nose pliers.
Didn't torque the BB properly
Magene P515 crankset (280 AUD from Taobao) needed some spacers to remove play, no creaking 100km in. Paired fine with phone/computer via the Chinese Magene app.
Ultegra Di2 (1200 AUD off Taobao) is nice but not life-changing coming from Dura Ace 9100 rim brake. Honestly think I prefer the tactile feedback on mechanical and slamming up and down the cassette but I appreciate that this needs less maintenance (fingers crossed!)

Brake bleeding was a pain, my funnel cup kept leaked, contaminated a pad/rotor, but I've got new ones on the way.
Superteam Classic wheels are fine and do the job. I wanted Tagoola Cure but they were out of stock at the time.

On the road: Very stable thanks to longer wheelbase/trail, definitely not as twitchy as the Supersix, but this is reasonable for an endurance frame. Can't really judge speed difference yet, but the aero tuck with 90 degree elbows is easier with the higher stack/shorter cranks. Chipseal transmits more vibration up front than the supersix I think because of the bigger tubing so fat tyres are a must. I bought 30c but regret not going 32 or 34. The bar's 8mm rise pushes your shoulders inward when resting hands on the flats because of the curve. Not a huge issue but not the biggest fan of this design choice. At least it looks pretty cool. Rear end is noticeably more compliant than the front (maybe from dropped seat stays?)

Annoyances: Downtube storage doesn't fit my pump so I still need a saddle bag, thru axles need allen key (does anyone know if I can get thru axles with a handle anywhere that fit?), seatpost bolts hard to torque. Seatpost slippage was a non-issue with some carbon paste though.

Overall: Way smoother build than expected. Get a bike stand if you're doing this solo but I had help balancing the frame around and still recommend one. Value is insane, cheapest comparable brand new bike here in Aus (Polygon Strattos with Ultegra) is $700 more and comes with no power meter, wrong saddle, one-piece bar/stem, and wrong crank length. Carol from LC was responsive daily. No obvious frame defects to the naked eye, very happy with it, would buy from them again - maybe the LCR20!!

[rosteven]

I bought 30c but regret not going 32 or 34.

I can confirm that the ride is very smooth with bigger tires and lower pressures, I put 35's on mine and the ride is great.  I also stayed with the base finish but went with the Raw Carbon Gloss since there was no extra charge over the matt finish, and it does not show fingerprints and smudges like the matt (also matt finishes have a tendency to get shiny on contact points - guess how I know  ).  Congrats, on putting together a good-looking build!!!

[jksu]

for those of us who waited close to 3mo, the 2 week turnaround for your bike is awesome.  and agree, best parts (both fun and cost-wise) of building up a LC bike, is specing the parts/crank lengths/stem-bar etc combos and not needing the extra costs of buying replacement parts when you get an off the rack bike from one of the major brands.

had similar feelings coming from a rim brake parlee altum w/dura ace 11speed, but am getting used to di2 (and enjoying not worrying about stretched/frayed shift cables anymore).  definitely enjoying the endurance geometry and stability in fast descents.

i've dialed out my front end harshness with slightly less (2psi) front tire pressure vs the rear and it's taken the sting out while still feeling fast and safe from pinch flats (tpu tubes).

consider a small battery operated pump - the little ones can fit in the downtube storage area.

i'm loving the bike enough to definitely consider another frame from LC.  when they come out with a gravel model that can accommodate 2.2 tires, i'll definitely consider it.

Wanted to share my build of the Lightcarbon LCR18, first post on Chinertown so hi everyone!!

For context: I came off a rim brake 2019 Supersix Evo. This build cost $3300 AUD, weighs just over 8kg with Ultegra Di2 and budget carbon wheels. I'm a weekend rider, ~4hrs/week, 3w/kg threshold, 900w sprint, just basically an average punter

Ordering: Placed order with Carol at LC on Sept 7th, frame arrived Sept 23rd. Size 50, UD matte black, 110/38 bar. Skipped custom paint to avoid getting sad over inevitable paint chips ($1120 AUD)

Quality: No voids I could see (no endoscope though), brake mounts/BB faced properly, headset seats held on to bearings firmly, supplied BB threaded in by hand with no issue. Downtube storage doesn't rattle even without any brake liner. Handlebars are step up from my old Kocevlo ones definitely.

The build itself:

Cutting the fork was the scariest part, but luckily got it first try with a hacksaw, 32 TPI blade, and a guide.
Hose routing through the bar was fiddly, broke a tool but got there with some needle nose pliers.
Didn't torque the BB properly
Magene P515 crankset (280 AUD from Taobao) needed some spacers to remove play, no creaking 100km in. Paired fine with phone/computer via the Chinese Magene app.
Ultegra Di2 (1200 AUD off Taobao) is nice but not life-changing coming from Dura Ace 9100 rim brake. Honestly think I prefer the tactile feedback on mechanical and slamming up and down the cassette but I appreciate that this needs less maintenance (fingers crossed!)

Brake bleeding was a pain, my funnel cup kept leaked, contaminated a pad/rotor, but I've got new ones on the way.
Superteam Classic wheels are fine and do the job. I wanted Tagoola Cure but they were out of stock at the time.

On the road: Very stable thanks to longer wheelbase/trail, definitely not as twitchy as the Supersix, but this is reasonable for an endurance frame. Can't really judge speed difference yet, but the aero tuck with 90 degree elbows is easier with the higher stack/shorter cranks. Chipseal transmits more vibration up front than the supersix I think because of the bigger tubing so fat tyres are a must. I bought 30c but regret not going 32 or 34. The bar's 8mm rise pushes your shoulders inward when resting hands on the flats because of the curve. Not a huge issue but not the biggest fan of this design choice. At least it looks pretty cool. Rear end is noticeably more compliant than the front (maybe from dropped seat stays?)

Annoyances: Downtube storage doesn't fit my pump so I still need a saddle bag, thru axles need allen key (does anyone know if I can get thru axles with a handle anywhere that fit?), seatpost bolts hard to torque. Seatpost slippage was a non-issue with some carbon paste though.

Overall: Way smoother build than expected. Get a bike stand if you're doing this solo but I had help balancing the frame around and still recommend one. Value is insane, cheapest comparable brand new bike here in Aus (Polygon Strattos with Ultegra) is $700 more and comes with no power meter, wrong saddle, one-piece bar/stem, and wrong crank length. Carol from LC was responsive daily. No obvious frame defects to the naked eye, very happy with it, would buy from them again - maybe the LCR20!!

[valvze]

for those of us who waited close to 3mo, the 2 week turnaround for your bike is awesome.  and agree, best parts (both fun and cost-wise) of building up a LC bike, is specing the parts/crank lengths/stem-bar etc combos and not needing the extra costs of buying replacement parts when you get an off the rack bike from one of the major brands.

had similar feelings coming from a rim brake parlee altum w/dura ace 11speed, but am getting used to di2 (and enjoying not worrying about stretched/frayed shift cables anymore).  definitely enjoying the endurance geometry and stability in fast descents.

i've dialed out my front end harshness with slightly less (2psi) front tire pressure vs the rear and it's taken the sting out while still feeling fast and safe from pinch flats (tpu tubes).

consider a small battery operated pump - the little ones can fit in the downtube storage area.

i'm loving the bike enough to definitely consider another frame from LC.  when they come out with a gravel model that can accommodate 2.2 tires, i'll definitely consider it.

Yeah I think I may have just gotten lucky and everything except the fork was in stock. I originally asked for a gloss finish and also a 120/38 bar but  was told it'd take close to a month to get this spec. I'm very impatient so I just ordered what they had and luckily the 110 feels pretty good, 120 may have been too long. I don't mind the basic matte finish either because a lot of budget carbon rims are matte as well and it doesn't look too bad all matched up.

After a fast bunch ride this morning and pulling some turns at 45 kph, definitely notice the compounded benefit of the aero tubing, wider tyres, and waxed drivetrain compared to my supersix. It's a lot easier to maintain a steady power output going from 172.5 to 165, honestly regret not going even shorter. One bloke with a Pinarello was poking fun of my 'temu' bike at the start but didn't hear a word from him after towing the bunch around

Di2 is pretty good, but the engineering sophistication of high end mechanical groupsets like Red and Dura-Ace is like art to me compared to a servo. Although on this frame as a first time builder, I reckon mechanical routing would have been an awful nightmare, electric is very nice for that reason.

The pressure's a good call - I think I will end up selling the Superteams though as they're not doing the frame any justice. Am considering some wider and deeper (60mm) XMCS or similar so I can run 32/34s without mushrooming. I like that rims are no longer a consumable coming from a rim brake bike so it's easier for me to justify spending a little extra knowing I'm not burning through cash as I brake on a descent haha.

Yeah it's definitely unfortunate about my pump. Will get a new one after this one craps out inevitably or may just switch to the goofy narrow pocket handpump. I was kind of disappointed to find out a lot of these e-pumps have limited longevity. Do you have any recommendations for one that fits?

[Valhalla]

I can confirm that the ride is very smooth with bigger tires and lower pressures, I put 35's on mine and the ride is great.  I also stayed with the base finish but went with the Raw Carbon Gloss since there was no extra charge over the matt finish, and it does not show fingerprints and smudges like the matt (also matt finishes have a tendency to get shiny on contact points - guess how I know  ).  Congrats, on putting together a good-looking build!!!

I am thinking between 32 and 35mm road tyre (I have wheels LightCarbon C52DB - which are 23 mm inner width), which tyre width did u use before and could u say u lost some speed and gained smoother ride?
I use bike as workout and riding for fun just roads are roughish around here.
Thats why i want endurance bike(and old ass with meh flexibility) just thinking 32mm is limit for which you can go for a road tyre to not lose 2 much speed?

Today i even saw video from David Arthur on running 35mm smooth gravel tyres instead of road tyres so u can do some light gravel ride without lossing much real world speed  .

Edit: ok im dumbass ordered 21 inner width with 28 outer width version of the wheels instead of 23/32.
Will go 32s for now as 35s seem 2 wide for 28 outer. How is Pirelli for mounting on rims? Are they hard to mount?

[rosteven]

I am thinking between 32 and 35mm road tyre (I have wheels LightCarbon C52DB - which are 23 mm inner width), which tyre width did u use before and could u say u lost some speed and gained smoother ride?
I use bike as workout and riding for fun just roads are roughish around here.
Thats why i want endurance bike(and old ass with meh flexibility) just thinking 32mm is limit for which you can go for a road tyre to not lose 2 much speed?

Today i even saw video from David Arthur on running 35mm smooth gravel tyres instead of road tyres so u can do some light gravel ride without lossing much real world speed  .

Edit: ok im dumbass ordered 21 inner width with 28 outer width version of the wheels instead of 23/32.
Will go 32s for now as 35s seem 2 wide for 28 outer. How is Pirelli for mounting on rims? Are they hard to mount?

The wheels that I'm using on the LC are 25mm inner and 31mm outer. I fitted that combination as part of my build, so I never had any other wheel/tires on the bike, hence no info on losing speed with that combo on the bike. The Pirellis went on with no issues; I will say that they were a lot easier to mount than the Conti GP5000's that I have on one of my other bikes.