Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[PScott]

Also placed an order today for a size 52, chameleon 01HS paintwork (was surprised it's only 25$ extra compared to a single color paint), T47 BB, extra UDH hanger and a bag for the inner tube storage compartment.
Total was 1044$ USD including shipping to Canada and paypal fees.

FYI Jim from Lightcarbon told me that they expect to raise the price of the frame at the end of the year due to recent increases in raw material prices.

pics with the chameleon paint?

[Littletitus]

Mine (size 50…) is also painted an on its way to Germany… let’s see when it arrives…

[Ludo]

That’s a nice pint job!

[vietmunki]

Test ride review to come tomorrow.

How was the test ride? I saw that you're selling it?

[BeR]

The ride is so much smooth and the frame feels stiff at the same time. I think that it also comes from the wheels. I love carbon spokes wheelset.

I did not have any disc rubbing even during some sprints. Because of the "high stack", it is easier to stay in aero position. I feel that I can put and keep more power during flat and climbing than with a bike with a lower stack.

I don't think that it is less aero than a Propel for example but I don't have a powermeter to confirm this (yet).

It is also very stable in descent (max 66 km/h) and the frame feels very reliable and durable.

The only thing where it lacks a little is when sprinting. Maybe it is because of the high wheelbase, but it feels less snappy than a racing bike.

The handlebar is also stiff and I love the shape.

I registered to 3 full Ironman (only one with the label and the 2 others without it because of the price 😅). I need to build a dedicate TT bike.

Would I recommand this LCR018 ? Yes totally, it has everything that a bike needs to have for 90 % of people. For people who make a lot of sprints, It is not the perfect choice but the ride is so smooth and it goes fast. The clearance, UDH, T47, seapost with/without setback are a big advantage for thé bike.

Last thing : Some people asked me where the bike comes from. It has a good looking .

[krusty50]

pics with the chameleon paint?

Frame is currently on it's way. Here's a screenshot from the video I got from Jim. The lightning setup in the room doesn't do justice to the paint color IMO.

[CyclesNoir]

Even after tightening my SRAM XPLR derailleur, I can still move the right chainstay 🫣
Does anyone else have this problem?

I don't have that problem with my (not SRAM) derailleur. 
1) It looks like you haven't a cassette installed yet, but that is the axle end of your rear hub, yes? 
2) The silver bit on the inside of the dropout looks poorly machined - note how uneven the serrations are.  I'm not sure I'd be quick to trust its trueness to spec.
3) Having no experience with UDH, the fit of my hanger seemed too tight at first go.  Research on the subject explained that was necessary to prevent forward rotation of the derailleur except in the case of an accident.  So I torqued to spec and the the mount fit perfectly into the frame.  I was using the UDH hanger from LightCarbon which I think is a very nicely engineered and manufactured part.  I trust its specs.  BTW it only weighs 20gm, confirmed on two examples, each on two different scales.
4) Is XPLR a direct mount derailleur (that is, not a UDH derailleur)?  Are you using a SRAM conversion mount to make XPLR work on a UDH frame?  If torquing to spec doesn't fix your problem, I'd go back to the mfg of you hanger and seek help from them.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I don't have that problem with my (not SRAM) derailleur. 
1) It looks like you haven't a cassette installed yet, but that is the axle end of your rear hub, yes? 
2) The silver bit on the inside of the dropout looks poorly machined - note how uneven the serrations are.  I'm not sure I'd be quick to trust its trueness to spec.
3) Having no experience with UDH, the fit of my hanger seemed too tight at first go.  Research on the subject explained that was necessary to prevent forward rotation of the derailleur except in the case of an accident.  So I torqued to spec and the the mount fit perfectly into the frame.  I was using the UDH hanger from LightCarbon which I think is a very nicely engineered and manufactured part.  I trust its specs.  BTW it only weighs 20gm, confirmed on two examples, each on two different scales.
4) Is XPLR a direct mount derailleur (that is, not a UDH derailleur)?  Are you using a SRAM conversion mount to make XPLR work on a UDH frame?  If torquing to spec doesn't fix your problem, I'd go back to the mfg of you hanger and seek help from them.

🙄

[paul_otta]

A lot of words to say you don’t know nothing about T-Type Derailleurs.
I don’t want to be salty but it’s impressive to see some people in this thread with ZERO knowledge trying to explain / solve problems. Please educate yourself before doing it with others. It’s dangerous. (And no, this not only addresses you)

To solve the problem:
- measure the width of the frame and compare it to sram specifications
- check the SRAM T Type Videos. They are very helpful.
- if you got another UDH frame, compare it to the LC.
- did you torque it to specific torque?
- the plastic insert/washer is installed correctly and the silver part of the derailleur is perfectly fine.
- if the frame is not wide enough I would try to install washers. BUT this can cause problems and may result in failures. Personally I’d go with washers on both sides until everything sits flush.
- do you got an original UDH dropout? Try to install that and compare it to the Derailleur.
- UDH is a standard. You either use a UDH Dropout to use a non Direct Mount Derailleur OR a Direct mount derailleur.
- there should not be a crack - T-Types sit flush on frame and washer. No matter if it’s MTB (GX, XX) or XPLR 13spd

My frame should arrive next week. I can check XPLR 13 Speeds, MTB T-Type and various UDH Dropouts. Also I can compare it to different UDH Frames and send these exact measure of dropouts.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

A lot of words to say you don’t know nothing about T-Type Derailleurs.
I don’t want to be salty but it’s impressive to see some people in this thread with ZERO knowledge trying to explain / solve problems. Please educate yourself before doing it with others. It’s dangerous. (And no, this not only addresses you)

To solve the problem:
- measure the width of the frame and compare it to sram specifications
- check the SRAM T Type Videos. They are very helpful.
- if you got another UDH frame, compare it to the LC.
- did you torque it to specific torque?
- the plastic insert/washer is installed correctly and the silver part of the derailleur is perfectly fine.
- if the frame is not wide enough I would try to install washers. BUT this can cause problems and may result in failures. Personally I’d go with washers on both sides until everything sits flush.
- do you got an original UDH dropout? Try to install that and compare it to the Derailleur.
- UDH is a standard. You either use a UDH Dropout to use a non Direct Mount Derailleur OR a Direct mount derailleur.
- there should not be a crack - T-Types sit flush on frame and washer. No matter if it’s MTB (GX, XX) or XPLR 13spd

My frame should arrive next week. I can check XPLR 13 Speeds, MTB T-Type and various UDH Dropouts. Also I can compare it to different UDH Frames and send these exact measure of dropouts.

Thank you. I wrote something similar but more grumpy so decided to delete it 😂.

SRAM derailleur tolerances are very good in my experience, so it’s probably the frame, unless it hasn’t been torqued yet.
I don’t have a mech to hand, but I probably will tomorrow and can measure it.

If you can do the same, we can hopefully pinpoint the error.

As the image is so large it makes the issue to worse. I think the gap is probably 2-3mm but still something that shouldn’t be there.

I haven’t yet ordered my frame as I’ve been waiting for someone to fit a UDH. If anyone else has fitted a UDH, did you have any issues?

[paul_otta]

Which Derailleur you want to use, I’m happy to do a full on T-Type test when my frame arrives

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I’ll be using a Force or Red, haven’t decided yet.
I’d be grateful for an more experienced opinion from someone who has the frame and mech in hand 😀

[radrick_91]

I can give you a quick interim report. I have the frame and a Sram Rival XPLR E1 group. I had provisionally mounted the rear derailleur and it was wobbly. After measuring the frame, I found that it was a few millimeters outside the tolerance specified in the official Sram description (12.5 mm +/- 0.2) (measured 12.1 mm). I then tightened the derailleur to 35 Nm and it seems to be sitting correctly. However, I couldn't complete the installation because I'm still waiting for my wheelset. As already mentioned, the installation instructions from Sram should be followed meticulously.

I'll be happy to update you when I'm further along with my build.

[biggiebaksteen]

Just got a message from wendy, my size 58 frame is ready for shipment!

[Francy68]

Test ride review to come tomorrow.

congrats, that's awesome! I noticed you have maxxis Highroad, for me Is the first time I buy a set, yesterday I try to install them but It was so difficult to put them on. I am afraid If I get a flat during a ride might be a problem fix It.  Was it easy to install them for you?