After spending a foggy and cold day in the workshop, the bike is ready and I did a short 20k spin to shoot some proper photos.
First Impressions of the Ride
- great position - can imagine going 10+ hours on this
- good and fast acceleration and direct in corners - but not as a full on racer (which is good)
- absolutly silent
Partlist:
Frameset: LCR18-D 58cm
Wheels: LB WR45 with Sapim CX-Ray / CX-Sprint, Son Delux and Carbon Ti X-Hub SL
Groupset:
- Force E1 Brifters with Hope RX4 Calipers
- Force E1 Road Powermeter Crankset with Raketa 42T Chainring
- 1295 10-52 Cassette
- Rival D1 XPLR Derailleur with Garbaruk Cage (to shift the 52 Cog)
- XX Chain
- DUB Road T47 BB (used 1*3mm DUB Spacer on the drive side)
- SRAM CLX-R 160mm Discs
Tires: Michelin Pro5 35mm, Cyclami TPU Tupes
Bartape: Burgh X
Cages: Canyon CF SLX with Titan Screw
Specials: Sinewave Beacon 2, Allygn EdelMÜ
Weight: 8.55KG (without all the Dynamostuff, the bike would end up somewhere at 7.95KG)
The building process was super easy. I´ve build a lot of bikes and I did not had any errors or problems. Of course, the routing of the cables takes a while but is not that bad to be honest.
Some things Lightcarbon should think of changing:
- Adding some sealings to the Headset (Im happy that I changed to Stainless with good seals) Its basically all open.
- changing the position of the Seatpost Locking screw (barely possible to reach it with a torque wrench)
- chaging the mechanism of the Saddleclamp: its pure shit - go for something easy to adjust like thomson or all the others. This design is hard to reach and a pain to change a few degrees. Who ever came along with this design should be punished by mounting saddles with this post until the end of life...

Other than that: easy peasy.
Tipps / Recommendations:
- For all the DUB/SRAM users. Get yourself the WolfTooth DUB T47 BB Tool. Great design, very solid.
- Get Stainless Steel Headset bearings, use loads of grease
- Tape down the front hose to the fork steerer
- Apply loads of grease to the whole front steerer (especially whats IN the frame) by that, you prevent damage due to the rear hose rubbing on the steerer in the headtube)