Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[Bender87]

I have to agree that the seatpost clamping mechanism (and overall adjustment) is a terrible design.
An absolute pig to get at the bolts and hard to adjust and keep everything in place before trying to tighten.
I tend to micro adjust my position and have nearly rounded one of my bolts already as I’m having to go in at an angle to tighten - a really, really bad design choice.

I wonder if the seatpost shape is the same as any other brand??
I would love to be able to find a seatpost that has the 2 bolt TCR type adjustment system.
It would take away the only problem I have with the bike overall as everything else has been faultless.

Agree on the bolts, i ordered TX25 Ti bolts and a 100mm long bit for it. With this i can at least tighten them with the correct torque, even if the bit come in contact with the seat post itself and make same scratches.

[Samuel BMR]

After spending a foggy and cold day in the workshop, the bike is ready and I did a short 20k spin to shoot some proper photos.

First Impressions of the Ride
- great position - can imagine going 10+ hours on this
- good and fast acceleration and direct in corners - but not as a full on racer (which is good)
- absolutly silent

Partlist:
Frameset: LCR18-D 58cm
Wheels: LB WR45 with Sapim CX-Ray / CX-Sprint, Son Delux and Carbon Ti X-Hub SL
Groupset:
- Force E1 Brifters with Hope RX4 Calipers
- Force E1 Road Powermeter Crankset with Raketa 42T Chainring
- 1295 10-52 Cassette
- Rival D1 XPLR Derailleur with Garbaruk Cage (to shift the 52 Cog)
- XX Chain
- DUB Road T47 BB (used 1*3mm DUB Spacer on the drive side)
- SRAM CLX-R 160mm Discs
Tires: Michelin Pro5 35mm, Cyclami TPU Tupes
Bartape: Burgh X
Cages: Canyon CF SLX with Titan Screw
Specials: Sinewave Beacon 2, Allygn EdelMÜ

Weight: 8.55KG (without all the Dynamostuff, the bike would end up somewhere at 7.95KG)


The building process was super easy. I´ve build a lot of bikes and I did not had any errors or problems. Of course, the routing of the cables takes a while but is not that bad to be honest.
Some things Lightcarbon should think of changing:
- Adding some sealings to the Headset (Im happy that I changed to Stainless with good seals) Its basically all open.
- changing the position of the Seatpost Locking screw (barely possible to reach it with a torque wrench)
- chaging the mechanism of the Saddleclamp: its pure shit - go for something easy to adjust like thomson or all the others. This design is hard to reach and a pain to change a few degrees. Who ever came along with this design should be punished by mounting saddles with this post until the end of life...

Other than that: easy peasy.

Tipps / Recommendations:
- For all the DUB/SRAM users. Get yourself the WolfTooth DUB T47 BB Tool. Great design, very solid.
- Get Stainless Steel Headset bearings, use loads of grease
- Tape down the front hose to the fork steerer
- Apply loads of grease to the whole front steerer (especially whats IN the frame) by that, you prevent damage due to the rear hose rubbing on the steerer in the headtube)

How wide are the MICHELIN PRO5 tires on the LB rims? 37?38? If I remember correctly the LB are 25mm internal

[KRoser]

Samuel BMR: I measured my Michelin PRO 35s on my 28mm internal rim width exactly 36.9mm, so on 25mm rim I would expect 36-36.5mm

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I measured them on a few different wheels, a few pages back.
25int was 37-38 depending on pressure

[Kuhar]

I cannot figure where is this spacer going. Any clue?

For last two seasons I’m riding Schwalbe Pro One Folding Tire 34-622. For 28€ on bike24 is a steal.  Exactly 34mm wide on Elitewheel ENT 2.0. 0 punctures after 12.000km.

[paul_otta]

Samuel BMR: I measured my Michelin PRO 35s on my 28mm internal rim width exactly 36.9mm, so on 25mm rim I would expect 36-36.5mm

About 35.8mm on the LB. I was hoping for more.

[Bike.Man]

I also installed a chain catcher, by the way 😄
I did have to make a spacer, but otherwise it fits quite well. https://www.rosebikes.de/wolf-tooth-lonewolf-aero-chainguide-kettenfuehrung-fuer-backroad-ff-2724800

[Bike.Man]

I cannot figure where is this spacer going. Any clue?

For last two seasons I’m riding Schwalbe Pro One Folding Tire 34-622. For 28€ on bike24 is a steal.  Exactly 34mm wide on Elitewheel ENT 2.0. 0 punctures after 12.000km.

The spacer goes under the cover of the upper steering head bearing if it rubs against the frame. I didn't install the spacer because I have enough clearance.

[jstrawks]

Yes - one for the top, one for the bottom.

Today I´ve recieved the pictures of my frameset. A bit more colorful then all these black beauties
Lets see how the decals shine in daylight - they should have the same color as the dropouts but look a bit darker. In the End, if I cant stand it, Ill get matching ones later on...

Its a 58 - should arrive in the next 15 days

I've been sleeping on Chinertown for quite a while. My last two builds are Waltly Ti. I'm here because I saw this fame built up on Reddit this morning. Thanks for sharing that, there.

I think I've found a replacement for my Carbonda 1056. This ticks ALL of my boxes.

• Aero tube shapes
• Endurance geometry
• T47
• UDH
• Internal storage
• 38mm tire clearance
• Custom paint available

Aero/proprietary seatpost could be a dealbreaker...particularly with that seat clamping mechanism. Has anyone found a better post for this frame?

I hope there are no issues building this up without an integrated bar/stem. I prefer routing through FSA SMR.

[jstrawks]

Mine (size 50…) is also painted an on its way to Germany… let’s see when it arrives…

I'd totally steal this paintjob concept! Beutiful.

[paul_otta]

Happy you came back due to my post

Regarding the Seatpost. Yes it’s stupid, yes it’s the worst design I’ve ever seen.
Is it a deal breaker? No! In the end, you don’t need the exact torque for tinkering around and this works okayish with a slim Allen key. After finding the correct position, torque it down

If someone finds another fitting seatpost, I will change - now it’s fine

[jstrawks]

Happy you came back due to my post

Regarding the Seatpost. Yes it’s stupid, yes it’s the worst design I’ve ever seen.
Is it a deal breaker? No! In the end, you don’t need the exact torque for tinkering around and this works okayish with a slim Allen key. After finding the correct position, torque it down

If someone finds another fitting seatpost, I will change - now it’s fine

Maybe Jim Lee will decide the seatpost needs a rethink.

[carboncal]

TraceVelo had a solution  for a slipping seatpost which is to wrap it in that plastic that bedsheets come in. Says it works every time.

[samwisegangey]

Is it normal to have wobble on a UDH with the RD prior to installing the chain? when i say wobble, the udh isnt moving, it appears that the ltwoo RD cant go in any further when screwing in.

[bsharp77]

TraceVelo had a solution  for a slipping seatpost which is to wrap it in that plastic that bedsheets come in. Says it works every time.

The seatpost isn't slipping - there is a fundamental design problem with how the saddle clamp bolts are accessed.
Its next to impossible to access them without either scraping against the seatpost or having the bit at an angle - neither of which are ideal, and should have been thought about before this design was approved.

Ill say again, that the 2 bolt design that many use, such as the Giant TCR, where one bolt is used for angle and the the other for tightening is by far and away the easiest and most effective clamping design I have ever used and it simply baffles me why it is not more commonplace compared to some of the other terrible clamping systems in use.

What does everyone reckon to the profile of the seatpost - is it a proprietary design, or would there be hope of finding a 3rd party solution that would fit (one of the hylix seatposts perhaps?).
Ive asked Lightcarbon directly for a response to this question, but im not confident of a response!