Cheap carbon dub cranks with easton direct mount interface

[Sander2177]

One point to note, the preload ring is not compatible with SRAM DUB cranks.

The SRAM one has a moveable part that carries the thread, meanwhile all the chinese cranks (LEESE/CYBRE/PASSQUEST/FOVNO etc) all have the preload thread on the ND crank.

But on the other hand, the preload rings for chinese cranks seem to be compatible with each other.
My FOVNO one works fine on the LEESE one.

The problem seems to be with the repair part availability, so far I can only find the preload rings from WEIR (another crank priced very similar to LEESE) sold alone.

Sorting out my crank tomorrow now that I’ve finally got a proper torque wrench coming!

Just wanted to check — for the main axle bolt (drive side), which I believe is steel threading into a titanium spindle:
Have any of you applied anti-seize, grease, or maybe Loctite 243 (blue) before torquing it down?

I’m thinking galvanic corrosion risk here — especially steel/Ti contact, plus potential thread galling.

Plan is:

Clean threads

Anti-seize or Loctite 243 on the bolt threads

Grease under the bolt head

Torque to 40 Nm

Sound solid?

Also working on crank spacing:
I currently have 1.25 mm on the drive side and 1.5 mm on the non-drive. After torquing everything, I might need to shave off 0.25 mm to get perfect symmetry — measured roughly from the middle of the bottle cage mount with a tape, so not super precise, but close.

Trying to dial in the crank alignment as cleanly as I can — yeah, I know it’s probably OCD but half a mm feels like a mile once you’re aware of it

[BikeLab]

Guys, im also looking for some crankset to install on my Speeder SC-R55D.

Im looking for something with spider power meter so what are my options?

For the moment, im considering:
- XCADEY spider power meter
- Elilee X310 165 mm cranks
- Cybrei 2x aero chainrings

Are there any cheaper but quality options for cranks and chainrings? What are chainrings working with Ultegra Di2 12s? (I heard bad opinion about PASS QUEST)

EDIT: Cybrei chainrings look cool, but i can also go for aluminium.

[Da11as]

Guys, im also looking for some crankset to install on my Speeder SC-R55D.

Im looking for something with spider power meter so what are my options?

For the moment, im considering:
- XCADEY spider power meter
- Elilee X310 165 mm cranks
- Cybrei 2x aero chainrings

Are there any cheaper but quality options for cranks and chainrings? What are chainrings working with Ultegra Di2 12s? (I heard bad opinion about PASS QUEST)

EDIT: Cybrei chainrings look cool, but i can also go for aluminium.

Look up Lexon crankset thread. Just don't buy DUB cranks.

[toxin]

I wouldn't go near lexon for just about anything mildly complex. Their qc standards have always been rock bottom. Elilee will be the lightest, but if you're okay with an extra 10-25g DFS, CarbonBikeKits, XMCarbonSpeed and the newest Riro are all nice options for around 20% less than Elilee.

For chainrings, nothing will perform better than original shimano.

[adam900710]

Sorting out my crank tomorrow now that I’ve finally got a proper torque wrench coming!

Just wanted to check — for the main axle bolt (drive side), which I believe is steel threading into a titanium spindle:

Then it should be a 24mm spindle, unfortunately I have no experience for that spindle.

Have any of you applied anti-seize, grease, or maybe Loctite 243 (blue) before torquing it down?

I only applied grease. In the past I tried blue loctite on threaded BB (T47-86mm wide), and it didn't end up well when you need to remove the BB.

And I clean my bike frequently, including disassemble the cranks, so I do not think loctite is really needed.

I’m thinking galvanic corrosion risk here — especially steel/Ti contact, plus potential thread galling.

If you do frequent cleaning, it should not be a huge deal.
And that's also why I didn't go 24mm ti spindle, DUB/30mm are all aluminum spindle/crank, thus should have no galvanic corrosion.

Plan is:

Clean threads

AFAIK, there is nothing to clean, as there is really nothing applied, really nothing.

Anti-seize or Loctite 243 on the bolt threads

Grease under the bolt head

Torque to 40 Nm

Sound solid?

Sound good to me, except the loctite.

Also working on crank spacing:
I currently have 1.25 mm on the drive side and 1.5 mm on the non-drive. After torquing everything, I might need to shave off 0.25 mm to get perfect symmetry — measured roughly from the middle of the bottle cage mount with a tape, so not super precise, but close.

Trying to dial in the crank alignment as cleanly as I can — yeah, I know it’s probably OCD but half a mm feels like a mile once you’re aware of it

My experience is, 2mm DS would provide the exact chain line compared to my previous R8100 setup, 1.5mm DS may require FD adjustment.

[adam900710]

Guys, im also looking for some crankset to install on my Speeder SC-R55D.

Im looking for something with spider power meter so what are my options?

For the moment, im considering:
- XCADEY spider power meter
- Elilee X310 165 mm cranks
- Cybrei 2x aero chainrings

Personally I'm a high cadence rider (avg 100+), thus my only choice of chainring is 33/48 or lower, Crybrei is out of choice. Nor even the Shimano chainrings.
And I hate carbon chainring either, so a big NONO for those chainrings.
(I use Stone 33/48 for years, paired with Shimano 11-34 or 11-36 cassettes)

If you do not have such weird requirement as me, then Shimano chainrings should be the best, a very good balance between shifting and weight/stiffness (Utegra level and up)

Are there any cheaper but quality options for cranks and chainrings? What are chainrings working with Ultegra Di2 12s? (I heard bad opinion about PASS QUEST)

EDIT: Cybrei chainrings look cool, but i can also go for aluminium.

To me, there seems to be no difference between all those chinese dub carbon cranks, they all seem to be from the same OEM.
The same bolt/extraction cap, the same preload ring mechanism (different from the SRAM one), the same easton interface, the same spindle interface.
Only small differences in the crank weight.

Maybe some QC problems for certain batches, but until proven wrong I will only treat them as cheap alternatives to Shimano cranks (if your frame can accept DUB spindle, aka, no BB86), and in that case no need to choose anything more expensive than necessary.

BTW, I know a local bike shop (really a single shop) in Nanjing (WEIR), where I visited several times before, has their own branded cranks now, the same price level as LEESE, making it very clear the OEM is open to any brand.
So far I'm pretty sure the following brands are completely the same (WEIR RPM/LEESE/CENIT).

[BikeLab]

Personally I'm a high cadence rider (avg 100+), thus my only choice of chainring is 33/48 or lower, Crybrei is out of choice. Nor even the Shimano chainrings.
And I hate carbon chainring either, so a big NONO for those chainrings.
(I use Stone 33/48 for years, paired with Shimano 11-34 or 11-36 cassettes)

If you do not have such weird requirement as me, then Shimano chainrings should be the best, a very good balance between shifting and weight/stiffness (Utegra level and up)


To me, there seems to be no difference between all those chinese dub carbon cranks, they all seem to be from the same OEM.
The same bolt/extraction cap, the same preload ring mechanism (different from the SRAM one), the same easton interface, the same spindle interface.
Only small differences in the crank weight.

Maybe some QC problems for certain batches, but until proven wrong I will only treat them as cheap alternatives to Shimano cranks (if your frame can accept DUB spindle, aka, no BB86), and in that case no need to choose anything more expensive than necessary.

BTW, I know a local bike shop (really a single shop) in Nanjing (WEIR), where I visited several times before, has their own branded cranks now, the same price level as LEESE, making it very clear the OEM is open to any brand.
So far I'm pretty sure the following brands are completely the same (WEIR RPM/LEESE/CENIT).

I had a plan to buy Ultegra 8100 Di2 upgrade kit and get aftermarket cranks, power meter and chainrings - but i forgot about cassete, BB and rotors   

It seems that complete groupset is cheaper and i should find some other powermeter options (crank arm or pedals).

P.S. Never go DUB 

[Da11as]

I wouldn't go near lexon for just about anything mildly complex. Their qc standards have always been rock bottom. Elilee will be the lightest, but if you're okay with an extra 10-25g DFS, CarbonBikeKits, XMCarbonSpeed and the newest Riro are all nice options for around 20% less than Elilee.

For chainrings, nothing will perform better than original shimano.

My point is that the thread became a topic to discuss whatever Cybrei-like cranks, so you may scroll through it and have a look at alternatives. I bought Bigrock crankset with titanium spindle, the only problem here was the crank tightening bolt which is to flimsy for supposed torque - I got a custom one.

[Chamomile]

Speaking of which, do you guys know the thread size of the crank bolt for the DUB spindle? The pitch is 1mm, I assume. I kinda have low expectations for any aluminum crank bolts across different chinese suppliers. Based on my and others' experiences. So I wonder if I can find a replacement on the market or have to go full custom.

[adam900710]

P.S. Never go DUB 

I know Shimano has perfected the 24mm spindle, and their aluminum cranks are still no worse than the carbon competitors, and I still love my R8100 crank (except the Sigeyi powermeter which has developed unbalanced left/right battery wear)

If you hate 30mm spindle, I'd totally agree. The cursed direct bearing in the frame, the aluminum spindle worn down by the steel bearings, the short spindle (at least for the original cannondale design) are all cursed designed, and whoever came up such design must go hell.

However even as a SRAM hater, I have to say the DUB design at least solves most of the problems, by stealing all the good ones from Shimano.
No direct bearing (unless your frame is cursed with BB30) in frames, always have a nylon cup for pressfit, just like BB86.
No direct spindle/bearing contacts, the same 1mm shim just like the 24mm spindle design.

Not to mention the aluminum spindle which is lighter, the larger diameter spindle also allows simpler/easier spindle-to-crank interface (no need to fully bond the crank to spindle).

Thus unless your frame is BB86 or the worst BB30 design, it should really be fine to go 29mm DUB.

The only thing that can not match Shimano is the accurate BB width nor the easy to preload design.
But that's still acceptable with some spacers, and you only need to do the setup once.

[toxin]

I've taken a closer look at the LEESE cranks and I have to say, none of the others come as close as LEESE to looking like they came from the exact same mold as Cybrei. The spindles are different but the arms look identical.

[Sander2177]

I've taken a closer look at the LEESE cranks and I have to say, none of the others come as close as LEESE to looking like they came from the exact same mold as Cybrei. The spindles are different but the arms look identical.

Ok I will have a look myself.
My DFS cranks from a distance look no diffrent from my Cybrei cranks but up close you can see the Cybrei if juts  finished that little bit  better and is more rounded on the profiles where as DFS has a sharper profile but that’s it.
Apart from the lack of instructions which was crap and I managed to sort they are going and shifting on the pass quest 53-39 rings in really good. But I will swap these once the XM Carbon, carbon aluminium rings arrive going for a weight saving on these it will be marginal but i won’t lie it is also about aesthetics as well as I like the look and it will almost be a 1:1 copy with my Cybrei cranks with the same XCADEY PM and carbon aero chainrings.