LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[PowerWadln87]

Okay, so the original LTK bearings are actually a tight fit; I had to press them in with my fingers. The other issue is that I have to use the Lightcarbon C-ring because the other two (FSA No. 55 and the original LTK one) don't fit the headset dust cap. That C-ring, in turn, only fits properly with the original LTK bearings; with the FSA headsets, the Lightcarbon C-ring doesn't seem to seat correctly (it doesn't quite match the bearing's angle or chamfer). I also have two different size specifications for the FSA headsets—I'll take a photo of that later. With the current setup, I'd have a gap of about 2–3 mm above and below the head tube.

[Dell]

So, my FSA No. 55 headset doesn't seem to fit quite right; the upper bearing is too loose and has play. The original bearings fit better. I also have to use the C-ring and spacers supplied with the Lightcarbon HRB17. Effectively, the only part of the FSA No. 55 bundle I'm actually using is the included expander. A question for everyone who has already built up their LTK: how much clearance do you have between the head tube and the fork at the bottom, and between the head tube and the handlebar dust cap at the top?

That's funny, the expander is the only part of the FSA headset that I can't get to work properly with my setup.

[mesosbrodleto]

I got in touch with Alisa.

did you have any update from them?

[hahel]

I had to (dry) test mounting my panaracer gravelking slick 38 mounted on iw29/ow 38 rims, the combo  is 43mm WAM. The front clears with a good margin, the rear (just) touch the di2 cable on the front deraileur and gives a 2-3mm clearance to seat and chainstays.
Going back to my n.ext 34mm on i25 for now. But with a 1x setup and generous clearance conscience 😁 its possible to fit and ride 43mm wam  tires on this frame.

[Re:Entry]

did you have any update from them?

Alisa got in touch with the production manager:

"I've shown the pictures to our production manager to have a check . He confirms it's just the interface connection of 2 pieces of carbon material , not the crack . It formed an imprint by high temperaturer molding . You don't need to worry about it , it won't affect the quality of the frame . You can enjoy your riding !"

That might explain why there are a few frames showing this kind of “crack.” I’m not entirely convinced, though, and I’ll continue to keep an eye on that spot. However, the other pictures in this thread looked much worse.

[PowerWadln87]

Here are a few photos: is the gap too big? I’m currently using the original LTK bearings in the headset, so the fit at the bottom should be perfectly normal. Did you use an additional silver centering ring (see photo) on the steerer tube here? It came with the FSA No. 55 headset. At the top, I just installed the Lightcarbon C-ring, which causes the dust cap to stick out a bit. In the other photos, I’ve captured the specifications of the FSA bearings (bottom: TH MR127 1.5 36°x45° / 5; top: TH MR261A 1.5° ID42 45°x45°).


The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.

[klrdd]

Here are a few photos: is the gap too big? I’m currently using the original LTK bearings in the headset, so the fit at the bottom should be perfectly normal. Did you use an additional silver centering ring (see photo) on the steerer tube here? It came with the FSA No. 55 headset. At the top, I just installed the Lightcarbon C-ring, which causes the dust cap to stick out a bit. In the other photos, I’ve captured the specifications of the FSA bearings (bottom: TH MR127 1.5 36°x45° / 5; top: TH MR261A 1.5° ID42 45°x45°).


The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.

I'd like to help, but it's hard to tell what is going on with these various photos.
But a few things:
1) you don't need the crown race, whether LT-provided or in the FSA no55 set.
2) Did you ask Lightcarbon for FSA-matched dustcap and spacers? That's what I did with my Tavelo bars.
3) The FSA bearings just drop in on both sides. they seem loose, but as @Sakizashi said, they center and fit when preloaded.
4) Have you tried using the FSA bearings and FSA-provided C-ring with the Lightcarbon dustcap and spacers? what happens then? Specifically, when you actually preload this system. Do the gaps close up?

If you could answer some of those questions and maybe label the photos, perhaps we can help figure it out

[Serge_K]

Here are a few photos: is the gap too big?

The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.

From experience, you want to compress the system before you start wondering if gaps are right / if things rub. If it's just a dry fit / finger tight, there's no way all the bits and pieces are in their final position. Especially if plastic spacers / parts are involved. In fact sometimes it's surprising how much slack you can capture tightening / putting tension on the top cap.

[Re:Entry]

Is anyone Running XMC Carbon wheels with 26mm IW and 34,8 OW with Conti 5000 STR 32mm? I am wondering if this combination fits the LTK.

[BeeMC]

I don’t have this exact combination but currently riding 35mm GP5000 WAM 37.2mm on a set of Tagoola 26/34. No problem at all.

[hahel]

Is anyone Running XMC Carbon wheels with 26mm IW and 34,8 OW with Conti 5000 STR 32mm? I am wondering if this combination fits the LTK.

I recently posted about my experiment with a i29 o38 rim and panaracer 38c (43mm WAM) this (just) touched the FD but cleared everything else with 2-3mm, so you should easily fit your combo.

[Sakizashi]

I recently posted about my experiment with a i29 o38 rim and panaracer 38c (43mm WAM) this (just) touched the FD but cleared everything else with 2-3mm, so you should easily fit your combo.

I personally wouldn't ride something that is <4mm, so I wouldn't say that this fits. Way too easy to pick up a little debris and damage the frame.

[OGLuka]

I have finished my build on the weekend and i am absolutely happy with the bike.
The paint is white chameleon gloss and carbon raw UD matte (i guess the darker tinted one).

Build went pretty smooth (for the first time) and i would like to thank you all for all the tips and tricks

My only Problem war the FSA Headset being slightly to low so that i had to buy microspacers to get clearance between the head tube and FSA plastic bottom cap. So i had to use 2x0.25mm microspacers. If anyone in Germany has the same problem i have 2 more Spacers left and i can send them somewhere

To mount the Di2 Battery i used Armaflex 6mm insulation that i had lying around and stuffed the Battery inside the seatpost, seams like a pretty tight fit and will always be easily removable.

Now i am still waiting on some 50mm carbon wheels from serenade but for the meantime i am using some spare DT Swiss wheels (heavy af).

I can also recommend the Bikone T47 bottom bracket that seems to be high quality and is the clostest thing to a one piece BB that i could find for way less money.

The handlebar is ofc a lightcarbon HBR17 in 380x120mm which is absolutely beautiful in my opinion (especially with the 3D printed titanium alloy garmin mount) but there might be lighter options out there. My Bars came in at around 330 gram + garmin mount + Spacers. I also bought the FSA Spacer Adapter to fit the headset which needed some minor adjustments (2 little holes drilled). I don´t know if they have ever used the adapter themselves but out of the box it doesn´t work

The Giant Seatpost cover is also a nice upgrade, thanks for the tip

Here is the whole Part List:

-LTK 266 Frame in Size XL
-Shimano 105 Di2
-Magene Teo P515 Carbon Crankset
-FSA ACR 55r
-Bikone T47 internal Dub BB
-GP 5000 28mm
-old style Dura Ace Brake Rotor 140/140
-Ryet Carbon saddle
-Look Keo Blade pedals

--> i think thats all
Total weight inc. Pedals, bottle cages, pump came in at 7.7 kg, with the serenade wheels (1350 gram vs 1800 DT Swiss) it should be at 7.25 kg

Thanks again to everyone for all the posts on this thread

[andyitslit]

My small frame arrived. Everything looks quite good, smooth seatpost area with no valleys or “cracks”

My only real complaint so far is the Ritchey saddle clamp, wow it’s terrible. I’ll probably replace it with a real ritchey one. Kind of want to see if a defy seatpost will fit the frame, if I ever see someone riding one on a group ride I’ll ask.

[GravelMaxxer]

Hi, I am building up my frame and everything went pretty smoothly so far. Only thing I am not completely understanding yet, did everyone in this sub need to cut their steerer tube? I’ve got a FSA acr no55 LS headset, 40mm of spacers, and a 35mm high stem, and there is still like 25mm of steerer tube coming out of my XXL frame. I was assuming upfront that I wouldn’t need to cut my steerer, because it was an XXL frame and I have pretty high stack. Did everyone in this sub cut their steerer? I am wondering if I am doing something wrong as it’s my first bike build.