LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[klrdd]

Looks great except for the water bottles. They bother my inner monk.
How tall are you and what's your inseam? A 130mm stem is pretty decent!

I actually wanted to order the Longteng cockpit as well, since it's relatively cheap, but it's only available in 90*380 or 100*400.
I think at 1.80m, I'll need a 100!

New bottles are on the way! I promise they will match 

I'm just shy of 183cm/86cm.  I'm a bit like @patliean1 (though I run my seat a little lower, 76cm): I have no trouble doing 4 hours rides with a long slammed stem. On my BMC (reminder: same stack as LTK 56) I was running a 120mm/-17 degree stem over a 16mm dustcap (380mm bars). For new bike, I wanted to be better able to get into the hoods aero position while still keeping my hands on the brake levers--not only resting palms on top of the hoods. Knowing the LTK frame had about 5mm less reach and had a 0mm offset seat post (and I was coming from 15mm offset seatpost) I decided to go with a 130mm/-10 stem and likely slam it. I used this tool http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php to think through the stem length decision and https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ to put the different stem lengths in context of all the other frame measurements and contact points to facilitate transferring the fit over.

But I don't know if my basic body measurements relative to my position are a great guide for anyone, including me.

100/400 may very well work great for you. It could also leave you feeling cramped. Or it could leave you stretched out! And the number of spacers under the bar will make a considerable difference in the effective reach, as will saddle setback and saddle to bar drop. EDIT: oh yeah and the bar width, throw that in, too.

If you don't have a good idea for the cockpit setup you will need, I highly recommend getting separate bar and stem and experimenting with different cheap aluminum stems of varying lengths and degrees. That's what I did over about a year period, during which I also biked a lot and slowly increased my ability to hold an aggressive position -- going from 110/-7 to 120/-7 to 120/-17 and also dropping the stem about 10 or 15mm to the lowest it could go with the included BMC proprietary dust cap. It may hurt your inner monk to not go immediately to fully internally routed cables, but if you goal is dialing in your position to minmax comfort, watts, and CDA, well....

[contraptions]

Are you sure it's too tall, or the outer chamfer is too shallow? The FSA bearings I used appeared to have significantly more depth (3mm out of total 8mm) to the outer 45 degree chamfer than those supplied by LT, which made the FSA ones fit better on the 45 degree sloping parts of the inside of the headtube, rather than sit on top of it. See the attached spec doc from FSA to see what I mean--namely the blueprint of the headtube itself.

I've just taken a closer look.  I don't think a 45/36 bearing is correct for the fork-crown at all which is why it's riding high.

I put the superfluous 36 crown-race on for comparison and you can clearly see the fork crown is 45.  I don't think it's safe to ride that with a 36 bearing, I'm afraid. 

[contraptions]

I should also add - although this a red-herring at this juncture - that I couldn't measure a difference between a genuine FSA MR127 and the supplied bearing.  But seeing as LT appears to be pulling bearings out of a hat we probably don't have the same bearings.

[Sakizashi]

I've just taken a closer look.  I don't think a 45/36 bearing is correct for the fork-crown at all which is why it's riding high.

I put the superfluous 36 crown-race on for comparison and you can clearly see the fork crown is 45.  I don't think it's safe to ride that with a 36 bearing, I'm afraid. 

Huh. But isn't that crown race supposed to fit a 36-degree bearing?

I will disassemble mine to check and see what is going on later this week, but I used a 45/36 bearing, and it's been holding the preload and everything, with no issues. I also checked to see how the bearings seated, and I was fairly certain that the 45/45 did not seat correctly.

[contraptions]

The separate (unnecessary) 36 crown race fits the LT bearing (and the genuine FSA) perfectly.  As the angle is steeper on the bearing than the fork's moulded race then the lower edge of the bearing will sit square but the load is only an annular point contact.

Of course you may have a 45/45 bearing... Easy to check with a credit-card

[Sakizashi]

I used my own bearings from a box I had of Cane Creek bearings. I will double-check this as well, but the upper part of the cone interface is a match for the crown race to me.

[klrdd]

I've just taken a closer look.  I don't think a 45/36 bearing is correct for the fork-crown at all which is why it's riding high.

I put the superfluous 36 crown-race on for comparison and you can clearly see the fork crown is 45.  I don't think it's safe to ride that with a 36 bearing, I'm afraid.

Sorry i think my message was more about the top bearing interface  But like @sakizashi ive had no problems with a 36/45 bottom bearing in terms of preload etc. How about put the bearing on it without the crown race? I dont understand what the ill fitting crown race is supposed to show.

[contraptions]

Sorry i think my message was more about the top bearing interface  But like @sakizashi ive had no problems with a 36/45 bottom bearing in terms of preload etc. How about put the bearing on it without the crown race? I dont understand what the ill fitting crown race is supposed to show.

I used my own bearings from a box I had of Cane Creek bearings. I will double-check this as well, but the upper part of the cone interface is a match for the crown race to me.

For the avoidance of doubt, I was only referring to the lower bearing.

The separate crown race is just in the photo to illustrate the angle difference of the two seats although the angled section on the separate race so small I could be wrong.

That said I've just checked the conical c-shaped compression ring and that too is 45.  What a shambles!  N.b. unlike the fork, you may have a different ring.

I've taken a better photo of the fork crown... I'm pretty convinced that's 45

[Sakizashi]

Put a very thin layer of grease on the 45/36 bearing and fit it. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and repeat with the 45/45. Should ba able to tell which one is the right fit based on the grease smudge. I am fairly certain I did that, but they are close enough that I could have made a mistake and maybe Alisa’s info is wrong.

[contraptions]

Put a very thin layer of grease on the 45/36 bearing and fit it. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and repeat with the 45/45. Should ba able to tell which one is the right fit based on the grease smudge. I am fairly certain I did that, but they are close enough that I could have made a mistake and maybe Alisa’s info is wrong.

Indeed, I would use that method if I had a 45 to hand...

[klrdd]

What's the risk here if my FSA bearing is 'wrong' for the fork taper? I am loath to drop the fork and have to redo all the cabling through bar and headset..

[Sakizashi]

I think this is more than I want to take on today. Really kicking myself for not putting on hydraulic couplers on this frame. It’s literally the only frame I have that I didnt do that for since I figured I would be bleeding this bike every time I changed things around anyway.

I will do this tomorrow unless someone else beats me to it.

Edit: I also contacted Alisa to see if she can have someone confirm with the drawings.

[contraptions]

Suggest you hold-off until I get a 45 bearing.  Going to try and next-day order one today

[contraptions]

At work and just realised I didn't measure the id of the seats to determine whether 51.8/9/52 od bearing would best fit.

I put little store in assuming 51.8 solely based on what was supplied.

  Anyone?

[Sakizashi]

At work and just realised I didn't measure the id of the seats to determine whether 51.8/9/52 od bearing would best fit.

I put little store in assuming 51.8 solely based on what was supplied.

  Anyone?

Anything 52mm to 51.8 mm is considered compliant with the IS52 standard for headsets. I would get the 51.8mm since that is what the official spec is. Alisa confirmed that it should be 40 x 51.8 x 8mm（36°/45°). I am 90% sure that it's also the correct bearing, as I checked, and that the difference is just hard to see due to the curvature of the crown race. I still plan on doing this later today. I would only need to rebleed the front brake.