LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[BeeMC]

Thak you for yuor work!!
What are the thru axles like? Is it worth ordering them with the frame, or can you get something better for a similar price?

I swapped them for these:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Wztwp
L117 M12x1.5 TL12
L168 M12x1.0 TL19

Need to order 2mm spacers
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPxuPP7

They are obviously a bit lighter but I didn’t weight them on a scale. I know nothing about this brand so take my advice with a grain of salt.

[sOKRATEs100]

This is what I did -- FSA no55 headset + Tavelo Bar-stem + Tavelo-supplied FSA adapter/spacers. Worked great.

What I mean is that it is a b*tch to fit the nondriveside crank and spindle through the SRAM DUB T47 internal bb. This has nothing to do with the frame itself--just the way the SRAM components fit together. And yes I did need the single 3mm external driveside spacer. Given the chainstays/tire clearance it's needed for the fit on the LTK266. Now that it is set up it works perfectly. But I needed help to get it installed.

@klrdd:

Hi,

I read you post about the process of installing the BB and crankset....and about "chainstays/tire clearance".

Would love to run 1x SRAM Aero chainring at the front in combination with SRAM E1 XPLR at the back.

Any ideas about if it will fit - also with a 1x 48t chaingring a the front?

Many thanks, Dennis

[klrdd]

@klrdd:

Hi,

I read you post about the process of installing the BB and crankset....and about "chainstays/tire clearance".

Would love to run 1x SRAM Aero chainring at the front in combination with SRAM E1 XPLR at the back.

Any ideas about if it will fit - also with a 1x 48t chaingring a the front?

Many thanks, Dennis

Hi Dennis, I don't have experience with SRAM 1x, so I hesitate to comment on this with anything more than conjecture.

But to expand a bit on what I wrote in that previous post: using the 3mm driveside external spacer for the SRAM T47 internal BB is standard procedure--see the SRAM documenbtation here: https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publications/7unL17qdyCWxTL38aPmYJ0/UM%20-%20DUB%20Cranksets%20and%20Bottom%20Brackets?models=bb-dub-t47-a1 -- so it would have been strange for me not to include it, rather than the other way around.

I do not know exactly how having a single ring up front and the wide XPLR cassette in the back might affect chainline or whether you might need additional spacers, but (again, take this conjecture with a grain of salt) I really doubt it would be much of a problem if I had no problems with clearance in a 2x setup.

In fact, I considered doing the whole 48t x 10-46T 13 speed thing. I never thought it would be a problem that, in a pinch, some additional spacers couldn't solve. But after gazing at gear calculators for a while, I realized I would have been pretty frustrated with the inefficient chain line and huge jumps when climbing steeper stuff (and thus limited options to maintain desired cadence), even though the overall range is actually greater than what I get with my Force E1 48/35 x 10/33 setup. With the weight savings from the frame, going 1x was a bit extra for me, but I also wasnt going full weenie, which might be your thing.

[Ohmanndill]

I don't think you save anyweight with a XPLR derailleur and a 46T cassette, compared to a 2x setup. I don't see much conditions outside of gravel riding where it could be of any advantage

[klrdd]

I don't think you save anyweight with a XPLR derailleur and a 46T cassette, compared to a 2x setup. I don't see much conditions outside of gravel riding where it could be of any advantage

I did the calculations and you save about 240 grams with the 1x XPLR setup. It's pretty much a wash (~60g) before we take into account the front derailleur and its battery, which adds nearly 200g.

But I am totally in agreement with you that I don't think it's worth it. You lose more than you gain for a road setup. And you could get the same weight savings simply by getting a SRAM RED crankset in place of Force (though of course with the price premium for the RED hollowed out and one piece design

[jo1673]

I think with E1 the Force crankarms lost a lot of weight and the delta between Force and Red should be ~100g now. Previous gen Force was heavy.

[klrdd]

I think with E1 the Force crankarms lost a lot of weight and the delta between Force and Red should be ~100g now. Previous gen Force was heavy.

you're right -- https://powermetercity.com/product/sram-red-2x-road-crankset/ they have comparisons on this page based on 172.5mm cranks and 48/35 rings and it's almost exactly 100g by their measure. Still think 2x is a smarter choice for this bike though 

[jo1673]

Oh, I absolutely agree for a road bike. Love 1x for the range on gravel, but on a road bike I tend to be in the big ring almost all the time, and only use the small chainring for extended climbs or bailout (it's generally flat where I live and climbs I only climb on vacation).

Back on topic Are those of you who chose the green transparent happy with the finish? I am considering this frame for a new build. Would have loved an even steeper STA, but haven't really seen any chinese frames with a STA of 74 or larger in my size (I am 183 cm and would pick size L since I think M would be too low for me).

[Freddy__HH]

Just wanted to check in with you guys for a sizing reference. Which size would you order if you were 180cm with 82,5cm legs (short legs, long torso here ). For reference I run a Canyon Grizl Gravel Bike in Size M (saddle heigth 74cm, stem length 10cm, -10degrees, 2cm spacers) but I want my road bike to be (way) more aggressive. Also curious on paint quality and how well faced were BB and brake caliper mountings?

Thanks in advance!

[jo1673]

The Grizl has a stack of 579 mm in size M, which is a full four centimeters taller than this bike in size M. Size XL is pretty close to your current bike - 9 mm shorter and 1 mm taller. Don't know how tall the top cap of the Grizl is, but the LTK266-D-SL can facilitate a low top cap which in combination with dropping the 2 cm of spacers might make a size XL aggressive enough for you.

Size L is 20 mm lower than the Grizl and 13 mm shorter.

[Re:Entry]

Just wanted to share this page I use to compare bike sizes and sizing with different setups. You can switch the language.

https://www.bike-stats.de/

[Sakizashi]

Just wanted to check in with you guys for a sizing reference. Which size would you order if you were 180cm with 82,5cm legs (short legs, long torso here ). For reference I run a Canyon Grizl Gravel Bike in Size M (saddle heigth 74cm, stem length 10cm, -10degrees, 2cm spacers) but I want my road bike to be (way) more aggressive. Also curious on paint quality and how well faced were BB and brake caliper mountings?

Thanks in advance!

Well, the XL isn't available, so the L is your only option. Its probably the right frame anyway. The sizing philosophy on this frame is interesting. If you use spacers to make the stacks equal between sizes, you will need a 10mm shorter stem to get the bar to the same position in terms of an X-Y fitting system on the larger size. i.e., the position of an L requires a 10mm shorter stem than an M, which requires a 10mm shorter stem than the S.

Frame stack and reach can be misleading because adding spacers reduces the reach. Assuming the numbers above are correct for the Grizl, with a 40mm spacer stack, a 120mm -10 degree stem is roughly the same position as the Size L LTK266DSL vs. the M Grizl. You probably wouldn't want to run it that way since most people want a longer and lower fit on the road. I think a two-piece bar and stem would be better for figuring this out, but if you insist on a one-piece and don't want to try out your fit / see a fitter, I would either get a 130mm bar stem with the same width at the tops or a 140mm with a 2cm reduction in width. I suggest starting with 30mm of spacers, with room to bump that up to 40mm if needed.

Regarding the paint, mine was good, but I only asked for matte and clear. The frame was well masked and, as far as I could tell, flawless paintwise. The BB threads were clear, and the BB went in square. The caliper mounts were cleared post-painting, but it looked like they were sanded. Mine built up fine. Finishing wise, like a 8 out of 10. good enough to build up clean, everything dimensionally square, but a little rough.

[oker_s]

Just wanted to check in with you guys for a sizing reference. Which size would you order if you were 180cm with 82,5cm legs (short legs, long torso here ). For reference I run a Canyon Grizl Gravel Bike in Size M (saddle heigth 74cm, stem length 10cm, -10degrees, 2cm spacers) but I want my road bike to be (way) more aggressive. Also curious on paint quality and how well faced were BB and brake caliper mountings?

Thanks in advance!

i went with L but still waiting can report in a few weeks! similar size little bit longer legs...

[klrdd]

Back on topic Are those of you who chose the green transparent happy with the finish? I am considering this frame for a new build. Would have loved an even steeper STA, but haven't really seen any chinese frames with a STA of 74 or larger in my size (I am 183 cm and would pick size L since I think M would be too low for me).

I like the green transparent glossy a lot! It's pretty dark in overcast but really pops in direct sunlight. Otherwise i probably would have gone just black. I do have some regrets not getting creative.... But the green glossy has been a safe, LIGHT, option.

[cLs_elite]

Thanks for the detailed thread about the frame.

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger next month during the AliExpress sale to build up the bike and make it my main road bike. So let's see — I still need to do some more research on other parts and decide on paint jobs, etc.
But it looks like a promising build.