Mondince new 2026 Aero Gravel

[AG1]

Hi,

I got my frame (mondince FM326, size large) a few weeks ago and as I wanted to install my 2.1 Mezcal Tires in the I noticed back that I got way less space on the drive side to the chain stays, than on the non-dive side. That would result in not beeing able to use that size of a tire, since it would get to close for comfort.

Now my question is: Has anyone of you experienced the same issue? If, yes how did you solve it? My suggestion is, that there is some exess resin or paint beneath the UDH hanger, which makes it sit not completely perfect and therefore resulting in my tire sitting at an angle.

I also tested it with different wheels to make sure, the wheel is not the problem.

In the attached pictures you can see it with a 40mm road tire: on the drive side I can fit a 6mm hex key, on the non drive side a 8mm fits in.

[Grailer]

With 52.5mm WAM tires my frame clears a 3mm allen key on the NDS and 4mm key on the DS.

[Unsworn5836]

You may try measure the rim, not the tyre.
Tyre tolerances are ... well, not good.

1 mm offset at a lever of 350 mm is not a lot.
Any cycling industry itself is not well known for good tolerances.

[AG1]

You may try measure the rim, not the tyre.
Tyre tolerances are ... well, not good.

1 mm offset at a lever of 350 mm is not a lot.
Any cycling industry itself is not well known for good tolerances.

With the rim it is about them same proportion as with tire. non drive side about 19mm vs 15mm on the drive side.

[Japeke]

With the rim it is about them same proportion as with tire. non drive side about 19mm vs 15mm on the drive side.

That is too big difference.

And the width of the rear is 142mm? Wheel too?

[v0llhirsch]

Do you miss a spacer for your cassette or something?
Like the required 1,8mm spacer for XD cassettes on XDR or something for Shimano.
?

[emilioea]

Since you've already tested multiple wheels, this is unlikely the cause of your issues, but just to be 100% sure: try to install the wheel in reverse (e.g. disc-brake side on the drive side). If the wheel is incorrectly dished, you will now have the narrower clearance at the other side of the bike. If you still have the same clearances as before, then you can completely rule out issues with the wheel dish.

If you're suspecting that the UDH is not seated perfectly straight, then remove it and check for resin or paint in the dropout (which you may have to sand carefuly if that's the case). You can also try to measure if the clearance is meaningfully different when the thru axle is a bit loose vs fully tightened (e.g. test 2 Nm vs 12 Nm)

[Unsworn5836]

About to pull the trigger.
We will see... plan is to get a transparent carbon look, as I like to get stealthy.

Wheelset from already on the way, Tagoola XPLR.

[RDC]

Hi,

I got my frame (mondince FM326, size large) a few weeks ago and as I wanted to install my 2.1 Mezcal Tires in the I noticed back that I got way less space on the drive side to the chain stays, than on the non-dive side. That would result in not beeing able to use that size of a tire, since it would get to close for comfort.

Now my question is: Has anyone of you experienced the same issue? If, yes how did you solve it? My suggestion is, that there is some exess resin or paint beneath the UDH hanger, which makes it sit not completely perfect and therefore resulting in my tire sitting at an angle.

I also tested it with different wheels to make sure, the wheel is not the problem.

In the attached pictures you can see it with a 40mm road tire: on the drive side I can fit a 6mm hex key, on the non drive side a 8mm fits in.

Have same problem in L frame

‘patched’ by adding a washer  between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem

In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can’t be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH

[Japeke]

Have same problem in L frame

‘patched’ by adding a washer  between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem

In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can’t be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH

That's why I tried to ask to measure the width of the rear.
144mm. Why?

[AG1]

Have same problem in L frame

‘patched’ by adding a washer  between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem

In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can’t be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH

I now sanded away al the overspray in every critical area, changed the UDH hanger and also tried different torques when tightening the hanger. All of it with limited success, the difference got slightly less, but not enough.

I also measured my wheels axle which comes out at 142.5. I have a fair amount of play as well with this before tightening the througaxle - so the washer solution will be my next try.

How did you manage the hanger to still sit flat with the washer inbetween? And how thic is that washer?

[Unsworn5836]

anyone ordered pearl inside?

anyway, pulled the trigger today.
blue transparent, glossy. We will see, when it's here.

[AG1]

I now sanded away al the overspray in every critical area, changed the UDH hanger and also tried different torques when tightening the hanger. All of it with limited success, the difference got slightly less, but not enough.

I also measured my wheels axle which comes out at 142.5. I have a fair amount of play as well with this before tightening the througaxle - so the washer solution will be my next try.

How did you manage the hanger to still sit flat with the washer inbetween? And how thic is that washer?

I have tested the spacer method with a few SRAM pedal washers (for testing purposes only) between the endcap of my wheels drive side and the hanger. Worked out, wheel sits centered (as far as sticking in a hex key can measure that). What I find concerning, I had to use 2.4mm to get it about right, which seems a lot. Only need to get the right washer to put between the hanger and the frame now.

[Japeke]

I will check tyre clearance with thunder burt. If more space is needed on the drive side, I will make a longer endcap.
If tyre is centered correctly, i don't mind that a rear is too wide. Carbon fiber bends. 2mm is not much.

But if you use T-type derailleur you can't use washer or longer endcap?

However, the rear should be 142mm wide. 144mm is not correct.

[Alexbikes]

Just got mine. Anyone feel like the BB is very flexy under power?