Mondince new 2026 Aero Gravel

[Chiyou]

If you have a carbon repair specialist near you that can accommodate your time constraints, that would be ideal.

Failing that, I don't think you have anything to lose by attempting a home repair (other than time) - I'd try a product like Marston-Domsel (MD) Megabond 2000.
- You can fill the shallower gaps with the epoxy.
- Bond the big piece to the frame with the epoxy; wrap it with adhesive tape for curing (but don't wrap it too tightly, you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy). I wouldn't layer any carbon fiber material between the frame and the big piece.
- Layer some carbon fiber material around the area as you suggest.
- Leave yourself enough time for a few test rides once the repair is completed.

As a back-up plan, start researching a new local frame, or see whether maybe you can rent something where your holiday is?

[Horatius]

I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition


Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days

[Lotnik]

I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition


Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days

I received same info today. I'm moving my order to the 336 frame. Next two weeks of waiting

[Cedric_VB]

If you have a carbon repair specialist near you that can accommodate your time constraints, that would be ideal.

Failing that, I don't think you have anything to lose by attempting a home repair (other than time) - I'd try a product like Marston-Domsel (MD) Megabond 2000.
- You can fill the shallower gaps with the epoxy.
- Bond the big piece to the frame with the epoxy; wrap it with adhesive tape for curing (but don't wrap it too tightly, you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy). I wouldn't layer any carbon fiber material between the frame and the big piece.
- Layer some carbon fiber material around the area as you suggest.
- Leave yourself enough time for a few test rides once the repair is completed.

As a back-up plan, start researching a new local frame, or see whether maybe you can rent something where your holiday is?

Thanks for the info, one of my local carbon repair guys responded and he wil try to fix it.

[emilioea]

I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition


Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days

I'm glad I have the non flip-chip fork :-)

I have no idea why these flip chips are popular. Only a tiny % of people will really use it. I'd say, pick one offset, and go with it.

[AltecasLT]

I finally got my frame.

[Lotnik]

I finally got my frame.

Did you already contact Mondice in case of faulty fork? Will they replace it?

[AltecasLT]

Did you already contact Mondice in case of faulty fork? Will they replace it?

They wrote to me first this morning. When I asked what was wrong with the fork they said that "the old fork is good, but the fork leg may move during turning.
We will update it. No customer complaints about this. You can use the current fork. No quality issues."
I don't know what to do in this situation now. 

[Horatius]

Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!

[emilioea]

Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!

With GRX cranks and mechanical front derailleur it is fine with 50 mm tires.

Road cranks and FD sit 2.5 mm closer, which should also be fine, but I'd say on the limit. Electronic FD are bulkier, so it may be tight, but I haven't tested it.

[Kamool]

Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!

I run Terra Trails 45mm(measured) with SRAM Force AXS D1 FD with road chainline. 4-5mm gap to the FD battery.

[gribs]

With GRX cranks and mechanical front derailleur it is fine with 50 mm tires.

Road cranks and FD sit 2.5 mm closer, which should also be fine, but I'd say on the limit. Electronic FD are bulkier, so it may be tight, but I haven't tested it.

I'm using a 105 12spd mechanical mech with a Grx600 crankset and there's no problem using 50mm tyres (53mm measured). The mech doesn't actually stick out behind the chainstays.

[www]

Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack’s incredible support and responsiveness.

Took me about two days to fully build the bike and start riding it – already knocked out roughly 700 km so far!

Build Specs

Part	Spec
Frameset	FM316 – Size S
Wheelset	Zipp 303 Firecrest
Tires	Pathfinder 45
Stem	Deda Vinci 110mm + Garmin Mount
Handlebar	ENVE AERO IN-Route 37/42
Saddle	Prologo Scratch M5 PAS Nack 137mm
Brake Levers + Calipers	RX820 + BR820
Crankset	Dura-Ace FC-R9200 165mm
Rear Derailleur	RD-RX822 SGS
Cassette	XT M8100 10-45T
Chain	KMC X12
Disc Rotors	Shimano RT-CL900 160mm
Chainring	Passquest 48T plain w/ covers
Bottom Bracket	TOKEN T47 V24 85.5
Pedals	Dura-Ace PD-R9100 SPD-SL
Bar Tape	Ergon BT Gravel
Bottle Cages	Elite Leggero Carbon 2.5

Full build cost was around €2800 (±$3.3K), excluding pedals which I already owned.

Weight is around 8.6 kg including pedals, bottle cages, and the Garmin mount, which I think is pretty solid considering the cockpit isn’t integrated and the Deda Vinci stem is actually quite heavy (~350g with the Garmin mount adapter).

Frame color is black pearl / white pearl with a gloss finish, and I’m honestly really impressed with how it looks in person. The only minor downside so far is the quality of the stock bolts, which isn’t amazing. I already ordered a full set of Ti bolts from Wanyifa that should arrive later this week.

This is my second bike alongside an S-Works SL8 (size 54). Stack and reach are surprisingly close between both bikes, and the handling feels very similar as well, so adaptation was pretty much immediate.

A few people I ride with asked me why I went with GRX mechanical instead of Di2 or SRAM Force. I was actually inspired by Zach Calton, a US pro mountain/gravel racer, who praised the GRX 12-speed mechanical groupset quite a lot. According to him, shifting performance is flawless, the setup is lighter than GRX Di2, and the clutch mechanism does a really good job at limiting chain and derailleur vibrations on rough terrain – all of that at a fraction of the GRX Di2 price.

I fully integrated the shifting cables through the stem and handlebar, and honestly the shifting performance has been excellent. It's reliable and nearly as fast as an electronic groupset. Considering the price point, I’m extremely happy with it.

So far the only part I’m a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.

Will share more updates after a few longer rides!

[AltecasLT]

Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack’s incredible support and responsiveness.

Took me about two days to fully build the bike and start riding it – already knocked out roughly 700 km so far!

Build Specs

Part	Spec
Frameset	FM316 – Size S
Wheelset	Zipp 303 Firecrest
Tires	Pathfinder 45
Stem	Deda Vinci 110mm + Garmin Mount
Handlebar	ENVE AERO IN-Route 37/42
Saddle	Prologo Scratch M5 PAS Nack 137mm
Brake Levers + Calipers	RX820 + BR820
Crankset	Dura-Ace FC-R9200 165mm
Rear Derailleur	RD-RX822 SGS
Cassette	XT M8100 10-45T
Chain	KMC X12
Disc Rotors	Shimano RT-CL900 160mm
Chainring	Passquest 48T plain w/ covers
Bottom Bracket	TOKEN T47 V24 85.5
Pedals	Dura-Ace PD-R9100 SPD-SL
Bar Tape	Ergon BT Gravel
Bottle Cages	Elite Leggero Carbon 2.5

Full build cost was around €2800 (±$3.3K), excluding pedals which I already owned.

Weight is around 8.6 kg including pedals, bottle cages, and the Garmin mount, which I think is pretty solid considering the cockpit isn’t integrated and the Deda Vinci stem is actually quite heavy (~350g with the Garmin mount adapter).

Frame color is black pearl / white pearl with a gloss finish, and I’m honestly really impressed with how it looks in person. The only minor downside so far is the quality of the stock bolts, which isn’t amazing. I already ordered a full set of Ti bolts from Wanyifa that should arrive later this week.

This is my second bike alongside an S-Works SL8 (size 54). Stack and reach are surprisingly close between both bikes, and the handling feels very similar as well, so adaptation was pretty much immediate.

A few people I ride with asked me why I went with GRX mechanical instead of Di2 or SRAM Force. I was actually inspired by Zach Calton, a US pro mountain/gravel racer, who praised the GRX 12-speed mechanical groupset quite a lot. According to him, shifting performance is flawless, the setup is lighter than GRX Di2, and the clutch mechanism does a really good job at limiting chain and derailleur vibrations on rough terrain – all of that at a fraction of the GRX Di2 price.

I fully integrated the shifting cables through the stem and handlebar, and honestly the shifting performance has been excellent. It's reliable and nearly as fast as an electronic groupset. Considering the price point, I’m extremely happy with it.

So far the only part I’m a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.

Will share more updates after a few longer rides!

What size rotors are you running? And was an adapter needed for the rear brake?

[www]

What size rotors are you running? And was an adapter needed for the rear brake?

Both rotors are 160mm. And yes, an adapter was needed for the rear brake – I used the Shimano SM-MA-R160 D/D adapter.