Lets not make more bikes that have bayonet forks for the sake of having bayonet forks. You could see a million bikes like that at the eastern shows this year. These are usually a normal carbon steerer plus bayonet. This doesn't achieve the main advantage of a bayonet fork, which is to get rid of the carbon steerer and get a narrower front end like STROMM RAKTT, Cervelo S5, Colnago Y1RS and TT1, Factor Super One and Hanzo (track). A bayonet also adds a ridge in the cross section profile of the HT which is not great for aero and has to be carefully designed around. It can also give extra benefits when it comes to handlebar design and fit, but I imagine it would be off the table because it's too expensive of a system to develop properly for a brand like this, so it's better to just have a normal, deep HT that's as narrow as feasible.
I'm not sure how much integrating the stem with the top tube, like Ridley Noah Fast 3.0 and Dare VA-AFO without an accompanying stem to integrate properly with, which would just be even more expensive.
Not a fan of super deep rear ends any more, as they add a lot of weight, kill comfort and have limited aero effectiveness. Maybe best to do it like STROMM, make the upper part of the seat tube deeper and the lower part, seat and chain stays skinny. Maybe a seat stay design similar to (new) Argon 18 Nitrogen, Colnago TT1, Specialized Shiv as it can potentially improve rear end compliance and aero. Also don't make a down tube that hugs the front tyre like a lot of traditional aero bikes have. It's great at low yaw in a wind tunnel, but it breaks down with steering input, real world turbulence and yaw angles. Seeing more and more aero bikes with wider down tubes too, so maybe not a bad idea to give it some bottle shielding design.
In terms of geometry I'd like something along the lines of Dare VA-AFO for stack and reach, with a long-ish front centre, a steep seat tube (75° f.e.) and BB drop of 75 mm or more.
Please for the love god of no T47, it does nothing better than BSA with a proper BB. If it has to be T47, at least let it be T47-68. Prefferably no hidden thru axles, so that the thread inserts can be repaired and the thru axle removed if you fuck up one side of it. Can just make covers for them instead, like Seka. UDH probably a good idea too.