Seraph TT-X42 vs TT-X80

[NoChill1]

Hey everyone  ,

Just wanted to get on here real quick and seek help on deciding between these 2 bikes. I am almost definitely going to purchase one of these as they are on sale for approx 900USD which seems like a great bang for your buck. I'm a beginner and I dont want to commit too much money incase this hobby turns out to be a phase lol.

Both of these bikes look identical to me and are priced the same. The main difference is that the tt-x42 is well reviewed and overall has good feedback across forums and youtube, but the tt-x80 has almost no information out there.

It does seem like the xt-80 does have a more "aero" frame as per what the site says but I'm not exactly sure what makes it more "aero".

On another note: I can get the x42 with the shimano 105 mechanical groupset for 1068USD (170 USD more) as opposed to the wheeltop electronic shifters. Is this worth it or should I stick to the wheeltop?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys!

TT-X42:
https://www.seraphbikes.com/24-Speed-Carbon-Fiber-T1000-Disc-Road-Bike-TT-X42-With-Electro-Hydraulic-Groupset-Alu-Carbon-Wheels-optional-4447505356cm-p5701061.html

TT-X80:
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Newest-2X12S-Aero-Road-Bike-TT-X80-Wheeltop-24-Speed-Hydraulic-Di2-Groupset-Carbon-Wheelset-Complete-Bicycle-p6301637.html

[Chiyou]

I'll preface this by saying that USD900 falls in too-good-to-be-true territory, at least to my mind... but what do I know?

Regarding the aero question, I believe what they're referring to is the seat tube that hugs the rear wheel on the TT-X80 along with the wider fork. These features have the potential to increase aerodynamic performance but to implement them competently requires spending money on complex computer simulations and wind tunnel testing, something that likely didn't happen here given the price. I'd consider them 'cosmetic aero' - if you like the look of the TT-X80 and it makes you want to ride the bike more, go with that. Without the aforementioned testing, there is no way of knowing whether you'd move any faster or slower.

Two advantages of Shimano are: availability of replacement parts (I don't know how easy it is to get Wheeltop parts but read the Wheeltop thread on this forum to inform yourself) and brand recognition (may make it easier to sell the bike should you desire to do so). That said, I'd stick with electronic shifting.

Either way, check with TanTan that you're getting the latest groupset version. (Old 105 is 11 speed while new is 12 speed; I don't know about Wheeltop's version history, but presumably newer models will have incorporated improvements.) If you switch to Shimano, I'd hope that you get Shimano everything - including chain and cassette.

Some other things to keep in mind:
- Saddle and tires/tubes probably are all bargain bin specials, but easy to replace.
- Wear items (cassette, chain, bottom bracket) presumably won't last long, but again, easy to replace.
- Handlebar comes only in one size and may not fit you - more difficult and more expensive to replace.

[Frankie G.]

I have the TT-X80 if you have any questions brother I've ridden it at least 1000 Miles now after delivery in early December and I'm mostly still on the stock parts. Please ask away. This is my first real road bike.

My only thing to mention is if you go this route you will need to have tools and be at least a bit mechanically inclined.

Don't worry about the Wheeltop, it works really well as a first groupset and if you're coming from a mechanical shifting bike it will actually be a nice upgrade in quality of life. Some of the small hardware on the groupset is cheap and rusted after a few months of riding, I coated them in paint after cleaning off the rust to preserve the hardware(Where I ride is the salty ocean air). The crank arms started making noise at like 700 miles. Fixed with grease on the bolts. Tantan didn't include any of the torque specs for assembly so that was annoying for a newbie. There were some other small things that popped up across the 4 months I've had the bike now I can't remember. But 1000 miles later and I'm still on the same chain and cassette. New tires, it will fit a 32c rear and a 30c front. My preferred setup as the bike rides super stiff and has no flex anywhere accept the handlebar which for me is the worst part of the bike. I would definitely switch it out when I can afford to do so it sometimes also creaks a bit when I sprint. I had to align the brakes to stop disc rub after building. But for what I paid for this bike I really can't be upset with what I got. I got this bike as and entry level road bike for triathlon training and I would say I'm very pleased using it for training so far.

I've now taken this bike on lots of group rides and seen and ridden a few nice western bikes and personally for me this is likely the sweet spot. I can just upgrade this bike and be 90% of what I've tried from other brands. The bike isn't light but it will hold up nicely for training and group rides if you need to and you're strong. I get compliments on the looks of the thing all the time. I also bought this bike because I love the blend of scott foil and cervelo s5 looks, it has a very aero appearance.

This is a great start, it made me love riding bikes, and makes me want to build up an x68 with proper parts over time. And i'll still have this bike to ride and throw on the trainer if I want.       

[casper.f]

I'll preface this by saying that USD900 falls in too-good-to-be-true territory, at least to my mind... but what do I know?

To push back a bit: these frames originally sold for a very low price: around the $400 range. The TTX80, TTX40, and TTX42 were never popular on forums, and they’ve been sitting on the site for years. The TTX40, for example, has only 28 mm tyre clearance.

They’re older designs, laid up with budget carbon. That doesn’t mean a safety risk—just higher weight and/or lower stiffness compared to a high‑modulus frame.

I’d assume this is overstock, fitted with Wheeltop components (which are cheaper domestically than the prices we see in the West). The wheels aren’t premium, and the finishing kit looks like it was picked from a wholesale site, sorted low‑to‑high, just to get these frames out the door as complete bikes. Labour costs are lower too, so assembly is cheaper, though I can’t speak to the quality.

So if you’re willing to accept some brake rub, a less refined ride, and a dated design, this could work for you. If not, just grab an entry‑level Cube or Van Rysel.