SPCycle G028 new gravel frame with 57mm tires clearance

[tmhbrl]

How tall are you? I am 186cm with 89,7cm inseam and am thinking between M and L.

I am 183 and ride an M. I think with 186 I’d go for an L

[j3reun]

Is this a garbaruk aero chainring?

[Tijoe]

Has anyone installed a T47,width 85.5mm bottom bracket for a 30mm axle?  If yes, was it through Aliexpress or somewhere else.  What one do you recommend and/or purchase?

[Martinejant]

I am 183 and ride an M. I think with 186 I’d go for an L

Hello! Can you tell me the name of the handlebar? Thanks!!

[tmhbrl]

Hello! Can you tell me the name of the handlebar? Thanks!!

sure, its the Lexxon Unox

[Martinejant]

Hello. We bought 2 frames for my girlfriend and me (one size S, and one size L). We asked for custom paint, half in copper brown and half in sand beige. They send us some render images and it looks very amazing.

One question. Someone is using a road 2x12? Like Ultegra. I'm planning to use carbon crankset from Aliexpress with 50-34, and then 11-34 or maybe 11-36. My concern is about if its possible to use road crankset and road FD. Or maybe knows some carbon crankset with extra wide to use GRX Di2 FD?

Thanks guys! Now its time to wait for the frames... it'll be hard!

[Tijoe]

One question. Someone is using a road 2x12? Like Ultegra. I'm planning to use carbon crankset from Aliexpress with 50-34, and then 11-34 or maybe 11-36. My concern is about if its possible to use road crankset and road FD. Or maybe knows some carbon crankset with extra wide to use GRX Di2 FD?

Selecting the cranks for this frame is where I am at too.     First thing you need to figure out is what bottom bracket you want to install in the frame.   Our frames have the T47 standard with 85.5mm frame shell width.  This means that the frame is designed to fit a T47 "internal"  bottom bracket (Like Trek uses).  The second thing that will drive the cranks you purchase is if you want to run a 24mm or 30mm axle (SRAM DUB XL = 28.99 mm.)   24mm is typically for road, 30mm for MTB.  30mm is becoming more common on road for riders who use crank power meters.    (I prefer 30mm axles on all my off-road bikes.)   

Therefore as a baseline,  our frames are intended to run spindles that use the BB386EVO or PF30-long spindles - Roughly 104mm long.  This width allows one to use spindle spacers that will let you move the relative position of the chainrings back and forth to set-up the correct chainline.

The next factor in selecting your cranks is the chainline for this frame.  The chain-line will be different for a 1X versus 2X setup.  This is where I am at in my calculations for my bike. - Perhaps others have determined the chainline they used for either a 1X or 2X set-up.

Once you know what your chainline is, you need to find cranks with their chainring/s installed that will secure onto the spindle that lines up with the required chainline.   This is the process that will determine the "Q" factor of the pedals on the cranks.  Q factor is the lateral distance between the outside edges of the left and right crank arms. It dictates how far apart your feet are positioned horizontally when you pedal.   Roadies typically want to minimize the width,  MTB riders often ride bikes with much wider spaced cranks.  Part of this is that roadies want the optimal aerodynamics and a narrower Q factor helps reduce frontal drag.  MTB frames running boost rear frame spacing and wide tires require a wider chainline for tire clearance.

In summary, it would be nice for the others who have their G028 already on the road, to share their BB selection, spindle, chainline and cranks they used. 

[FlorianS]

The build is complete (for now), and I'm very pleased with everything.

– no major paint defects (only very minor little things here and there, but totally fine)
– no major hassle with the slight overspray at the brake mounts. I just used a flat file and made it flat in about 20 seconds. (the mounts are perfectly flat, it's just the little paint / clear coat overspray that is problematic when mounting your brake calipers.
– no issues with the bottom bracket threads or the seat post, everything went smooth

I used a mix of used and new parts, to keep the budget as low as possible (the goal was a beater gravel bike, oh well ...)
All in all, budget spent was somewhere around 2000€ (≈ $2300)
Build Weight: 8,3kg (18.3 lbs)
Ride-ready weight: 8,8kg (19.4 lbs) with pedals, garmin + computer mount, frame pouch and bottle cages


Frame: SPCycle G028 Size S, metallic silver (#4) → UD carbon fade
Cockpit: Rpantahi 360mm × 90mm
Wheelset: Elitewheels Gravel Aero+
Tires: Continental Dubnital 55mm (RideNow MTB Tubes)
BB: SRAM DUB Wide T47 | 85.5
Crankset: SRAM Force XPLR Wide 165mm
Chainring: WUZEI 44T
Levers/Brakes: Shimano 105 Di2 (ST-R7170) / BR-R7170
Discs: Dura Ace RT-CL900 160/160
Derailleur: Shimano XT RD-M8250 SGS
Cassette: Shimano CS-M8100 10-45
Seatpost: Elita One 27,2mm × 350mm
Saddle: Syncros Belcarra R SL
Bottle Cages: Titan Ultralight (AliExpress)
Bartape: Zipp Service Course CX
Bolts: Wanyifa Titanium (AliExpress)
Frame Pouch: Tideace (AliExpress)

[Tijoe]

I have a few more questions about rider's build out of this frame.

Has anyone built the frame as a 1X12?  If yes did you build it out using MTB components or Gravel/road components?

How many have built their bikes using 2X12?

I have both Wheeltop EDS TX and Wheeltop OX groups that I could use for my build.   If I go EDS OX, I would install a set of my "H" bars and run mtb based brakes.
If I use gravel bars, I would set up the bike using the EDS TX integrated brake/shift levers.

Thoughts?

[FlorianS]

I have a few more questions about rider's build out of this frame.

Has anyone built the frame as a 1X12?  If yes did you build it out using MTB components or Gravel/road components?

How many have built their bikes using 2X12?

I have both Wheeltop EDS TX and Wheeltop OX groups that I could use for my build.   If I go EDS OX, I would install a set of my "H" bars and run mtb based brakes.
If I use gravel bars, I would set up the bike using the EDS TX integrated brake/shift levers.

Thoughts?

I've built mine up with 1×12 using the MTB derailleur and cassette combined with the road shifters and brakes, see post before.

[MarioCanario]

I've built mine up with 1×12 using the MTB derailleur and cassette combined with the road shifters and brakes, see post before.

hey florian. lovely and clean  build. hows that WUZEI 44T Chainring?

[FlorianS]

hey florian. lovely and clean  build. hows that WUZEI 44T Chainring?

Did not have time yet to test it out. Since I only have a freshly hot-waxed chain, I can‘t really say much about noise or performance. It‘s flat, and the chainline seems to be perfect for Shimano GRX/XT Di2, which is nice.

Chainline SRAM: 47.5 (with 6mm offset chainring), but the Wuzei has a 4.2mm offset making it a 49.3mm chainline which is almost the perfect Shimano chainline of 49.7mm

[Martinejant]

If I mount the bike with a Sram Force XPLR 13v, i've to buy the Wide version, or the normal one? Thanks.

[impmonkey]

If I mount the bike with a Sram Force XPLR 13v, i've to buy the Wide version, or the normal one? Thanks.

Wide.

[Rufusz]

Anyone else having problems with the supplied headset?

Now I installed a 0.5mm shim to see if it helps - no luck.

Tightening the headset top cap does not preload the bearings enough, even with the shim installed steering is really smooth not stiffenig as it should.

During riding high speed if the front wheel hits an obsticle it makes one loud click.

During sprints or applying brakes no strange sound it only happens on major impacts.

I have no idea if its a faulty headset, frame or fork problem and would appreciate any input.

Contacted SP Cycle 5 days ago via email, no answer...