So, considering a typical road fit, how did you guys adjust the bar position as you moved the saddle forward if at all? One would assume you also bring it forward buy maybe that's actually a bad idea in terms of shifting weights on the hands / triceps fatigue.
No one really answered your question, so I will give it a go. It’s easier to do if you have something like. Kickr bike or Zwift bike with the mutiple crank length options.
Step 1: Move the saddle forward. I personally would do it until the pedal stroke feels like it’s getting a hitch going over the top. When that happens, you have 2 options. First, move the saddle back; second, lower the saddle. Both of them will close up the hip. They will load the glutes vs. quads differently. I would play with this across a few rides that push you into a fatigued state. I would pick the one that results in more consistent stroke and hip movement, comparing your results early in the ride and when fatigued. This is your new saddle position.
Step 2: Work out the back angle and check crank length. You want the back angle to be as low as possible. Luckily, this one is pretty simple. You will feel when it’s too low to sustain, so just move the bars up. If your knees are moving out or in as you pedal, I would consider a shorter crank and repeat Step 1. I think of step 1 as moving the range of motion. A shorter crank reduces the range, so if you do move to a shorter crank, you need to go back to step 1. The reason you should consider these together is that this is a paired optimization with a clear condition for checking the fit again.
Step 3: Set the front end. I think for a progressive fit this becomes straightforward. Using the back angle from step 2, drop the upper arms straight down or slightly forward with the forearms flat. Where your hands go is where you need the hoods. Find a stem-and-bar combo that works.
Step 4: Iteration to a new overall fit baseline. You need to reconsider steps 1 and 2 in light of step 3. This is functionally more of a check to make sure everything is still working as you expect. If you find that hand or wrist pressure is intolerable, that might be a reason to go back to Step 1, though I feel like even for people spending 6+ hours on the bike at a time, it's pretty rare. This is also the point where you should take the bike outside and check things like descending and uphill sprints to make sure the bike still feels good,
Step 5: Front end optimization. Once you feel confident that you have a new fit baseline, this is about taking notes as you ride and adjust accordingly. E.g., Upper back pain at the end of long rides, between the shoulders, might mean your position is too low. This is also where it might be a good idea to check aero things like arms coming out.
Hope this is helpful. It’s more or less how I do it.
Edit: I did this on a phone last night, so I fixed some formatting after realizing it's a bit hard to follow.