That's a really interesting point about the bearing fit.
Press fitting is actually a very delicate part of hub design and assembly. Even bearings with the same nominal size can have small dimensional differences between brands, so in theory, if you wanted the fit to be absolutely perfect, you'd need to machine the bearing seat in the hub shell specifically around the exact bearing you're using.
This is also one of the reasons I think bearing choice and hub tolerances shouldn't be looked at separately.
I've also seen quite a few ceramic bearings that felt rough or slightly gritty immediately after installation. My suspicion is that ceramic bearings may be more sensitive to installation damage. The ceramic balls are much harder than the steel races, so if the bearing is pressed incorrectly, or the installation load passes through the wrong part of the bearing, the steel races may be more easily damaged or distorted.
I don't know if that's the main reason yet, but it's definitely something I think is worth investigating.
If you do end up opening the rear bearing later, I'd be really interested to know what you find inside, especially whether there is corrosion, dirt contamination, race damage, or anything else that could explain the roughness.
For sure any kind of dirt influences the system. It's basically grinding.
I wanted to open the failed ceramic bearings... I am very sure I didn't throw them away, but just one day after the maintenance I couldn't find them. 
For the rear I try to be better..I usually open failed units to investigate what led to the failure.
I use 2RS sealed bearings, but I can't even tell you the brand
I have a good online shop, where I just order them and they are not specified with regards to the underlying company in most cases.. i don't go for the cheapest but also not the most expensive.
For the replacement I need to check if I have the correct sizes on my stock... maybe... but as I am perfect in procrastinating it could take a bit..i hate to exchange bearings.. sometimes they are too much pressed in which makes them sticky.. and if not pressed in enough the free hub touches them and you create a fixie unintentionally. 
Just for information, the shop where I buy all bearings (don't know how shipping is to other countries) .. they have also an amazing amount of headset bearings for super reasonable prices. If there's "ACR" in the abbreviation, I am very sure it is Acros. It has been like this several times now.
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/