I've built quite a few 505, as a versatile bike.
You can use on road, or gravel, just by swapping wheels.
It has very good handling and is looking great on both.
There are multiple things that surprise or sadden me here:
The BB86, they were offering the 505 in BB386
The chainstay length, compared to the geo drawing, don't you think they did put 650b wheels for the picture? The gap between the seat tube and tire is so huge.
The 30,9mm seat tube will be harsher than a 27.2.
For more dropper options? Oh my...
The headtube is not the usual tapered, but two 52mm holes, is this for full internal routing?
And I'm not particularly fond on the moustache look of the seatstays connection.
I'm still interested in those new Workswell frames, if I ever see any feedback.
I'm still interested in those new Workswell frames, if I ever see any feedback.
Which ones ? Do you have some links, pictures ?
The still best looking gravel frame I saw is this one, but it looks impossible to get it:Wie, nice! Can't you find the company online?
(https://i.imgur.com/i6vXijt.jpg)
Thanks for the reminder !Isn't that pretty much the 696 from Carbonda? But let's stick to the other dedicated thread
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2987.0.html
On their facebook page they have a picture from March, of the 208 that looks quite better than the CFR707.
(https://i.imgur.com/Asv1jZa.jpg)
Wie, nice! Can't you find the company online?It is a Taiwanese company if I remember well. Peter who was a great seller here for a while, told me he didn't like to work with them. I did find a couple of email addresses, but didn't get any reply.
Seems like 650b but can't identify the tire thickness.
Isn't that pretty much the 696 from Carbonda? But let's stick to the other dedicated threadYou see 696 frames everywhere :D
A lot of great OEMs buy in Taiwan, OPEN Cycles for example. I assume they don't reply because they don't want to deal with single private customers. They might only reply if you are an OEM or pretending to be one.Wie, nice! Can't you find the company online?It is a Taiwanese company if I remember well. Peter who was a great seller here for a while, told me he didn't like to work with them. I did find a couple of email addresses, but didn't get any reply.
Seems like 650b but can't identify the tire thickness.
A lot of great OEMs buy in Taiwan, OPEN Cycles for example. I assume they don't reply because they don't want to deal with single private customers. They might only reply if you are an OEM or pretending to be one.Wie, nice! Can't you find the company online?It is a Taiwanese company if I remember well. Peter who was a great seller here for a while, told me he didn't like to work with them. I did find a couple of email addresses, but didn't get any reply.
Seems like 650b but can't identify the tire thickness.
...ORA are Taiwanese and I don't think there's a better Steel or Ti frame builder in the world.
...ORA are Taiwanese and I don't think there's a better Steel or Ti frame builder in the world.
They look great indeed https://www.oraeng-tw.com/titanium-bike-frame.html
Did you get a frame from them, directly?
At least to Europe, air freight from China is back to normal.
Thanks for the information about ORA.
!PRE SALE -CFR707! Only 200 set
Pay a deposit of $100,You will get a gift package worth $66
1,A headset worth 15 dollars
2,A pair of F&R axles worth 26 dollars
3, An extra rear derailleur hangers worth 5 dollars
4.two carbon fiber water bottle cage worth 20 dollars
Pre-sale time:
the beginning of Thanksgiving and the end of Christmas
( 11/26 - 12/25)
Expected delivery date: May to June 2021
Pre-order with 6 month ETA. Hmmm. Also I assume this 'deal' iis limited to 200 sets. If the 707 is an LE, then the mind boggles.
Also, that reach is so insanely long for a bike that isn't particularly slack.
I guess it's great if you have really short legs ... but how many people with that kind of physiology are serious cyclists?
Check your spam folder, the answer maybe there.
Plus 1.5 on the ape index here ;)
its a bummer i missed the presale i want to get the pricing and order one of these but no one seams to be replying to my messages. I sent an email to info@carbonda and sales1@carbonda.com last wednesday. would the reason they're not responding be that their new year holiday is coming up in February or do i just need to wait longer?
Strange, I got a few replies from Wing this week and last week...
Could you ask Wing to check?
So I did.
My last message from her was 2 days ago.
Maybe we haven't had time to reply yet.
May I ask if they didn't receive the email the first time, or did they not receive the subsequent replies after receiving our reply?
Here's the reply I received today.
And answered with your additional comments( Snacks ) ???
more moder ...axle standards ...
I just put down a deposit for the frame version that takes an externally routed handlebar (US$495.00 with frame, fork, seat post, clamp). Sharing the diagram Wing sent me that shows the routing. Getting a headset for regular round spacers. Oh, and the flatmount bolts in the rear should be for 20mm chainstay width (so, 33mm).
By the way, interesting to see how close the geo is to the Canyon Grizl and Devinci Hatchet. Excited for some more modern geo & axle standards for my current gravel bike (built around an octane one kode frame, which has been fun but a bit limited).
(It's US$650.00 with the CGB02 integrated handlebar.)
Sorry for being vague. I guess it depends on your definition of “modern” :-D. My current cheapo steel frame is a bit of an abomination with horizontal dropouts with IS brake mounts with longer slots. It’s a nightmare to get the rear wheel to stay in place, even ;-)
I guess I should have listened when they said it was really for a town bike (that’s what I’ll convert it to))
I just approved the quote and will order as soon as they come back with the payment info. I went with an XL, external routing, and matt finish since I'm going to paint it myself. I'll post updates as the build (slowly) progresses.
My CFR-707 size S is painted! External routing (externally from handlebar into frame). Rainbow color. Shipping via DHL (7-14 days) is $160. Paid by wire transfer.Nice ! It looks like a sturdy bike, ready for everything.
@janmeyer Can you share your body mesurments? length and inseam?
I'm struggling on deciding which size i need, i'm 193cm with an 93cm inseam, when i compare this frame with my other (road)bikes it's long in reach. To get a comparable reach im in between L an XL.
I'm not an expert, but the bolts all feel very solid when tightening them. I've inspected the inserts that I can see internal in the frame and they look pretty solid (rivet nuts? no idea -- as I said, I'm not an expert :-)). I hope to one day go bikepacking with this, but no plans right now.
Weights:
Frame size S, rainbow paint (including RD hanger, cable routing liners, bolts in every mount): 1274g
Fork painted & uncut (bolts in every mount): 562 g
Seatpost + head (350mm): 184 g
| Frameset | Carbonda CFR707, XL, external routing | |
| Bare frame | CFR707 | 1,247 |
| Cable guides | Guides for running cables only, will be removed; estimated | -10 |
| Derailleur hanger | 19 | |
| Seat clamp | 36 | |
| Bottle cage bolts | (6) M5x12 mm w/ washers | 18 |
| Bento bolts | (2) M5x12 mm w/ washers | 6 |
| Rear fender mounts | (1) M5x12mm w/ washer, (2) M5x15mm, bridge | 40 |
| Grommets | 1 | |
| Rear axle | 173mm M12*P1.5*L15 | 39 |
| Frame Total | 1,396 | |
| Bare fork | 507 | |
| Rack bolts | (6) M5x12 mm w/ washers | 18 |
| Front fender mounts | (4) M5x12 mm w/ washers | 12 |
| Steerer expander bung | 58 | |
| Headset bearings | XLB P16, IS52/7/45 (top and bottom) | 61 |
| Headset other | 44 | |
| Front axle | 120mm M12*P1.5*L14 | 30 |
| Fork Total | 730 | |
| Frameset Total | 2,126 |
Hello,
I have just ordered a 707 frame.
I am planning to build the frame with SRAM Force 1x XPLR crankset. But SRAM produces "normal" and "wide" version crankset.
I want to use 38t or 40t up front and 10-44 cassette.
Which one will be better to use, normal or wide?
The still best looking gravel frame I saw is this one, but it looks impossible to get it:I think the brand ACCENT from Poland sold the frame in their product FERAL:
(https://i.imgur.com/i6vXijt.jpg)
I think the brand ACCENT from Poland sold the frame in their product FERAL:Wow. Nice find !!!
https://26bikes.com/shop/bikes/gravel-road/prod/accent-feral-carbon-20 (https://26bikes.com/shop/bikes/gravel-road/prod/accent-feral-carbon-20)
A few framesets are still available in Europe.
...Where do these washers fit?...
In general these washers are between the slotted ring and the dust cover.
When you compress the bearings, the dust cover sometimes rub the top of the frame.
Adding one or more washers add some space to have only the seal making a light contact with the frame.
May depend on the size. But comparing medium to medium, the 707 has a 11mm longer reach than your RCX, and 1.5 deg slacker head angle. The head angle would push the front tire another 12mm forward. So you'd have 23mm more toe clearance than you have now.
Did anyone who built up one of these feel the need to use foam tubing to reduce cables rattling within the frame?I didn't use any foam and I haven't noticed any rattling, I'll try to pay attention on the ride today. I think that I left the cables long enough (routed fully internal through handlebars) that they kind of stay pushed up against the frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/h8vYY5Ul.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RD9qT9Kl.jpg)
Did anyone who built up one of these feel the need to use foam tubing to reduce cables rattling within the frame?
Just received my 707 in RAL 1003. It will be a slow build but just so folks can see the frame. Signal Yellow with Pearl. Looks awesome.
The thin metal spacers are there to make up for imprecise tolerances in the headset, so that the top cap doesn’t rub on the frame. Typically you use just one, but by nature this will vary from bike to bike. The idea is to have a tiny, ~1mm gap between the top cap and frame but no wider than necessary.
Do you know about the headset top cap and if i should use a spacer underneath or if i can clamp it directly on the handlebar/stem combo?
I always just clamp it directly. If you get your math right cutting the fork, there should be a few millimeters between the bottom of the top cap and the top of the expander plug that's sitting in the fork, so you can get a proper preload, and a nice clean look. However, many people put a small spacer underneath, for two reasons:
1. It's easier. You don't have to be as precise in cutting the fork and can just put a bigger spacer in case you need more space for preloading.
2. Technically, it's safer, as it better aligns the clamping force of the stem with the support given by the expander plug. Without a spacer, the top of the stem is clamping an area that's less supported. However, if you use a torque wrench, you should be fine. I've never actually seen this being an issue in real life.
I have Shimano GRX 2x with the 46/30 crankset and an 11-46 cassette. The shifting isn't as good as my road bike with 105 and an 11-34 cassette, but it works, and I go up just about anything.
What rear derailleur are you using? The Shimano one is only rated up to a max cog of 42 and a max capacity of 31. Yours would need to handle a 51 teeth difference...
Absolutely beautiful, thanks for sharing!
Did you get Carbonda to apply the decals (meaning they are under the clear coat)?
How was communication and shipping?
Looking forward to some build details of that yellow rocket. ;)
I just put down a deposit for the frame version that takes an externally routed handlebar (US$495.00 with frame, fork, seat post, clamp). Sharing the diagram Wing sent me that shows the routing. Getting a headset for regular round spacers. Oh, and the flatmount bolts in the rear should be for 20mm chainstay width (so, 33mm).
By the way, interesting to see how close the geo is to the Canyon Grizl and Devinci Hatchet. Excited for some more modern geo & axle standards for my current gravel bike (built around an octane one kode frame, which has been fun but a bit limited).
(It's US$650.00 with the CGB02 integrated handlebar.)
Someone knows if the external routing is made by drilling the internal routed frame?
Quick non-drive-side picture of my fully integrated 707.
Super happy with how it rides.
Only minor downside is keeping the headset tight.
I can tighten it up without issues, but always seems to come loose again after a certain amount of time.
(https://i.ibb.co/g3bjC8c/IMG-20220825-143626.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vt0j8Gk)
Quick non-drive-side picture of my fully integrated 707.
(https://i.ibb.co/g3bjC8c/IMG-20220825-143626.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vt0j8Gk)
I am probably overthinking this but here is my quandary. I want "somewhat" clean look, in the sense that I do want internal cable routing but not all the way. I don't want to use integrated bar-stem that Carbonda sells with 707 but rather a separate stem and handlebar. From handlebar I wish to externally route cables into the stem, then into fork and frame to their respective destinations. In short the handlebar is external routing and rest is internal. Am I making myself clear or is it even possible? I sent this query to Wing and he sent me CAD diagrams of two different forks a)external routing where I can see there is a hole on the side of one of the arms of the fork. b) internal routing fork which has a hole in the middle of the fork stem.
Along with that he sent 3 different top cap pictures, one doesn't seem to have any holes in it while other two have holes. One of the holed topcap is "FSA standard" and other one is just 4 holes next to each other.
I haven't ordered yet but as a precaution added all three top caps ($5/ea anyway) to my quote along with fork with hole in the middle :o What else do I need to add.. spacers with similar holes for cables in them? I see that Velobuild sells GF-002 frame with independent stem/bar and is still able to hide cables also a user report confirmed that who built GF-002. Checked with Wing and he said they don't sell any such stem that allows internal routing.
... I use the top cap with the 4 holes and routed everything externally from there on out...By any chance. Do you have a picture when mounted?
took my newly build 707 out for its first real ride today, works like a charm, absolute pleasure to rideWhich size is it? I'm trying to figure out if I can mount an half frame bag on a size L frame with two bottles.
@helmat: Which stem are you using? Is that a Carbonda part?Looks like the Ritchey Switch ICR system.
Looks like the Ritchey Switch ICR system.Correct
Which size is it? I'm trying to figure out if I can mount an half frame bag on a size L frame with two bottles.Frame is a size L
Could any of the CFR707 owners check the frame clearance for a Stages Power Meter on their bike for me?
Good morning everyone.The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.
I'm in the process of ordering the CFR707 but I'm still not sure what size to order.
I am 178 cm tall and my leg length is 84 cm.
Previously I rode a Spec Venge 54 and currently a Trek Speedconcept in size M.
CFR707 will be my first gravel bike and I don't know whether to choose size M or maybe L.
The next thing to consider is the choice of steering wheel. Is it included with the integrated steering wheel or the bridge and the steering wheel separately, because I do not see the possibility of mounting a counter / computer, e.g. Garmin, on the integrated one.
Thanks in advance for all hints and suggestions
The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.
For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.
I used a Shimano Dura-Ace SM-BB-R9100 bottom bracket. It was only a little more expensive than the Ultegra one and slightly lighter. The bearings are smaller so I don't know how long it will last with the way I ride this bike, so I may step down to Ultegra next time.
I'm using the GRX cranks as well. The frame uses a standard 68 mm BSA threaded bottom bracket, so there are lots of choices.
My 707 has developed a hairline crack where the two seatstays meet (more or less). I'm hoping this is just a paint crack. I've reported it to Wing. Anyone else had this issue? I didn't use the mudguard fixing support but have fitted it now to add additional stiffness just in case. Picture of bike and crack attached.
The CFR707 can use an integrated handlebar and stem with internal routing or a conventional separate bar and stem. I set mine up with a standard handlebar and stem, so mounting accessories is no problem. I went with external routing to make the build and cockpit changes easier.
For sizing, it's worth comparing the CFR707 with your bikes in geometrygeeks, or by making your own spreadsheet. I used the stack, reach, and stem measurements from my road bike to determine which size CFR707 frame to buy. The XL frame has roughly the same stack as my road bike but a longer reach. I compensated with a shorter stem to get the bars where I want them. I could have made a L work, but sizing up moves the front wheel farther ahead. This makes the bike more stable and prevents toe overlap, even with 700x50mm tires. I'm 190 cm.
what's your inseam measurement? I'm about the same height
I haven't seen anything like that on mine, but I will keep my eyes out!
Out of curiosity, how many miles/kilometers do you have on it?
This is the thing, this is my third ride. I haven't ridden the bike much at all due to work, weather, and other responsibilities. I've probably put less than 150kms on this frameset.
TBH the bike looks great, and rides really well, but the build experience has been sub-optimal. The rear shifting is poor as I had to run a fully covered cable to the rear which has made the shifting very inaccurate (sometimes you have to shift down two gears then back up one to shift down, and vice versa).
I also have a CFR1056 and struggle with keeping the headset tight.
In fairness I also have a Yeoleo R12 which I'm building and the experience there has also been unsatisfactory.
...The rear shifting is poor as I had to run a fully covered cable to the rear which has made the shifting very inaccurate (sometimes you have to shift down two gears then back up one to shift down, and vice versa).
I also have a CFR1056 and struggle with keeping the headset tight.
In fairness I also have a Yeoleo R12 which I'm building and the experience there has also been unsatisfactory.
Your issues look solvable.
The poor rear shifting probably comes from the hose being chewed somewhere(if both cable and hose are new).
The headset not being tight, comes from either a nut not compressing the tube enough, or a star-nut not placed adequately and move when tightening.
Or there is not enough room for the steerer tube to go up when you tighten the top cap.
From the two above I bet your Yoeleo issues can be fixed too 8)
What a great bike that is!
How is the toe overlap with the 707? It's horrible on my 696. Size 54 frame, size 44 shoes and even after giving up my beloved midfoot cleat position the toe overlap is ridiculous. Can't really steer at low speeds
That's a nice colour. I like that grey. I presume no cracking on your bike near the join of the seat stays?I have no complaints at all.
My 707 has developed a hairline crack where the two seatstays meet (more or less). I'm hoping this is just a paint crack. I've reported it to Wing. Anyone else had this issue? I didn't use the mudguard fixing support but have fitted it now to add additional stiffness just in case. Picture of bike and crack attached.
Wing has been in touch to ask for more details so let's see if they stand by their customer service.
Finally I was able to build the two chameleon colored 707, mainly for parts availability, and... lack of time.
Here is the first one with:
Rival AXS shifters, Force crank, GX AXS rear derailleur.
With a CGB01 handlebar with FSA ACR stem.
Just to update. I showed my frameset to a Carbon repair specialist and they've confirmed there is a crack under the paint. >:(
The repair itself is not that expensive, but it does mean stripping the bike down and then having it repainted when it's repaired.
Wing has been in touch to ask for more details so let's see if they stand by their customer service.
Gutted this has happened, as I really like the bike and the colour and I really hope I don't have to scrap the frame as there aren't many frames out there that I like (that are priced reasonably).
Really bad news, what device was used to inspect the damage?
The Mk1 Eyeball of a very experienced carbon repairer ;D
I should the issue to a guy in the UK who has been making and repairing custom carbon products for over 30 years. He's confident it's a crack. Regardless, his view was that on a bike that is effectively new this damage should not be present.
I've had some communication with Wing at Carbonda. To be fair to them they've been pretty good with emails. We've agreed to watch the situation and see whether the crack increases or not. I've marked the edges of the line so I can see if it's grown in size. At some stage I will take it to our local MTB park and thrash it around some trails. If that doesn't kill it (or me) then I'll not worry about it too much. It would be a real shame to scrap the frame as I do really like it. If I had to replace it I think I'd go for the Orbea Terra H30 alloy frameset as it's a similar colour scheme (the Orbea is a shade or two darker but still pops in the sun). Anyway, that's a topic for another thread/forum.
Since your carbon repair dude already stated it’s a crack, are you not worried about a complete failure while riding? Seems like it could really throw you of if you were riding and could cause serious injury
You can also use an FSA ACR headset. Is there enough gap between the top of the compression plug and the top cap? I thought mine had enough of a gap, but the top gap sinks down into the stem more than other top caps I've used, so it turned out to not be enough. Added a few mm spacer on top and it tightened right up.
if i want to use my current post mount brakes on the carbonda cfr707 frame and use a 140mm adapter what size do i need on the rotors ? 140mm? I read something about min diam on the frame is 160mm
if i want to use my current post mount brakes on the carbonda cfr707 frame and use a 140mm adapter what size do i need on the rotors ? 140mm? I read something about min diam on the frame is 160mm
Before you do that, check if the rear triangle is tall enough to mount FM-PM adapter+post mount caliper. I had TRP Hy/Rd post mount calipers and they won't fit on my frame. Later on I found that many other frames have this problem because of dropped seat stays and manufacturers really want you to use native flat mount calipers. Some post mount calipers might fit worth doing a research before hand.
When you don't put a spacer below the caliper, you can put a 140mm disc on road/gravel bikes usually.
Here it is 160mm by default. 180mm if you put the usual spacer to go 140 to 160mm.
so if i use no adapter at all i should have 160mm rotors ( and flat mount brakes) on the cfr707
regarding shifter cable routing (external routing):
Can someone please clarify for me if the cable housing should be routed all the way through the frame or is the part inside the frame without a housing?
Hello, I believe that the cable housing should always pass through the frame, regardless of whether it is a fully internal or semi-internal routing frame. I hope this helps you.
Does the 707 have proper eyelets for full lenght mudguards? I'm contemplating between a 696 or 707 frameset for a commuter that I will use in rain and snowy winter conditions.
regarding shifter cable routing (external routing):
Can someone please clarify for me if the cable housing should be routed all the way through the frame or is the part inside the frame without a housing?
External routing - the cable housing for derailleur shifting only go up to the cable stopper on the down tube.
That's the thing, there are no cable stoppers on the down tube on the 707. Just inserts that let a cable housing pass through. It would be a clear "housing all the way" situation if not for the sliding plate for the inner cable i posted a picture of before.
I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.
Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.
I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.
Hi everyone!I didn't ask for any modifications to my frame. What is your concern with the mounting locations? I can fit two full size bottles easily with the standard mount locations, although I do have an XL frame.
I'm considering to buy 707 for my dream build and wondering whether some of you guys asked Carbonda for a small modifications on the frame? For example I'd like to lower bottle cage mount points on the seat tube (and down tube maybe?), so I don't need to use any cage adapters etc. I understand that it may interfere with front derailleur, but I'm going to go with 1x wireless AXS, so don't really care about it.
PS. I have a On-One Free Ranger, which is in fact Carbonda CFR696 and I really like it. One of the reasons why I like 707 is that it has full internal cable routing, and going wireless with it seem a good idea to me :)
I didn't ask for any modifications to my frame. What is your concern with the mounting locations? I can fit two full size bottles easily with the standard mount locations, although I do have an XL frame.
I didn't ask for any modifications to my frame. What is your concern with the mounting locations? I can fit two full size bottles easily with the standard mount locations, although I do have an XL frame.As mentioned by @Pedaldancer, if you are planning to use a frame bag with two bottles, it might not fit. I have a Carbonda 696 (size 54), which has a little more space in the frame, but I still needed to use a bottle cage adapter to accommodate the Apidura Racing Frame bag. In the photo, I'm using a 950ml bottle with the adapter lowered as much as possible, but without the adapter, it wouldn't even fit a standard bottle. I'm considering the 707 in size L, which has a seat tube 3cm shorter, leaving even less space. Of course, it's not critical, but I'm just wondering why they place those mounting points in those locations in the first place. Many other manufacturers have already addressed this issue for gravel bikes by placing mounts as low as possible. As for reaching the bottles from the lowest position during rides, I've never had any issues with it—perhaps I have very long arms.
696 owners, is it just me or is the toe overlap awful?
I think I'm well within the margin, size 54 frame, 44 shoes, 170mm cranks, 45mm tires on a 700c rim... Yet the toe overlap makes it practically unusable. I gave up on my beloved midcleat position but it's still not enough. Does nobody else have that problem?? I'm considering selling it for a new bike just because of this reason
Whom should I contact in Carbonda about purchasing the frame? Is it info@carbonda.com, or is it better to contact someone in particular?In my experience a year and a half ago, better to contact someone in particular.
I ordered a plain matte finish, if that is what you are curious about. It was pretty much flat black with very little (if any) carbon texture visible.
Hi
Anyone having picture on a carbonda cfr707 that is only clearcoated ( so you can see the carbonfiber )
I ran full housing for the rear derailleur past the bottom bracket and out the chainstay. For the front derailleur, I ran the housing to the stopper in that little rectangular plastic piece under the bottom bracket and then just the inner to the derailleur. I used a bit of the plastic guide that came with the frame to line the last little bit of the cable and hopefully keep dirt off.
Shifting has been good after getting it dialed in. The tension in the front derailleur cable holds that plastic part in, so I couldn't pull it out for the picture without having to loosen the cable at the derailleur.
I'm glad I opened it up for the picture. It looks like once of the inserts for the cover bolts is corroding so I will have to grease it really good.
...You can also deal with "wing" but i don't know the exact email
My CFR707 is completed, and here are some photos of the new bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oeXM3WUUDXkVLBxz9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/oeXM3WUUDXkVLBxz9)
For the paint finish, I chose RAL5004 with added pearl sparkle. Its effect under sunlight is absolutely perfect, shining and dazzling. However, the paint finish details are not particularly perfect, with slightly sloppy transitions, and the overall paint quality is passable, probably at a 7.5/10 level.
The frame is a semi-internal routing version, and I opted for the UDH hanger, which allows for maximum upgrade potential in the future without sacrificing support for standard derailleurs. The frame craftsmanship is flawless, with smooth inner walls. The only issue is that the cable guide cannot be fully inserted into the frame, which is related to my assembly sequence, and I can't solely blame Carbonda for the problem.
For the drivetrain, I chose the L-twoo GR9 hydraulic groupset. So far, it has been working well with precise shifting. I paired it with Shimano UR300 calipers and 180mm rotors for strong braking power. I also used the mineral brake fluid from EZmtb. They claim that this mineral brake fluid, labeled as #6, offers a lighter feel and can handle higher working temperatures compared to Shimano's original brake fluid. I will continue using this combination until any significant issues arise.
The complete configuration is listed in the last image, with all prices in Chinese Yuan and excluding shipping costs.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EyXH5r7nxEqRB6zd7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/EyXH5r7nxEqRB6zd7)
It's beautiful! Good to know that the 2.0 Race Kings will fit. What is the internal width of your rims? I have Maxxis Ramblers in 700x50 mm on 24 mm rims (internal width) and there's a bit of clearance but I wouldn't go too much bigger.
My wheel rim has an internal width of 22mm. However, the tire tread rubs against the rear chainstay of the frame. To resolve this, I applied a layer of transparent TPU protective film to the frame. The front fork does not need to worry about the same problem
I also have 50c Rambler tires, but I haven't installed them on the CFR707 yet. When I previously mounted the Rambler tires on the same wheelset, their actual width measured 47mm, slightly narrower than the current Rac King's 49mm. Additionally, the tread was less pronounced and easier to manage. Therefore, I don't think you need to worry about the width issue.
can anyone else report on the tire clearance? I was planning to buy Continental Race Kings 2.0 but am hesistant now after reading this. Carbonda lists the tire clearance at 50mm, so theoretically they should fit.
can anyone else report on the tire clearance? I was planning to buy Continental Race Kings 2.0 but am hesistant now after reading this. Carbonda lists the tire clearance at 50mm, so theoretically they should fit.I have 50mm Maxxis Ramblers on 24mm rims, and they measure right about 2" / 51 mm wide. There is about 5 or 6 mm clearance on the sides of the tires on the frame, and maybe a hair more on the fork. I wouldn't go any wider unless you know you will never see mud (2.1" is probably the absolute max with little extra clearance and perfectly true wheels.). I replaced the fender bold at the chainstay/BB junction with a flat head bolt to make it a little easier to get the wheel on and off.
I replaced the fender bold at the chainstay/BB junction with a flat head bolt to make it a little easier to get the wheel on and off.
The challenge I'm facing is deciding between two versions of cranks - DUB Road and DUB Road Wide. I've heard that DUB Wide was specifically designed to accommodate wider tires and address issues like the chain hitting the tire or the spindle contacting the chainstay. So, my question is whether I should opt for the DUB Road or DUB Road Wide version. I've seen some photos of DUB builds here, so perhaps someone can share their opinion on this matter.I think you should choose the Wide version.
Thanks in advance.
has anyone tried putting 650b's on their 707?I saw on Instagram that the brand PALU has a bike with the same frame as the CFR707. They have many photos of bikes with 650b wheelsets, which you can use as a reference.
I also have similar question. Does anyone use a shimano road groupset? Thinking of using a 105 DI2 groupset and not sure what the max tire width would be?I know someone who has a CFR707 with a full set of r7170 groupset paired with 35c tires, and he haven't encountered any compatibility issues.
Firstly I apologize in advance for my english as I'm not an english native speaker.Is the gap still present when you install the compression plug? Cannot tell from the photos.
I just received my new frame CFR 707 and starting to build it.
I went with an internal cable routing and chose the Ritchey switch solution with Switch headset, switch spacers and switch stem.
I saw that others have already installed this headset and stem.
The thing is that when performing the installation, using the upper bearing from Ritchey (or even using the upper bearing from Carbonda) there is an important gap between the edge of the compression ring and the top of the steering tube.
I measured this gap and it is approximately of 1,4mm.
I would like to know if you faced this issue on your side, and if it is the case what corrrective action dd you use.
I'm affraid that with such a gap, there will be dust and water ingress inducing premature wear and consequently more frequent maintenance to be performed.
Currently, I have two options in mind:
1- create a 3D printing specific washer with 1 mm thickness to be installed between the compression ring and the frame in order to reduce the gap
2- order for another stem which will be more compatible with this frame, maybe a Deda superbox. If such solution is taken, can I use the bearing and compression ring provided by Carbonda and use directly the deda top cover, or d I have to order the Deda compresion ring? If t is the case which one do I need to use 45°x45° or 45°x36°
I really thank you in advance for your help.
As I found this forum very useful, I will also try to share the differnt step of the buiding if it may help.
Is the gap still present when you install the compression plug? Cannot tell from the photos.In the provided pictures, the fork is not installed, consequently the expander and the top cap are not installed, however I don't think that the compression will permit to reduce the gap as all the part are in contact: bearing in contact with the frame and compression ring in contact with the bearing. In any case, whatever the compression torque applied on the compression plug, this will not (or very slightly) impact the gap due to the original design the of ritchey compression ring.
Good morning everyone.
I'm in the process of ordering the CFR707 but I'm still not sure what size to order.
I am 178 cm tall and my leg length is 84 cm.
Previously I rode a Spec Venge 54 and currently a Trek Speedconcept in size M.
CFR707 will be my first gravel bike and I don't know whether to choose size M or maybe L.
The next thing to consider is the choice of steering wheel. Is it included with the integrated steering wheel or the bridge and the steering wheel separately, because I do not see the possibility of mounting a counter / computer, e.g. Garmin, on the integrated one.
Thanks in advance for all hints and suggestions
You can specify the routing you want when you order. You can probably request a port on one side only if you want to commit to 1x.
- For owners, do you think size m is ok for 170 cm tall and 80 cm insteam?I'd say no. Unless you want a very relaxed position with short stem, M will be be way too big, especially tall headtube.
thanks
I'd say no. Unless you want a very relaxed position with short stem, M will be be way too big, especially tall headtube.Thanks for your advice.
You will surely be better on S size.
Is it right? I always ride mtb and never teste road/gravel bike, so is quite difficult to understand geometry tableDon't worry 8 to 10 cm saddle to bar drop is pretty common for a dropbar bike.
Don't worry 8 to 10 cm saddle to bar drop is pretty common for a dropbar bike.Thanks again.
You can always add spacer if you're not supple enough to handle a road position but you can't cut a headtube^^
To me, in the case of the 707, for 170cm tall, M size is too long and too high front end.
S is the better option, XS can do the job too but at the price of an agressive position which i won't recommend to a newbie.
And it's be better not to get a combo handlebar as it's your first experience in dropbar bikes.
I'm 175cm with 82cm inseam. Saddle height is usually 74.5cm. I run a M with a 90 stem and 10mm spacer which rides like an endurance bike. For gravel I'd swap to an 80mm stem. This seems fine for 3-4hr rides. For reference my road bike is a TCR with same saddle height, 100mm stem and 90mm drop to bars. A small 707 would have been fine for more speed and aggressive handling but I'm OK with a M.Thanks.
Thanks again.I'm 174, my gravel is a gra02 size 54(medium), saddle height 72.5, 100mm stem and 2,5 cm of headset cover +spacer.
Just to have an idea and compare different frames, around which value of reach/top tube I should stay in order to obtain neutral/comfortable position (not race or aggressive)?
If you look at the Giant Revolt as a comparison to the 707 in a medium, the Reach is almost the same (3mm longer on the 707) but the Stack is lower on the 707 by about 11mm. I am 175 with roughly the same inseam and I think the 707 is a perfect fit in a Medium for me with a 90mm stem. I would even go for an 80mm, but not for the length, just to try the ride dynamics. I think if you ride a 56 Tarmac with a 90mm stem, then a 707 with a 90mm would be fine.
As far as cost is concerned. I think I paid about $1700 for both a 707 and 1056 painted and shipped to the UK during 2021 (so around C19 times when things were pricey). For me that was worth it for two decent bikes but you might disagree. I really like them both. The paint work is a bit 'meh' on the 1056 but I'm going to have that repainted anyway.
Thank you! Did you negotiate with them to get those prices or were they just the prices you were quoted? I assume ordering direct via email is the best option vs some secret AliX store?
In case anyone is wondering about current prices...For reference, my 696 was $480 and extra hangers were $5 and I'm pretty sure they use the same hanger. Headset was $12, I think it's also the same. Axles were $26 but I decided not to get them after reading they were flexy
CFR707 w/ Bar - $650
headset - $15
axles - $26
spacers $5
hangar - $8
shipping to US $190
paint $95
+ transaction fees on payment are approx 5%
All-in will be over $1k. Not bad but definitely more than I was expecting for an off-brand china frameset.
In case anyone is wondering about current prices...1k gets you a nice, little used Trek frame that you would be able to sell off easily later. Compared to late 2022 these prices are up by a $100 I think. Back then it was expensive than VB GF002 by a good US$200 all in. Arguably Carbonda paint jobs are better than most other open mold companies but I doubt it is 2x better than what VB did on my frame.
CFR707 w/ Bar - $650
headset - $15
axles - $26
spacers $5
hangar - $8
shipping to US $190
paint $95
+ transaction fees on payment are approx 5%
All-in will be over $1k. Not bad but definitely more than I was expecting for an off-brand china frameset.
If this has been covered in the thread, I can’t seem to find it (except for one guy who tightened it to 5nm)…what torque are people setting the integrated seatpost clamp bolt to? I don’t want to over torque but I know some people have had trouble with slippage.I'm using about 5nm on my seatpost clamp. I also used carbon paste liberally l.
I’m using an alloy zero-offset post (Raceface Turbine) in my build so I guess carbon paste isn’t as necessary but my plan is to use some on the back of the post and leave the contact area with the internal clamp dry.
Hello Carbonda 707 fans.
I've got one ordered, what is the quality like of the seatpost hardware?
Worth upgrading?
And how have most people found the brake mounting areas, do they need facing?
Thanks
...Could you help me figure out which size would be a better fit? Thanks in advance!
Coming from a 696 and wanting some more clearance and descending confidence. A little sad that it seems this frame can't do a RaceKing 2.2".Did you try?
I’m using an alloy zero-offset post (Raceface Turbine) in my build so I guess carbon paste isn’t as necessary but my plan is to use some on the back of the post and leave the contact area with the internal clamp dry.
Did you try?
I've got Schwalbe Thunder Burts in that measure 52mm and there's room to spare.
Hi all,
I bought this fully internal frame too and built it up with an Shimano GRX 820 (1x) mechanical groupset with the 10-51 cassette. The build went really easy until I got to adjusting the deraileur...
I can't get it to work properly... It shifts very inconsistent.
Is there anyone with tips to get it to work properly? (Maybe a youtube video I haven't found yet) I am affraid that the cable is routed to tight through the frame :( I used the deraileur outer cable completely through the frame and handlebar.
Thanks in advance...