Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: spcycle on February 26, 2024, 12:05:29 AM
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Dear All:
Attached some information for the new disc brake frame SP-R065.
Thanks for the supporting and interesting.
For this Frame some inforamtion listed:
Model: R065 700C Full Carbon AERO Road Disc Brake Frameset
Components: Frame, fork, integrated handlebar, seatpost, seatclamp, headset, spacers, thru axle
Frame Size：XS/S/M/L/XL
Weight: Frame Size M: 1050±30g, Fork: 410±20g, SP:210±15g, Handlebar: 370±15g (420*90mm)
Head Tube: 1 1/2" – 1 1/2" (upper 52mm lower 52mm, )
Fork: Full internal cable routing, 45mm offset, steering tube diameter 28.6mm.
Default Handlebar: HB-053 Full internal cable routing, Stem angle -9 °, drop 130mm, reach 75mm with DI2 hole
Available sizes of handlebar: 400x80/90/100mm, 420x90/100/110mm, 440x110/120mm
Seat Post：Specific 300mm length, 0mm offset, Compatible with 7 * 7 and 7 * 9mm rails
Bottom Bracket: T47 thread, BB shell width 86.5mm
Max Tire: 700*32C
Brake Type: Flat Mount Disc Brake
Rotor: Front 160mm, Rear 140mm
Dropout O.L.D： Rear Φ12*142mm, Fork Φ12*100mm
Suitable Derailleur: Di2 And Mechanical Both
Testing Standard: ISO 4210
Any interesting and pre-order of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
Other molds please check our website.
www.sp-cycle.com
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Nice!
Looks very much inspired by the Aeroad. I would be interested to see if it excepts other, similar integrated handlebars. Deffinately on my shortlist for an aero frame.
Mikey.
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Looks pretty good. Definitely looks like the Aeroad which isn’t a bad thing because that’s a sexy bike. Really short stem options and wide bars without any narrow options so I would need a new cockpit that fits. Wish they would start making narrow bars with longer stem options (38/120). Curious what the derailleur hanger options are for a direct mount RD. What’s the price?
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Hi Eddy,
Currently at £486 on AliExpress. I agree about the handlebar / stem combo. I Currently use 38 / 110mm but considering 36 / 110mm. My current cockpit is a Og Evkin HB1300. Big fam of this and would be great if it was compatible with the Spcycle frame.
Mikey.
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Hi Eddy,
Currently at £486 on AliExpress. I agree about the handlebar / stem combo. I Currently use 38 / 110mm but considering 36 / 110mm. My current cockpit is a Og Evkin HB1300. Big fam of this and would be great if it was compatible with the Spcycle frame.
Mikey.
Yea I noticed you can save some money if you order it without the cockpit, which is nice since it would just gather dust in the garage. Price isn’t terrible. It’s definitely on my short list. Still eating until the Taipei Bike Show to see what’s new. Rumor is that Bross will be selling the Zenith aero bike to other countries (like me in the US). So if they do I’d probably go with that. But this is a decent option for a lot less money.
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Yep same here, the Bross Zenith I'd top of the list at the moment. Just waiting to see how I can get hold of one here in the UK. Looks like I will be racing crits on my SL7 copy for the first half of the season. Not a terrible thing, however was wanting an all out aero beast!!
Kind Regards,
Mikey
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Dear All:
Attached some information for the new disc brake frame SP-R065.
Thanks for the supporting and interesting.
For this Frame some inforamtion listed:
Model: R065 700C Full Carbon AERO Road Disc Brake Frameset
Components: Frame, fork, integrated handlebar, seatpost, seatclamp, headset, spacers, thru axle
Frame Size：XS/S/M/L/XL
Weight: Frame Size M: 1050±30g, Fork: 410±20g, SP:210±15g, Handlebar: 370±15g (420*90mm)
Head Tube: 1 1/2" – 1 1/2" (upper 52mm lower 52mm, )
Fork: Full internal cable routing, 45mm offset, steering tube diameter 28.6mm.
Default Handlebar: HB-053 Full internal cable routing, Stem angle -9 °, drop 130mm, reach 75mm with DI2 hole
Available sizes of handlebar: 400x80/90/100mm, 420x90/100/110mm, 440x110/120mm
Seat Post：Specific 300mm length, 0mm offset, Compatible with 7 * 7 and 7 * 9mm rails
Bottom Bracket: T47 thread, BB shell width 86.5mm
Max Tire: 700*32C
Brake Type: Flat Mount Disc Brake
Rotor: Front 160mm, Rear 140mm
Dropout O.L.D： Rear Φ12*142mm, Fork Φ12*100mm
Suitable Derailleur: Di2 And Mechanical Both
Testing Standard: ISO 4210
Any interesting and pre-order of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
Other molds please check our website.
www.sp-cycle.com
Do you do custom paint and (own, not fake) logo's?
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Anybody take a chance on this frameset? Might order one and see how it goes. Wondering if they offer a direct mount derailleur hanger and custom paint to make it more enticing. @spcycle
Dear All:
Attached some information for the new disc brake frame SP-R065.
Thanks for the supporting and interesting.
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Hi Mikey, We sell the without handlebar version. This frame is compatible with other brands of handlebars. thank you
Looks very much inspired by the Aeroad. I would be interested to see if it excepts other, similar integrated handlebars. Deffinately on my shortlist for an aero frame.
Mikey.
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Sorry, we have not developed direct mount rear derailleur hanger for R065 frame.
Looks pretty good. Definitely looks like the Aeroad which isn’t a bad thing because that’s a sexy bike. Really short stem options and wide bars without any narrow options so I would need a new cockpit that fits. Wish they would start making narrow bars with longer stem options (38/120). Curious what the derailleur hanger options are for a direct mount RD. What’s the price?
[/quote]
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We offer custom painting services. But we have not developed direct mount derailleur hanger for R065 frame.
Anybody take a chance on this frameset? Might order one and see how it goes. Wondering if they offer a direct mount derailleur hanger and custom paint to make it more enticing. @spcycle
[/quote]
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Ordered a frameset with handlebar, size M in a darkblue metallic paint which I'm eagerly awaiting delivery on.
Will build it up with Elite Wheels Drive 50mm, Dura Ace 12sp and Favero Assiomas Duo. Fingers crossed it will come in around 7.6-7.8 kg with pedals, bottle cages and garmin mount.
Was contemplating going deeper on the wheels just for the aeeeeeeero look :) but settled on the 50mm as I have on most of my bikes. Live in a windy area with rolling terrain but no major climbs in terms of length.
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Looks like there's plenty of clearance for a front fender
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Ordered a frameset with handlebar, size M in a darkblue metallic paint which I'm eagerly awaiting delivery on.
Will build it up with Elite Wheels Drive 50mm, Dura Ace 12sp and Favero Assiomas Duo. Fingers crossed it will come in around 7.6-7.8 kg with pedals, bottle cages and garmin mount.
Was contemplating going deeper on the wheels just for the aeeeeeeero look :) but settled on the 50mm as I have on most of my bikes. Live in a windy area with rolling terrain but no major climbs in terms of length.
I'm sooo close to pulling the trigger and getting this ordered. Any idea on the wait time with the custom paint option??
Mikey.
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Any chance SPcycle will do a lightweight climbing frame with T47 bottom bracket and 32c tire clearance? I know there's the SP-053D, but I'd prefer not to go with a BB86 frameset. I have an older SP-027D which I'm quite happy with. Though I might be interested in getting a climbing frame in the near future.
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I'm sooo close to pulling the trigger and getting this ordered. Any idea on the wait time with the custom paint option??
Mikey.
Ordered 27th of April and got the notification that it was shipped on the 8th of May.
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Any chance SPcycle will do a lightweight climbing frame with T47 bottom bracket and 32c tire clearance? I know there's the SP-053D, but I'd prefer not to go with a BB86 frameset. I have an older SP-027D which I'm quite happy with. Though I might be interested in getting a climbing frame in the near future.
I have an older SPCycle frame (SP-R05) with a BB86 BB. I got a Wheels Manufacturing threaded BB and it's "almost" like having a T47 - practically no real difference. All the ease of use, but also replaceable if there's thread damage. BB86-OUT-24mm for 24mm, BB86-OUT-SRAM7 for SRAM
-the other other JonathanF
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I ordered one the other day. They only have one size in stock (51), and the lead time for the black matte finish is 40-50 days.
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They told me they have all sizes in stock just yesterday.
I also added this bike to geometry insights!
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Got my frame last week, cant understand how the di2 battery should be mounted there is no hatch like on the aeroad. Has anybody built this one up with di2? Says in the spec that it should be compatible.
Paint quality is pretty poor with a lot of dust particles and overspray under the clear coat. There is also a wrinkle where the seat stay attaches to the seat tube, does not look to good. Paint around seat post hole is not looking to good either with some few chips.
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Sorry to hear that. Makes me rethink my wish to purchase this bike frame.
Could you share pictures of the color and those imperfections or the dust underneath the clear coat? I am considering dark blue, purple metallic or the blue, purplish chameleon color but can't find a decision.
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Got my frame last week, cant understand how the di2 battery should be mounted there is no hatch like on the aeroad. Has anybody built this one up with di2? Says in the spec that it should be compatible.
I asked them about that. That was the answer:
The battery is fixed inside the frame down tube. We do not provide battery clamps.
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Got the same answer about the bracket and position. My frame was not even drilled for the battery mount though. Very poor quality control. Will take some pictures and post when I get home.
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Got the same answer about the bracket and position. My frame was not even drilled for the battery mount though. Very poor quality control. Will take some pictures and post when I get home.
I have wrapped up the battery in a sponge for another bike. It expands and holds battery well enough. Hope it solves your problem
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I finally ordered my R065 frame yesterday. Came down to $620 due to a $80 discount code. I'm curious, how the blue-purplish chameleon color (chameleon 1) will turn out on this frame, especially at the big tubes. Decided to go with a chameleon color die to the reports on this forum that clear coating might be better on those in comparison to any other paint-jobs. Let's see.
Price includes handlebar and shipping (seller's shipping method) so that it should arrive without any further costs, hopefully.
I will share my build starting in August with an SRAM Force D2 and Yuanan wheels. If a hole for Di2 cables is really missing on that frame it shouldn't bother me, at least.
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After buying the frame and delaying delivery I'm currently try to find a mount for my Wahoo ELMNT Bolt and a bottom bracket, which fits the frame.
In case you're interested: SP Cycle was communicating a time of 10 days from payment till shipping and another 20 days for the shipment itself. No idea if that's reasonable or realistic, but I had to delay it for a least two weeks, since I'm off on vacation on the estimated date of delivery.
Besides that: anyone with a suggestion for a bottom bracket, which isn't crazy expensive? Found those of Zitto and Kactus so far but not really convinced, yet. Can't even figure out, which Zitto it would need for DUB (SRAM's 29mm) and 86.5 width of the frame. Would be happy if you can make the decision a bit easier.
Same for the mount for Garmin/Wahoo. SP-Cycle states that HB053 is ready for those mounts, but to me it's not clear with the provided pictures, where it's supposed to be fixed. Anyone with building experience on that particular handlebar?
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Long time lurker first time poster
Can you guys post pics of your frames?
Deciding weather to buy this frame or dcrf26
Same for the mount for Garmin/Wahoo. SP-Cycle states that HB053 is ready for those mounts, but to me it's not clear with the provided pictures, where it's supposed to be fixed. Anyone with building experience on that particular handlebar?
I previously asked them about mount they sent me this link
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804993229212.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.115.3f537b7dIShInv&algo_pvid=846b8f28-0f05-4f62-8157-93a1dc3c34d3&algo_exp_id=846b8f28-0f05-4f62-8157-93a1dc3c34d3-57&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000031992329014%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2116.88%212.89%21%21%21%21%21%402145280e16799919160396883d06eb%2112000031992329014%21sea%21US%21202147902&curPageLogUid=QAQo0bCB0RID
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That's not really what I was hoping for but at least, it's a point to start from. Doesn't look like that piece is made for Wahoo, but there doesn't seem to be anything similar on AE. I will order one of those mounts and try to adapt it to my needs. Seems to be quite heavy. Starting in August I will try to 3D-pribt a mount, maybe without those screws beneath. Anything but aero ;D. I'll share it, when done.
PS: A mount for Specialized Venges SL7 handlebar shouldn't fit? That would give us plenty of options. But both handlebars should have a thread up front.
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@loketoken mind sharing pictures of your frame?
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I'd also be curious about actual images of the frame / bikes :)
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I am still building mine. I'll try to share some pictures of the bike within the next few days.
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Just received mine. Size L, unpainted, asked seller to leave carbon weave visible
Frame 1097g, with bolts and hangers 1149
Fork 408, seatpost with clamp 231
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Looks like some quite sharp remains near the headtube to me :o
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thank you for sharing! sucks that it came with primer despite your request. the facing on the chainstays looks strange as well. either its not done parallel to the through axle or those through holes are not perpendicular to the axle.
Just received mine. Size L, unpainted, asked seller to leave carbon weave visible
Frame 1097g, with bolts and hangers 1149
Fork 408, seatpost with clamp 231
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Could someone tell me how the di2 battery is supposted to be mounted in this frame? Do i understand correctly that spcycle says its to go into the downtube, but there is no hole/hatchet on the bottom of the bb/dt area to access the downtube? And the seatpost is too slim to fit the battery?
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Ghetto drop in the seat tube, that's what i did. i actually 3d printed a hook that i epoxied (?) on the battery so i can fish it out with a metal coat hanger, but on other frames where the battery actually fits in the seat tube, the packing tape i used gets loose and the battery ends up sliding in the seat tube as well, without a hook, so you then have to go fishing for it.
Either way, works fine. Haven't had rattling problems. I'm sure some are doing more elegant things, but i'm not elegant, and if it works, i'm happy.
Do you own this frame?
I'm asking because of the stuff mentioned earlier in this thread.
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Ghetto drop in the seat tube, that's what i did. i actually 3d printed a hook that i epoxied (?) on the battery so i can fish it out with a metal coat hanger, but on other frames where the battery actually fits in the seat tube, the packing tape i used gets loose and the battery ends up sliding in the seat tube as well, without a hook, so you then have to go fishing for it.
Either way, works fine. Haven't had rattling problems. I'm sure some are doing more elegant things, but i'm not elegant, and if it works, i'm happy.
That head tube area looks horrible, while the walls look pristine, it's weird. It looks so bad it makes you wonder if it could afftect headset stiffness, because i'm pretty sure given how clean the walls are, you're not supposed to have that kind of material bulging there. You'll probably want to file it down a bit to remove sharp edges, otherwise your hoses will have a very rough time, and so will you feeding them through.
Section of cable tie forming a loop attached to the battery with 1-2 other cable ties would do it as well.
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on my frame just 2 holes in down tube
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thank you, that's what i was looking for! guess i will have to 3d print a bracket for the battery if i get this frame (i prefer to not have it in the seatpost since i will have to remove the latter for transportation).
fiy, i've messaged spcycles about this and they sent me pretty much the same picture showing the two holes, but they are also working on a sl8-style mounting solution, where the battery is mounted under (not inside) the seatpost with a special bracket
on my frame just 2 holes in down tube
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I finally finished my built and I'm quite pleased.
Bought the frame via AliExpress, as a promotion made it a bit cheaper than buying on SP-Cycles website. Turned out to be 650 USD or 590 EUR including handlebar, chameleon paint job and shipping without additional fees. Shipping only took 15 days to Germany. I ordered too early and was on vacation, so that I asked SP Cycle to delay the shipping as long as possible.
Unfortunately, a couple of spacers and one screw to fix the derailleur hanger were missing. Those were send immediately, after a short notice via AliExpress messages. I also had a couple of questions about the built, which where always answered within one day. So I'd really recommend buying via AliExpress. Communication has been flawless
The paint job looks awesome and is close to perfect. I only had one imperfection near the seatpost, but you have to know where to look and use a magnifier to find it. The clear coating seems to be sufficient, too. The blue and purple chameleon paint seems to be forgiving some minor scratches as well, so absolutely recommend it. I was also thinking about getting a silver chameleon, like many of you got on your Velobuilds, which I was offered on demand. Additional cost and pictures of the blue and purple changed my mind, though.
My build features a SRAM Force D2 groupset, which I bought incrementally via eBay, on sale and of private offers. That way, I ended up with 2600 EUR for the complete bike (excluding Favero Assioma). It's 8,0 kg overall including pedals, bottle cages and wahoo mount as well. Pretty satisfied with the weight at size L of the frame. In terms of the mount for Wahoo or Garmin, there only seems to be one option for the handlebar. I tried something else but failed. If anyone is interested, SP Cycle will point out the right part as well.
My fork weighs 430g, handlebar 410g. Unfortunately, I didn't weigh the frame itself, since I was a bit impatient. It's 1685g including seatpost & thru axles.
The inside of the frame didn't look bad at all and I didn't have any sharp edges near the bottom bracket, seatpost hole or headtube. T47 thread.was perfect for me as a novice to building a bike. Used a Ztto bottom bracket as there isn't much of a choice with DUBs 29mm at 86mm.
There are holes for Di2 cables at front and read derailleur, which are useless for me. Whole frame looks well planned. Of course I bought the frame, because it looks a lot like Canyon Aeroad, which I really like. I have no idea, what the two hole near the bottom bracket are used for, though.
No problems with the seatpost. No slipping, no sounds of the frame. Only problem I experienced on the built was the use of a Deda headset expander. I couldn't fit the Deda into the forks tube since it's just one milimeter too narrow, so that I had to stick with the expander, which was delivered with the frame. Used the ahead cap of the Deda at least.
As far as I can tell it's only thumbs up from my perspective. Have to add that it's my first carbon frame, so I am not rating stiffness, since I don't have much of a comparison. Really like the feel overall, though.
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Any thoughts or questions I could try to answer, yet?
One thing I didn't like mich, was the design of the spacers for the headset. The way they are designed, you always have to fully disassemble brake hoses completely. I had to add one spacer and simply cut a tiny bit out in the middle, so that I could add and remove those a bit more easily.
Maybe the handlebar is also interesting to someone. I plan to add a hideout for my Airtag somewhere down there as well.
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I would be interested to hear wheel and tyre clearance. Is it possible to measure inside width at fork, seat stays and chain stays around where the tyre sits as well as ~30-40mm further towards hub (around to where the widest point of the rim would often be)?
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Only measured fork and seat stays so far. Chain stays will follow. Measured with my wheels inside. Those are 75 mm high from inside of the rim to the top of the tire. So it's 75 in between the measurements.
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Just received mine. Size L, unpainted, asked seller to leave carbon weave visible
Frame 1097g, with bolts and hangers 1149
Fork 408, seatpost with clamp 231
Any updates on this build or feedback. I was considering trying this frame as well. Not entirely sure I should get it or the RD301-D
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Interested too! How's the ride?
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Hello,
I received a medium frame with pearl white glossy paint.
Quality is very good, eps molding seems well handled.
About weight, i checked :
-seatpost 230g all included
-fork 422g uncut, 450 with axle
-frame 1177g with hangers, a bit heavy but i guess 1050 +/-30 claimed is totally naked
-frame + seat post clamp 1196
-rear axle 35g
-headset 101g
The axles are pretty light, i recommend to be careful with tightening torque and the quality of the tool you use.
Building the bike was easy, the right t47 is not as smooth as the left one but ok.
Some details :
If you remove the seat post the clamp easily falls inside the frame.
Due to the position of the seat tube, you have to consider that the seat post has almost 2cm setback.
About the saddle clamp itself, i had to sand a bit the top cradle because saddle was rotating, spcycle provide 2 cradle for different rails diameter.
There is no tightening instructions with the clamp, it be problematic with carbon rails as you need to tighten a lot to make the thing not to move.
The down tube is very thin, it's really easy to compress it with the hand but doesn't seem to affect ride and it's normal according to spcycle
Plenty of clearance with 30c, 32 as advertised will fit easily and probably 34-35 too.
About my first riding impressions :
Feeling is not harsh, vibration and small asperities are well filtered, surely helped by 30 tyres.
I'm pretty comfortable on the bike.
When it comes to big bumps, no surprise it's an aero bike.
The aeroad design is not fake, it likes speed, downhill freewheeling it gains speed fast.
In the wind, cross wind, it's pretty good too, i was expecting much more disturbance from an aero bike.
Probably helped by the fact I'm using only 40mm rims but the frame seems to let the air go around more than being pushed by.
Considering it's winter, i'm out of shape and i don't have enough comparison to give a good opinion on riding dynamics.
At the moment for me this bike is a very good surprise considering the low price.
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Just received my R065 on Thursday XL Chameleon Green...
1194g For the Frame and hangers, tall guy tax.... ;D
414g For the Fork
233g For the Seatpost
Parts are still in transit, will be a while before it's built....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q06NpIdZCAXR2WTxYXH1RoSEGWQEJfOJ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XbG9YM0R2POE5w3F7dtHDfvoohwCM1M2/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LTUGlhgns3ZzKXmEtLPdwfLCCgyRnS0m/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bSHHR4p0UfPeGEaPXpVNXBWtlskU0zUV/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sof5loD-ub06Zzu0kZQBQWF3CQ6EePnh/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mPsjKwdh9a3XMFk4UH_EbycmHZT-DF-C/view?usp=sharing
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Hi, any pictures of the frame?
Interested in buying one for myself :)
Just received my R065 on Thursday XL Chameleon Green...
1194g For the Frame and hangers, tall guy tax.... ;D
414g For the Fork
233g For the Seatpost
Parts are still in transit, will be a while before it's built....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q06NpIdZCAXR2WTxYXH1RoSEGWQEJfOJ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XbG9YM0R2POE5w3F7dtHDfvoohwCM1M2/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LTUGlhgns3ZzKXmEtLPdwfLCCgyRnS0m/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bSHHR4p0UfPeGEaPXpVNXBWtlskU0zUV/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sof5loD-ub06Zzu0kZQBQWF3CQ6EePnh/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mPsjKwdh9a3XMFk4UH_EbycmHZT-DF-C/view?usp=sharing
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Frame photo's are in the links, the bike should be ready for a test ride by next weekend ill take some more then.....
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(https://drive.google.com/thumbnail?id=1VATHCEhi7J9TMwIE4Jlr32dQl51OR-Th&sz=w2000)
First ride was interesting, had a bit of a issue with the headset being a little loose, and the saddle tilting when i went over some bumps...The ride was on the stiff side but not harsh the 32 Vitoria Corsa helped with that...the weight was 8.5g with the Garmin Radar, Headlight and Computer...And 8.2 without...
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Looks really good especially with that paintjob. Glad to read some positive things about spcycle. Personally i would upgrade to some deeper wheels long term to match the aero look of the frame.
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Hi, I just received a notification that my frame has been shipped. To prepare for the build, I have a question for those who already received theirs.
Are the bolts for mounting the brake calipers included with the frame? If not, what length should they be?
I plan to use 160mm rotors in the front and 140mm in the rear, so I won’t need an adapter for the rear.
Thanks!
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They usually don't come with the frame but with the brakes. It's always a good practice to have a box of different length screws available to make sure the brakes will fit the frame. You can get a box of different length screws for pretty cheap.
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Hi, I just received a notification that my frame has been shipped. To prepare for the build, I have a question for those who already received theirs.
Are the bolts for mounting the brake calipers included with the frame? If not, what length should they be?
I plan to use 160mm rotors in the front and 140mm in the rear, so I won’t need an adapter for the rear.
Thanks!
I'm using the same combination of 160mm in the front and 140mm at the rear......My bolts are 16mm for the fronts and 30mm for the rear.....
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How does this frame feel when climbing? Wheelbase of the Aeroad has me thinking this frame might be more stable but a bit less responsive/lively than my current bike. That is if the R065 matches the Aeroad.
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I was pretty sure that I was going to get this frame until I noticed that despite it looking like an Aeroad, its wheel base is waaay longer. Much longer than my current bike and I think the feel of that would just be much too different, so I think I'm going with an R088. Had to ask for the WB info from SP, but also noticed that it's loaded into bikeinsights.com
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New Frame Arrived – Looking for Some Optimizations
Hey everyone,
My new frame arrived yesterday, and after a quick inspection, everything looks good overall. However, there are three things I'd like to improve, and I could use some recommendations:
1️⃣ Seatpost Clamp Upgrade – The stock clamp is quite heavy (70g) and feels a bit cheap. I'm looking for a lighter and better-quality alternative. The seatpost hole diameter is 32.3mm—any suggestions?
2️⃣ Seatpost Cover – There’s no cover where the seatpost enters the frame. Has anyone found a good solution that fits?
3️⃣ Spare Derailleur Hanger – The frame came with only one derailleur hanger, and I’d like to have a spare just in case. Has anyone identified the shape and found a compatible replacement on AliExpress?
Appreciate any insights—thanks in advance!
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Any thoughts or questions I could try to answer, yet?
One thing I didn't like mich, was the design of the spacers for the headset. The way they are designed, you always have to fully disassemble brake hoses completely. I had to add one spacer and simply cut a tiny bit out in the middle, so that I could add and remove those a bit more easily.
Maybe the handlebar is also interesting to someone. I plan to add a hideout for my Airtag somewhere down there as well.
Is the handlebar the Spcycle HB-05?
How do you feel about it on the road?
Is the bike computer mount the one that comes with the handlebar?
Is it solid and firm during use?
The fact that it has only one fixing screw leaves me with some doubts.
Thanks
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I was pretty sure that I was going to get this frame until I noticed that despite it looking like an Aeroad, its wheel base is waaay longer. Much longer than my current bike and I think the feel of that would just be much too different, so I think I'm going with an R088. Had to ask for the WB info from SP, but also noticed that it's loaded into bikeinsights.com
Do you take into account that the Spcycle r065 is one size larger than the equivalent aeroad? M r065 has 1cm longer wheelbase than S aeroad.
I have no problem climbing with it and it's fast on downhills.
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The paint job looks awesome and is close to perfect. I only had one imperfection near the seatpost, but you have to know where to look and use a magnifier to find it. The clear coating seems to be sufficient, too. The blue and purple chameleon paint seems to be forgiving some minor scratches as well, so absolutely recommend it. I was also thinking about getting a silver chameleon, like many of you got on your Velobuilds, which I was offered on demand. Additional cost and pictures of the blue and purple changed my mind, though.
What color are you referring to exactly?
Do you have any photos to post?
I'm considering buying the R088 frame and I'm very undecided about the color....but from their pantone I've only seen metallic gray and metallic silver, no chameleon silver.
Thanks
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New Frame Arrived – Looking for Some Optimizations
Hey everyone,
My new frame arrived yesterday, and after a quick inspection, everything looks good overall. However, there are three things I'd like to improve, and I could use some recommendations:
1️⃣ Seatpost Clamp Upgrade – The stock clamp is quite heavy (70g) and feels a bit cheap. I'm looking for a lighter and better-quality alternative. The seatpost hole diameter is 32.3mm—any suggestions?
2️⃣ Seatpost Cover – There’s no cover where the seatpost enters the frame. Has anyone found a good solution that fits?
3️⃣ Spare Derailleur Hanger – The frame came with only one derailleur hanger, and I’d like to have a spare just in case. Has anyone identified the shape and found a compatible replacement on AliExpress?
Appreciate any insights—thanks in advance!
I think the guy who started the R088 thread also bought a spare UDH when he bought his frame. Should be on the first couple pages of that thread.
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Do you take into account that the Spcycle r065 is one size larger than the equivalent aeroad? M r065 has 1cm longer wheelbase than S aeroad.
I have no problem climbing with it and it's fast on downhills.
What's your height and what frame size did you get?
Longer WB definitely will make it more stable at speed, but you'll sacrifice agility, won't be as nimble. Kinda like short vs longboard surfing. To each their own of course. Compared using bikeinsights.com and it didn't seem like XS or S size would be quite right. WB on XS would be good, but dunno if there'd be enough seat post length to make that work for me. Of course, if I could test ride it, I'd know, but better to be safe than sorry when buying a frame sight unseen and ride unridden. 8)
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What's your height and what frame size did you get?
174cm, i get a M. I'm ok with 110mm stem 38cm bar.
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Hey guys, I am planning to buy this frame, any thing I need to know? Seems to be great frame. Super excited.
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To complete my first impressions, this is what i think about my build.
With yishun rims GRL40c and 30c gp5000, the bike has a smooth feeling. Very composed when fast riding but also liveable when easy cruising.
Nevertheless as a carbon "race" bike it's not for bad roads with potholes, cracks, vertically stiff and not absorbing shocks, you have to watch where you put the wheels.
To me rear end seems locked resulting in a very good power transfert. But it's not giving me the explosive feeling of a bow you charge and boom, it's more neutral "ok i'm already at this speed".
I have no problem climbing with it, it goes very well. I'm suprised to get a light feeling under the pedal.
On the downhills it's fast and confident.
As a conclusion, considering it's the cheapest frame in spcycle store and in the market, it's a very very good surprise.
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Hey guys, I am planning to buy this frame, any thing I need to know? Seems to be great frame. Super excited.
The steer angle is quite slack for a road bike!
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is that the pearl white? do you have more photos? thats what I am planning to buy
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is that the pearl white? do you have more photos? thats what I am planning to buy
Yes, pearl white. I don't have many photos, this one you can see the brightness in a sunny day.
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Thanks for all that have posted. There is not much info on the R065 online and I was hesitant to pull the trigger. After reading this thread many times, I placed my order via AliExpress on March 1 and it was delivered today. It was packaged nicely and I was excited to get started with the build.
I have Elite 50mm wheels with GP 5000 STR 28s and SRAM Rival AXS 2x12 ready to go on the bike.
However, issue with the fork and the bearing. The bearing does not seat all the way down. I did not want to force it as they may have sent the wrong size. I just sent a message with pics through AE and am waiting to hear back. In all fairness, this is only my second build and I could be doing something wrong. I will be visiting my LBS tomorrow to check, and to ask a few questions on some other things.
Here are some pics of the fork issue. I will post more pics in another reply.
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Strange mine went on without any problems.....Might be some lacquer there that need a light sanding for the bearing to fit....
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Mine also arrived without any problems.
Smooth assembly even with mechanical groupset and great quality/price frame in my opinion
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Mine also arrived without any problems.
Smooth assembly even with mechanical groupset and great quality/price frame in my opinion
Share some pics with us?
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Share some pics with us?
Size 58...I have nothing else at the moment
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I ordered size 58, this gives me hope.
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Has anyone tried a magene pes 505 on this frame? Does it fit?
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Has anyone tried a magene pes 505 on this frame? Does it fit?
Looking at the shape of the drive side of the frame would give me hope, the threaded area is a good piece "higher" than the frame so the P505 should work with that
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My build is complete. Final weight - 17.6 pounds (size large) without pedals. Of course it is raining here today so maybe tomorrow will be the test ride.
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Hi everyone,
do you have any pictures of your battery setup for the Shimano Di2 Ultegra groupset? Thanks!
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The battery goes in the downtube similar to some canyon bikes.
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I just finished my build and took it for a test drive. Unfortunately I have found a few issues. All at the front end. The fork has a little bit of movement where the fork meets the frame there is also some movement and noise coming from where the wheel meets the frame but i think this issue is coming from the tagoola wheels, both are large issues and makes it feel quite unsafe to ride. I have just contacted both companies, i will send an update when i get a response.
Are you 100% sure that it's correctly installed? Is there enough gap between topcap and compression plug? Did you apply enough preload on the topcap?
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It was not installed correctly, problem solved.
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Hi everyone, I'm almost done with the assembly, but there's a 1 mm play in the fork and I can't seem to fix the problem. I've attached a few photos of the setup—can anyone tell me if I'm making a mistake somewhere? Thanks a lot!
https://ibb.co/4nRXDkSb
https://ibb.co/G443hJgh
https://ibb.co/nqXpFw97
https://ibb.co/zTmMGxKn
https://ibb.co/j9c5fKBq
https://ibb.co/5WDFMwpS
thanks
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Hi everyone, I'm almost done with the assembly, but there's a 1 mm play in the fork and I can't seem to fix the problem. I've attached a few photos of the setup—can anyone tell me if I'm making a mistake somewhere? Thanks a lot!
https://ibb.co/4nRXDkSb
https://ibb.co/G443hJgh
https://ibb.co/nqXpFw97
https://ibb.co/zTmMGxKn
https://ibb.co/j9c5fKBq
https://ibb.co/5WDFMwpS
thanks
It seems like you dont have any gap between the frame and your bottom cover, spacer whatever its called.
https://ibb.co/bMwN4H9x
To preload the bearings you need a gap there, you can try sanding the bottom part of the cover a bit and try again
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Hi everyone, I'm almost done with the assembly, but there's a 1 mm play in the fork and I can't seem to fix the problem. I've attached a few photos of the setup—can anyone tell me if I'm making a mistake somewhere? Thanks a lot!
https://ibb.co/4nRXDkSb
https://ibb.co/G443hJgh
https://ibb.co/nqXpFw97
https://ibb.co/zTmMGxKn
https://ibb.co/j9c5fKBq
https://ibb.co/5WDFMwpS
thanks
my bad! I had misinterpreted the picture!
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your fork still seems too long. Need to cut it shorter
No its not, its even cut too much, but shouldnt be problem for preloading
https://ibb.co/xKtWWKY1
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yes I cut another piece because I thought there was not enough space between the top and the cut to do compression, but even cutting it back did not solve my problem
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Did I put the pieces together the right way? Is something missing?
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C ring which guides the cables into the frame is often a problem (if metal out of tolerance). Did you check that?
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I have doubts about this part, but I don't see how to check if it is OK. I inserted it as it seemed good to me, but I don't know if this part has a defect.
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If you push the c ring into the fork and it moves front to back without preload than the c ring is out of tolerance. The plastic c rings work better because they can slightly adapt due to the material.
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I spoke with someone from SPCYCLE who told me that it's because there is a space between the black ring and the fork. He told me to sand a little to remove this space. I'm going to test that. Regarding the C-ring, when I test it without load, I don't feel any movement, but I'm going to check again. It's now more complicated since I've fitted the disc brakes :'(.
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Did I put the pieces together the right way? Is something missing?
Check to make sure the compression plug is not being raised out of the steerer tube while you are trying to adjust the headset....i was successful when i pressed down on the back of the stem, just around the top cap with some body weight, while at the same time tightening the headset...
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Apone, thanks for your advice, but I can't seem to get it working by testing that either. I also did what SPCYCLE told me, but it didn't change anything. I made a video to show the play, and I find it's mostly coming from the top. I'm also wondering if it's coming from the C-ring.
Link to the video: https://streamable.com/ehc49g
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I didn't understand that the expander was made up of 2 screws to be tightened independently
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I didn't understand that the expander was made up of 2 screws to be tightened independently
Yes the one tightens the plug to the steerer tube and the other tightens the headset bearings...
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I bought the frame yesterday. Anyone bought the light grey metallic or silver metallic? I am debating between the two colors.
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I am 192cm tall. Their web site is stating that XL is only suitable for riders up to 190cm. Would XL frame be small for me? Anyone with XL size frame ?
This is a common problem with Chinese frames. They often do not support taller riders :-\
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I bought a size L frame last year, while being 1,83 tall. That almost feels too small to me so that I wouldn’t take the shot on XL with your height.
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I am 192cm tall. Their web site is stating that XL is only suitable for riders up to 190cm. Would XL frame be small for me? Anyone with XL size frame ?
This is a common problem with Chinese frames. They often do not support taller riders :-\
I have the XL size frame and I am about the same height, If you are flexible enough you can make it work, the SP-R088 ideally would give you more options setup wise....
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Can someone check their frame if the top or down tube is flexy? squeezable with your bare hands?
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Can someone check their frame if the top or down tube is flexy? squeezable with your bare hands?
I'm not getting any flex from mine..
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How is the ride on this frame? Does the seatpost give some compliance?
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Can someone check their frame if the top or down tube is flexy? squeezable with your bare hands?
Yes I can flex the down tube with my hand but not the top. Have been doing some milage on mine now and I think it is a really nice frame for the money.
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Did you guys put the crown just under the lower headset bearing? Some frames don't require that part installed.
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Yes i installed mine under the lower bearing....
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Is this frame aeroad inspired? Looks pretty close to me visually
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It's definitely Aeroad inspired, with subtle geometry and hardware differences....
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Just pull the trigger on AliExpress for a Size M Glossy Black
I'm gonna put the parts I have on a Velobuild 168, Rival AXS and CSC Wheels. Just to try a full Aero design.
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Satisfied by my R065 in raw matt carbon. Magne p505 only fits with a 1mm spacer on the drive side for those who are interested.
The Spcycle handelbars looked too bulky, so I choose the Kocevlo ones which should weigh the same.
The ride is stiff and I can feel every minuscule bump on the road (also thanks to the carbon spokes on the xmcs Wheels and a carbon saddle)
Feels great on the flats, in short sprints and alright on hills, the only thing pulling this bike back on climbs would be myself.
Rode it for 2200km and only issue was the saddleclamp slipping.
In total about 8kg with bottle cages and pedals.
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Satisfied by my R065 in raw matt carbon. Magne p505 only fits with a 1mm spacer on the drive side for those who are interested.
The Spcycle handelbars looked too bulky, so I choose the Kocevlo ones which should weigh the same.
The ride is stiff and I can feel every minuscule bump on the road (also thanks to the carbon spokes on the xmcs Wheels and a carbon saddle)
Feels great on the flats, in short sprints and alright on hills, the only thing pulling this bike back on climbs would be myself.
Rode it for 2200km and only issue was the saddleclamp slipping.
In total about 8kg with bottle cages and pedals.
Looks so good IMO!
Thanks 👍 for the report and glad to know your no issues experience.
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I will put my Magene p505 on my frame when I get it. Can you elaborate why it needs a 1mm spacer on the drive side? Clearance issue? Where?
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I will put my Magene p505 on my frame when I get it. Can you elaborate why it needs a 1mm spacer on the drive side? Clearance issue? Where?
I can't really describe it without an illustration, I hope this helps. But it could vary from bb manufacturer, with kactus the spacer is between the BB and Powermeter and the clearance is pretty tight.
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Thank you for taking the time to explain! I will find out if it does the same with a ztto BB.
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Thanks for all that have posted. There is not much info on the R065 online and I was hesitant to pull the trigger. After reading this thread many times, I placed my order via AliExpress on March 1 and it was delivered today. It was packaged nicely and I was excited to get started with the build.
I have Elite 50mm wheels with GP 5000 STR 28s and SRAM Rival AXS 2x12 ready to go on the bike.
However, issue with the fork and the bearing. The bearing does not seat all the way down. I did not want to force it as they may have sent the wrong size. I just sent a message with pics through AE and am waiting to hear back. In all fairness, this is only my second build and I could be doing something wrong. I will be visiting my LBS tomorrow to check, and to ask a few questions on some other things.
Here are some pics of the fork issue. I will post more pics in another reply.
Just received my frame, and have the same issue with the bottom fork bearing.
Could you tell me what was the solution? Just put a message to Spcycle on AliExpress.
On the other hand, frame looks so good in glossy black. Same weight, few grams of difference than my currently Velobuild 168.
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Spcycle just said that the guy who sanded the fork tube, did not sand it enough around the bearing area. Just give it a shot with fine sand paper and it will fit.
Also, no clearance issue on my end with ztto BB + p505
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After some messages and photos, because also have a small "booble/hole" in the fork, they are gonna send me another fork next week.
No complaints about the service. I'll update when the spare fork arrives.
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After some messages and photos, because also have a small "booble/hole" in the fork, they are gonna send me another fork next week.
No complaints about the service. I'll update when the spare fork arrives.
Spcycles service is great! They have been super to me!
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Anybody knows if a FSA ACR headset will fit?
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I guess yes, because is a 1/2" standart Headset.
You sould write SPcycle via aliexpress, they answer fast.
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It depends on what you call fit, when i tried the ACR i didn't like the gap between the top bearing cap...
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so... in overall Spcycle, is a reliable Frame Manufacturer?
im thinking ordering, this frame since its pretty similar to the Aeroad Canyon.
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so... in overall Spcycle, is a reliable Frame Manufacturer?
im thinking ordering, this frame since its pretty similar to the Aeroad Canyon.
Yes, also they have a so good after sales event.
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Nearly ready.
Drop in some tape, an small adjustments and done.
Looks so good, ann overall the felling of the quality is correct.
I'll upload more photos when finished.
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Looking forward to more reviews. im waiting for mine to be shipped. Spcycle says it will be shipping tomorrow.
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Finish! 8)
Size M
Kozlevo Handlebar
Rival AXS with Woozei 11-34 Casette.
CSC Wheels 40mm 25mm internal
Schwalbe ONE 28s tubeless (32mm real)
140/160 Galfer road Disc
Ryet 3D Saddle
Faveros Axiomas
Zefal carbon bottlecages
8,2KG with pedals, bottlecages and Garmin mount.
It´s stiffer than my old Velobuid 168. I expected a much harsh ride quality. But it´s ride so good, not harsh, I think mainly due to the tubeless.
The aero shape is realy noticeable, at 35/40km/h you can feel the extra help.
Uphill character is not so much leavely, perhaps its the weight or like the majority of open moulds, rides well but the lack of the spring / bow character of a real sworks for example. Not so much problem IMO on an aerobike.
Overall so much happy with the bike, taking into account the price of the frame., the quality its so good.
I received a damaged fork, but they sent me another one, quickly and only with photos of the problem. Cheers for SpycCyle.
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i just got my frame. everything is looking good.. i will send it for paint with a Local Paint Shop, after that i will star building it and will let you guys know how everything goes.
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Are they selling ready to paint frames?
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the matte black only requires a light sanding.
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Finish! 8)
Size M
Kozlevo Handlebar
Rival AXS with Woozei 11-34 Casette.
CSC Wheels 40mm 25mm internal
Schwalbe ONE 28s tubeless (32mm real)
140/160 Galfer road Disc
Ryet 3D Saddle
Faveros Axiomas
Zefal carbon bottlecages
8,2KG with pedals, bottlecages and Garmin mount.
It´s stiffer than my old Velobuid 168. I expected a much harsh ride quality. But it´s ride so good, not harsh, I think mainly due to the tubeless.
The aero shape is realy noticeable, at 35/40km/h you can feel the extra help.
Uphill character is not so much leavely, perhaps its the weight or like the majority of open moulds, rides well but the lack of the spring / bow character of a real sworks for example. Not so much problem IMO on an aerobike.
Overall so much happy with the bike, taking into account the price of the frame., the quality its so good.
I received a damaged fork, but they sent me another one, quickly and only with photos of the problem. Cheers for SpycCyle.
Thanks for the review! Bike looks great
I know they say it can accept 32c tires and your 28s measure at 32 on your wheels.... but how is tire clearance overall? Specifically down at the chain stays by the bottom bracket. I am looking for an aero frame that can safely accept ~34-35mm wide wheels and 32mm tires probably blown up to that width.
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Thanks for the review! Bike looks great
I know they say it can accept 32c tires and your 28s measure at 32 on your wheels.... but how is tire clearance overall? Specifically down at the chain stays by the bottom bracket. I am looking for an aero frame that can safely accept ~34-35mm wide wheels and 32mm tires probably blown up to that width.
I use 30c gp5000 which are almost 32mm wide real, i have 5mm between tire and chainstay, a small 6mm between tire and seatstay. Depending on what you call safe but 35mm tires theorically fit.
The front fork has more clearance so no problem here.
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I'm looking to buy this frame, but I'm a bit confused.
On Aliexpress you have 2 options for the frame:
- Frame without handlebar sold by SPCYCLE STORE(TRADER), they don't have cameleon colors to choose from... metallic color with shipping and cupons - 505 EUR
- Frame with handle bar sold by SHENZHEN SPYCYCLE STORE (TRADER), cameleon blue with shipping and cupons - 622 EUR
Is this the same seller with 2 different names?
They also have the option to buy directly from their website.
Cameleon color with shipping comes to 608 EUR + there is an option for discount code if anyone has it.
What do you guys recommend?
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I got mine from the "SHENZHEN SPCYCLE STORE" i think they're the same store...
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I use 30c gp5000 which are almost 32mm wide real, i have 5mm between tire and chainstay, a small 6mm between tire and seatstay. Depending on what you call safe but 35mm tires theorically fit.
The front fork has more clearance so no problem here.
Exactly what I needed to know, thank you!
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Hi. Almost first post here. Long time reader. ;D
I just received the frame (the box was undamaged, everything was perfectly packaged) and I noticed this hole in the fork. It's not shown in the catalog photos. Does anyone else with that frame have that same hole?
I contacted Spcycle to ask them, but I haven't received a response yet, so I'd like to know if my frame is the only one with this hole.
Thanks in advance.
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Hi. Almost first post here. Long time reader. ;D
I just received the frame (the box was undamaged, everything was perfectly packaged) and I noticed this hole in the fork. It's not shown in the catalog photos. Does anyone else with that frame have that same hole?
I contacted Spcycle to ask them, but I haven't received a response yet, so I'd like to know if my frame is the only one with this hole.
Thanks in advance.
It looks like a drain hole.
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It looks like a drain hole.
Too high for a drain hole, I think. That's why I want to know if others have it too, because I don't seem to see it in other photos.
Thank you
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Yes, my fork has the hole too.
Spcycle said they do it for water drainage.
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Hi. Almost first post here. Long time reader. ;D
I just received the frame (the box was undamaged, everything was perfectly packaged) and I noticed this hole in the fork. It's not shown in the catalog photos. Does anyone else with that frame have that same hole?
I contacted Spcycle to ask them, but I haven't received a response yet, so I'd like to know if my frame is the only one with this hole.
Thanks in advance.
Yes mine has this hole also....
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Spcycle gave me the same answer, so we'll have to assume it's a drain hole. :)
Hi Friend, This is the fork drainage hole. thank you
Thanks!
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Is there anyone here who has the frame in size L and could take a picture of the head tube from a frontal perspective?
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I just received my frame, size XL
Color metallic #3 in matte finish. Paint has some small flaws, and one light orange peel spot, but overall i'm happy with it, color is beautiful.
There is visible carbon layering on sides of the head tube (triangle like shape) thats visibly sticks out from under the paint, i'd rather it was sanded flat :/
other topic is the crown race, and fork-frame spacing, - i set the crown fully with a tool but the gap is huge, looks like the bottom bearing could be seated bit deeper.
i'll follow up with more reflections once i complete the build
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Hey everyone,
What torque You ended up using on the saddle clamp?
I started with 6nm, now 8nm and it slips still, i'm bit afraid to push it further so it doesn't explode -.- im using the carbon paste of course.
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Hey everyone,
What torque You ended up using on the saddle clamp?
I started with 6nm, now 8nm and it slips still, i'm bit afraid to push it further so it doesn't explode -.- im using the carbon paste of course.
I use Silca hold fast carbon paste and torque it 8nm...if it still slips torque it a bit more....
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i sanded a little the inner side of the Carbon Post hole where the clamp is installed. and also Carbon paste. i torque to 5.5nm and no sliping already 600km and no slipping.
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Pupilorutero, Apone - Thanks for suggestions, sanding the contact surfaces did the trick.
Im now done with the build, went super smooth and easy (minus the saddle clamp issue) and i like how the bike feels and looks :)
full spec here: https://www.bikecheck.cc/bikes/e7974b49-c10c-4a90-a251-306a2983bf87/?config=170
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Just a few photos of the updates...
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Just a few photos of the updates...
Hey Apone, do You have a link for the varia seatpost mount? looks much better that the elastic band one :D
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Hey Apone, do You have a link for the varia seatpost mount? looks much better that the elastic band one :D
Hi Zegal the seatpost mount is from Wattworx....
https://www.wattworx3d.com/products/seatpost-mount-canyon-aeroad-sp0079-sp0066-garmin-varia-300-500-series?srsltid=AfmBOooWyrHRJKXOY61SGpVJ-NP5_7wohaJyIYuP2X3EF3RS_pXHg4Uj (https://www.wattworx3d.com/products/seatpost-mount-canyon-aeroad-sp0079-sp0066-garmin-varia-300-500-series?srsltid=AfmBOooWyrHRJKXOY61SGpVJ-NP5_7wohaJyIYuP2X3EF3RS_pXHg4Uj)
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Hi, I recently finished my R065 build with a GRX groupset but I have a bit of a problem with noise that seems to be coming from the bottom bracket area. Essentially, there's a clicking sound when I push down on the right pedal and put down some power and I'm at my wits' end trying to fix it. I've tried reassembling the BB and crankset multiple times, increasing/decreasing preload, different pedals, two different bottom brackets (tried both a token ninja and switched to a ZTTO), and two different cranksets (cues 24mm and grx 820). I've also tried reaching out to Spcycle multiple times but so far customer support has let me down and I haven't received a response. Does anyone have any ideas what the issue could be or how to fix it?
I've attached a video of this clicking noise when holding the brake and pushing on the pedal but it's pretty much the same while riding.
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Hi, I recently finished my R065 build with a GRX groupset but I have a bit of a problem with noise that seems to be coming from the bottom bracket area. Essentially, there's a clicking sound when I push down on the right pedal and put down some power and I'm at my wits' end trying to fix it. I've tried reassembling the BB and crankset multiple times, increasing/decreasing preload, different pedals, two different bottom brackets (tried both a token ninja and switched to a ZTTO), and two different cranksets (cues 24mm and grx 820). I've also tried reaching out to Spcycle multiple times but so far customer support has let me down and I haven't received a response. Does anyone have any ideas what the issue could be or how to fix it?
I've attached a video of this clicking noise when holding the brake and pushing on the pedal but it's pretty much the same while riding.
Try greasing the rear drop outs both sides, inner and outer..... remove the derailleur hanger and grease where it clamps the frame.....Sometimes the headset bearings might need regreasing....
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For anyone thinking about buying this frame, apparently there will be a revision of this frame coming out in July. UDH and approx 80g lighter.
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For anyone thinking about buying this frame, apparently there will be a revision of this frame coming out in July. UDH and approx 80g lighter.
That's great news!
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Does anyone have issues with constant headset play? I’m using the KOCEVLO X01 integrated cockpit and can't seem to get it to stay tight.
My process:
Preloaded with the top cap.
Torqued stem bolts to spec
Using an 80mm expander plug (and it's not slipping).
Using a 3mm spacer on top to not bottom out.
Everything feels solid, but after one ride, the play is back. It feels like it's coming from the top bearing/C-ring area.
Any ideas on what else to try?
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A few things. Can you confirm your top bearing cover is not bottoming out on the frame, there should be a visable gap when the preload is applied. Second, when you say the expander plug is not moving, did you check this after the headset became loose ? You can shine a light between the gap in the stem to see if the expander plug has lifted from the steerer. Lastly, C ring could be undersized, although I highly doubt this as this handlebar is quite popular and I don't think anyone has reported this issue.
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Hi, I recently finished my R065 build with a GRX groupset but I have a bit of a problem with noise that seems to be coming from the bottom bracket area. Essentially, there's a clicking sound when I push down on the right pedal and put down some power and I'm at my wits' end trying to fix it. I've tried reassembling the BB and crankset multiple times, increasing/decreasing preload, different pedals, two different bottom brackets (tried both a token ninja and switched to a ZTTO), and two different cranksets (cues 24mm and grx 820). I've also tried reaching out to Spcycle multiple times but so far customer support has let me down and I haven't received a response. Does anyone have any ideas what the issue could be or how to fix it?
I've attached a video of this clicking noise when holding the brake and pushing on the pedal but it's pretty much the same while riding.
I've blamed my BB for noise as well, reassembled the thing countless times, it turned out that noise was from saddle - greased the rails, dripped some oil when rails meet the base, and sound stopped - give it a try.
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A few things. Can you confirm your top bearing cover is not bottoming out on the frame, there should be a visable gap when the preload is applied. Second, when you say the expander plug is not moving, did you check this after the headset became loose ? You can shine a light between the gap in the stem to see if the expander plug has lifted from the steerer. Lastly, C ring could be undersized, although I highly doubt this as this handlebar is quite popular and I don't think anyone has reported this issue.
Yes, there's a gap between the top bearing cover to the frame, I even added a microspacer on top of the c-ring just in case.
The expander is not moving, I just adjusted everything again, felt tight, went on a ride, and after I came back, there's play again, lighted up the stem, and it hasn't slipped.
So I really don't know what's going on...
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That's interesting. Is the c-ring plastic or metal ? If plastic, do you have access to a metal one to try out ? Usually they include both plastic and metal C rings.
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That's interesting. Is the c-ring plastic or metal?
It's metal!
My last thought is that when preloading at home, things are not really preloaded, and when riding, the spacers compress more, and that leads to the play?
I've tried again, compressing the top cap by having my gf push on the stem while I screw it in, and after 5 mins riding, there's play again, so I'm really puzzled... It's the 3rd chiner that I built, and I've never had these issues.
I think that I'll take it to my LBS, unless someone sees something I'm missing
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It's metal!
My last thought is that when preloading at home, things are not really preloaded, and when riding, the spacers compress more, and that leads to the play?
I've tried again, compressing the top cap by having my gf push on the stem while I screw it in, and after 5 mins riding, there's play again, so I'm really puzzled... It's the 3rd chiner that I built, and I've never had these issues.
I think that I'll take it to my LBS, unless someone sees something I'm missing
Hello,
Is there a gap of at least 2–3 mm between the stem/cockpit and the steer Tube Extender *before* applying preload? Like in this picture? If not, please install a 5 mm spacer between the top cap and the stem (for testing purposes), and then apply the preload.
Best regards
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It's metal!
My last thought is that when preloading at home, things are not really preloaded, and when riding, the spacers compress more, and that leads to the play?
I've tried again, compressing the top cap by having my gf push on the stem while I screw it in, and after 5 mins riding, there's play again, so I'm really puzzled... It's the 3rd chiner that I built, and I've never had these issues.
I think that I'll take it to my LBS, unless someone sees something I'm missing
Double check the top and bottom bearings are the correct size/angle as per the manufacturers specs. Check the frame bearing surfaces are 100% clean and there is no dirt. Check the bottom bearing is seated against the fork (or crown race if you have it) - the fork may need to be lightly sanded to ensure proper contact.
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Double check the top and bottom bearings are the correct size/angle as per the manufacturers specs. Check the frame bearing surfaces are 100% clean and there is no dirt. Check the bottom bearing is seated against the fork (or crown race if you have it) - the fork may need to be lightly sanded to ensure proper contact.
Dissassembled and re-assembled again, and everything looked fine (bearings in the right angle, crown seated properly, no dirt, etc). I decided to add yet another microspacer on top of the c-ring (so x2 right now) even if there was space between the top cap and the frame, but that seems to have fixed it! Went on a quick ride and there's no play!
Crossing fingers that it stays that way, thanks for the help!
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Glad to hear you sorted it out.
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i was looking at this frame and found out that spcycle has a T1000 version of the frame. However, the weight seems the same as the cheaper version. Have anyone asked the seller about this?
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Post a photo so we can get an idea of the gap with and without the crown race....
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https://ibb.co/fGTfD2CR
https://ibb.co/5gd3vSjZ
https://ibb.co/99rG2dZB
Experiencing massive play in de headset. Compression plug with 16NM, added micro spacers to the top cap and did 6NM but still play. Nothing is bottoming out. Any clue?
Remove the top cap stem and raketa picture in order to check the fork cut'
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Is your expendze plugh just slipping up?
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Remove the top cap stem and raketa picture in order to check the fork cut'
Top cap was the issue, solved with some creative solution
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This frame is quite cheap, why is there no more reviews around ?
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Top cap was the issue, solved with some creative solution
What was the creative solution? :D