Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Ahodesu05 on March 07, 2024, 09:11:28 AM
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New forum member here, and starting a new thread after posting about this in a thread on the LightCarbon LCR017-D (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4309.255.html).
Long story short: I snuck in to the Taipei Bike Show today to check out some Longteng and LightCarbon frames, and at the Longteng booth, I found out that they have an unreleased frame which is undergoing testing: the RD301-D. Here is a short video that I took, and a few pages from their brochure with its geometry: https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j.
Appearance wise, the 301 doesn't break any new ground, but a few things stand out:
- It has an aero profile but is under 1000g weight
- The geometry (especially stack) sort of sits between an upright endurance bike and bikes like the Velobuild 177 and 268, Winspace SLC 2.0 and 1500, Yoeleo R11 - this geometry is a sweet spot for me [edit: the geometry seems comparable to the touted all-arounder Trigon AR01]
- Whoa, max tire clearance of 38!
- Cool little storage space on the downtube
- Threaded T47 BB
- Per their rep Alisa, it's made with a mix of T800 and T1000 carbon
This frame hasn't been posted on their website, and Alisa said it will be released "in a few months" once testing is complete. The 54cm has passed their tests and is available if anyone is interested - you can email Alisa at longtengalisa@163.com.
Peace out!
[Edited to add reference to the Trigon AR01]
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Noice.
It seems like it's an all-around bike like Canyon's Endurance, just bit more aggressive geometry stack-wise. Size 54 has less stack than something like SuperSix Evo 4 or BMC Teammachine.
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this looks nice. might pick one up
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Great investigation ;)
You know if they will offer a zero-offset Seatpost?
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This is the frame i have been looking for! Thanks OP!
If i end up really liking the super narrow 35cm bars I plan to experiment with I might get the 52cm, otherwise the 50cm with a 120 -6 stem would be perfect and slammed would give me the same stack and reach as my roadie.
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New forum member here, and starting a new thread after posting about this in a thread on the LightCarbon LCR017-D (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4309.255.html).
Long story short: I snuck in to the Taipei Bike Show today to check out some Longteng and LightCarbon frames, and at the Longteng booth, I found out that they have an unreleased frame which is undergoing testing: the RD301-D. Here is a short video that I took, and a few pages from their brochure with its geometry: https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j.
Appearance wise, the 301 doesn't break any new ground, but a few things stand out:
- It has an aero profile but is under 1000g weight
- The geometry (especially stack) sort of sits between an upright endurance bike and bikes like the Velobuild 177 and 268, Winspace SLC 2.0 and 1500, Yoeleo R11 - this geometry is a sweet spot for me [edit: the geometry seems comparable to the touted all-arounder Trigon AR01]
- Whoa, max tire clearance of 38!
- Cool little storage space on the downtube
- Threaded T47 BB
- Per their rep Alisa, it's made with a mix of T800 and T1000 carbon
This frame hasn't been posted on their website, and Alisa said it will be released "in a few months" once testing is complete. The 54cm has passed their tests and is available if anyone is interested - you can email Alisa at longtengalisa@163.com.
Peace out!
[Edited to add reference to the Trigon AR01]
Couple of things:
That fork design with the pronounced ridge on the fork blade is typical of VB and LT. Previously they've been very noodly - lateral stiffness is diabolical. There also seems to be some variance - usually VB are worse, and some VBs worse than others. Hopefully not the case here, but we'll see.
Bit doubtful about 38 clearance. But it would be nice to have a nominally aero profile with that clearance.
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The frame in the video is clearly not the frame in the brochure. Or are they doing like LC and the LCR017-D, with final product different than pictures on website.
What's the real RD301-D looks like? ::)
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Hi, the frame looks amazing considering the weight, t47 and tire clearance, is there anything similar just released in Taipeh?
Thanks mates
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In addition, I've never heard about this brand, can you please give me some background information, is it a reliable brand?
Thanks
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In addition, I've never heard about this brand, can you please give me some background information, is it a reliable brand?
Thanks
There are lots of resources here on Chinertown on the different Chinese brands - I'm a new member, but did spend the past month looking at different frames and reading the forum here to see what brands are/are not reputable. You can do the same, it's part of the fun!
I'm buying my first Chinese frame, so I don't have any actual experience with Longteng or any of the other Chinese brands. I've researched Winspace, Yoeleo and Seka, which are above my budget. Within my budget, I've researched Velobuild, Workswell, Yishunbikes, Longteng, Lightcarbon, Trifox and a few others. It seems that Longteng and Lightcarbon have decent reputation, based in part on the fact that they own their own production and act as OEM for other companies, and offer decent customer support. But as always, your mileage my vary.
Happy hunting!
Btw I'm talking to Longteng to get some pricing and confirm other details like availability, custom frame painting, geometry, zero offset seat post, etc. Will provide updates here if anyone is interested.
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The frame in the video is clearly not the frame in the brochure. Or are they doing like LC and the LCR017-D, with final product different than pictures on website.
What's the real RD301-D looks like? ::)
You are right - I posted the wrong video (it was the 268 frame instead of the 301). I've removed the video and added 2 photos from Longteng of the real 301 frame which match up what they have in the brochure: https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j. Sorry about the mix up.
Here are some updates from my communication with them:
- Quoted price of US$450 for frame, fork, seat post
- They can offer for additional charge: integrated handlebar $80, headset $12, through axle $30/pair, spare rear hanger $6/pcs
- 980g +/-40 for size 52 frame
- Zero offset seat post is not available
- Available 45 days from payment
I've had some discussions with them around custom frame painting:
- US$85 for 3 colors
- They can do custom decals (which will sit underneath the final coat of paint), but for simple stuff, they will make it part of the frame painting instead of doing decal stickers - they prefer to get vector files instead of helping with design
- They can do (or, at least they are wiling to try...) fairly complex paint jobs, unlike other sellers I've talked to - for example, I asked if they can do something like the Bahrain team bike kit from 2023 (https://www.ridemedia.com.au/racing/pro-bikes-2023-bahrain-victorious-and-merida-a-mechanics-perspective/), and they said it should be ok as long as they are provided with detailed sketches/instructions; I'm just relaying what they said and have no idea about the actual end product, although the paint jobs I saw at the Taipei Bike Show looked pretty nice
Again, sorry about posting the wrong video :o
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Couple of things:
That fork design with the pronounced ridge on the fork blade is typical of VB and LT. Previously they've been very noodly - lateral stiffness is diabolical. There also seems to be some variance - usually VB are worse, and some VBs worse than others. Hopefully not the case here, but we'll see.
Bit doubtful about 38 clearance. But it would be nice to have a nominally aero profile with that clearance.
Sorry, I posted a video of the 268 frame instead of the 301. The 268 has that ridge on the fork but the 301 does not. I've deleted the video and uploaded photos of the actual 301 frame that I got from Longteng (no ridge): https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j.
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That looks to be a gravelframe (top tube screwholes and graveltires)
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You are right - I posted the wrong video (it was the 268 frame instead of the 301). I've removed the video and added 2 photos from Longteng of the real 301 frame which match up what they have in the brochure: https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j. Sorry about the mix up.
Here are some updates from my communication with them:
- Quoted price of US$450 for frame, fork, seat post
- They can offer for additional charge: integrated handlebar $80, headset $12, through axle $30/pair, spare rear hanger $6/pcs
- 980g +/-40 for size 52 frame
- Zero offset seat post is not available
- Available 45 days from payment
I've had some discussions with them around custom frame painting:
- US$85 for 3 colors
- They can do custom decals (which will sit underneath the final coat of paint), but for simple stuff, they will make it part of the frame painting instead of doing decal stickers - they prefer to get vector files instead of helping with design
- They can do (or, at least they are wiling to try...) fairly complex paint jobs, unlike other sellers I've talked to - for example, I asked if they can do something like the Bahrain team bike kit from 2023 (https://www.ridemedia.com.au/racing/pro-bikes-2023-bahrain-victorious-and-merida-a-mechanics-perspective/), and they said it should be ok as long as they are provided with detailed sketches/instructions; I'm just relaying what they said and have no idea about the actual end product, although the paint jobs I saw at the Taipei Bike Show looked pretty nice
Again, sorry about posting the wrong video :o
Thanks for posting the right pictures. Looks like its on their website now: https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/401.html
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That looks to be a gravelframe (top tube screwholes and graveltires)
Yeah it seems more in the spirit of the 3T, Open and similar all road bikes than a pure road bike. Might be cool especially with 2 wheelsets but honestly maybe not my cuppa tea.
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Yeah it seems more in the spirit of the 3T, Open and similar all road bikes than a pure road bike. Might be cool especially with 2 wheelsets but honestly maybe not my cuppa tea.
I think of this bike as more like the Enve Melee than anything. Its not really an allroad endurance bike that also does gravel like the Domane (i think the carbonda CFR505SL is the closest open mold to that bike). Its a little relaxed to be a fast road bike IMO but then again Total Energies is racing the Melee so the geometry can be made to work.
The inclusion of the TT mounts but exclusion of the DT storage is interesting in photos vs. the drawings, but I havent contact them about a frame yet.
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I think of this bike as more like the Enve Melee than anything. Its not really an allroad endurance bike that also does gravel like the Domane (i think the carbonda CFR505SL is the closest open mold to that bike). Its a little relaxed to be a fast road bike IMO but then again Total Energies is racing the Melee so the geometry can be made to work.
The inclusion of the TT mounts but exclusion of the DT storage is interesting in photos vs. the drawings, but I havent contact them about a frame yet.
Great call on the Enve Melee
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Sorry, I posted a video of the 268 frame instead of the 301. The 268 has that ridge on the fork but the 301 does not. I've deleted the video and uploaded photos of the actual 301 frame that I got from Longteng (no ridge): https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j.
That thing's going to have epic toe overlap in the larger sizes ... geo aside, just look at the photo (in a smaller size to boot). Kill it with fire IMO.
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That thing's going to have epic toe overlap in the larger sizes ... geo aside, just look at the photo (in a smaller size to boot). Kill it with fire IMO.
The two largest sizes are like 7mm less FC than the Melee and 3-4mm longer than the Trek Emonda for equivalent sizes.
I don't know what's going on visually but the geometry chart seems to indicate that it should be fine.
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It's a very interesting frameset, did anyone buy already?
What's pro or against? Is there an alternative?
Thanks
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Hi, did anyone order already?
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I'm very happy with my 268, so i'm looking at this 301, given how similar it looks.
I also compared it to the VB GF 002 (I have one) and to a supersix road and a supersix gravel.
Take-aways:
301 geo v similar to 268, 301 tad more aggressive in stack & reach, but wheelbase is a tad longer. Together, a tie?
301 definitely NOT a gravel bike.
301 very similar to a supersix, except the supersix has a much longer wheelbase (both supersix are gravel territory when it comes to wheelbase, which i find surprising).
I'm wondering how the 301 would fare with 32C front, 34C rear, as a bomb proof bike for the mountains (not freaking out about potholes, post winter dirty roads, old chunkier asphalt, and the occasional dirt segment is appealing to me, even if i don't like the idea of the extra weight from bigger rims & tyres, and higher drag from a big ass fork. There are forest roads i avoid because of road surface, cracks, dirt sections, slope, on my 25mm supersix rim brake w carbon rims. The 301 would steamroll over all of that.
What's your experience with LT as far as their custom painting/decals? I'm close to pulling the trigger on this frame, and have some ideas for the design but just wondering about how well they will execute. If their frame painting is crappy, then I'll probably just keep it simple and go black stealth.
And did you go with their cockpit (stem, bars)? If so, how do you like it? And if not, do you have any Aliexpress recommendations?
Thx in advance!
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I bought one black matte and one black gloss. I recommend the black gloss. Didn't entertain custom painting.
Thanks for the info, just curious, why do you prefer the black gloss over the black matte? For aesthetic reasons or paint quality?
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Hi!
Love the tractor idea. Do you mind to share the decal masters?
Thanks
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I placed an order on a 52 cm frame. Per Alisa, the lead time is around 45 days but they have a few 52 left in stock so it might be able to get shipped out within 30 days (after some custom paint work).
What I paid:
- US$530 for frame, fork & seat post, in black gloss plus one additional color
- US$12 for headset
- US$25 for front and rear axles
- US$6 for spare rear hanger
They offered an integrated cockpit for US$80 but they don't have 380/100, so I will source that elsewhere.
Now I have to source wheels and all the other stuff! I'm not that handy so I'm going to work with a LBS here in Taipei to get this built up. I'll try to do a build video and also share some pics.
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Very nice! do let us know how everything goes, send photos, and tell us how the ride compares with other bikes you've ridden. Have fun!
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Here is a bike geometry question that I hope someone could help me with. I'm trying to figure out the stem length of the integrated handlebar that I'm going to order from Aliexpress. Since it's a one piece and I'll be doing all internal cabling, I need to try to get it right without going through the pain of redoing half the build!
My current bike is an older Scott CR1 with a 100mm stem. Comparing it to the 301:
- Both have similar reach
- Both have set back seat post
- The 301 has a shorter effective top tube by 110mm but also lower stack by 150mm
If I use a 100mm integrated handlebar on the new 301 build, will that get me to roughly the similar place as my current bike position (assuming that 301's shorter effective top tube will compensate for its lower stack)?
Thx in advance.
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Another interesting comp is the Aethos. Geometry-wise at least, this frame does seem to sit alongside other all arounders. Looking forward to getting this thing built up and out on the road!
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Any new builds out already?
Is there a picture on the storage frame?
Couldnt find any.
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Any new builds out already?
Is there a picture on the storage frame?
Couldnt find any.
I placed an order for the frame but won't take delivery until August (due to my travel schedule) - will share more info/pics when I do get it and build up the bike.
Here's a pic of the frame with the internal storage. (They don't provide any sort of soft pouch that fits the storage.)
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Anthony Turgis of Total Energies just won the gravel stage of the Tour de France on the Enve Melee, very similar in geometry to this bike frame :)
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similar geo as in they both fit kinda wide tyres
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I'm ready to pull the trigger for LT R301D...
size 52, 2 colors paint job (white/red) with "龍腾" logo/decals. Paint job coast $100 extra.
With handlebar/TA/HS/Der-hanger/freight/Paypal fees all come out total of 845usd shipped to door.
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rough sketch....
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New forum member here, and starting a new thread after posting about this in a thread on the LightCarbon LCR017-D (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4309.255.html).
Long story short: I snuck in to the Taipei Bike Show today to check out some Longteng and LightCarbon frames, and at the Longteng booth, I found out that they have an unreleased frame which is undergoing testing: the RD301-D. Here is a short video that I took, and a few pages from their brochure with its geometry: https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j.
Appearance wise, the 301 doesn't break any new ground, but a few things stand out:
- It has an aero profile but is under 1000g weight
- The geometry (especially stack) sort of sits between an upright endurance bike and bikes like the Velobuild 177 and 268, Winspace SLC 2.0 and 1500, Yoeleo R11 - this geometry is a sweet spot for me [edit: the geometry seems comparable to the touted all-arounder Trigon AR01]
- Whoa, max tire clearance of 38!
- Cool little storage space on the downtube
- Threaded T47 BB
- Per their rep Alisa, it's made with a mix of T800 and T1000 carbon
This frame hasn't been posted on their website, and Alisa said it will be released "in a few months" once testing is complete. The 54cm has passed their tests and is available if anyone is interested - you can email Alisa at longtengalisa@163.com.
Peace out!
[Edited to add reference to the Trigon AR01]
Is longteng and lightcarbon same frame ?
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RD301D is coming along nicely, just finished painting. Should be shipped out next week.
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Mine will be shipping shortly as well!
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According to Alisa, the 58cm frame will only be available in a few months time, too bad :/
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All done! ready to ship out.
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All done! ready to ship out.
This is all very exciting! From this picture it seems like, there arent screws on the top tube? Do you know anything about that? And does anyone know
how the compartment on the down tube closes? is there a mount for a bottlecage on the latch itself?
I might build a first time Chinese bike with this frame for my bff, she is 167 cm tall, so I might go with the size 470, I think. Any opinions on that? I took here existing road bike as a template and talked with her what she likes/dislikes about it.
best wishes and thanks a lot to everyone on this thread and this forum. absolutly love it!
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This is all very exciting! From this picture it seems like, there arent screws on the top tube? Do you know anything about that? And does anyone know
how the compartment on the down tube closes? is there a mount for a bottlecage on the latch itself?
I might build a first time Chinese bike with this frame for my bff, she is 167 cm tall, so I might go with the size 470, I think. Any opinions on that? I took here existing road bike as a template and talked with her what she likes/dislikes about it.
best wishes and thanks a lot to everyone on this thread and this forum. absolutly love it!
Here are some pics of my frame sent to me by Alisa - you can see that there are holes for bolt-on top tube bag. The frame has been shipped and should arrive soon. I'll try to share an unboxing video.
Btw I requested metallic gray using a Pantone code, but it looks almost white in the pic. Alisa assures me that they used paint color that matched my Pantone code, fingers crossed!
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I’m really looking forward to seeing your and kwantani’s build. I’m struggling to decide between the RD301 and the ICAN Flyee. Thanks for the update
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unboxing videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oROXFUewyyY
https://youtube.com/shorts/inDMUuM9NjE?feature=share
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oROXFUewyyY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oROXFUewyyY)
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I try to share a youtube unbox video link and this site is not allowed me to share, came out a blank post. Frustrating!!!
pics for now...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oROXFUewyyY
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Looks good. What are your initial impressions?
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1) Love the paint job! the candy/pearlescent tone really shine under the sun!
2) The bottle cage holes on top tube and down tube is kind ugly, have that unfinished looks. Not impressive with them.
3) The downtube storage access is nice with the magnetic latch, but the underneath is just cavity expose to the entire inside of the downtube. How am I going store anything inside? what do I need to setup as storage? again sort of unfinished kind of solution that I need to figure out.
4) Front der hanger has 2 rivets to the seat tube, not sure if that's sufficient?
5) I like the rear der hanger, this is the Sram type?
6) Massive squoval downtube, is it really necessary for a stiffer frameset? Aesthetically it's pleasing, not sure if it could make the frame overly stiff.
7) I think I'm going to enjoy the 38c tire clearance.
8) I'm planning to have the LBS move the 105/12s groups and components from my current Java Fuoco over to the LongTeng.
9) Quick inspection on the inside of the frame tubing, all internal surface seems smooth, has not seen any wrinkles nor any ungodly epoxies or trash. But will take more details photos on the inside tubing.
Looks good. What are your initial impressions?
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The downtube storage access is nice with the magnetic latch, but the underneath is just cavity expose to the entire inside of the downtube. How am I going store anything inside? what do I need to setup as storage? again sort of unfinished kind of solution that I need to figure out.
Alisa told me they sell them and are $8 for the sock.
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Ah good to know. Thx.
Alisa told me they sell them and are $8 for the sock.
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Alisa told me they sell them and are $8 for the sock.
They do offer a simple sock. My frame got delayed a bit and they sent it to me to compensate - it's just a basic zippered black bag.
My unboxing video coming soon!
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Ah good to know. Thx.
I just got my frame! Did yours come with a seatpost clamp rubber stopper? Mine didn't come with it...
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No, unfortunately.
I just got my frame! Did yours come with a seatpost clamp rubber stopper? Mine didn't come with it...
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You got special treatment >:(
I got nada :'(
They do offer a simple sock. My frame got delayed a bit and they sent it to me to compensate - it's just a basic zippered black bag.
My unboxing video coming soon!
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You got special treatment >:(
I got nada :'(
On the plus side, you can scramble eggs in your bottom bracket area while riding.
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Here's an unboxing video: https://youtu.be/UbQkuAkxCgQ?si=4PachminTt-CH0Nh (https://youtu.be/UbQkuAkxCgQ?si=4PachminTt-CH0Nh)
Hopefully I'll be able to do a build video next, and then some ride review.
First impressions: I'm impressed, it's more refined than what I expected!
[Edit: in case the URL above doesn't display, here is a link: https://youtu.be/UbQkuAkxCgQ?si=4PachminTt-CH0Nh]
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loving that video
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What am I doing wrong? I copy and paste the URL but it doesn’t show… I pasted the link with the link button first, and then manually, but neither seems to work.
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Same thing happened to me. No matter how I post the URL link, nothing would shown, frustrated.
I don't think you did anything wrong.
What am I doing wrong? I copy and paste the URL but it doesn’t show… I pasted the link with the link button first, and then manually, but neither seems to work.
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The links are showing now, I posted from my phone instead of PC, who knew!? :P
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weight on mine. Did not removed the plastic shipping axle tab from frame nor fork.
415g fork
1160g frame
size 52
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1160g for a 52 is much more than advertised. What's included? i see you weight the fork with the thru axle, for example, you should substract it. Ditto for the frame if you included it?
The plastic cable guides should weigh almost nothing, but maybe 15g? The derailleur hangers, front and back, are probably one? And the bottle cages bolts? Is the down tube sock included?
My 268 was 1160g in matt black, 1190g in gloss black, with cable guides, with both derailleur hangers, and bottle cages bolts. Medium.
According to LT, there should be a several hundred gram difference between the 268 and the 301.
Yes, white paint weighs more, but still...
Yeah my 52 weighs 977 without removing any of the plastic guides and bits (with metallic gray paint though).
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Hello road people. I'm just occasionally browsing frames in here.
I'm kinda concerned about BB. It's a bit unclear from pics, but it seems that the BB is made of two thin and narrow separate hubs with thread (similar to "Factor Ostro"). Alignment can be a problem, sure, but I'm more worried about the reliability of such an approach. I'm not familiar with T47 BB road frames, so unsure if this's a common practice among chinese manufacturers and if the whole structure can hold under lots of load in a continuous manner.
So, I wonder if this construction is somewhat reliable or if there're any failure statistics already.
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The T47 is the lastest standard and, from what I hear, universaly praised. The alloy inlets make it way easier for the hole to be round and in spec, than with pressfit aproaches. Also, it is large and acomodates for bigger bearings. It is one of the many pros for that farmeset, imo.
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Yes, I understand and have no problems with T47 as a standard, it's a good improvement.
I'm worried about mounting these small aluminum pieces in this particular (and some similar) case within a carbon matrix. Even fancy brands had problems with a proper adhesion between aluminum and carbon, and here, the contact surface is even smaller (compared to the most common bulky one-piece insert approach), and it's chinese (with quite random QC) manufacturing.
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It looks rather narrow, thats true. Only time will tell, I guess.
I am more concerned about the longevity of the closing machanism of the downtube latch. It has to hold the momentum of a waterbottle. Any opinions on that, anyone?
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It looks rather narrow, thats true. Only time will tell, I guess.
I am more concerned about the longevity of the closing machanism of the downtube latch. It has to hold the momentum of a waterbottle. Any opinions on that, anyone?
Here is a short video on opening and closing the latch: https://youtu.be/Kc6TbN95QW8?si=rJybJezpOjw5A6xx
I believe the Trek Domane and Specialized Diverge also have the latch underneath the downtube water bottle - I've never used these bikes but from what I can tell, these latches seem pretty solid. The latch on my 301 doesn't close with a very satisfying click, but I'll come back here and post my experience on the road, after I get it built up.
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Here is a short video on opening and closing the latch: https://youtu.be/Kc6TbN95QW8?si=rJybJezpOjw5A6xx
Awesome! Thank you very much! Really looking forward to whatever content you produce with this.
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Really looking forward to whatever content you produce with this.
Pretty happy to see this was not a reply to OralMaster
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Thank you people for sharing experience with this frame.
What kind of hardware is included? two axles, rear hangar for sure. what about headset and spacer?
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Thank you people for sharing experience with this frame.
What kind of hardware is included? two axles, rear hangar for sure. what about headset and spacer?
This is what I paid:
- US$530 for frame, fork & seat post (includes one additional color to base black)
- US$12 for headset
- US$25 for front and rear axles
- US$6 for spare rear hanger (UDH)
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mine is in the LBS waiting to be build up.
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This is what I paid:
- US$530 for frame, fork & seat post (includes one additional color to base black)
- US$12 for headset
- US$25 for front and rear axles
- US$6 for spare rear hanger (UDH)
Hi,
How do you like the quality of the headset, axles, UDH? Aren't the axles very heavy?
Maybe it's better to buy them separately?
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Hi, this is my first post on this website.
I am considering buying this frame and have already had a discussion with Alisa (LT Bike manager).
Everything seems good, but I didn't get a picture of the fork from her, which I need to decide whether to choose FSA ACR or SMR.
Alisa said its headset supports FSA's ACR but didn't clearly state whether it supports SMR or not.
As for me, I prefer to use semi-integrated routing (SMR system) due to my handlebar bag, which requires a round tube handlebar. Also, SMR is easier for maintenance.
So, could anyone share a picture of the fork to find out if it supports SMR?
You can check out the difference between ACR and SMR from the attached file—whether the front hydraulic hose comes from the fork's tube (ACR) or from a hole in the fork (SMR).
P.S. I think the most similar big-brand frame with this one is cervelo soloist.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=66cc79bd7a85dc001b8dba12,638b574ffd9930001c384c91,&builds=66d2879b155f46001bbe75dc,,
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I built 2 268. SMR. Having built 9 such chinese bikes, i'm yet to see the ACR system on any of them.
I would get Alisa to confirm though.
It seems quite optimistic.
Thank you and please share the result when you receive.
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I had this same question for Alisa and she confirmed that the 301D is compatible with the FSA ACR stem
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I’m not sure, I didn’t ask any additional questions about it after her answer and decided to look at different frame options for other reasons.
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I am using the DEDA Superbox with the Deda DCR integrated 1.5 headset which is similar to FSA SMR (but not compatible). Might be an alternative.
https://dedaelementi.com//headset-dcr
https://dedaelementi.com/superbox-bike-stem
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I found a frame from tantan cycling, which seems identical with RD301-D.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1146
So this frame seems open mold frame..
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I found a frame from tantan cycling, which seems identical with RD301-D.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1146
So this frame seems open mold frame..
Nice find! Maybe they can provide large frames, unlike Longteng...
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Try to understand more on this "open mold"...
Q: One mold share by many factories? in this case the same mold used by LongTeng and TanTan? or same mold, same factory makes same frame, putting different labels?
Q: Who own the mold? multiple ownerships? How does the arrangement works if it's shared?
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Try to understand more on this "open mold"...
Q: One mold share by many factories? in this case the same mold used by LongTeng and TanTan? or same mold, same factory makes same frame, putting different labels?
Q: Who own the mold? multiple ownerships? How does the arrangement works if it's shared?
From my understanding, open mold means open for every factories - bought the mold(or design) from a frame design company. So it can be considered LongTeng and TanTan use identical mold (or mold's design) made form same frame design company.
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I plan to buy the RD301 too. So far contact with Alisa has been great and she is very helpful. Here are some of the photos of their show bike (size 52). Nothing special but it's cool to see how the fully asembled frame looks like. I think it looks really good!
Another interesting thing that I found... On one of the photos, you can see (top right) the frame from Ribble? I did not know, that they are producing frames for Ribble, I've only heard about Argon.
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Hi, this is my first post on this website.
I am considering buying this frame and have already had a discussion with Alisa (LT Bike manager).
Everything seems good, but I didn't get a picture of the fork from her, which I need to decide whether to choose FSA ACR or SMR.
Alisa said its headset supports FSA's ACR but didn't clearly state whether it supports SMR or not.
As for me, I prefer to use semi-integrated routing (SMR system) due to my handlebar bag, which requires a round tube handlebar. Also, SMR is easier for maintenance.
So, could anyone share a picture of the fork to find out if it supports SMR?
You can check out the difference between ACR and SMR from the attached file—whether the front hydraulic hose comes from the fork's tube (ACR) or from a hole in the fork (SMR).
P.S. I think the most similar big-brand frame with this one is cervelo soloist.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=66cc79bd7a85dc001b8dba12,638b574ffd9930001c384c91,&builds=66d2879b155f46001bbe75dc,,
Among the pictures of tantancycling FM301, I found SMR-like routing.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1146
So, if those frames are same one, it means RC301-D also support semi internal routing..
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So, if those frames are same one, it means RC301-D also support semi internal routing..
Support for semi internal routing is not really a feature of the frame. Just buy semi internal routed stem, spacers and headset accessories and you're good to go.
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With regards to that picture with the gravel tires, I don’t think that’s the same frame as the LT 301D. It’s missing the Trek-like ridge on the head tube and it looks like it has a round seat post. I noticed that when I visited the TanTan website and 301 listing. But Maza is right. I’m wondering if we could ask the Longteng rep for the semi internally routed headset/spacers or just purchase them ourselves.
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Airwolf is offering something similar....
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804070111591.html?src=criteo&albch=criteo_New&acnt=criteo-B4&albcp=232508&device=pc&clickid=66f1947773f51ff2eefa7c37f80f532d_1727108216_3256804070111591&cto_pld=W7Yi9bdcAAAI_Ew147GM5w&aff_fcid=f714e6da8d7f44ce993deea37eabcb1a-1727108219757-09428-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=f714e6da8d7f44ce993deea37eabcb1a-1727108219757-09428-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=33eb16f44d0442fa9b7e928d79fcc5dc&afSmartRedirect=n&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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Attaching the geometry table that TanTan sent me, matching the Longteng one.
Quoted at
FM301:1set/529usd (include:frame/fork/seatpost/handlebar/spacer)
Headsets:1set/10USD
Thur axle:1pair/20USD
Above is the quotation of black matte.
If you need other colors,
one color:90USD.
Shipping to Italy:150USD.
+5% paypal fees
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I think moving forward 2025 and beyond this LT/Tantan will be the common platform for the "all road" genre.
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This is really intriguing as a low-cost upgrade to my Triban, I already have carbon wheels and a few other parts that I'd like to carry over.
What groupset would you suggest for such a build?
I recently bought some hybrid calipers from ZRace/Onirii, so it would be nice to have cable pulling levers to make use of those.
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I think moving forward 2025 and beyond this LT/Tantan will be the common platform for the "all road" genre.
Regarding 'all road' genre with the frame, it reminded me of the youtube with the post below - and makes me think about the relationship between Ribble and LT bikes:
https://youtu.be/f54R-QxLjvM?si=LigXQFmskOAMKpXF
(From 00:00 to 35:27)
I plan to buy the RD301 too. So far contact with Alisa has been great and she is very helpful. Here are some of the photos of their show bike (size 52). Nothing special but it's cool to see how the fully asembled frame looks like. I think it looks really good!
Another interesting thing that I found... On one of the photos, you can see (top right) the frame from Ribble? I did not know, that they are producing frames for Ribble, I've only heard about Argon.
And, the geometry comparison of the two frames(RD301-D and Ribble allroad sl r which is mentioned in the youtube) is also preeeeetty intersting - fork geometry looks almost same.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=66cc79bd7a85dc001b8dba12,66a7a6c2aa2eff001a7b207b,
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Longteng might be producing frames for Ribble. At first when I saw the photo I thought, that maybe one client just wanted to add a Ribble decal for some reason, who knows? After some time I wanted to check the frame again and then something clicked - I'm still not sure but that's just my theory. Why would they keep the clients frame in their showroom? My bet is - they could be a OEM for Ribble, or they worked with Ribble at one point. Looking at that Ribble frame from photo I sent it might be older project (not fully internal routed, strange looking fork etc.). The fork looks very similar to one on my Romet Huragan DISC 2023. For a fact I know, that Romet also works with Chinese OEM to get frames, I just could not find who it may be... It could be Longteng.
Alisa provided me with enough info about the frame, now it's time to sit and wait for some reviews since I'm debating between RD301, LC LCR017 and Hygge Model S since it's now EPS.
Also as a fun fact, Massi is using the same frame for their Arrow model as Romet for Huragan model ;)
https://www.massi.bike/en/etiqueta-producte/arrow-race-gb/
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Yes, Winow is OEM for Hygge but they told me that they don't install BB shell for them.
I don't know if it changes something in the quality.
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On the 301 and LC 17, the tyre clearance and vibe of the bikes are pretty different. Hygge is not on my radar, starting with the ugly paintjobs. Hygge would have to pay me to ride a frame that says Hygge on it. Would be like somehow having to ride a bike that says wallmart on it and be expected to be psyched about it.
I know that these 3 frames are different from each other, but that doesn't mean they cannot serve the same purpose. Frame for me should be:
- Pretty stiff, but nothing crazy. My current bike is uber stiff and yet I could live with that,
- Fit at least 30c tires - 32c would be even better and more future-proof, but since I'm light and even 28c (measuring 28mm on rim) is pretty comfy for me 30c is more than fine,
- Modern looking (that's very subjective),
- Fully internal routing (SMR on handlebar is fine),
- Geometry that fits me,
- Fit the 105 11sp mechanical group with hydraulic brakes (I already have that ready to fit on new bike).
All of these frames actually meets my requirements. Now it comes to the price and how easy the process of getting the frame shipped will be. I live in EU so I'll have to pay at least 100$ for shipping for all of the mentioned frames. All of the frames are around 650-700$ shipped. I'm looking forward to order the RD301 (size 50) because the geometry is almost identical to SL8 size 52 and that fits me very well. That downtube man... The thing is so freaking thick, I don't know if it's only on pictures and videos but that looks so wide and massive. I find it funny, not a dealbreaker tho.
When it comes down to LightCarbon it is what it is, there's a lot of weird things going on with the LCR017 rn. I just want to wait and see what they say about the voids in the carbon and all of that jazz. Not looking to order a frame and then fight 1v1 with a company that says "Our expert says it's fine, if you crash we'll send you new one" because I'm not on a YouTube. I'd rather have that Aliexpress "protection" when it comes to them. Aliexpress is dodgy and all but sometimes they could solve some problems. The ST height is also kinda meh for me, it's just okay - it'll fit anyways. Also, that downtube bus ahh type thing smh, at least it looks skinny.
I have a lot experience with Chinese brands like Hygge, not specifically around bikes but I understand their thought process. They have okay product, pack money into marketing and say yes to everything even if you have to pay extra for something (they will inform you after the fact - obviously). Gotta be careful. You just have to ask questions one by one, be patient and ask the same questions few times in a different way. I like the painting they offer, that's subjective. The funny thing is - this is the cheapest option out of the bunch when I sum everything up and I could get it on AliX in around a month. The Winow frame is also on AliX, almost the same price matte black.
It's 60/40 with RD301 and Hygge. With Longteng I have to pay the invoice and pray that they send me the frame, on AliX (Hygge) I 'm not worried about anything because I could use pay after 30 days method and even stretch that possibly to 45 days - if something goes wrong I just cancel the order. I'm looking forward to Ahodesu build and what he has to say about the frame :)
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Hygge is not on my radar, starting with the ugly paintjobs. Hygge would have to pay me to ride a frame that says Hygge on it. Would be like somehow having to ride a bike that says wallmart on it and be expected to be psyched about it.
I've seen a couple of frames without the HYGGE logo on the down tube. So I think you can ask them to leave it off.
The logo's and text on the frame are some sort of very thin decals. Waterslide or something else. So maybe you can remove them...
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LT is legit, if Lisa sends you an invoice, she's not going to run away with the money. I understand the concern, but for LT, you run no risk. I stopped using paypal years ago, doing bank transfers directly. To be fair, it's also because i absolutely loathe paypal.
If you buy a Winow frame, liaise by email w Terry, you're likely to get a better price than on AliX (TBC, though).
I reached out to Terry, we'll see what he says about the FM236 :) You are right, it is better to contact the factory and Hygge also has very "unpredictable" support. Your comment about the contact with Terry does not really encourage me to get the frame from them haha I have to judge it myself tho.
I know that LT is legit, many chinese factories and manufacturers are great, but it's the same as it is with their frames - it is hit and miss. I believe that the % of getting very bad frame from LT might be lower, but you just cannot be sure. I've been there and right now I'm very careful when it comes to ordering from them. I also don't use PayPal, bank transfer only and I have the option to chargeback if things go horrible. RD301 is tempting tho, looks promising for that price.
I'm kinda considering something like the Delihea Rest Tank 2 - hideous name but the geometry is close to SL8/SL7. No idea who produces the frames, it is the same as TFSA so it might be open mould, no idea if it's EPS or not. It sits at the last place on my list, probably won't get it.
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For those who decided to order from LongTeng, just keep this in mind...
-Does not come with rubber cover for the seat tube/seatpost junction.
-Does not come with internal storage bag for the downtube storage opening, for me. I think the other buyer got it.
that's the minor negatives when order direct from the factory, they don't supply you all the non-essential accessories. Make sure you check with them if it comes with the above when ordering.
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I know that these 3 frames are different from each other, but that doesn't mean they cannot serve the same purpose. Frame for me should be:
- Pretty stiff, but nothing crazy. My current bike is uber stiff and yet I could live with that,
- Fit at least 30c tires - 32c would be even better and more future-proof, but since I'm light and even 28c (measuring 28mm on rim) is pretty comfy for me 30c is more than fine,
- Modern looking (that's very subjective),
- Fully internal routing (SMR on handlebar is fine),
- Geometry that fits me,
- Fit the 105 11sp mechanical group with hydraulic brakes (I already have that ready to fit on new bike).
All of these frames actually meets my requirements. Now it comes to the price and how easy the process of getting the frame shipped will be. I live in EU so I'll have to pay at least 100$ for shipping for all of the mentioned frames. All of the frames are around 650-700$ shipped. I'm looking forward to order the RD301 (size 50) because the geometry is almost identical to SL8 size 52 and that fits me very well. That downtube man... The thing is so freaking thick, I don't know if it's only on pictures and videos but that looks so wide and massive. I find it funny, not a dealbreaker tho.
When it comes down to LightCarbon it is what it is, there's a lot of weird things going on with the LCR017 rn. I just want to wait and see what they say about the voids in the carbon and all of that jazz. Not looking to order a frame and then fight 1v1 with a company that says "Our expert says it's fine, if you crash we'll send you new one" because I'm not on a YouTube. I'd rather have that Aliexpress "protection" when it comes to them. Aliexpress is dodgy and all but sometimes they could solve some problems. The ST height is also kinda meh for me, it's just okay - it'll fit anyways. Also, that downtube bus ahh type thing smh, at least it looks skinny.
I have a lot experience with Chinese brands like Hygge, not specifically around bikes but I understand their thought process. They have okay product, pack money into marketing and say yes to everything even if you have to pay extra for something (they will inform you after the fact - obviously). Gotta be careful. You just have to ask questions one by one, be patient and ask the same questions few times in a different way. I like the painting they offer, that's subjective. The funny thing is - this is the cheapest option out of the bunch when I sum everything up and I could get it on AliX in around a month. The Winow frame is also on AliX, almost the same price matte black.
It's 60/40 with RD301 and Hygge. With Longteng I have to pay the invoice and pray that they send me the frame, on AliX (Hygge) I 'm not worried about anything because I could use pay after 30 days method and even stretch that possibly to 45 days - if something goes wrong I just cancel the order. I'm looking forward to Ahodesu build and what he has to say about the frame :)
FWIW, I was torn between the LT301 and the LC017.
What I really liked about the LC017:
- Weight (slightly lighter than 301)
- 27.2 seat tube
- Seat tube (again) available in both offset and non-offset
- Aesthetics - this is personal but I'm not a big fan of huge oversized tubes, the Aethos is my standard of beauty :)
Why I ended up going with the LT301:
- More neutral geometry - the LC017 has pretty aggressive stack, which I really don't need for what I do on the bike
- Tire clearance up to 38 - I plan to ride 32, and may never need anything wider, but ... always good to have
- Internal storage - I love not carrying stuff in my jersey pockets or saddle bag
- Longteng was more flexible on frame paint/design/decal - LightCarbon seemed a bit more fussy if you ask for anything beyond a basic paint job (but this might be irrelevant if all you need a stealth or simple one-color frame)
As far as weight, my size 52 LT301 ended up weighing 970g, which is the same as Hambini's LC017, so that ended being a non-factor.
I still think the LC017 is a better looking frame, but I'm very happy with my LT301. It's being built up and I will share my ride experience after I spend some time on it.
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I still think the LC017 is a better looking frame, but I'm very happy with my LT301. It's being built up and I will share my ride experience after I spend some time on it.
Is the downtube on 301 really as thick and wide IRL as in the photos? From your video it looked so damn huge, almost e-bike territory haha
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Is the downtube on 301 really as thick and wide IRL as in the photos? From your video it looked so damn huge, almost e-bike territory haha
It's thicc for sure, I think I could eat off of the downtube if I had to ;D
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FWIW, I was torn between the LT301 and the LC017.
What I really liked about the LC017:
- Weight (slightly lighter than 301)
- 27.2 seat tube
- Seat tube (again) available in both offset and non-offset
- Aesthetics - this is personal but I'm not a big fan of huge oversized tubes, the Aethos is my standard of beauty :)
Why I ended up going with the LT301:
- More neutral geometry - the LC017 has pretty aggressive stack, which I really don't need for what I do on the bike
- Tire clearance up to 38 - I plan to ride 32, and may never need anything wider, but ... always good to have
- Internal storage - I love not carrying stuff in my jersey pockets or saddle bag
- Longteng was more flexible on frame paint/design/decal - LightCarbon seemed a bit more fussy if you ask for anything beyond a basic paint job (but this might be irrelevant if all you need a stealth or simple one-color frame)
As far as weight, my size 52 LT301 ended up weighing 970g, which is the same as Hambini's LC017, so that ended being a non-factor.
I still think the LC017 is a better looking frame, but I'm very happy with my LT301. It's being built up and I will share my ride experience after I spend some time on it.
Some tiny corrections lcr017 seat tube is proprietary. It's not 27.2
You can't compare weights unless they are the same size. I assume hambini has a 56 or 58. My 58 with painting and screws was 1.040 o similar
Lc is not crazy agressive. But yes, it's more agressive than lt301.
I'd prefer the internal storage as it's easier to store things than an ugly bar. Now I'm actually looking for a bottle like storage since I only really use 1 bottle.
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Some tiny corrections lcr017 seat tube is proprietary. It's not 27.2
You can't compare weights unless they are the same size. I assume hambini has a 56 or 58. My 58 with painting and screws was 1.040 o similar
Lc is not crazy agressive. But yes, it's more agressive than lt301.
I'd prefer the internal storage as it's easier to store things than an ugly bar. Now I'm actually looking for a bottle like storage since I only really use 1 bottle.
You are absolutely right on the seat tube - I got the LC017 confused with a Workswell frame that I was looking at, good catch. This is what happens when you get older ... and why I'm not slamming my stem :P
On geometry, I should have said that the LC017 was on the aggressive side for what I'm looking for. Just fyi, I did a comparison on Bike Insights - the LC017 has slightly longer reach and lower stack. Of course the lower stack can be mitigated by spacers and such. So it's down to personal preference, both frames appear to be really good for the value.
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Some tiny corrections lcr017 seat tube is proprietary. It's not 27.2
You can't compare weights unless they are the same size. I assume hambini has a 56 or 58. My 58 with painting and screws was 1.040 o similar
Lc is not crazy agressive. But yes, it's more agressive than lt301.
I'd prefer the internal storage as it's easier to store things than an ugly bar. Now I'm actually looking for a bottle like storage since I only really use 1 bottle.
The fidlock one is big enough to store a phone + tools
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They dont offer size 47 de to lack of demand :'( very sad.
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Encountered my first issue building up the rd301d. Bike mechanic discovered seatpost wedge part (that tighten the seatpost) piece does not fit into the given space. Seems to me like the wedge piece is intended for different model.
Currently checking with vendor to confirm if they're sending the wrong part.
@Ahodesu05 Does your seatpost wedge piece fits? maybe I just received the wrong parts.
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Encountered my first issue building up the rd301d. Bike mechanic discovered seatpost wedge part (that tighten the seatpost) piece does not fit into the given space. Seems to me like the wedge piece is intended for different model.
Currently checking with vendor to confirm if they're sending the wrong part.
@Ahodesu05 Does your seatpost wedge piece fits? maybe I just received the wrong parts.
You're lucky you got (a wrong) one: I didn't get one at all :P. And I didn't get a Di2 battery holder for the seat post - I'm not sure if they have one (since it's a non-standard aero seat post) or if I'm supposed to come up with something on my own. I'm following up with Alisa on these issues but they're off on national holiday in China for the rest of the week, will report back when I get some updates. A bit annoying ... but all will be forgiven if the frame kicks ass.
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pics of the wedge part
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Whoops, seems like they went to the wrong shelf on that one!
I'm really curious about this bike, or Tantan FM301 or whichever. When you get the chance it would be interesting to see the actual max tire clearance.
Looks like it could be the ultimate allrounder if you could squeeze in a pair of 40mm gravel tires, very sporty rear at 410mm chainstays!
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You're lucky you got (a wrong) one: I didn't get one at all :P. And I didn't get a Di2 battery holder for the seat post - I'm not sure if they have one (since it's a non-standard aero seat post) or if I'm supposed to come up with something on my own. I'm following up with Alisa on these issues but they're off on national holiday in China for the rest of the week, will report back when I get some updates. A bit annoying ... but all will be forgiven if the frame kicks ass.
For my Carbonspeed aero seatoost, I used two pieces of brake hose foam insulation and some spiral cable bundle wrap as a DIY battery holder.
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Alisa just replied:
"Just checked , the one in the seat tube you show to me is not the right one , the clamp is fit for the handlebar , not for the seatpost . Please check if you get another wedge in your parcel ?"
No other wedge part in the parcel. Sounds like it's missing on my shipment too.
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If only derailleur hangers and these bits and bobs were standardized...
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For my Carbonspeed aero seatoost, I used two pieces of brake hose foam insulation and some spiral cable bundle wrap as a DIY battery holder.
Yep Longteng confirmed, they don’t have a custom Di2 battery holder, so we need to just find a way to make it work.
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Another small detail is that the seat post saddle clamp is made for round saddle rails and there is no adapter for oval saddle rails. I’ve never had a problem with fitting oval carbon fiber rails on standard saddle clamps but just fyi.
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Update....
Alisa replied she will sent out the seatpost wedge and rubber cover too. I think they "acknowledged" the slip up and making it right this time...
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. . . it would be interesting to see the actual max tire clearance.
Looks like it could be the ultimate allrounder . . .
I would be super curious as well. I have a spcycle g056 that is great but I want a more road oriented bike. I messaged through the website 2 weeks ago but no response. Maybe inundated from the holiday.
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I would be super curious as well. I have a spcycle g056 that is great but I want a more road oriented bike. I messaged through the website 2 weeks ago but no response. Maybe inundated from the holiday.
So I got in touch with them and after some back and forth:s they claim the clearance is 6mm on each side (rear) and 7mm (fork) when using a 38mm tire. So that should mean a total clearance of 50mm rear, 52mm fork tire clearance. So squeezing in a 40mm gravel oriented tire might just work which would result in a very capable allrounder!
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Yeah I've a carbon oval rails saddle too. Just ordered a 7x9mm oval seatpost clamp replacement piece. cost me $15. Hopefully it can fits the oval 7x9 carbon rails.
Another small detail is that the seat post saddle clamp is made for round saddle rails and there is no adapter for oval saddle rails. I’ve never had a problem with fitting oval carbon fiber rails on standard saddle clamps but just fyi.
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Which frame size would you choose, I'm currently riding a Canyon Ultimate CF SL 8.0 from 2018 in size S, which actually fits quite well (my height is 174 cm with an inner leg length of 82.5 cm), the Canyon geometry table specifies the bike for a height of 172-178cm.
That would be almost identical to frame size 54, but I would lean towards 52...what do you think?
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Which frame size would you choose, I'm currently riding a Canyon Ultimate CF SL 8.0 from 2018 in size S, which actually fits quite well (my height is 174 cm with an inner leg length of 82.5 cm), the Canyon geometry table specifies the bike for a height of 172-178cm.
That would be almost identical to frame size 54, but I would lean towards 52...what do you think?
play with the website geometry bike geek. make sure you plug in the bikes side by side, make sure you do the work, then no risk of ordering the wrong size. Obviously, consider the size of the cockit / stem as well: usually a 10cm stem is more reliable than 8cm, when it comes to steering. 8cm can be twitchy, although small frames often come with 8cm stems.
If you happen to be running a baby stem because the frame's too big, then factor that in when you compare frames.
The recommended height in geometry tables are valid if and only if you're very normal. For example, i have long legs for my height, which means i've bought frames that we too big for me for years. So don't trust blindly that indication.
Stack and reach dont lie - assuming you're comparing similar bikes.
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Yeah I've a carbon oval rails saddle too. Just ordered a 7x9mm oval seatpost clamp replacement piece. cost me $15. Hopefully it can fits the oval 7x9 carbon rails.
did you order from Longteng or another supplier? Alisa told me they didn’t have that…
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ordered it from Temu:
https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099664747302&sku_id=17592772921628&_x_sessn_id=pnmpgpaiyj&refer_page_name=bgt_order_detail&refer_page_id=10045_1728714793119_9dz8kun41v&refer_page_sn=10045
did you order from Longteng or another supplier? Alisa told me they didn’t have that…
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I am interested in this frame, but have sent two inquiries through the website and gotten zero replies. What is the best way to get a price quote on one of these frames?
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I am interested in this frame, but have sent two inquiries through the website and gotten zero replies. What is the best way to get a price quote on one of these frames?
You can contact Alisa directly: longtengalisa@163.com. She handles sales and is usually very responsive.
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I am interested in this frame, but have sent two inquiries through the website and gotten zero replies. What is the best way to get a price quote on one of these frames?
Never use the contact form of the website. I tried that with different manufacturers and it never worked, even if the website would say "message sent" or something :D most have mail adresses or QQ or Skype contacts somewhere on their website.
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Still waiting for my missing seatpost wedge parts to shown up, been over 3 weeks since Alisa has send it out... >:(
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Still waiting for my missing seatpost wedge parts to shown up, been over 3 weeks since Alisa has send it out... >:(
I did get mine. When I tracked delivery of the package, the first one got stopped by CN customs, so Alisa sent another one. Somehow, now I have both packages lol, so maybe check the tracking. I ended up getting delivery in about 3 weeks after all that.
Btw they do have a saddle clamp for oval carbon rails. But you can also find oval adapters on Aliexpress - the saddle clamp is the same as what I believe is the Ritchey one-bolt clamp, and those can be found in several different sizes on Aliexpress.
Now I can finally build the bike, yessssss!
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So do we have any build or review of this frame?
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finally received the missing parts: seatpost wedge and rubber cover. Gave them to mechanic this morning. But got a call later about some missing parts on the headset spacers... sigh... >:(
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here's the problem, maybe some of you know how to resolve...
Send this to Alisa:
"handlebar are sold together with frameset from LongTeng.
Problem: The spacers from the handlebar and the spacers from the headset has different dimensions size and they are not match together. See attached pics, as you can see the 2 small knobs: the headset spacer one is measured 37.xx on the two small knobs and the handlebars spacers is measured 34.xx, as a results the handlebar cannot be joined to the headset due the both spacers dimensions are different.
手把的垫片尺寸和龙头 headset 垫片的尺寸配不上 手把无法安装。
Just want to confirm if you’re sending the right spacers for the handlebar that will worked with the frame headsets?"
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So do we have any build or review of this frame?
Fingers crossed, I should be picking up the bike from my LBS in the the next 36 hours. I plan to have a chat w the mechanic who built it and get his take on frame quality, any issues he encountered, etc.
I hope I didn't just jinx meself with that...
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What handlebar are you using for the build? I hope you've better luck on the headset and handlebar spacers.
Fingers crossed, I should be picking up the bike from my LBS in the the next 36 hours. I plan to have a chat w the mechanic who built it and get his take on frame quality, any issues he encountered, etc.
I hope I didn't just jinx meself with that...
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What handlebar are you using for the build? I hope you've better luck on the headset and handlebar spacers.
I ordered Kocevlo integrated bars off of Aliexpress because LT didn't have the 380/10 that I was looking for. (I do think headset bits and pieces are somewhat standard so hopefully a good mechanic should be able to find solutions.)
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LT seems to know my issue and they make a video on how to resolve it.
Required to grind off the 2 small knobs using dremel tools.
See video here: https://youtu.be/kjWC6aB_WiI
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Here it is, at last!
I picked up the bike last night from the LBS and spoke to the mechanic who built it up. His take:
- Overall, it was easy to build
- No major issues, nothing was mis-aligned, BB fit was perfect
- Frame quality seems to be good with clean internals
- It didn’t feel all that different from building up major brand bikes
A few other notes:
- The bike was built with Ultegra 8170 Di2 groupset, Elitewheels Edge Ultralight 45s, Kocevlo integrated bars, GP5000 tires, RideNow TPU tubes
- Measured weight: 7.4 kg without pedals (7.65 kg with pedals) – I didn’t go full weight weenie, so there’s probably still room to take that down, but it’s not a priority for me
- I put on 32s and you can see from the pics that there’s plenty of tire clearance, probably room for more than the stated max clearance of 38
- The downtube internal storage is a bit finicky to close – there’s not a solid click to close, and I need to be careful to get everything aligned to close it, otherwise it comes off pretty easily. Once it’s closed correctly, it feels solid. I’ll have to take it for a few rides to see if it’s problematic
- This is one of those frames with a soft top tube where you can press it down with your thumb – the mechanic said that it’s no different from some of the other lightweight frames that he has built, but you shouldn’t sit on the top tube at the stop light or tryna look cool
- The mechanic pointed out that there is a bit of play in the rear wheel – if you push on the wheel from the side, you can feel a bit of looseness; he tightened up everything but it’s still there, he said it’s probably something internal to the hub, it shouldn’t impact the ride, but I’m going to follow up with Elitewheels on this
- I took it for a short spin last night to bed the brakes and there was no seat tube slippage, although it was only a 30 minute spin over smooth surfaces. (I did end up with a flat… I’m not very heavy and rarely flat, I think I’ve flatted maybe 3 times over 15 years, so I guess it’s Mazel Tov!)
The weather here has been crap (typhoon just came through, another incoming), so I may not be able to ride much on the new steed. Once I do, I’ll come back with some initial ride impressions (and au naturel pics).
Cheers.
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- I put on 32s and you can see from the pics that there’s plenty of tire clearance, probably room for more than the stated max clearance of 38
Nice build, I am becoming more and more interested in this as an all-purpose bike!
Speaking of tire clearance, would you be able to provide a picture/ measurement of the rear clearance down by the chainstays as well? That's usually the tight spot so would be great to see. Also, what's the measured width of your 32c tires at present?
Cheers
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Here it is, at last!
Super cool! Thank you
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Nice build, I am becoming more and more interested in this as an all-purpose bike!
Speaking of tire clearance, would you be able to provide a picture/ measurement of the rear clearance down by the chainstays as well? That's usually the tight spot so would be great to see. Also, what's the measured width of your 32c tires at present?
Cheers
I don’t have calipers for exact measurements but hopefully these pics will help. The rim internal width is 22, and it looks like the 32s are 32 when inflated.
There’s been a bunch of content recently from folks like Nero on “all road” bikes like the Enve Melee and Ribble Allroad, which is interesting because I think this frame fits in that category: not an aggressive racing geometry, but not upright like endurance bikes - it sits in the middle where comfort and speed intersect. With a bit of room for rough pavement / light gravel. That’s exactly what I’m looking for, let’s see how this thing actually rides when the weather cooperates.
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Is there any zero offset seatpost on AliExpress that would fit for this frame?
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Is there any zero offset seatpost on AliExpress that would fit for this frame?
Before I ordered, I asked Longteng if they have a non-offset post but they said they didn't. Since this is a proprietary seat post, I doubt there are third party versions, but it doesn't hurt to ask :)
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mine is almost done. Regarding the seatpost I think it's a pretty standard aero seatpost commonly available on Aliexpress. When I get my bike back I will measure the dimensions and shared here, I think you shouldve no problem finding the zero offset one on ALi.
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Despite a blustery day with occasional drizzle, I took the bike out for a maiden ride. I don't want to jump to too many conclusions due to the swirling winds, but here are a few (very) preliminary thoughts:
- The ride is very comfortable. This is probably more due to the bike and less to the frame itself - I'm sure the 32 tires do their part in this.
- Handling is neutral. It's nimble but stable compared to my previous race-oriented bike which feels twitchy in comparison. I like the way it's got a bit of "understeer" in car terms where, unlike my previous bike, not every movement in my arms will cause the bike to react, which gave me a lot of confidence taking corners even on this first ride. I like being able to control the bike using body English through my (ample) hips/butt.
- I do feel cross-winds, more so than on my previous bike. This is probably due more to the 45mm rims than the frame. I don't really notice it until I'm making a turn, where it feels like I'm "catching" the wind in the front wheel. This is my first time on deeper rims, so I probably just need to get used to it.
- The acceleration took me by surprise. Starting at traffic lights, I had to back off a few times because I'd close the distance to others on the road quicker than I'm used to. Maybe this is the aero profile of the bike shining through, or maybe it's the chunky T47 bottom bracket giving it extra stiffness, but the bike gets up to speed quickly. I'm really curious about how the bike does on climbs, given this initial sense of efficiency.
Again, these are just first impressions FWIW. Enjoy the pics!
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Took delivery of the completed bike this morning. Will share more details when I'm home later...
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For those asking about zero seatpost. Here's the measurements of the seatpost:
front view: 26mm
side view: 45.5mm
not a very common measurements as far as I know. But check out this Ali ad:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807058255216.html
look at the SP045 seatpost, at least one of the measurement matched, you need to confirm with the seller about the side measurement and whether it's zero offset (looks like it could be).
Wishing you luck finding one on Ali....
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Few more observations:
-weight is not bad (including spd pedals): 17.23 lb.
-small chain ring is so close to the huge downtube, scary! see pic.
-part of the plastic spacer is rubbing with the headtube when turning the handlebar. Should I sand it down? see pic.
-I've a Goodyear Eagle F1 700x32 tire installed, there're about 9mm clearance between the fattest part of the tire and the chain stay.
-Also noticed some tiny play on the rear wheel as well. I've the YuanAn wheelset from Leon, same factory as the Elite wheels.
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@Ahodesu05 have you figured out the rear wheel play issue? Happened on my rear wheel too, I'm using the YuanAn wheel, which is same as Elite wheels.
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New defect found on my Long Teng. The downtube storage cover is on the locked position, i.e. the latch is pushed down flat. Still I'm able to pull out the cover easily while in locked position.
This is scary when you hit a bump the whole cover will fly off!
I like this bike so much especially the ride and geometry. Just disappointed with this defective design.
See video
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New defect found on my Long Teng. The downtube storage cover is on the locked position, i.e. the latch is pushed down flat. Still I'm able to pull out the cover easily while in locked position.
This is scary when you hit a bump the whole cover will fly off!
I like this bike so much especially the ride and geometry. Just disappointed with this defective design.
See video
Mine is also tricky to close. I have to make sure it's aligned, then I push down at the top and bottom, and double check that it's locked. For me, once it's properly in locked position, it doesn't come loose. I went for several rides with a sock of tubes/tools in the storage area, with full bottles, and had no issues.
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for my cover, there's nothing need to be "aligned", the cover closed and locked snugly. Just with bare hand I can lift the cover so easily. Mostly likely the whole piece will fell off easily over a bump. Currently I'm tying a velcro strap over the downtube to strap it down just with a piece of mine.
UPDATE: Long Teng now blamed the excessive paint on the edge of the cover and downtube that prevent the cover to be locked securely, want me to use a rasp to grind off the excessive paint on the edge along the cover and the downtube opening >:(
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for my cover, there's nothing need to be "aligned", the cover closed and locked snugly. Just with bare hand I can lift the cover so easily. Mostly likely the whole piece will fell off easily over a bump. Currently I'm tying a velcro strap over the downtube to strap it down just with a piece of mine.
UPDATE: Long Teng now blamed the excessive paint on the edge of the cover and downtube that prevent the cover to be locked securely, want me to use a rasp to grind off the excessive paint on the edge along the cover and the downtube opening >:(
Well, here is how mine looks: https://youtu.be/eT8vtAXO97c?si=5btSdcJY2rwItIvu (internal storage updates at 7:15). It's not a big issue for me, fortunately.
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here's my final completed bike.
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@Ahodesu05 Regarding the rear wheel play.... just another guess, may not be the frame nor the wheel, could be the TA causing it? I'm going to try the TA from my previous bike (Java Fuoco), see if that fixes the play.
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@Ahodesu05 Regarding the rear wheel play.... just another guess, may not be the frame nor the wheel, could be the TA causing it? I'm going to try the TA from my previous bike (Java Fuoco), see if that fixes the play.
Sorry, what is "TA" ?
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Sorry, what is "TA" ?
Thru axle I guess.
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Well done! make sure you put helicopter tape / clear protection tape on the frame where you have that strap for the top tube box, otherwise your paint WILL be eaten away, and the paint job will quicly look awful (been there, done that...)
And while i dont understand how that down tube box would need a strap to keep it locked, consider using a large bit of helicopter tape to wrap all around, so it's closed shut, and invisible. But obviously it'd mean you can't open it anymore.
Or an unpainted box, i think the problem here is the paint...
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Long Teng now blamed the excessive paint on the edge of the cover and downtube that prevent the cover to be locked securely, want me to use a rasp to grind off the excessive paint on the edge along the cover and the downtube opening >:(
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Because I ordered the frame, I asked to Alisa about is my frame free from the downtube storage cover issue.
And the attached video was the answer from her.
Does it look fine?
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that video shown nothing.
Try to mount a bottle cage to the cover, then insert of water bottle that's fully filled. Try insert and pull out the water bottle repeatedly to/from the cage (this is real world usage), see if the cover doesn't fell off.
See my earlier post with video that demo how easy to lost the cover.
Because I ordered the frame, I asked to Alisa about is my frame free from the downtube storage cover issue.
And the attached video was the answer from her.
Does it look fine?
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that video shown nothing.
Try to mount a bottle cage to the cover, then insert of water bottle that's fully filled. Try insert and pull out the water bottle repeatedly to/from the cage (this is real world usage), see if the cover doesn't fell off.
See my earlier post with video that demo how easy to lost the cover.
I checked the video, and it seems like the closure system holds the cover with magnatic force only, without any mechanical closing part.
I also somewhat worried about that is this cover can hold the position with water filled bidon...
I really hope it have some kind of mechanical lock system...
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I checked the video, and it seems like the closure system holds the cover with magnatic force only, without any mechanical closing part.
I also somewhat worried about that is this cover can hold the position with water filled bidon...
I really hope it have some kind of mechanical lock system...
There is a clasp, in addition to the magnet. But the clasp is not well designed and doesn’t inspire a lot of confidence. Like I said, it takes some fiddling and pushing and pressing to make sure the cover is closed securely. I’ve also found that if you stuff the storage with too much stuff, to the point where the internal sock presses up against the cover, the closure gets more finicky.
This is something that Longteng can easily fix with a better closure system, and would be disappointing if they don’t TBH.
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Do you think 28mm tires would like weird on this frame, given the wide clearance?
and another question, which rotor size are required without adapters? Is it 160 front and 140 rear?
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I unboxed the frame which had received about 3 weeks ago..
Those are my impressions
1. Paint quality is good. I worried about the actual color, but it looks pretty good.
2. finishing around mounting part is not perfect. But for me it is okay 'cause those part will be covered with bottle holders and bags.
3. Controversal down tube storage is also looks good. It felt sturdy when I held and shaked it by hand. I will test it with a bidon with full water later.
4. I didn't order the handlebar with the frame to use standard handlebar, so had ordered stem and spacers separtely. It seems not matched well with the basic head tube kit of the frame and it makes me worried...
Assembly will be done by myself, so it will take some time(hope to finish in december).
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This frame is super intriguing but I'm struggling with the Trek headtube lol. Does the frame look... good/fast in person? I know it's subjective, but does it pass the vibe check? Also is there a tangible ridge down the center of the seatpost?
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This frame is super intriguing but I'm struggling with the Trek headtube lol. Does the frame look... good/fast in person? I know it's subjective, but does it pass the vibe check? Also is there a tangible ridge down the center of the seatpost?
Yes there is a ridge down the seat post.
As far as looks, yeah this is completely subjective but here is my completely subjective take: it does look "fast" because of its aero profile which is the same/similar profile of just about any other aero optimized frame: over-sized tubes, dropped seat stays, sloping top tube and an exposed aero seat post, and especially if you go for an integrated cockpit with narrow bars, disc brakes and deeper rims. But does it look "good"? I'm less of a fan of the kitchen counter-top wide downtube, and am more into more classic looking frames with reasonably sized oval tubes. So that's why my next project is probably going to be something more Crux and Aethos like, or maybe even a Chinese Ti frame.
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Hi everyone
What would be the difference between Tantan and longteng on this 301 execution ? This is open mold but is the carbon layup the same as well ?
Thanks,
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I am wondering if anyone who has the bike has tried 40mm tires or would think that 40mm tires would fit
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I unboxed the frame which had received about 3 weeks ago..
Those are my impressions
1. Paint quality is good. I worried about the actual color, but it looks pretty good.
2. finishing around mounting part is not perfect. But for me it is okay 'cause those part will be covered with bottle holders and bags.
3. Controversal down tube storage is also looks good. It felt sturdy when I held and shaked it by hand. I will test it with a bidon with full water later.
4. I didn't order the handlebar with the frame to use standard handlebar, so had ordered stem and spacers separtely. It seems not matched well with the basic head tube kit of the frame and it makes me worried...
Assembly will be done by myself, so it will take some time(hope to finish in december).
I started the assembly, and these are my impressions;
1. Bottom part of the BB seems uneven as you can see in the first pirture. I think it is okay considering that the stressed part is near the threaded part. But I cannot but feel some disappointment.
2. I think there should be a cover to seal the outlet of di2 cable which connects to the front derailier, but I couldn't find it.
3. Test for the downtube storage cover. I think it locked pretty well. Please check the video I attached.
I need more time to assemble the frame, but until now, routing the cables (both brake and Di2) is pretty easy, even though it is my first time to assemble a bike.
Hope to share the picture of fully assembled bike within this year lol.
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Have we seen yet any full build with all the issues sorted out? I think rear wheel play hasn't been sorted out yet. It's putting me off buying this frame.
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Would be really great, if anyone could try if a standard 40mm (gravel) tire would fit. For example a Conti speed or schwalbe g-one. If it fits, it would give this frame so much versatility....
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Would be really great, if anyone could try if a standard 40mm (gravel) tire would fit. For example a Conti speed or schwalbe g-one. If it fits, it would give this frame so much versatility....
I would be shocked if a low profile 40 didn’t fit. Someone earlier in the thread took pictures of rudimentary clearance measurements. That being said, 40 would likely be tight for wet/muddy days.
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I started the assembly, and these are my impressions;
1. Bottom part of the BB seems uneven as you can see in the first pirture. I think it is okay considering that the stressed part is near the threaded part. But I cannot but feel some disappointment.
2. I think there should be a cover to seal the outlet of di2 cable which connects to the front derailier, but I couldn't find it.
3. Test for the downtube storage cover. I think it locked pretty well. Please check the video I attached.
I need more time to assemble the frame, but until now, routing the cables (both brake and Di2) is pretty easy, even though it is my first time to assemble a bike.
Hope to share the picture of fully assembled bike within this year lol.
great video! it gives a good idea.
can I ask what bag is that attached to the lid? is it a storage bag with bottle cage screw attachment? do you have a link? thanks.
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My rear wheel play issue is related to the wheel hub bearings. I've the YuanAn wheelset, YuanAn agreed to sent me new bearings. So it's most likely unrelated to the frameset. We'll see after I received them from YuanAn if it resolved the play issue.
Have we seen yet any full build with all the issues sorted out? I think rear wheel play hasn't been sorted out yet. It's putting me off buying this frame.
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My rear wheel play issue is related to the wheel hub bearings. I've the YuanAn wheelset, YuanAn agreed to sent me new bearings. So it's most likely unrelated to the frameset. We'll see after I received them from YuanAn if it resolved the play issue.
Have you tried a different wheel? Does that eliminate the play?
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great video! it gives a good idea.
can I ask what bag is that attached to the lid? is it a storage bag with bottle cage screw attachment? do you have a link? thanks.
It's Fidlock single toolbox(https://www.fidlock.com/consumer/en/twist-single-toolbox/09646-p00002-blk)
I can replace the box to the bidon which support fidlock system.
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That internal BB is less than satisfying. If I recalled ( I don't have pic to shown the internal as I already build up the bike) correctly it should be smooth and no wrinkles like that. You might want to show it to Alisa first before you start the build.
I started the assembly, and these are my impressions;
1. Bottom part of the BB seems uneven as you can see in the first pirture. I think it is okay considering that the stressed part is near the threaded part. But I cannot but feel some disappointment.
2. I think there should be a cover to seal the outlet of di2 cable which connects to the front derailier, but I couldn't find it.
3. Test for the downtube storage cover. I think it locked pretty well. Please check the video I attached.
I need more time to assemble the frame, but until now, routing the cables (both brake and Di2) is pretty easy, even though it is my first time to assemble a bike.
Hope to share the picture of fully assembled bike within this year lol.
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That internal BB is less than satisfying. If I recalled ( I don't have pic to shown the internal as I already build up the bike) correctly it should be smooth and no wrinkles like that. You might want to show it to Alisa first before you start the build.
Yep I sent email to Alisa. I will share the reply when I get.
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It's Fidlock single toolbox(https://www.fidlock.com/consumer/en/twist-single-toolbox/09646-p00002-blk)
I can replace the box to the bidon which support fidlock system.
very nice, thank you.
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That internal BB is less than satisfying. If I recalled ( I don't have pic to shown the internal as I already build up the bike) correctly it should be smooth and no wrinkles like that. You might want to show it to Alisa first before you start the build.
Got a reply from Alisa, and here is the part;
Confirmed with our production manager , the uneven BB inside surface will not effect the safety of the riding , you don't need to worry about it .
sooo... I will try to believe her(and the production manager).
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Got a reply from Alisa, and here is the part;
Confirmed with our production manager , the uneven BB inside surface will not effect the safety of the riding , you don't need to worry about it .
sooo... I will try to believe her(and the production manager).
I don't remember who it happened to but there was one person who had doubts about the manufacturing quality of the carbon and the salesman told him not to worry when the problem really was dangerous. But for your case, I cannot comment.
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Confirmed with our production manager , the uneven BB inside surface will not effect the safety of the riding , you don't need to worry about it .
Yeah, this's a classic way to say "fuq off." They talk to the manager/engineer/god/Lucifer, and everything turns out to be perfect and in order. "No worries, friend, buy more frames." Quite common for chinese carbon manufactures sellers.
I guess if it concerns you a lot, the most reliable option is to show it to someone who might have some skills to test/diagnose. Or seek help from internet experts here and there (I'm not the one, unfortunately).
Otherwise, build and test yourself. You could find some weak points after assembling.
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Hello
I ordered this frame.
Could you please share which T47BB you can recommend ?
Also does anyone know if a Magene P505 crank would fit ? Seems to be a gamble with T47 frames
thanks,
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Hello
I ordered this frame.
Could you please share which T47BB you can recommend ?
Also does anyone know if a Magene P505 crank would fit ? Seems to be a gamble with T47 frames
thanks,
Considering the price, I Choose Praxis T47 – I.B. SHIMANO.
Magene P505 is compatible with Shimano(24mm), so it will work in your case too.
If you have extra money, you can choose change the better bearing(like NTN or ZEN) or you can go Chrisking if you are rich enough.
Because there are several BB brands, find the bb with those terms and choose based on your preference : T47 internal, shimano(24mm).
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Considering the price, I Choose Praxis T47 – I.B. SHIMANO.
Magene P505 is compatible with Shimano(24mm), so it will work in your case too.
If you have extra money, you can choose change the better bearing(like NTN or ZEN) or you can go Chrisking if you are rich enough.
Because there are several BB brands, find the bb with those terms and choose based on your preference : T47 internal, shimano(24mm).
Thanks for your reply.
Magene website says that T47 is not compatible with their crankset. Have you actually installed one ? Do you have pictures of your build ?
thanks,
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Thanks for your reply.
Magene website says that T47 is not compatible with their crankset. Have you actually installed one ? Do you have pictures of your build ?
thanks,
I have been trying to understand this in the recent days and the way I understand it is external T47 is fine, internal T47 depends on a frame and is a gamble.
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I’ve ordered this frame and am building it up with wheels from Peter here.
Any recommendations on cranks and chain rings? Trying to keep the weight down while also keeping the budget ;D I am running Shimano 105 11-speed shifters, derailleurs, and brakes. I also picked up a lightweight cassette from Ztto.
Edit: I don’t know if it matters but I’m quite light 70kg/155lbs but can do a 1100w sprint.
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How are your builds guys? Any new observations? That picture od the inside of bb area got me concerned... Did anybody got hold of the TanTan (Seraph) variety? How is the storage compartment cover? This is one of the highlights of the frame, making it na alternative to Trek Domane, Argon 18 Krypton, BMC Roadmachine or even Enve Fray.
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I can only commenting the storage compartment cover in my case...
Per the advise from LT, I use sandpaper to grind off the excessive paint around the edge of the cover. This seems to stop the cover from "falling off" the frame. I then repeats the fully filled water bottle test again and so far the cover managed to stayed (no detached from frame) when repeatedly taking out/putting back the water bottle. However I still need to test it under real riding conditions. I still have a velcro strapped around the cover as a insurance until I'm confident it would not fell off during ride. I'm just feel traumatized by the thoughts of the whole water bottle + cover detached from the downtube at the middle of the ride, causing a crash! :o
How are your builds guys? Any new observations? That picture od the inside of bb area got me concerned... Did anybody got hold of the TanTan (Seraph) variety? How is the storage compartment cover? This is one of the highlights of the frame, making it na alternative to Trek Domane, Argon 18 Krypton, BMC Roadmachine or even Enve Fray.
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I mentioned that my rear wheel has a bit of wobble and I couldn't figure out why. Attached is a video of the wobble. After pinging both Elitewheels and Longteng, each had different responses:
1. Elitewheels says it might be an issue in their rear hub assembly and sent me a set of new bearings.
2. Longteng says it might a case of the rear through axle being slightly too long. They suggested adding a spacer/washer to the rear drop out per the attached instructions.
I'm hoping to tap into this forum's expertise here: which is likelier to be the root cause? If it's the rear hub, then Longteng gets a pass (and I'll take the rear wheel to the LBS to get this sorted). If it's the rear through axle, then it's disappointing that a frame manufacturer got this wrong (and I'll either add the washer/spacer or maybe upgrade my through axles).
Thanks in advance.
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I mentioned that my rear wheel has a bit of wobble and I couldn't figure out why. Attached is a video of the wobble. After pinging both Elitewheels and Longteng, each had different responses:
1. Elitewheels says it might be an issue in their rear hub assembly and sent me a set of new bearings.
2. Longteng says it might a case of the rear through axle being slightly too long. They suggested adding a spacer/washer to the rear drop out per the attached instructions.
I'm hoping to tap into this forum's expertise here: which is likelier to be the root cause? If it's the rear hub, then Longteng gets a pass (and I'll take the rear wheel to the LBS to get this sorted). If it's the rear through axle, then it's disappointing that a frame manufacturer got this wrong (and I'll either add the washer/spacer or maybe upgrade my through axles).
Thanks in advance.
Looks like the axle does not thread in enough, guessing the spacer would solve it.
But you can find out yourself easily, what happens if you insert another set of wheels?
Any bearing play in the wheelset (maybe test on another bike)?
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Latest decoration on my LT
from the 2nd pic you can see I used the plumbing tape to tape the downtube cover to the frame, as an insurance until I feel confident the cover would stayed locked and won't fell off.
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Looks like the axle does not thread in enough, guessing the spacer would solve it.
But you can find out yourself easily, what happens if you insert another set of wheels?
Any bearing play in the wheelset (maybe test on another bike)?
I only have this bike and wheelset :(
I do plan to try the washer. I’ve read elsewhere that others have the same problem, hope this solves it.
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How are your builds guys? Any new observations? That picture od the inside of bb area got me concerned... Did anybody got hold of the TanTan (Seraph) variety? How is the storage compartment cover? This is one of the highlights of the frame, making it na alternative to Trek Domane, Argon 18 Krypton, BMC Roadmachine or even Enve Fray.
I have ordered from Tantan but have not received the frame yet.
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I only have this bike and wheelset :(
I do plan to try the washer. I’ve read elsewhere that others have the same problem, hope this solves it.
Can you try this?
1) Take photo from the drive side of the frame. Measure how far the through axle is from being flush to the nut / how far in the TA is.
2) Repeat without wheel but thread the axle all the way in. If there is no difference you can be sure the through axle is just wrong size.
In any case you could measure the through axle dimensions. Length from the base to the end. And length of threaded area.
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regarding the rear wheel play on my case... as soon as I seat on the bike, the play is gone from the rear wheel.
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I have ordered from Tantan but have not received the frame yet.
Super. Let us know when it arrives if I may ask.
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regarding the rear wheel play on my case... as soon as I seat on the bike, the play is gone from the rear wheel.
That is not possible. You're just not able to feel the play anymore as to move the wheel you would need to a create force greater than your body weight in the opposing direction. Uneven wear and potential to damage remains.
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Ahodesu05,
I think the #2 response is the correct diagnosis. Checkout my video here, that explained it right there. If it's the hub issue, you SHOULD not see the wobble play like this. Very obvious it's the TA and rear dropout mismatched length.
Now where do I get the 2mm spacer?
I mentioned that my rear wheel has a bit of wobble and I couldn't figure out why. Attached is a video of the wobble. After pinging both Elitewheels and Longteng, each had different responses:
1. Elitewheels says it might be an issue in their rear hub assembly and sent me a set of new bearings.
2. Longteng says it might a case of the rear through axle being slightly too long. They suggested adding a spacer/washer to the rear drop out per the attached instructions.
I'm hoping to tap into this forum's expertise here: which is likelier to be the root cause? If it's the rear hub, then Longteng gets a pass (and I'll take the rear wheel to the LBS to get this sorted). If it's the rear through axle, then it's disappointing that a frame manufacturer got this wrong (and I'll either add the washer/spacer or maybe upgrade my through axles).
Thanks in advance.
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Can you try this?
1) Take photo from the drive side of the frame. Measure how far the through axle is from being flush to the nut / how far in the TA is.
2) Repeat without wheel but thread the axle all the way in. If there is no difference you can be sure the through axle is just wrong size.
In any case you could measure the through axle dimensions. Length from the base to the end. And length of threaded area.
Thanks for this. I did some measurements:
1. When fully tightened to 10NM with the wheel on, the through axle is not flush to the end of the nut/cap on the drive side. It's about 6mm short of flush. When I removed the wheel and inserted the through axle, it's around the same 6mm short of flush.
2. I took measurements of the through axle and the rear drop out area.
Does this help to diagnose the problem?
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This thru axle gives 3mm more capacity. It fits if you trust 2mm is enough.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007535904782.html
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This thru axle gives 3mm more capacity. It fits if you trust 2mm is enough.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007535904782.html
Is the problem that the thru axle is too long? Or is the problem that the threaded part is too short? If I use the washer/spacer as LT advised, does this create any potential issues for rider safety or frame integrity? Thanks for your patience on this :).
@kwantani I believe it's a standard "M2" washer with 20mm outer diameter and 12mm inner diameter. I called around and one LBS has it, I'm also going to check some hardware stores. I'll give this a try and see what happens, but if the thru axle is the root issue, the washer is a temporary solution until I replace the thru axle.
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Is the problem that the thru axle is too long? Or is the problem that the threaded part is too short? If I use the washer/spacer as LT advised, does this create any potential issues for rider safety or frame integrity? Thanks for your patience on this :).
Axle is too long or threads are too short. I would prefer this length axle with longer threading. Based on your measurements there is 6mm space before it protrudes on the drive side.
You should use as thin spacer as possible. With optimum thickness spacer you will be using all 15mm of the threads. 10mm too thick and it will engage only 5mm of the threads. At 15mm too thick the axle won't thread in at all. Someone more proficient with properties of materials is the one who to ask what is the minimum safe threading.
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You should use as thin spacer as possible. With optimum thickness spacer you will be using all 15mm of the threads. 10mm too thick and it will engage only 5mm of the threads. At 15mm too thick the axle won't thread in at all. Someone more proficient with properties of materials is the one who to ask what is the minimum safe threading.
General rule of thumb, is if you have the diameter of the fastener in thread engagement length, you will meet full material strength (for like materials). It's certainly more nuanced than that, and I hate doing thread strength math, but it's a good starting point
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I've an extra TA from my java bike: 165MM M12*P1.5-L16
I can try tonight when I get home... 165mm seems to be on the short side though.
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I've an extra TA from my java bike: 165MM M12*P1.5-L16
I can try tonight when I get home... 165mm seems to be on the short side though.
It is only 3mm shorter than the supplied thru axle with 2mm spacer. This Java TA should fit and fix the play issue. Please try and report! I'm getting ready to make an order on this frame once this issue is sorted out.
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Axle is too long or threads are too short. I would prefer this length axle with longer threading. Based on your measurements there is 6mm space before it protrudes on the drive side.
You should use as thin spacer as possible. With optimum thickness spacer you will be using all 15mm of the threads. 10mm too thick and it will engage only 5mm of the threads. At 15mm too thick the axle won't thread in at all. Someone more proficient with properties of materials is the one who to ask what is the minimum safe threading.
I've also been exchanging emails/pics/videos with Robert Axle Project, and this is their opinion (quoting their email) - it appears to be a multi-faceted issue:
• The axle appears to be bottoming out in the derailleur hanger, so it is too long.
• It looks like the frame is meant to be Universal Derailleur Hanger compatible, but the hanger and axle in the frame are not compliant with UDH standards - they use P1.5 thread instead of P1.0. If you replace the rear axle with another P1.5 axle, it will not be compatible with a real UDH down the road.
• The head of the axle appears to be in a recess on the non-drive side, and will require about ~2mm of spacers to work with the frame. We sell a 12x19x3mm flat spacer on our website that can take up the slack on the axle.
• If you want a shorter axle to replace your stock axle so that you do not need a spacer, we recommend LIG629
• If you want a UDH compatible rear axle and a standard UDH, we recommend LIG603 and our Universal Derailleur Hanger
I shared this feedback with Longteng, asking them to source the right TA and UDH.
My plan is to try the spacer first, and then probably replace the rear TA (good excuse to upgrade!).
Anyway, thanks for all the feedback, hope this also helps anyone considering this frame.
[Edit: when I told Alisa about this, she said they did have problems with the rear TA in the first batch of bikes and have replaced their supply. So for anyone getting this frame, you should make sure they have the right TA. Or just source a true UDH and axles yourself. And, I got some M12 spacers (20 outer diameter, 12 inner diameter) and they fit perfectly and mitigated the wobble. I tried 2 1mm spacers but this induced some brake rub against the disc, so I ended up using just 1 1mm spacer which also does the job. I’ll replace the rear TA eventually.]
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GOOD NEWS!
As soon as I replaced the TA with the one from my other Java Fuoco bike, the rear wheel wobble/play disappeared!
Looks like LongTeng sourced the wrong size TA.
It is only 3mm shorter than the supplied thru axle with 2mm spacer. This Java TA should fit and fix the play issue. Please try and report! I'm getting ready to make an order on this frame once this issue is sorted out.
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I understand Chinese bike in general has no serial number. Is this the case for LT as well? maybe they've some hidden serial # etched in some where. I looked, but so far can't find them.
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I understand Chinese bike in general has no serial number. Is this the case for LT as well? maybe they've some hidden serial # etched in some where. I looked, but so far can't find them.
I asked to LT bike to print serical number(or code) on the frame when I order, the reply was that there is no serial number.
I think they have batch number at least for the manufacture, but it seems they don't like to disclose it.
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Super. Let us know when it arrives if I may ask.
Will do! However, I got an email from Vivian saying that they did not have the fork in matt black which I have ordered. They could send me a raw carbon fork and I could paint it but I don't want that so I rather wait until after their holidays for me to get the fork and frame in the same color. Still snow here in Sweden anyways. They will send the frame + fork in February instead.
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Has anybody put a powermeter on this frame?
I am trying to figure out if the Magene 505 would work or something else.
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I was curious if we could get any ride reports from the members who built up the frame?
I'm heavily considering getting this frame in the near future and was just wondering how it felt ok the road and if anyone could compare it to any other mainstream bikes they've ridden?
Also how offset is the seatpost that it comes with. I've been trying to figure out what size frame to buy. With the offset post I'm leaning towards 50/52. I am 170cm tall with a 79cm inseam?
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I was curious if we could get any ride reports from the members who built up the frame?
I'm heavily considering getting this frame in the near future and was just wondering how it felt ok the road and if anyone could compare it to any other mainstream bikes they've ridden?
Also how offset is the seatpost that it comes with. I've been trying to figure out what size frame to buy. With the offset post I'm leaning towards 50/52. I am 170cm tall with a 79cm inseam?
I'll share some impressions. I'm only at around 500km logged on the bike and I'm comparing this to my previous bike, which is an older 2013 Scott CR1 Pro, so take this FWIW.
- Handling is neutral, as you'd expect from its geometry. It's not a twitchy race or crit bike, but it's responsive enough and confident through corners and on twisty descents. This is something I appreciate, coming from my jittery Scott.
- Ride quality is pretty compliant. I can feel the road but much less of the impact vs. my Scott, if that makes any sense. I have 32mm tires (on wheels with steel - not carbon - spokes) so I'm sure that contributes to the ride quality.
- It's pretty fast. Compared to my Scott, I average 1 - 1.5 km/h faster on my endurance rides. I haven't done too many high intensity efforts but I expect the aero qualities to shine through even more when I do. I don't know if this is just about the frame from an aero perspective: I put on narrower 38cm bars and 45mm wheels, so it's probably the overall package.
- I took the bike on a local climb that averages ~7.5%, where aerodynamics don't come into play, and set a PB (even though I've done mostly base miles recently). This bike is pretty close in weight to my Scott, so it wasn't about weight savings. On steeper climbs, it's more about power and rolling resistance. Frame stiffness (and that ginormous T47 BB) probably helps with more efficient power application, and my new-ish GP5000 with TPU tubes contribute on the rolling resistance front. So the whole bike probably contributes to added speed on climbs, not just the frame.
- Acceleration is pretty good. I mentioned before that on my first few rides through traffic, I had to soft pedal a few times when I found myself getting up to speed a bit quicker than what I was used to.
So, overall, I think the ride is pretty much the all-arounder that it's billed as. I've been pretty happy with it. I haven't ridden other Chinese frames or more modern big brand frames to make those comparisons, but I think what Peak Torque said in one of his videos is probably right: once you get these Chinese frames built up, it's hard to tell them apart.
The seat post offset is around 20mm but you can ask LT to confirm.
I'm 174cm with 78cm inseam and got the 52, which fits me pretty well. I almost got the 50 because I was also a bit worried about the seat post offset impact on reach, but the 52 worked out well for me with the narrower bars helping to reduce the reach a bit to fit me.
Hope this helps!
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Has anybody put a powermeter on this frame?
I am trying to figure out if the Magene 505 would work or something else.
I don't think the Magene works with the T47 bottom bracket - I asked Magene previously and they said no. I have a 4iiii 3+ on mine.
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I'll share some impressions. I'm only at around 500km logged on the bike and I'm comparing this to my previous bike, which is an older 2013 Scott CR1 Pro, so take this FWIW.
- Handling is neutral, as you'd expect from its geometry. It's not a twitchy race or crit bike, but it's responsive enough and confident through corners and on twisty descents. This is something I appreciate, coming from my jittery Scott.
- Ride quality is pretty compliant. I can feel the road but much less of the impact vs. my Scott, if that makes any sense. I have 32mm tires (on wheels with steel - not carbon - spokes) so I'm sure that contributes to the ride quality.
- It's pretty fast. Compared to my Scott, I average 1 - 1.5 km/h faster on my endurance rides. I haven't done too many high intensity efforts but I expect the aero qualities to shine through even more when I do. I don't know if this is just about the frame from an aero perspective: I put on narrower 38cm bars and 45mm wheels, so it's probably the overall package.
- I took the bike on a local climb that averages ~7.5%, where aerodynamics don't come into play, and set a PB (even though I've done mostly base miles recently). This bike is pretty close in weight to my Scott, so it wasn't about weight savings. On steeper climbs, it's more about power and rolling resistance. Frame stiffness (and that ginormous T47 BB) probably helps with more efficient power application, and my new-ish GP5000 with TPU tubes contribute on the rolling resistance front. So the whole bike probably contributes to added speed on climbs, not just the frame.
- Acceleration is pretty good. I mentioned before that on my first few rides through traffic, I had to soft pedal a few times when I found myself getting up to speed a bit quicker than what I was used to.
So, overall, I think the ride is pretty much the all-arounder that it's billed as. I've been pretty happy with it. I haven't ridden other Chinese frames or more modern big brand frames to make those comparisons, but I think what Peak Torque said in one of his videos is probably right: once you get these Chinese frames built up, it's hard to tell them apart.
The seat post offset is around 20mm but you can ask LT to confirm.
I'm 174cm with 78cm inseam and got the 52, which fits me pretty well. I almost got the 50 because I was also a bit worried about the seat post offset impact on reach, but the 52 worked out well for me with the narrower bars helping to reduce the reach a bit to fit me.
Hope this helps!
Thanks,
That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. It seems like I'll probably be okay with the 52 then. What length of stem did you go with?
This frame seems to fit the bill for what I'm looking for. Also Alisa said that the thru axle issue has been completely solved as soon as someone brought it up.
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Thanks,
That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. It seems like I'll probably be okay with the 52 then. What length of stem did you go with?
This frame seems to fit the bill for what I'm looking for. Also Alisa said that the thru axle issue has been completely solved as soon as someone brought it up.
I don’t have a slammed cockpit (just thinking about that makes my back and shoulders ache…), with about 4mm drop from my saddle to stem. I have a 100mm stem, 110mm would have been fine too. I think with my size, the 52 is just right. With a 50, I suspect I might be a bit too far forward in terms of weight distribution.
I should ask Alisa to send me the right through axle!
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You should ask her for the right one.
Thanks for the information!
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Something to note. I had asked for a picture of the fork and confirmed that you should be able to use a FSA NO.69 or a Ritchie E logic IS headset with the RD301 frame that way you don't have to be stuck with an integrated stem/bar combo.
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You got charged for it, so yes! did you get / pay for the sock that goes into the down tube? Having ridden quite a bit my 268, i'd say, consider ordering an extra set of headset bearings, for eg (these fully integrated bikes have much worse weather proofing of the top bearing than old school full external stuff with a big nice tight lip over the bearing). that way they still sell you something as they fix their mistake, it's less of a net loss to them.
But, but, I need a reason to upgrade my TA! Lol i think the reason all of us are on this forum and talking about Chinese bike and bits is that we are for better or worse endlessly tinkering. So give me my excuse to tinker with something that might give me like .005g of weight saving!
I got the storage sock for free, they gave it to me when they were late in delivering the frame.
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Hello
I have just received my Tantan FM301 size 58. Ordered in December and received end of Jan.
Overall pretty satisfied with what i have seen so far and attention to details but i am still building the bike.
However i am very surprised and concerned by the lack of clearance between the frame and the small chainring. The original plan was to fit a Rotor Adlhu crank that i had but i will have to buy a new axle with bigger Q factor (Gravel 24mm axle with 152mm Q). I don't think this bike should be built with a regular road axle (147mm Q for Rotor Aldhu). The issue is coming from the downtube being almost as wide as the BB.
What do you think ?
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Yes I raised this concern on lack of clearance between downtube and small chainring, when I first got my RD301d. I applied some protective tapes on the downtube/BB area where I think it has a high risk of being scratched should the chain dropped.
Hello
I have just received my Tantan FM301 size 58. Ordered in December and received end of Jan.
Overall pretty satisfied with what i have seen so far and attention to details but i am still building the bike.
However i am very surprised and concerned by the lack of clearance between the frame and the small chainring. The original plan was to fit a Rotor Adlhu crank that i had but i will have to buy a new axle with bigger Q factor (Gravel 24mm axle with 152mm Q). I don't think this bike should be built with a regular road axle (147mm Q for Rotor Aldhu). The issue is coming from the downtube being almost as wide as the BB.
What do you think ?
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Existing RD301d users, does your headset rubbing with the upper headtube when turning? Mine does. Plan to grind off the plastic cover spacer that's rubbing with the headtube. If it happened on yours how do you address it?
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Existing RD301d users, does your headset rubbing with the upper headtube when turning? Mine does. Plan to grind off the plastic cover spacer that's rubbing with the headtube. If it happened on yours how do you address it?
Maybe use a headset shim, something like this? https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer
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It either fits, or it doesnt. The chain is always far away from the area where the ring almost meets the frame. As long as this "almost" is more than zero by a sufficient margin to maybe allow for some flex and grit, then no problem. And sometimes you have to use a shim. I had the problem with a non shimano crankset on a velobuild gravel frame, i had to shim it a tiny bit. It just needs to clear the frame, you dont need ample space.
Well, i disagree. There needs to be a minimum gap, at least as wide as a chain width to cope with chain fall off, debris...
And in my case, my power meter does not fit. Hopefully it will with the gravel axle and 3mm worth of spacers.
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Thanks you for the pointer! Q: how much works to install a headset shim like this? Need to re-do all the internal cabling routing over the HS?
Maybe use a headset shim, something like this? https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer
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I should have been more careful in my advice: chances are that you'll want a C-shaped shim rather than an O-shaped one. See part 04 on this Deda parts diagram as an example (part code HDDCRMS - DCR microspacer).
https://dedaelementi.com/media/catalog/product/attachment//d/c/dcr_headsets.pdf
Hopefully, a C-shim won't require much disassembly; make sure though that the dimensions of the shim match those of your headset.
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I should have been more careful in my advice: chances are that you'll want a C-shaped shim rather than an O-shaped one. See part 04 on this Deda parts diagram as an example (part code HDDCRMS - DCR microspacer).
https://dedaelementi.com/media/catalog/product/attachment//d/c/dcr_headsets.pdf
Hopefully, a C-shim won't require much disassembly; make sure though that the dimensions of the shim match those of your headset.
Side cutters are great for converting O-shaped things to C-shapes.
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Thanks for clarifying. Yeah C shim seems more straight forward, can just insert it without disassemble the whole HS stack.
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Dumb question incoming: does anyone know what the heck this is?
I was cleaning my drive train, specifically the cassette, when this plastic thing fell off. (At first I thought it was a huge piece of gunk lol.) Is it part of the rear derailleur or something?
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Dumb question incoming: does anyone know what the heck this is?
Seems to me like the Di2 cable clip from your RD.
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Seems to me like the Di2 cable clip from your RD.
Thanks, you’re right. The clip slides in but doesn’t seem be held in place - it feels like it can fall off pretty easily, or am I doing it wrong?
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Thanks, you’re right. The clip slides in but doesn’t seem be held in place - it feels like it can fall off pretty easily, or am I doing it wrong?
It is normal that it moves around its axle.
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I got my 301D (54cm) delivered! I'll attach pictures as I go through the build. Quick initial question: the headset I got through longteng included a crown race and/or pressing ring. The fork appears to have an integrated crown race, and a quick, dry install indicated it didn't need one. Also, a video posted here from the Longteng factory had the workers putting a crown race on a fork. What do you all think?
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For those asking about zero seatpost. Here's the measurements of the seatpost:
front view: 26mm
side view: 45.5mm
not a very common measurements as far as I know. But check out this Ali ad:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807058255216.html
look at the SP045 seatpost, at least one of the measurement matched, you need to confirm with the seller about the side measurement and whether it's zero offset (looks like it could be).
Wishing you luck finding one on Ali....
Hi
Has anyone find a zero offset seatpost to match this frame design ? Desperately looking for one as Tantan does not make it.
Thanks,
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Finally, I assembled my bike and had a ride.
frame and parts are following;
frameset(frame+fork+seatpost+headset bearings+hanger) : RD301-D size 54
wheelset : farsports waverim 4050 carbonspoke
tire : Schwalbe pro one
stem : fsa na smr stem 100mm -6degree
handlebar : OG-Evkin HB-010 400mm
groupset : shimano 105di2 rear 43/11
crankset : xcadey(include powermeter) 50/34, crank length 165mm
BB : praxis bb shimano T47 ib(for TREK)
pedal : wellgo mg21 flat
saddle : MIXED 7D max
Since it was my first time assembling a bike myself, I encountered several issues that made me regret buying a second-hand groupset, ultimately costing me more than if I had purchased a new one.
Additionally, there was a clearance issue between the frame and the crankset, which I resolved using spacers (1mm + 0.25mm). You can see the resulting gap between the frame and crankset in the attached video.
Apart from that particular issue, all other problems and delays were caused by my own inexperience. Nevertheless, I consider this a valuable learning experience for future bike maintenance and assembly.
Regarding the riding experience, I can't provide detailed feedback yet due to the shortened crank length (originally 170mm), roughly adjusted seat-post height, and significantly increased stack height compared to my previous bike.
But I can confidently say that it works flawlessly, and I'm sure I'll enjoy riding this bike for at least the next several years.
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How is the frame quality? One of the other posters said that his mechanic noticed that the top tube carbon is soft to the touch in places..??! That really scared me off this frame. I'm 105kg I can't be having the frame fold up on me because it's soft in places.!
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Factor came out with the new Monza, reminded me of the LT RD301 as soon as I saw it! Looks a bit more aero than the LT RD301 though.
Integrated storage seems to be picking up steam. Any other Chinese frames with integrated storage?
https://factorbikes.com/bikes/monza
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Hey guys,
I'm stuck between the Tantan FM301 (looks like this one) and the GR201 gravel bike.
I've mostly ridden full-suspension MTBs, so I'm not sure which would be best. I won't be riding trails, but I'll be on quite a few unpaved roads. I figure with the wide tire clearance, these bikes should be good for that, right?
Also, any other tall riders out there? I'm 195cm (6'4") and worried a 58cm frame might still be too small. Thoughts?
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Hey guys,
I'm stuck between the Tantan FM301 (looks like this one) and the GR201 gravel bike.
I've mostly ridden full-suspension MTBs, so I'm not sure which would be best. I won't be riding trails, but I'll be on quite a few unpaved roads. I figure with the wide tire clearance, these bikes should be good for that, right?
Also, any other tall riders out there? I'm 195cm (6'4") and worried a 58cm frame might still be too small. Thoughts?
Light carbon new release for anyone interested
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Also, any other tall riders out there? I'm 195cm (6'4") and worried a 58cm frame might still be too small. Thoughts?
Depends on your liking, just one comment: I am not sure why they call it 58cm frame - no measure on this frame is 58cm.
Seat tube is 553, do your math or compare against your bike if seat post extension is enough for you.
Reach 394, Stack 588 - I consider the stack on the lower end, but it depends how much saddle to bar drop you can or want to tolerate.
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Light carbon new release for anyone interested
I wonder how microsuspension works with those chunky chainstays. I remember back in the day when microsuspension was a thing on XC bikes like orbea oiz and cannondale scalpel they used paper-thin chainstays and it actually did work. On this frame it just looks like a gimmick and a potential failure point.
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Depends on your liking, just one comment: I am not sure why they call it 58cm frame - no measure on this frame is 58cm.
Seat tube is 553, do your math or compare against your bike if seat post extension is enough for you.
Reach 394, Stack 588 - I consider the stack on the lower end, but it depends how much saddle to bar drop you can or want to tolerate.
Thank you! I guess i have to find someone with a similar bike to test.
Can't really compare my current Geometry, since i ride enduro/trail bikes.
Can anyone really confirm, that low profile 40mm tires fit?
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I current have 40s on my 301. Will post a longer post shortly.
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I current have 40s on my 301. Will post a longer post shortly.
I am exited for your review. This is currently my favorite and I think I will oder it within the next few days, unless you have some mayor downsides. The only thing I am worried about is the frame being too small, but 58 already is the largest size.
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Just finished building my FM301 — and I'm loving it so far!
I finally completed the build of my FM301 frame, which I ordered from Tantan. The delivery took a bit longer than expected, mostly due to Chinese New Year and a delay getting the fork in the correct matte black finish. But it all worked out in the end.
Build details:
Frame: Tantan FM301
Wheels: 50mm carbon wheels with carbon spokes and ceramic bearings from Xiamen Carbon Speed (via Peter on the forum)
Groupset: Shimano 105 shifters and brakes
Crankset: Riro carbon, 165mm
Weight is 8.05kg with th 40mm tires, bottle cages, Garmin mount and pedals. So ride configuration.
I started with 30mm Continental GP4000s, which measured about 33mm on the 26mm internal width rims. For my first gravel race, I borrowed a set of 40mm tires from a friend (actual width at the knobs was 40mm). I've now ordered a pair of Hutchinson Caracal Race 40mm semi-slicks for all-around use. I mostly ride endurance routes and have a lot of easy gravel around here, so they should be a good fit.
A few build notes:
There’s a small gap at the headset, but nothing that bothers me.
I went with a SRAM bottom bracket based on a forum tip, but it was very tight fitting the Riro crankset — I ended up using a rubber mallet.
Internal cable routing was easier than expected for a first-time build. I found a great YouTube guide that used a brake cable to route through the bars — worked like a charm.
I opted for a different cockpit setup than the standard one from Tantan to get flared bars. Switching it out was no problem when I asked during the order.
I raced it for the first time in a gravel event — came 4th and was absolutely stoked!
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Just finished building my FM301 — and I'm loving it so far!
I finally completed the build of my FM301 frame, which I ordered from Tantan. The delivery took a bit longer than expected, mostly due to Chinese New Year and a delay getting the fork in the correct matte black finish. But it all worked out in the end.
Build details:
Frame: Tantan FM301
Wheels: 50mm carbon wheels with carbon spokes and ceramic bearings from Xiamen Carbon Speed (via Peter on the forum)
Groupset: Shimano 105 shifters and brakes
Crankset: Riro carbon, 165mm
Weight is 8.05kg with th 40mm tires, bottle cages, Garmin mount and pedals. So ride configuration.
I started with 30mm Continental GP4000s, which measured about 33mm on the 26mm internal width rims. For my first gravel race, I borrowed a set of 40mm tires from a friend (actual width at the knobs was 40mm). I've now ordered a pair of Hutchinson Caracal Race 40mm semi-slicks for all-around use. I mostly ride endurance routes and have a lot of easy gravel around here, so they should be a good fit.
A few build notes:
There’s a small gap at the headset, but nothing that bothers me.
I went with a SRAM bottom bracket based on a forum tip, but it was very tight fitting the Riro crankset — I ended up using a rubber mallet.
Internal cable routing was easier than expected for a first-time build. I found a great YouTube guide that used a brake cable to route through the bars — worked like a charm.
I opted for a different cockpit setup than the standard one from Tantan to get flared bars. Switching it out was no problem when I asked during the order.
I raced it for the first time in a gravel event — came 4th and was absolutely stoked!
Beautiful build! Very surprised at the tire clearance even with the 40c you have on (looks like it fits well!). I wonder how much further you could push it ;)
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Very tempted to get this frame and pair it with the newish p-zero race TLR 40c road tires. Ultimate bike for poorly maintained roads. https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/bike/tyres/catalogue/p-zero-race-tlr/40-622
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Frame s cheap and I trust long teng. If you want 40C, sounds like a solid choice. If you want something fancier, but with 35C clearance only, the Gran Turismo frame by Peter should be a good choice, but it costs more, and for shit roads, the 301 would probably be just fine.
Aren't too many road bikes with these clearances and fairly high stacks yet.
When I upgrade, I'll probably go 35C. I'm yet to see a road bike that looks fast with a wider clearance than that. That Gran Turismo frame looks mint, I plan to build one for a friend in the fall.
The Grand Turismo frame definitely looks good, but its a bit out of my price range and I dont think I need the slacker geometry. Just looking for a slightly more compliant ride on broken pavement - Comming from a race-ish geometry alloy bike.
Im honestly really in between so many bikes like the VB or LT 268, tantan or LT 301, or even some of the newer Tantan models like the TT-X65. Aesthetically I like the tantan x65 the most, but I havent seen anyone experiment with it yet. Maybe ill see if they'll discount me a bit if I pick up both the tantan x65 and 301 then resell the one that rides worse ;D .
@Serge_K would you be willing to share some photos of your 268 tire clearance with your 32c and 34c in the 268 thread? Any chance you could fit 35c?
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Thanks for sharing your experiences. Looks like we've few common setup compared to my RD301d...
-same 3d saddle (ryet)
-same crankset (Riro)
-same 105 groupsets, 12s.
-for tires, I used GoodYear F1 32mm.
-similar weight.
Do you've any issues on your downtube storage cover? e.g. not secured enough, easily falling off with slight bumps?
or
Need to add spacer/shim on the headset to avoid the headset plastic spacer rubbing the top part of the headtube? End up having the LBS fixed my headset by adding the shim to fixed the stiff steering/rubbing problem.
So far been riding on paved road. You've inspired me to take it to the gravels. I might throw in a pair of 700x35 cyclo-cross tires to see how it rides on gravel side. Might even fly it to Italy for Strada Bianche!!!
Just finished building my FM301 — and I'm loving it so far!
I finally completed the build of my FM301 frame, which I ordered from Tantan. The delivery took a bit longer than expected, mostly due to Chinese New Year and a delay getting the fork in the correct matte black finish. But it all worked out in the end.
Build details:
Frame: Tantan FM301
Wheels: 50mm carbon wheels with carbon spokes and ceramic bearings from Xiamen Carbon Speed (via Peter on the forum)
Groupset: Shimano 105 shifters and brakes
Crankset: Riro carbon, 165mm
Weight is 8.05kg with th 40mm tires, bottle cages, Garmin mount and pedals. So ride configuration.
I started with 30mm Continental GP4000s, which measured about 33mm on the 26mm internal width rims. For my first gravel race, I borrowed a set of 40mm tires from a friend (actual width at the knobs was 40mm). I've now ordered a pair of Hutchinson Caracal Race 40mm semi-slicks for all-around use. I mostly ride endurance routes and have a lot of easy gravel around here, so they should be a good fit.
A few build notes:
There’s a small gap at the headset, but nothing that bothers me.
I went with a SRAM bottom bracket based on a forum tip, but it was very tight fitting the Riro crankset — I ended up using a rubber mallet.
Internal cable routing was easier than expected for a first-time build. I found a great YouTube guide that used a brake cable to route through the bars — worked like a charm.
I opted for a different cockpit setup than the standard one from Tantan to get flared bars. Switching it out was no problem when I asked during the order.
I raced it for the first time in a gravel event — came 4th and was absolutely stoked!
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Short update.
I received the Hutchinson Caracal Race tyres (40mm) and did a 125k endurance ride with a couple of friends.
Those tires are super fast! I had no issue keeping up with my friends on 28mm GP 5000s.
Clearance is getting tight with maybe 3mm on each side. The small ”whiskers” that sits on new tires actually hit the frame.
Conclusion is that I think I found my allroad bike and tire set up.
@kwantani
No issues with the down tube storage. I run tiny 12g bottle holders and use metal insulated bottles for the long ride now. The filled bottle is like 1kg and no issues whatsoever.
For the headset I have the opposite issue. There is a gap between the frame and plastic cover. I think something is mounted incorrectly since I have some play in the top of the headset. Most likely me doing something incorrectly. I need to check that.
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Alisa told me this seatpost is 350 and min insert is 10 cm
Does anyone know if there is a different seatpost availabe for this frame? Maybe longer, and maybe with 0 offset? I am afraid I might max out the 58 frames seatpost with my 83cm seat height.
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Contact us for customized painting and decals.
Thanks
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Just to add a little information.
The Hutchinson Caracal Race 40s measure 42mm on my bike with Peter’s 33mm outer and 26mm inner rim dimensions.
Still works fine for the frame but I would not put anything larger and if it was muddy I would probably downsize for more mud clearance.
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Thank you. Next time someone asks me about the difference between 38C clearance and 38mm clearance, i can use your example.
Also, glad to see Hutchinson is finally making fast rolling tyres, this one tested extremely well on RR website!
How is the bike with such chonky tyres? how does it ride?
Maybe have a look at the Hutchinson Blackbird tire.
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Thank you. Next time someone asks me about the difference between 38C clearance and 38mm clearance, i can use your example.
Also, glad to see Hutchinson is finally making fast rolling tyres, this one tested extremely well on RR website!
How is the bike with such chonky tyres? how does it ride?
I also now have the Caracal Race on XM Carbonspeed wheels with 26mm inner width on Peter's Grevil clone-seem just as fast on asphalt as the Schwalbe 38 full slicks I've also used with the added benefit of some grip on light gravel.
If I had the frame clearance, I'd give these a try-looks like you'd be able to lean deep and take a far inside line on asphalt on almost anybody.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/mtb-reviews/schwalbe-g-one-speed-pro (https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/mtb-reviews/schwalbe-g-one-speed-pro)
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Just curious is LongTeng and Tideacebike related to each other? same owner?
Anyway switched out the front 700x32 road tires to 700-x35 gravel on my RD301d and did a mix-terrain/gravel ride over last weekend. White color now became beige.
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Thank you. Next time someone asks me about the difference between 38C clearance and 38mm clearance, i can use your example.
Also, glad to see Hutchinson is finally making fast rolling tyres, this one tested extremely well on RR website!
How is the bike with such chonky tyres? how does it ride?
I think the tires work really well. Did a 160km ride last Friday on tarmac and it rolls super well and corners fine.
I will do a 315km (almost 200 miles) race on Saturday, also all tarmac and I might switch back to GP5000s 30c that I have at home. Would probably save 10w, but it’s 10w for 10 hours so could be beneficial.
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Q: How easy or hard to fit the Hutchinson tires to the wheels? I'm using tpu tubes.
thanks.
Just to add a little information.
The Hutchinson Caracal Race 40s measure 42mm on my bike with Peter’s 33mm outer and 26mm inner rim dimensions.
Still works fine for the frame but I would not put anything larger and if it was muddy I would probably downsize for more mud clearance.
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How do you get to 10W? the measured RR on the website between the 2 tyres is much less, isn't it? is the rest your assumed aero drag difference?
Yes, but it’s per wheel on RR. So I think 2x5w.
Q: How easy or hard to fit the Hutchinson tires to the wheels? I'm using tpu tubes.
thanks.
It was surprisingly easy. The Hutchinson tires are super soft. I could just pull them on with my hands/fingers. I also use TPU tubes.
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Geo Chart attached.
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Hello 👋
Does anybody know if there is another company that offers FM301/Longteng Rd301 frameset?
Asking since there is a "manufacture" in Poland that showed this frameset as their new model. They claim that frame provider is neither Tantan nor Longteng. It's better quality producer that provides this frame for them and another bike manufacturer from Germany - they say.
You can see the promotion movie from their channel. Very nice though.
https://youtu.be/de3Z6HE0VEw?si=TXyYBRXC00XGIYck (https://youtu.be/de3Z6HE0VEw?si=TXyYBRXC00XGIYck)
There is a configurator available. I checked version with aluminium wheels, carbon cockpit and mechanical 1x12 GRX gear. It costs 16400 pln which is around 4500 USD. Found the price really hilarious 😂.
https://raccooncycles.com/produkt/raccon-brigante/ (https://raccooncycles.com/produkt/raccon-brigante/)
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Judging from the paint job on that RACCOON THUNDR, I bet you they'll be having the same issue on the downtube storage cover as mine. The thick paint job covering the edge of the storage cover and the opening will results in the cover falling off easily during usage.
Hello 👋
Does anybody know if there is another company that offers FM301/Longteng Rd301 frameset?
Asking since there is a "manufacture" in Poland that showed this frameset as their new model. They claim that frame provider is neither Tantan nor Longteng. It's better quality producer that provides this frame for them and another bike manufacturer from Germany - they say.
You can see the promotion movie from their channel. Very nice though.
https://youtu.be/de3Z6HE0VEw?si=TXyYBRXC00XGIYck (https://youtu.be/de3Z6HE0VEw?si=TXyYBRXC00XGIYck)
There is a configurator available. I checked version with aluminium wheels, carbon cockpit and mechanical 1x12 GRX gear. It costs 16400 pln which is around 4500 USD. Found the price really hilarious 😂.
https://raccooncycles.com/produkt/raccon-brigante/ (https://raccooncycles.com/produkt/raccon-brigante/)
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As a friend says, never underestimate people's propensity for incompetence. Claims of "we're nobody, but we're better, trust me bro, I'm not Chinese" is at the level of trump gaslighting people when they ask about Epstein.
Ask them why they are better. If they can't back it up, call their bullshit to their face. Be aggressive.
They also have one of the worst websites I've ever seen which is never a sign of competence.
Can't disagree more here Serge. You know nothing about the brand and the owner yet you make bold statements here.
It's a very good website and the configuration tools is superb. You can choose whatever spec you want. When you add up all the parts, 5 year warranty in EU, local service, full build process, custom paint (way better quality then thin Chinese paint) it makes up the price. And I think it's a good option for people who want a custom fitted bike without all the pain process with dealing with different manufacturers etc.
It's a legit brand, runned by a legit and genuine chap.
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Can't disagree more here Serge. You know nothing about the brand and the owner yet you make bold statements here.
It's a very good website and the configuration tools is superb. You can choose whatever spec you want. When you add up all the parts, 5 year warranty in EU, local service, full build process, custom paint (way better quality then thin Chinese paint) it makes up the price. And I think it's a good option for people who want a custom fitted bike without all the pain process with dealing with different manufacturers etc.
It's a legit brand, runned by a legit and genuine chap.
Just to make things clear. I am not saying that the brand is not reliable. They are for sure professionals in what they do and as you said configuration and custom paint is nice. However I was really surprised by the price. In this price range ~4,5k USD you can have top market Chinese frame like SEKA and equip it with mechanical 105/GRX and alu wheels.
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Hello 👋
Does anybody know if there is another company that offers FM301/Longteng Rd301 frameset?
Asking since there is a "manufacture" in Poland that showed this frameset as their new model. They claim that frame provider is neither Tantan nor Longteng. It's better quality producer that provides this frame for them and another bike manufacturer from Germany - they say.
You can see the promotion movie from their channel. Very nice though.
https://youtu.be/de3Z6HE0VEw?si=TXyYBRXC00XGIYck (https://youtu.be/de3Z6HE0VEw?si=TXyYBRXC00XGIYck)
There is a configurator available. I checked version with aluminium wheels, carbon cockpit and mechanical 1x12 GRX gear. It costs 16400 pln which is around 4500 USD. Found the price really hilarious 😂.
https://raccooncycles.com/produkt/raccon-brigante/ (https://raccooncycles.com/produkt/raccon-brigante/)
I often guest in that shop. I spoke with guys about this frames as I know them a bit. They buying their frames from Tideace. Tidaece claims that their using poliurethane blow for better quality. If it something different from the EPS I don't know. Frames are ordered in raw carbon and painted locally in very good quality. For the 301 frame also some changes were made around headset with 3D printing spacers included, as the original had issues with compress.
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Just to make things clear. I am not saying that the brand is not reliable. They are for sure professionals in what they do and as you said configuration and custom paint is nice. However I was really surprised by the price. In this price range ~4,5k USD you can have top market Chinese frame like SEKA and equip it with mechanical 105/GRX and alu wheels.
Than start a brand, offer 5 years warranty in the EU, buy frames, buy parts, build a bike, paint it, make a website, pay people, pay taxes and we will see how much you got left :) some of you guys should really try to run business in EU first and later criticize.
I don't own their bike, but bought few things from their shop online. They're always helpful, offer advice, give discounts. So maybe it's not actually "my local bike shop" but I still support them. They're not ripping anyone, those prices are just a harsh reality for business in EU.
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My point exactly. It's an aliexpress frame "made in EU" because they painted it. Amazing.
Decathlon does the same thing btw, a friend has a van rysel (the all rounder that came out last year) and it says "made in france" on the frame because they paint it in France. It also helps with taxation (Pinarello does the same) as importing a work in process good / materials is taxed much less than importing a finished product, so you protect your margins by "adding value" locally.
It's not exactly a farce, but we're not far off.
It's like me claiming to be a woman because i put make up on. Although to be fair we're now in a police state where we're supposed to pretend it's the same thing and as thinking otherwise is transphobe.
It does not say "made in EU". They do no claim it, do not lie about it. They're open about the fact that they use different Asian OEMs. They make a deal with them, pay for extra QC and offer 5 years warranty in EU, which is even better then a lot of big brands. On their model raccoon brigante it even says "made by ican" or something similar.
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Just to make things clear. I am not saying that the brand is not reliable. They are for sure professionals in what they do and as you said configuration and custom paint is nice. However I was really surprised by the price. In this price range ~4,5k USD you can have top market Chinese frame like SEKA and equip it with mechanical 105/GRX and alu wheels.
Not so sure you could do the Seka build without getting some serious discounting--which a brand won't account for in their pricing.
One thing to remember is that retailing is expensive. In the US, at least, a good rule of thumb for a business is that to achieve an average 7-10% margin, you need to be 3x the cost from a factory when retailing goods. In this community, we are lucky to have the ability to buy directly. I don't think it's a good reason to rake brands that use open molds over the coals or judge their customers.
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My point exactly. It's an aliexpress frame "made in EU" because they painted it. Amazing.
Decathlon does the same thing btw, a friend has a van rysel (the all rounder that came out last year) and it says "made in france" on the frame because they paint it in France. It also helps with taxation (Pinarello does the same) as importing a work in process good / materials is taxed much less than importing a finished product, so you protect your margins by "adding value" locally.
It's not exactly a farce, but we're not far off.
It's like me claiming to be a woman because i put make up on. Although to be fair we're now in a police state where we're supposed to pretend it's the same thing and as thinking otherwise is transphobe.
Same for Adris and Origin.
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Not so sure you could do the Seka build without getting some serious discounting--which a brand won't account for in their pricing.
One thing to remember is that retailing is expensive. In the US, at least, a good rule of thumb for a business is that to achieve an average 7-10% margin, you need to be 3x the cost from a factory when retailing goods. In this community, we are lucky to have the ability to buy directly. I don't think it's a good reason to rake brands that use open molds over the coals or judge their customers.
It seems like a smallish shop could create a brand using open molds at a completely outrageous price level to get access to OEM pricing on components
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Ready to buy the frame for my GF.
Not sure to buy from Longteng, Mondince, tidace or Tantan?
Any recommendations?
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Ready to buy the frame for my GF.
Not sure to buy from Longteng, Mondince, tidace or Tantan?
Any recommendations?
I just bought this Frameset from LongTeng. Alisa has been the best. She is super to deal with. Looking forward to this as an all road/light gravel everyday bike.
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https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/r301d-all-road-bike-frame
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https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/r301d-all-road-bike-frame
@Eddy : Why people would choose Tideace over Longteng ?
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Yes Alisa has been pleasant to work with. However she may not as knowledgeable on accessories that goes with the RD301d. She may've sort them out already by this time, but make sure she got all these items right so you don't waste time go back and forth, which I've experienced during my build process:
make sure:
-You receive the rubber cover for the seatpost/setatube screw.
-You receive the storage bag that goes inside the downtube storage area.
-Rear true-axle has the right length and dimension. She send the wrong size to us.
-She send the wrong headset (with no missing parts) but the right handlebar. End up using drimmel to grind off some headset parts.
good luck and enjoy the bike.
I just bought this Frameset from LongTeng. Alisa has been the best. She is super to deal with. Looking forward to this as an all road/light gravel everyday bike.
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Hello, has anyone build his bike with longteng handlebars? Anyone with experiences so far? Would prefer a light carbon one but they say it‘s 55 Dollars shipping and the longteng one is 85 dollars.
Also can you recommend the frame? The frame must have seen a lot of kilometers by now. I'm planning to use it as a sporty winter racing bike with the option of fitting thicker tires and then doing some gravel riding.
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Just wanted to show the build for my GF.
We went for the first spin today. Nothing bad to report
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Does anybody know if there are is another seat tube which have the same dimensions or at least similar?
I am looking to buy a radar mount which will fit well.
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Just wanted to show the build for my GF.
We went for the first spin today. Nothing bad to report
Nice! Did you get the handlebar from Longteng Alisa also?
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Nope. It is the HBR14 from Lightcarbon
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I ended up here after having to move on from the FM126 frameset on Indiegogo by Longteng/Mondince. I was pursuing the LTK-266-D-SL, which looks awesome, but they still don't have it in 58cm. Alisa pointed me in the direction of the RD301-D, and I've found this thread helpful. I'm in New England and the roads can suck, so a beefier bike kind of sounds nice.
Some concerns:
- I'm looking to get a "fast" road bike - not for crits/elite racing, but something that fits into the shed well when I already have an endurance gravel bike (specialized diverge) and a xc hardtail (specialized epic ht). Is this bike too redundant by already having a gravel bike?
- The downtube is huge, but seems to look relatively ok in some of the painted frames
- Some of the comments indicate it isn't overly snappy, but is similar gemoetry-wise to the sl8 and aethos. Will this bike fill my desire to have a faster, not endurance, but also not all our race geo, road bike? I'm thinking yes as I'll
Is this a leading option for a fast-ish road bike in the under $1k USD price range? Should I just spend more money and reach for the Yoeleo r12? I understand the prices stay low because the marketing is nonexistent, but I have trouble picking frames out when looking at factory/sellers websites like Lightcarbon and LongTeng. I'm interested in doing a complicated paint job (if they agree to it), so price might come up for the aesthetics.
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@Eddy : Why people would choose Tideace over Longteng ?
We got five years warranty.
And offer the shipping with pre-paid custom tax.
Also made the best painting job, accept customized painting and decals.
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Pretty much at the same point right now. I wanna build a fast at least Aero-ish bike during fall/winter. However, currently no clue which frameset to chose…
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Just wanted to show the build for my GF.
We went for the first spin today. Nothing bad to report
Hi! What does that color look like in sunlight? I'm thinking of ordering a frame in that color, but it looks very dark in the photos I've found online.
Thanks!
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Hi, I am also looking for a zero offset seatpost. My saddle clamps won't stay tight and my saddle tilts forward and even backwards when stretching on the bike...