Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Icyseanfitz on October 29, 2024, 11:21:10 AM
-
Hi Guys, starting this thread to follow my new bike build which will be built around xmcarbonspeed's cs-r01 frame, placed my order today with a custom paint scheme (similar to a supersix lab71 scheme). Also ordered a set of their D50CU-28 wheels built up with in house hubs and carbon spokes to go with the frame. I'll attach some images Peter sent me of the frame and geometry.
Would like to put a wireless groupset on it and I'm really leaning towards the wheeltop eds tx as force d2 is so bloody expensive.
Hoping to get this build pretty light so any recommendations for a good value crankset/chainrings would be appreciated, also a good 12 speed lightweight hg cassette recommendation.
Dealing with Peter has been fantastic, had lots of small requests regarding painting and extras and he has replied multiple times every day, very forthcoming with information and very accommodating to any requests. Up to this point customer service has been the best I've dealt with.
-
I am ordering this frame as well. I will be painting mine - just need to come up with an idea. I just did a g056, have my old Pinarello in prep and just stripped a 68' Grandis Superleggera. My brain is hurting a bit LOL. Looking forward to your build.
-
This is the scheme that Peter said they would try their best to emulate without codes.
Interested to see your build too
-
Interested to see your build too
He sent a picture measuring the rear chainstay and it should easily fit my 35mm Gravelkings. It will be set up with wireless SRAM and used on and off road.
-
Hi
where did u find this model. i couldnt ifnd it on their homepage :-\
-
Peter put it on their wheel promotion thread, he emailed me more details when I asked them.
-
For those interested, this frame as well as another new one is listed on Geometry Geeks.
After some thinking I think this is what mine will look like. A bit of an homage bike if you will.
Please don't roast my photoshop skills LOL
-
For those interested, this frame as well as another new one is listed on Geometry Geeks.
After some thinking I think this is what mine will look like. A bit of an homage bike if you will.
Please don't roast my photoshop skills LOL
That looks awesome
-
For those interested, this frame as well as another new one is listed on Geometry Geeks.
After some thinking I think this is what mine will look like. A bit of an homage bike if you will.
Please don't roast my photoshop skills LOL
Look Mondrian, but allergic to blue? interesting :)
If you ever consider selling it, you might want to add the c'est la vie as a vinyl decal yourself. That way, you can change your mind every month and change the logo, and if you sell it, you remove it so it's more neutral for the buyer.
My tractor logo is vinyl, 9000km, hasnt moved. Flawless. And would have been impossible to position it just right if i had asked them to paint it.
Tcheu ste panthere !
-
Look Mondrian, but allergic to blue? interesting :)
If you ever consider selling it, you might want to add the c'est la vie as a vinyl decal yourself. That way, you can change your mind every month and change the logo, and if you sell it, you remove it so it's more neutral for the buyer.
My tractor logo is vinyl, 9000km, hasnt moved. Flawless. And would have been impossible to position it just right if i had asked them to paint it.
Tcheu ste panthere !
I have a hobby vinyl cutter and do this as well. I also use it to make stencils for airbrushing and such. On my g056 I tried each of these but was finally happy with the final one although I was partial to Willie Nelson as a troll logo but people didn't get it LOL
ALSO, are you running 180mm rotors an a fork built for 140/160 ? If so what adapter is that ? - Nevermind, I see that those are post mount calipers. I am still looking for a nice looking flat mount adapter. I may have to make one myself.
-
i asked peter to stick some decals similar to the golden ones on that supersix so we'll see how it turns out, decals went to production i think yesterday.
-
Look Mondrian, but allergic to blue? interesting :)
If you ever consider selling it, you might want to add the c'est la vie as a vinyl decal yourself. That way, you can change your mind every month and change the logo, and if you sell it, you remove it so it's more neutral for the buyer.
My tractor logo is vinyl, 9000km, hasnt moved. Flawless. And would have been impossible to position it just right if i had asked them to paint it.
Tcheu ste panthere !
lovely looking bike, how do you find that crankset?
-
ALSO, are you running 180mm rotors an a fork built for 140/160 ? If so what adapter is that ? - Nevermind, I see that those are post mount calipers. I am still looking for a nice looking flat mount adapter. I may have to make one myself.
160mm front, 180 back. I literally just found a cheap 180 fork adaptor though, i'll report if it works, i'm buying 8, i hope it does...
On the picture are ltwoo brakes, which have some weird format, and they provide the 140 and 160 adaptors for flat mount frames, so what you see on the fork is native from ltwoo. What you see at the back is (from memory) the 140 ltwoo adaptor AND the cheap 3rd party adaptor i found to make it 180. Or maybe it's 160 to 180. Either way the rear has a 3rd party adaptor.
lovely looking bike, how do you find that crankset?
Thanks. I cracked a NDS crank because they didn't give a torque indication (it cracked <8nm), but it was like 30 eur to get a replacement, now i torque at 5.5nm, put a lot of loctite on the screws, and it works well. I've installed 5, everybody's happy. The rings cost 25 eur, and they need replacing every few thousand km (probably 5k max). The aluminium is quite soft. Although you can actually ride the bike with a tooth or 2 missing on the big ring, without problem, dont ask me how i know. Technically you could get an adaptor then run other rings, but i like the look & the price point.
I have a sram red bb30 road crankset, having ridden one after the other, i can't tell them apart, so, they do the job, they're light, and as chinese carbon cranks go, they're cheap.
-
Hi
Where can I order it. I can’t get it in the web…
Thanks for helping
-
Hi
Where can I order it. I can’t get it in the web…
Thanks for helping
The frame? Contact Peter directly via email and he will send on details
-
Thanks.
Done.
-
Rims done
-
bought the majority of the remainder of the parts needed in the aliexpress 11/11 sale, Only thing really left to get is tyres and bartape ;D
Groupset: WHEELTOP EDS-TX https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006971691534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006971691534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Cassette: ZTTO 12 speed ultralight 12-34 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007610723152.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007610723152.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Crankset: RIRO Carbon Fiber 170 50/34 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006481196419.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006481196419.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Chain: YBN SLA1210TIB Black https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005504952160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005504952160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Pedals: TIM 12 LOGO 165g https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003642232349.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003642232349.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Saddle: RYET 3D 135 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249187930.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249187930.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Tubes: Ridenow Ultralight 19g https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005742091890.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005742091890.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.21bd1802fPmDzT)
-
Any recommendations for a good t47 bottom bracket? Frame is t47 68, I assume the 68mm is the width of the BB shell and the length of the crank axle determines whether you get a t47 outboard or t47 inboard?
-
Can you please let us know how much the frame cost and the wheels cost? Also, what is your estimated total bill cost?
-
Can you please let us know how much the frame cost and the wheels cost? Also, what is your estimated total bill cost?
So I believe all in for the frame and wheels plus paint and shipping it was like 1500usd. I'm estimating somewhere around 2500 for final build but I'll price everything up accurately when I've got it finished.
-
Would it be advisable to run 33mm outer width wheels and 32mm tires on this frame or should I just stick with a 28mm outer width?
Peter couldn’t provide a definitive answer but he did provide pics of the rear chainstay and it seems like there would be enough clearance.
BL: looking to build an all-arounder with slightly more relaxed geometry and wider tires. I have mostly been riding more aggressive aero bikes but getting super low has exacerbated some long standing injuries. Trying sustain this hobby for the long haul and not have my body pay a huge price on recovery after a 2-3hr training ride.
-
Would it be advisable to run 33mm outer width wheels and 32mm tires on this frame or should I just stick with a 28mm outer width?
Peter couldn’t provide a definitive answer but he did provide pics of the rear chainstay and it seems like there would be enough clearance.
BL: looking to build an all-arounder with slightly more relaxed geometry and wider tires. I have mostly been riding more aggressive aero bikes but getting super low has exacerbated some long standing injuries. Trying sustain this hobby for the long haul and not have my body pay a huge price on recovery after a 2-3hr training ride.
Don't know to be honest, I'll be trying to run 30s maybe even 32s so I'll be able to give an update on how that goes when I'm putting it together
-
Few bits came in (saddle and tpu tubes), wheels are also finished (look great imo, weight is 1316g for the pair)
Sorry for the large images, site is giving me awful trouble with attaching images.
(https://i.imgur.com/LUVLb9B.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/d0OPQsQ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Njcqrel.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/fCymo0m.png)
-
Nice wheels. Which hubs, spokes and nipples you went with there?
-
Don't know to be honest, I'll be trying to run 30s maybe even 32s so I'll be able to give an update on how that goes when I'm putting it together
I look forward to your update. Right now it’s between the R01 and the LT 301D. I’d be comfortable with 33 OW on the 310. For the R01 I might opt for a 28 OW just to be safe. Intention is to run 32mm… but would love the option to go a little bigger.
-
Nice wheels. Which hubs, spokes and nipples you went with there?
Hubs are peters in house 54t ratchet ones, carbon spokes and id assume alloy nipples.
-
I look forward to your update. Right now it’s between the R01 and the LT 301D. I’d be comfortable with 33 OW on the 310. For the R01 I might opt for a 28 OW just to be safe. Intention is to run 32mm… but would love the option to go a little bigger.
When I get the frame I'll measure the seat/chainstays
-
Frame is done and hopefully getting shipped next week, cant wait to get the build started :) not 100% on the downtube decals but thats my only real niggle, love how close peters painting guy got to the supersix scheme i asked him to emulate, think the seat post paint is a nice touch and will probably help with any seat post slipping issues if they exist. The paint has obviously added a bit to the weight but its nothing massive imo.
-
What size frame and TT length?
-
What size frame and TT length?
Size large, I think it's 557.8mm going by the geometry chart
-
I just placed and order with Peter for this frame. Doing a road build that can handle 32mm tires. Will be experimenting with few different widths. I hope to have everything built up by early January.
Looking forward to providing my feedback on the frame next year.
-
I just placed and order with Peter for this frame. Doing a road build that can handle 32mm tires. Will be experimenting with few different widths. I hope to have everything built up by early January.
Looking forward to providing my feedback on the frame next year.
Looking forward to seeing your bike and opinions on it
-
Absolutely. Build will be 11spd Di2 DuraAce with 30mm wide GoZone wheels. Going to experiment with 28mm front wheel/30mm rear wheel. Eventually move to 32mm wheels. Need a more relaxed geometry compared to my low and long bikes. Lower disc herniation is forcing me to adopt a less aggressive riding style.
-
some of the parts for the build came today, Cranks/chainring, cassette, chain (126 links), Pedals, all alixpress finds, particularly impressed by the black YBN ti hollow pin chain, packaging was beautiful :D Cassette is super light, wonder will it have any durability, Cranks where a little heavier than i hoped but not terrible.
Sorry for the large images but trying to attach photos is not working...again.
(https://i.imgur.com/40FPanc.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/SHFRXLo.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/tPbqjz5.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/kfdLTTZ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Znw8TX0.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/7Jcwl8Z.png)
-
Zrace Rotors arrived, not overly light but not crazy heavy either,
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPZVYBd
-
Super pumped to hear your impressions. Peter just sent me tracking for mine. Should be built up by new years day… maybe.
-
Super pumped to hear your impressions. Peter just sent me tracking for mine. Should be built up by new years day… maybe.
Lucky guys - There is a postal strike going on here and I will be lucky to get mine before Feb. No worries tho, the Snow usually stays until April so I will have LOTS of time for the build.
-
Super pumped to hear your impressions. Peter just sent me tracking for mine. Should be built up by new years day… maybe.
Mine got posted out last week
-
My wheeltop groupset (alixpress - Kyle outdoors store) got rejected at customs and sent back to china due to some issues with the electronics declaration
-
That’s bummer. What was the price of the groupset? While I like mine for a retro rim brake budget build. Any price over the 550.00 and I would strongly consider spending a little extra for an OEM 105 Di2 mini groupset on Aliexpress.
I am cannabalizing another frame I have and putting 9170 DA groupset on my frame. Later next year I’ll consider upgrading to Ultegra 12spd since I am seeing mini groupsets -1000 on Alix. For now 11spd works just fine for me.
I have a brand new Ltwoo ER9 group that I’m tempted to put on the new frame but based on all the issues and unreliability of the RD (based on Serge’s experiences). I plan to test it out on an older frame. The Ltwoo group was under 400, which made it hard to pass on. I feel like Wheeltop’s EDS should be in the 400-450 price range. 550-650.00 is too much.
-
I got it on the 11/11 sale for 450 with a 80 euro coupon and a price adjustment (remove tax I assume). I like that the batteries are mounted to the derailleurs ie proper wireless, I really want zero cabling through the frame bar brakes, so it's either wheeltop or sram and wheeltop weighs around if not better than sram force.
Trying to convince the seller to send another unit via a quicker courier (dpd/DHL etc) and hopefully it gets through, I've no real idea why it didn't tbh, it must be something to do with the lithium batteries (are they removable I wonder?)
-
Okay, at that price I would be comfortable with it. I paid right around 500-520.00 with shipping for my rim brake set.
Completely understand your desire to go all wireless. I had SRAM Force
and did not like it compared with Di2. I have found both Ultegra & DA groups to be rock solid in terms of shifting. The only issue I have encountered with Shimano is I have gone through a number of calipers on both groups. For some reason or another I have had brake calipers just bad and start leaking for no identifiable reason.
-
There is a postal strike going on here and I will be lucky to get mine before Feb.
I had asked Peter NOT to send through UPS because on a few occasions they screwed me on overseas packaging. To my horror (for a few days) he told me that regular post was not possible and HAD to send UPS. I just checked tracking and fees this time were only $30 CDN. I am not sure why it's so low but I will take it. I have paid UPS that much brokerage for 2 tires from Europe LOL.
ETA on my frame is Jan 11.
-
I had asked Peter NOT to send through UPS because on a few occasions they screwed me on overseas packaging. To my horror (for a few days) he told me that regular post was not possible and HAD to send UPS. I just checked tracking and fees this time were only $30 CDN. I am not sure why it's so low but I will take it. I have paid UPS that much brokerage for 2 tires from Europe LOL.
ETA on my frame is Jan 11.
Hi Dave, SO sorry about this, after you told me not to send through UPS, I thought we should be able to send by EMS, but when we were about to send the package out, the EMS staff here they told me not possible to send through EMS because of the strike. And I checked with another client from Canada he said it is OK with UPS shipping and FedEx. Even I charged you on EMS shipping fee which is cheaper than UPS shipping, but not to delay delivery, I sent your package out through UPS as well, since the EMS staff they don't know when EMS gets normal again. Anyway, SO sorry if this causes any inconvenience for you. BTW, UPS charges way more than the fee $30 CDN you mentioned from us.
-
Hi Dave, SO sorry about this, . . . Anyway, SO sorry if this causes any inconvenience for you. BTW, UPS charges way more than the fee $30 CDN you mentioned from us.
You misunderstand me.
I am actually VERY pleased about this. I was expecting UPS to charge me $100+ for brokerage/taxes as I have had to pay in the past for similar priced items. Also I mis-read the tracking, the frame is going to be here tomorrow !
Perter, you are first rate and very patient. Thank you so much for helping me along with this purchase. I will DEF be ordering a set of wheels in a month or two.
-
Bottom bracket arrived,
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqFsNCx
-
You misunderstand me.
I am actually VERY pleased about this. I was expecting UPS to charge me $100+ for brokerage/taxes as I have had to pay in the past for similar priced items. Also I mis-read the tracking, the frame is going to be here tomorrow !
Perter, you are first rate and very patient. Thank you so much for helping me along with this purchase. I will DEF be ordering a set of wheels in a month or two.
Wow, that was fast, I didn't expect so fast delivery. Looking forward to your painted job on the frameset :)
-
Wheels arrived, absolutely delighted with them, close to 1300g for the set and they look amazing imo, love the sound of the freehub, sounds angry
-
Wheels arrived, absolutely delighted with them, close to 1300g for the set and they look amazing imo, love the sound of the freehub, sounds angry
Love me an angry freehub. No need for a bike bell on the trails. Had one person say to me "I wouldn't have known you were there if it wasn't for the noise" I told them that's the point !
-
Wheeltop eds carbon groupset also arrived
-
.
-
Frame came just in time for Christmas
-
.
-
.
-
Btw, has anyone any instructions for putting together one of these internally routed headsets, first time doing one and unsure what goes where
-
Since you're using wireless shifting you just need to route the 2 cables. Nothing special honestly. Just make sure that you route either first the handlebar or leave the handlebar for last.
Quite heavy the frame and some overspray there in the BB..
-
Since you're using wireless shifting you just need to route the 2 cables. Nothing special honestly. Just make sure that you route either first the handlebar or leave the handlebar for last.
Quite heavy the frame and some overspray there in the BB..
The frame is with the seatpost, headset bearings, seat clamp and thru axles so I'm not overly disappointed with it, particularly with the custom paint, the over spray is a bigger concern though, just waiting on the correct t47 tool and I'll try to get the bb in.... slowly, wish I had a tap to clean the threads.
-
The frame is with the seatpost, headset bearings, seat clamp and thru axles so I'm not overly disappointed with it, particularly with the custom paint, the over spray is a bigger concern though, just waiting on the correct t47 tool and I'll try to get the bb in.... slowly, wish I had a tap to clean the threads.
ahhh that makes the difference. Never seen anyone weighting the frame like that ahahah :) Should be light then
-
ahhh that makes the difference. Never seen anyone weighting the frame like that ahahah :) Should be light then
Pure laziness on my part as I had the seatpost inserted and didn't want to remove it
-
Btw, has anyone any instructions for putting together one of these internally routed headsets, first time doing one and unsure what goes where
Quite easy to figure out. Bearings top and bottom, C-ring then top cap. Sometimes if the top cap touches the frame a shim is needed or sand down the top cap but my R01 is perfect (no paint).
For the hoses I route the hoses in the frame, through the bar-connect the bar, connect the levers and then mount the levers to the bar. On the other ends I try to push extra hose into the frame just in case at a later date I need to rebuild. (sometimes a few mm of hose needs to be trimmed off). If you do this use foam around internal hoses so the do not rattle.
-
Quite easy to figure out. Bearings top and bottom, C-ring then top cap. Sometimes if the top cap touches the frame a shim is needed or sand down the top cap but my R01 is perfect (no paint).
For the hoses I route the hoses in the frame, through the bar-connect the bar, connect the levers and then mount the levers to the bar. On the other ends I try to push extra hose into the frame just in case at a later date I need to rebuild. (sometimes a few mm of hose needs to be trimmed off). If you do this use foam around internal hoses so the do not rattle.
Thank you, all the additional spacers confused me but I can see it's essentially the same system as normal just with a cutout for cables. I'm lucky enough I just have to route the brake hoses but I'll put some foam around the rear brake hose which should help.
Just did a rough weigh on the built frame, seatpost, wheels, bar, headset, rotors and cassette and it's coming in at around 3100g, so hoping to get close to the 7kg with this
-
I don’t want to hijack this thread but, I just finished my build. Rode about 80mi in the past 3 days. Initial impressions, very satisfied, very pleased. Overall experience dealing with Peter was excellent, I highly recommend. Full disclosure, this was my very first time purchasing a frame direct from China (not my first chinese frame). I will definitely do it again.
The CS-R01 ticks a lot of boxes for me. MTF if the OP doesn’t mind.
-
@Icyseanfitz, I'am wainting for more photos of full build :)
-
Thank you, all the additional spacers confused me but I can see it's essentially the same system as normal just with a cutout for cables. I'm lucky enough I just have to route the brake hoses but I'll put some foam around the rear brake hose which should help.
Just did a rough weigh on the built frame, seatpost, wheels, bar, headset, rotors and cassette and it's coming in at around 3100g, so hoping to get close to the 7kg with this
You can definitely get it down to 7kg. My full build with bar tape, pedals, bottle cages, front and rear computer mounts comes in 16lb/7.2kg.
-
You can definitely get it down to 7kg. My full build with bar tape, pedals, bottle cages, front and rear computer mounts comes in 16lb/7.2kg.
Could you post pictures?
-
I’ll try to get some glamour shots this weekend. Riding it everday.
-
@Icyseanfitz, I'am wainting for more photos of full build :)
Just waiting on tyre's to be delivered and I'll have it together, so far I'm happy with how it's turning out
-
I don’t want to hijack this thread but, I just finished my build. Rode about 80mi in the past 3 days. Initial impressions, very satisfied, very pleased. Overall experience dealing with Peter was excellent, I highly recommend. Full disclosure, this was my very first time purchasing a frame direct from China (not my first chinese frame). I will definitely do it again.
The CS-R01 ticks a lot of boxes for me. MTF if the OP doesn’t mind.
Out of interest, what have you cycled before and how does the ride feel/quality compare for you?
-
That’s a great question and a very subjective one.
Bikes I have spent a good amount of miles/kms on:
- 2012 Argon 18 Gallium Pro size 54cm (rim brake)
- 2019 Argon 18 Nitrogen size 54cm (disc/Di2)
- 2021 Giant TCR SL size Small (disc/AXS)
- 2021 Elves Falath Pro size 52cm (disc/Di2)
- 2009-10 Specialized Tarmac size 52cm (rim brake/Wheeltop)
Initially, I started out riding bikes that fit, but were too big once I started training more seriously and working towards a more aggressive aero position.
The TCR is probably the nicest bike I have owned but it
always felt slow compared to the Elves, even with Winspace Hypers on it. I should have actually been on an XS, as Giant’s Small size is bigger than I like. When I got the Elves I put 4000mi on it in 4 months. Zero issues. Sizing down and figuring out my reach and stack made a huge difference with my riding.
It really comes down to two things:
- I had knee surgery spring 24’ and was also diagnosed with a herniated lumbar disc fall 24’ (both completely unrelated to cycling). Getting low on the bike for more than an hour was starting to cause me pain that I could no longer tolerate. I searched for a frame that had a shorter reach and taller stack than the Falath. The CS-R01 has solved this issue for me in terms of comfort. I haven’t been riding for the last two months due to my work schedule. My second ride on the new frame was 2hrs. Zero pain or fit issues.
- I have mostly been riding 25mm tires (at 79psi) on 19mm internal width wheels. I tried 28s a few times and really could feel a difference. For the CS-R01 I got 24mm internal width wheels. Running 28mm in the front and 30mm in the rear. Both are run at 59psi with latex tubes. Total game changer as far as ride feel goes.
With only 100mi on the CS-R01, it feels more stable at high speeds. The CS-R01 “feels” stiffer than the Falath and I have put some good sprints down on that frame. It’s been cold and windy all week, during 3 of my test rides I had some very strong headwinds and crosswinds. The bike and wheels handled all these conditions better than any of my previous bikes. All I can tell you is I feel better after riding for 2 hrs than I ever have on any of my previous bikes.
I apologize if I didn’t answer your question. For me this frame was about alleviating a fit issue, due to physiological/health issues. I still want to train hard and ride fast for the next 15-20yrs.
-
That’s a great question and a very subjective one.
Bikes I have spent a good amount of miles/kms on:
- 2012 Argon 18 Gallium Pro size 54cm (rim brake)
- 2019 Argon 18 Nitrogen size 54cm (disc/Di2)
- 2021 Giant TCR SL size Small (disc/AXS)
- 2021 Elves Falath Pro size 52cm (disc/Di2)
- 2009-10 Specialized Tarmac size 52cm (rim brake/Wheeltop)
Initially, I started out riding bikes that fit, but were too big once I started training more seriously and working towards a more aggressive aero position.
The TCR is probably the nicest bike I have owned but it
always felt slow compared to the Elves, even with Winspace Hypers on it. I should have actually been on an XS, as Giant’s Small size is bigger than I like. When I got the Elves I put 4000mi on it in 4 months. Zero issues. Sizing down and figuring out my reach and stack made a huge difference with my riding.
It really comes down to two things:
- I had knee surgery spring 24’ and was also diagnosed with a herniated lumbar disc fall 24’ (both completely unrelated to cycling). Getting low on the bike for more than an hour was starting to cause me pain that I could no longer tolerate. I searched for a frame that had a shorter reach and taller stack than the Falath. The CS-R01 has solved this issue for me in terms of comfort. I haven’t been riding for the last two months due to my work schedule. My second ride on the new frame was 2hrs. Zero pain or fit issues.
- I have mostly been riding 25mm tires (at 79psi) on 19mm internal width wheels. I tried 28s a few times and really could feel a difference. For the CS-R01 I got 24mm internal width wheels. Running 28mm in the front and 30mm in the rear. Both are run at 59psi with latex tubes. Total game changer as far as ride feel goes.
With only 100mi on the CS-R01, it feels more stable at high speeds. The CS-R01 “feels” stiffer than the Falath and I have put some good sprints down on that frame. It’s been cold and windy all week, during 3 of my test rides I had some very strong headwinds and crosswinds. The bike and wheels handled all these conditions better than any of my previous bikes. All I can tell you is I feel better after riding for 2 hrs than I ever have on any of my previous bikes.
I apologize if I didn’t answer your question. For me this frame was about alleviating a fit issue, due to physiological/health issues. I still want to train hard and ride fast for the next 15-20yrs.
Wow great answer, thank you very much, interesting that initially you find it comparable to more expensive frames, with regards sizing down, it's something I've done for this actually, normally I'd ride a 56 but went with the 54 as that was the largest available and easily adjusted for with a longer stem etc.
my experience is mainly in mountain bikes so I'll find it harder to compare but Ive ridden a few different road bikes over the years, currently on a velobuild 086 rim, before that I had a CAAD 10 rim which I loved, also worked on some spendy bikes as a mechanic.
Really looking forward to testing this bike out.
-
I will work on getting some pics up tomorrow. I think you’ll be pleased. Spending 12-14hrs a week on a bike really helps you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t.
-
I will work on getting some pics up tomorrow. I think you’ll be pleased. Spending 12-14hrs a week on a bike really helps you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t.
Looking forward to it
-
My build as it is currently being ridden.
Build details:
Frame: CS-R01
Groupset: Dura-Ace Di2 11spd (previous gen before 12spd)
Cassette: DA 11-28
Crankset: Lexon 24mm with Ryet 50/34 chainrings
Saddle: Ryet carbon budget saddle (fits better than a 300.00 Selle)
Cockpit: Ryet Vero 36cm 100mm
Wheelset: Go-Zone 24mm IW, 30mm EW, 50mm deep
Tires: Pirelli P-Zeros (28mm front wheel, matching wheel profile. 30mm rear)
Latex tubes
Pedals: Favero Assimos
2 issues I encountered in my build:
1) Insert for fork thru axle popped out during a disassembly. I used Gorilla Glue to fix this issue.
2) Rear exit port for Di2 RD cable was blocked by some
carbon excess. I took my time, pushed different routing cables thru. Tested both directions trying to fish the cable. Nothing worked. About 1.5hr of head scratching and filing very carefully with a needle file I threw in the towel. Grabbed my drillset, checked multiple times and looked at my angle of insertion. A quick, very light (I mean light) spin, blockage removed, Di2 cable through. Just a heads up.
PS: Routing fully wired Di2 is not something I will do again. Cockpit, frame, etc. All too much. It took me two days to get everything together. Wheeltop, wireless, 1hr. Ltwoo ER9, 1.5hrs, brakes bled, bike tuned and ridden to bed in brakes. Looking forward to Magene’s groupset release as a possible alternative in a year.
No pedantic weights. I don’t care that much. This was a budget build. How good of a bike could I get for the lowest price. Full disc, fully wired, pedals, both mounts and cages = 16.1lbs/7.27kgs. Consider me pleased. With a lighter cassette, cockpit, crank, chainrings, I could go lower but I’ll wait until my next build in another 2-3yrs. Total cost sans groupset carried over from another bike, 16-1800USD. Besides wheels and frame a lot of my expenses were wrapped up in consumables and finishing kit.
**Disclaimer** Yes, there is a huge ugly stack of spacers under my steerer tube. In addition to the huge head tube of the CS-R01, I still require spacers to ride without pain. I’m disgusted at myself everyday… getting old sucks.
-
My build as it is currently being ridden.
Build details:
Frame: CS-R01
Groupset: Dura-Ace Di2 11spd (previous gen before 12spd)
Cassette: DA 11-28
Crankset: Lexon 24mm with Ryet 50/34 chainrings
Saddle: Ryet carbon budget saddle (fits better than a 300.00 Selle)
Cockpit: Ryet Vero 36cm 100mm
Wheelset: Go-Zone 24mm IW, 30mm EW, 50mm deep
Tires: Pirelli P-Zeros (28mm front wheel, matching wheel profile. 30mm rear)
Latex tubes
Pedals: Favero Assimos
2 issues I encountered in my build:
1) Insert for fork thru axle popped out during a disassembly. I used Gorilla Glue to fix this issue.
2) Rear exit port for Di2 RD cable was blocked by some
carbon excess. I took my time, pushed different routing cables thru. Tested both directions trying to fish the cable. Nothing worked. About 1.5hr of head scratching and filing very carefully with a needle file I threw in the towel. Grabbed my drillset, checked multiple times and looked at my angle of insertion. A quick, very light (I mean light) spin, blockage removed, Di2 cable through. Just a heads up.
PS: Routing fully wired Di2 is not something I will do again. Cockpit, frame, etc. All too much. It took me two days to get everything together. Wheeltop, wireless, 1hr. Ltwoo ER9, 1.5hrs, brakes bled, bike tuned and ridden to bed in brakes. Looking forward to Magene’s groupset release as a possible alternative in a year.
No pedantic weights. I don’t care that much. This was a budget build. How good of a bike could I get for the lowest price. Full disc, fully wired, pedals, both mounts and cages = 16.1lbs/7.27kgs. Consider me pleased. With a lighter cassette, cockpit, crank, chainrings, I could go lower but I’ll wait until my next build in another 2-3yrs. Total cost sans groupset carried over from another bike, 16-1800USD. Besides wheels and frame a lot of my expenses were wrapped up in consumables and finishing kit.
**Disclaimer** Yes, there is a huge ugly stack of spacers under my steerer tube. In addition to the huge head tube of the CS-R01, I still require spacers to ride without pain. I’m disgusted at myself everyday… getting old sucks.
Looks amazing man
-
Oh, I just remembered one other small issue with the frame. Front bolt for the saddle rail clamp was too short. When I initially completed my build, I mounted my saddle and tried to level it up. The bolt was so short that the nose of the saddle was tipping down about 4-5degs. It was an easy fix by running up to the hardware store and sourcing a longer bolt.
I’m going to replace both bolts with a 30mm (rear) 40mm (front) titanium bolts. I usually run titanium hardware where ever they exposed to lots of my sweat.
-
How do you find those tyres? I've the same in 30mm back in front of the way, non tubeless version seemed great weight wise.
Must say installing the wheeltop groupset was a joy really with not having gear cables, brakes where still a bit of a pain through the handlebar but doable with a little persuasion. One cable leaked most of the oil at the lever but that was my fault for not tightening enough.
Interesting regarding the saddle bolts, have you any idea what spec they are? Wouldn't mind getting some ti replacements too so if you spot anything on Ali etc I'd appreciate it if you shared the link
What's the saddle your using? I've a short ryet one but not sure on its comfort so might try a few more
-
For the bolts, M6. Front needs to be at least 40mm if you need a level saddle.
Fir the price, I have been very impressed with the Ryet saddles. I have been playing with a few different sizes and shapes. Might try the Romin copy later this spring.
Regarding the tires, they are great if you’re running tubes. Ran two sets tubeless summer 23’. Had a lot of issues with sidewall weeping over the summer. Got everything sealed using a few different techniques. I feel like the sidewalls are too thin to confidently run tubeless on the Pirelli’s,
just my opinion. Otherwise, if you can get them on sale, they are a great alternative to Conti GP5000s.
Now that I have wider wheels and bigger tires, I may go back to tubeless for road. For the time being latex is working really well for me.
-
I bought the non tubeless version, don't really see the appeal of tubeless for road bikes, punctures are rare enough and low pressure grip isn't really needed unlike MTBs. I'll put some lightweight TPU tubes into them
-
Front bolt for the saddle rail clamp was too short. When I initially completed my build, I mounted my saddle and tried to level it up. The bolt was so short that the nose of the saddle was tipping down about 4-5degs. It was an easy fix by running up to the hardware store and sourcing a longer bolt.
Weird. Mine was fine - using it with a Superflow SLR saddle.
-
Weird. Mine was fine - using it with a Superflow SLR saddle.
You've an R01? How you finding it?
-
You've an R01? How you finding it?
It's being used on the trainer at the moment until I get my fit dialed in - then I can paint it. It's a little low in the front for my taste but with it raised almost as much as biceryder's and a 80mm stem/40mm bar it's ok. I don't even have a working derailleur on it at the moment, I am using Zwift play controllers for shifting and GTBikeV for an app.
-
Yeah, I thought I was going crazy. Finished the bike, 65deg perfect weather, dying to get out, spin through the neighborhood, check bolts, dial in fit, etc. Could not get the forward rail bolt to catch the threads. Eventually, I got it mounted and the nose is pointing way down…
Got an M6 2” bolt from a local hardware store. Still had to grind/file the bolt to exactly 40mm to make it work. Found some ti bolts on Amazon that will fit the bill. Spring/Summer/Fall humidity and temps are so high, I sweat like crazy and even cleaning my bike after every ride sweat just corrodes everything. I have to change my bar tape every 3 months. Time to stock up
on Aliexpress…
-
Tyres arrived, only thing left to do now is bartape and it's finished. Added up the individual weights (uncut steerer, unshortened chain no pedals or bottle mounts) and it's adding up to 6.992kg, my cheapo luggage scale is given me around that too but it's not the most consistent/accurate. Overall very happy with how bike looks and weighs. I'll add pictures once bartape is done.
-
Bike is now fully built, very happy with how it turned out, must weigh it properly but as is without pedals id say around 7.1. Just waiting for the irish weather to give me a day and i will get it out for its first spin.
-
Bike is now fully built, very happy with how it turned out, must weigh it properly but as is without pedals id say around 7.1. Just waiting for the irish weather to give me a day and i will get it out for its first spin.
nice. how high is the saddle? bb at the end of the saddle? thx
frame size?
-
Bike is now fully built, very happy with how it turned out, must weigh it properly but as is without pedals id say around 7.1. Just waiting for the irish weather to give me a day and i will get it out for its first spin.
Holy sky high seat post Batman ! U must be a tall boi ! What frame size it that ?
These days I can only handle 5-8 cm of bar drop, it sucks to get old LOL
Bike is looking great by the way! I am still getting my fit worked out on mine. It looks like I'll be using a 90mm stem with my large frame and about 40mm of stem spacers. I am 6' or ~183cm tall
-
I'm 6 foot on the size 54, I haven't dialed the fit in yet, I'll probably drop it a few cm and might push the saddle back a bit more, haven't had a chance to ride it yet so I've no idea of the fit adjustments needed just yet.
Next thing is to try and find a more comfortable saddle
-
I'm 6 foot on the size 54, I haven't dialed the fit in yet, I'll probably drop it a few cm and might push the saddle back a bit more, haven't had a chance to ride it yet so I've no idea of the fit adjustments needed just yet.
Next thing is to try and find a more comfortable saddle
Mine is a "54" as well which is not quite accurate as the only measurement that is near 54cm is the seat tube. Just about every other bike frame uses the top tube for sizing (actual or effective). I should have gotten a size smaller I think as I do not have the flexibility I once had.
I think you said before you bought a Ryet saddle. I tried a couple different versions and none were very good for me. Right now I am back on my old Prologo scratch that came on my 2014 SuperSix LOL. Thy Ryet is too wide especially on the nose - I need a traditional saddle. I just recieved a knock off https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006282996753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.3bab1802jMHy2r that is only 140mm wide and traditional shape but not mounted yet.
-
Mine is a "54" as well which is not quite accurate as the only measurement that is near 54cm is the seat tube. Just about every other bike frame uses the top tube for sizing (actual or effective). I should have gotten a size smaller I think as I do not have the flexibility I once had.
I think you said before you bought a Ryet saddle. I tried a couple different versions and none were very good for me. Right now I am back on my old Prologo scratch that came on my 2014 SuperSix LOL. Thy Ryet is too wide especially on the nose - I need a traditional saddle. I just recieved a knock off https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006282996753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.3bab1802jMHy2r that is only 140mm wide and traditional shape but not mounted yet.
Funnily enough that's the exact saddle I've used and have currently on the bike, I find the shape fits well but there's very little cushion on it which can impact comfort.
Yeah I had a short nose 135mm wide ryet, just wasn't working for me, sit ones getting uncomfortable on it, if I could find a ryet in a similar shape to my previous saddle I'd try it.
-
.
-
First ride today, 66km, first impressions are rocketship, any bit of power I put in was was translated into speed, when I was up to 30kmh + bike held speed fantastically. Also found it to be quite comfortable although I might need to adjust fit a little.
Only issue I had was when heavy sprinting the front rotor was hitting the pads slightly, not a big issue and I might be able to adjust the caliper to correct it. Overall, love the bike
-
First ride today, 66km,
. . . Overall, love the bike
The color looks great in the sunlight ! I am about to order a set of wheels from him. They have the "wavy" profile rims with a 24 internal width and 24 spoke front/rear on their site. They will be the last parts I need except for tires.
-
have to say to date my experience with peter and the product i received has been nothing but superb, ill buy more from him for sure
-
I am curious how much you guys paid for this frame?
-
Think with the paint it was circa 700usd at the time
-
hi
i really like your bike
question a bit off topic
how do you get on with the Wheeltop group?
-
Not off topic at all, have done 200km on it so far, really like it, need to fine tune a few gears but it shifts nicely and is comfortable