Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Icyseanfitz on October 29, 2024, 11:21:10 AM
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Hi Guys, starting this thread to follow my new bike build which will be built around xmcarbonspeed's cs-r01 frame, placed my order today with a custom paint scheme (similar to a supersix lab71 scheme). Also ordered a set of their D50CU-28 wheels built up with in house hubs and carbon spokes to go with the frame. I'll attach some images Peter sent me of the frame and geometry.
Would like to put a wireless groupset on it and I'm really leaning towards the wheeltop eds tx as force d2 is so bloody expensive.
Hoping to get this build pretty light so any recommendations for a good value crankset/chainrings would be appreciated, also a good 12 speed lightweight hg cassette recommendation.
Dealing with Peter has been fantastic, had lots of small requests regarding painting and extras and he has replied multiple times every day, very forthcoming with information and very accommodating to any requests. Up to this point customer service has been the best I've dealt with.
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I am ordering this frame as well. I will be painting mine - just need to come up with an idea. I just did a g056, have my old Pinarello in prep and just stripped a 68' Grandis Superleggera. My brain is hurting a bit LOL. Looking forward to your build.
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This is the scheme that Peter said they would try their best to emulate without codes.
Interested to see your build too
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Interested to see your build too
He sent a picture measuring the rear chainstay and it should easily fit my 35mm Gravelkings. It will be set up with wireless SRAM and used on and off road.
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Hi
where did u find this model. i couldnt ifnd it on their homepage :-\
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Peter put it on their wheel promotion thread, he emailed me more details when I asked them.
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For those interested, this frame as well as another new one is listed on Geometry Geeks.
After some thinking I think this is what mine will look like. A bit of an homage bike if you will.
Please don't roast my photoshop skills LOL
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For those interested, this frame as well as another new one is listed on Geometry Geeks.
After some thinking I think this is what mine will look like. A bit of an homage bike if you will.
Please don't roast my photoshop skills LOL
That looks awesome
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Look Mondrian, but allergic to blue? interesting :)
If you ever consider selling it, you might want to add the c'est la vie as a vinyl decal yourself. That way, you can change your mind every month and change the logo, and if you sell it, you remove it so it's more neutral for the buyer.
My tractor logo is vinyl, 9000km, hasnt moved. Flawless. And would have been impossible to position it just right if i had asked them to paint it.
Tcheu ste panthere !
I have a hobby vinyl cutter and do this as well. I also use it to make stencils for airbrushing and such. On my g056 I tried each of these but was finally happy with the final one although I was partial to Willie Nelson as a troll logo but people didn't get it LOL
ALSO, are you running 180mm rotors an a fork built for 140/160 ? If so what adapter is that ? - Nevermind, I see that those are post mount calipers. I am still looking for a nice looking flat mount adapter. I may have to make one myself.
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i asked peter to stick some decals similar to the golden ones on that supersix so we'll see how it turns out, decals went to production i think yesterday.
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Look Mondrian, but allergic to blue? interesting :)
If you ever consider selling it, you might want to add the c'est la vie as a vinyl decal yourself. That way, you can change your mind every month and change the logo, and if you sell it, you remove it so it's more neutral for the buyer.
My tractor logo is vinyl, 9000km, hasnt moved. Flawless. And would have been impossible to position it just right if i had asked them to paint it.
Tcheu ste panthere !
lovely looking bike, how do you find that crankset?
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Hi
Where can I order it. I can’t get it in the web…
Thanks for helping
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Hi
Where can I order it. I can’t get it in the web…
Thanks for helping
The frame? Contact Peter directly via email and he will send on details
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Thanks.
Done.
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Rims done
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bought the majority of the remainder of the parts needed in the aliexpress 11/11 sale, Only thing really left to get is tyres and bartape ;D
Groupset: WHEELTOP EDS-TX https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006971691534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006971691534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Cassette: ZTTO 12 speed ultralight 12-34 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007610723152.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007610723152.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Crankset: RIRO Carbon Fiber 170 50/34 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006481196419.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006481196419.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Chain: YBN SLA1210TIB Black https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005504952160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005504952160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Pedals: TIM 12 LOGO 165g https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003642232349.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003642232349.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Saddle: RYET 3D 135 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249187930.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249187930.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Tubes: Ridenow Ultralight 19g https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005742091890.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005742091890.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.21bd1802fPmDzT)
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Any recommendations for a good t47 bottom bracket? Frame is t47 68, I assume the 68mm is the width of the BB shell and the length of the crank axle determines whether you get a t47 outboard or t47 inboard?
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Can you please let us know how much the frame cost and the wheels cost? Also, what is your estimated total bill cost?
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Can you please let us know how much the frame cost and the wheels cost? Also, what is your estimated total bill cost?
So I believe all in for the frame and wheels plus paint and shipping it was like 1500usd. I'm estimating somewhere around 2500 for final build but I'll price everything up accurately when I've got it finished.
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Would it be advisable to run 33mm outer width wheels and 32mm tires on this frame or should I just stick with a 28mm outer width?
Peter couldn’t provide a definitive answer but he did provide pics of the rear chainstay and it seems like there would be enough clearance.
BL: looking to build an all-arounder with slightly more relaxed geometry and wider tires. I have mostly been riding more aggressive aero bikes but getting super low has exacerbated some long standing injuries. Trying sustain this hobby for the long haul and not have my body pay a huge price on recovery after a 2-3hr training ride.
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Would it be advisable to run 33mm outer width wheels and 32mm tires on this frame or should I just stick with a 28mm outer width?
Peter couldn’t provide a definitive answer but he did provide pics of the rear chainstay and it seems like there would be enough clearance.
BL: looking to build an all-arounder with slightly more relaxed geometry and wider tires. I have mostly been riding more aggressive aero bikes but getting super low has exacerbated some long standing injuries. Trying sustain this hobby for the long haul and not have my body pay a huge price on recovery after a 2-3hr training ride.
Don't know to be honest, I'll be trying to run 30s maybe even 32s so I'll be able to give an update on how that goes when I'm putting it together
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Few bits came in (saddle and tpu tubes), wheels are also finished (look great imo, weight is 1316g for the pair)
Sorry for the large images, site is giving me awful trouble with attaching images.
(https://i.imgur.com/LUVLb9B.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/d0OPQsQ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Njcqrel.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/fCymo0m.png)
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Nice wheels. Which hubs, spokes and nipples you went with there?
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Don't know to be honest, I'll be trying to run 30s maybe even 32s so I'll be able to give an update on how that goes when I'm putting it together
I look forward to your update. Right now it’s between the R01 and the LT 301D. I’d be comfortable with 33 OW on the 310. For the R01 I might opt for a 28 OW just to be safe. Intention is to run 32mm… but would love the option to go a little bigger.
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Nice wheels. Which hubs, spokes and nipples you went with there?
Hubs are peters in house 54t ratchet ones, carbon spokes and id assume alloy nipples.
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I look forward to your update. Right now it’s between the R01 and the LT 301D. I’d be comfortable with 33 OW on the 310. For the R01 I might opt for a 28 OW just to be safe. Intention is to run 32mm… but would love the option to go a little bigger.
When I get the frame I'll measure the seat/chainstays
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Frame is done and hopefully getting shipped next week, cant wait to get the build started :) not 100% on the downtube decals but thats my only real niggle, love how close peters painting guy got to the supersix scheme i asked him to emulate, think the seat post paint is a nice touch and will probably help with any seat post slipping issues if they exist. The paint has obviously added a bit to the weight but its nothing massive imo.
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What size frame and TT length?
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What size frame and TT length?
Size large, I think it's 557.8mm going by the geometry chart
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I just placed and order with Peter for this frame. Doing a road build that can handle 32mm tires. Will be experimenting with few different widths. I hope to have everything built up by early January.
Looking forward to providing my feedback on the frame next year.
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I just placed and order with Peter for this frame. Doing a road build that can handle 32mm tires. Will be experimenting with few different widths. I hope to have everything built up by early January.
Looking forward to providing my feedback on the frame next year.
Looking forward to seeing your bike and opinions on it
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Absolutely. Build will be 11spd Di2 DuraAce with 30mm wide GoZone wheels. Going to experiment with 28mm front wheel/30mm rear wheel. Eventually move to 32mm wheels. Need a more relaxed geometry compared to my low and long bikes. Lower disc herniation is forcing me to adopt a less aggressive riding style.
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some of the parts for the build came today, Cranks/chainring, cassette, chain (126 links), Pedals, all alixpress finds, particularly impressed by the black YBN ti hollow pin chain, packaging was beautiful :D Cassette is super light, wonder will it have any durability, Cranks where a little heavier than i hoped but not terrible.
Sorry for the large images but trying to attach photos is not working...again.
(https://i.imgur.com/40FPanc.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/SHFRXLo.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/tPbqjz5.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/kfdLTTZ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Znw8TX0.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/7Jcwl8Z.png)
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Zrace Rotors arrived, not overly light but not crazy heavy either,
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPZVYBd
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Super pumped to hear your impressions. Peter just sent me tracking for mine. Should be built up by new years day… maybe.
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Super pumped to hear your impressions. Peter just sent me tracking for mine. Should be built up by new years day… maybe.
Lucky guys - There is a postal strike going on here and I will be lucky to get mine before Feb. No worries tho, the Snow usually stays until April so I will have LOTS of time for the build.
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Super pumped to hear your impressions. Peter just sent me tracking for mine. Should be built up by new years day… maybe.
Mine got posted out last week
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My wheeltop groupset (alixpress - Kyle outdoors store) got rejected at customs and sent back to china due to some issues with the electronics declaration
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That’s bummer. What was the price of the groupset? While I like mine for a retro rim brake budget build. Any price over the 550.00 and I would strongly consider spending a little extra for an OEM 105 Di2 mini groupset on Aliexpress.
I am cannabalizing another frame I have and putting 9170 DA groupset on my frame. Later next year I’ll consider upgrading to Ultegra 12spd since I am seeing mini groupsets -1000 on Alix. For now 11spd works just fine for me.
I have a brand new Ltwoo ER9 group that I’m tempted to put on the new frame but based on all the issues and unreliability of the RD (based on Serge’s experiences). I plan to test it out on an older frame. The Ltwoo group was under 400, which made it hard to pass on. I feel like Wheeltop’s EDS should be in the 400-450 price range. 550-650.00 is too much.
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I got it on the 11/11 sale for 450 with a 80 euro coupon and a price adjustment (remove tax I assume). I like that the batteries are mounted to the derailleurs ie proper wireless, I really want zero cabling through the frame bar brakes, so it's either wheeltop or sram and wheeltop weighs around if not better than sram force.
Trying to convince the seller to send another unit via a quicker courier (dpd/DHL etc) and hopefully it gets through, I've no real idea why it didn't tbh, it must be something to do with the lithium batteries (are they removable I wonder?)
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Okay, at that price I would be comfortable with it. I paid right around 500-520.00 with shipping for my rim brake set.
Completely understand your desire to go all wireless. I had SRAM Force
and did not like it compared with Di2. I have found both Ultegra & DA groups to be rock solid in terms of shifting. The only issue I have encountered with Shimano is I have gone through a number of calipers on both groups. For some reason or another I have had brake calipers just bad and start leaking for no identifiable reason.
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There is a postal strike going on here and I will be lucky to get mine before Feb.
I had asked Peter NOT to send through UPS because on a few occasions they screwed me on overseas packaging. To my horror (for a few days) he told me that regular post was not possible and HAD to send UPS. I just checked tracking and fees this time were only $30 CDN. I am not sure why it's so low but I will take it. I have paid UPS that much brokerage for 2 tires from Europe LOL.
ETA on my frame is Jan 11.
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I had asked Peter NOT to send through UPS because on a few occasions they screwed me on overseas packaging. To my horror (for a few days) he told me that regular post was not possible and HAD to send UPS. I just checked tracking and fees this time were only $30 CDN. I am not sure why it's so low but I will take it. I have paid UPS that much brokerage for 2 tires from Europe LOL.
ETA on my frame is Jan 11.
Hi Dave, SO sorry about this, after you told me not to send through UPS, I thought we should be able to send by EMS, but when we were about to send the package out, the EMS staff here they told me not possible to send through EMS because of the strike. And I checked with another client from Canada he said it is OK with UPS shipping and FedEx. Even I charged you on EMS shipping fee which is cheaper than UPS shipping, but not to delay delivery, I sent your package out through UPS as well, since the EMS staff they don't know when EMS gets normal again. Anyway, SO sorry if this causes any inconvenience for you. BTW, UPS charges way more than the fee $30 CDN you mentioned from us.
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Hi Dave, SO sorry about this, . . . Anyway, SO sorry if this causes any inconvenience for you. BTW, UPS charges way more than the fee $30 CDN you mentioned from us.
You misunderstand me.
I am actually VERY pleased about this. I was expecting UPS to charge me $100+ for brokerage/taxes as I have had to pay in the past for similar priced items. Also I mis-read the tracking, the frame is going to be here tomorrow !
Perter, you are first rate and very patient. Thank you so much for helping me along with this purchase. I will DEF be ordering a set of wheels in a month or two.
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Bottom bracket arrived,
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqFsNCx
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You misunderstand me.
I am actually VERY pleased about this. I was expecting UPS to charge me $100+ for brokerage/taxes as I have had to pay in the past for similar priced items. Also I mis-read the tracking, the frame is going to be here tomorrow !
Perter, you are first rate and very patient. Thank you so much for helping me along with this purchase. I will DEF be ordering a set of wheels in a month or two.
Wow, that was fast, I didn't expect so fast delivery. Looking forward to your painted job on the frameset :)
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Wheels arrived, absolutely delighted with them, close to 1300g for the set and they look amazing imo, love the sound of the freehub, sounds angry
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Wheels arrived, absolutely delighted with them, close to 1300g for the set and they look amazing imo, love the sound of the freehub, sounds angry
Love me an angry freehub. No need for a bike bell on the trails. Had one person say to me "I wouldn't have known you were there if it wasn't for the noise" I told them that's the point !
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Wheeltop eds carbon groupset also arrived
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Frame came just in time for Christmas
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Btw, has anyone any instructions for putting together one of these internally routed headsets, first time doing one and unsure what goes where
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Since you're using wireless shifting you just need to route the 2 cables. Nothing special honestly. Just make sure that you route either first the handlebar or leave the handlebar for last.
Quite heavy the frame and some overspray there in the BB..
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Since you're using wireless shifting you just need to route the 2 cables. Nothing special honestly. Just make sure that you route either first the handlebar or leave the handlebar for last.
Quite heavy the frame and some overspray there in the BB..
The frame is with the seatpost, headset bearings, seat clamp and thru axles so I'm not overly disappointed with it, particularly with the custom paint, the over spray is a bigger concern though, just waiting on the correct t47 tool and I'll try to get the bb in.... slowly, wish I had a tap to clean the threads.
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The frame is with the seatpost, headset bearings, seat clamp and thru axles so I'm not overly disappointed with it, particularly with the custom paint, the over spray is a bigger concern though, just waiting on the correct t47 tool and I'll try to get the bb in.... slowly, wish I had a tap to clean the threads.
ahhh that makes the difference. Never seen anyone weighting the frame like that ahahah :) Should be light then
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ahhh that makes the difference. Never seen anyone weighting the frame like that ahahah :) Should be light then
Pure laziness on my part as I had the seatpost inserted and didn't want to remove it
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Btw, has anyone any instructions for putting together one of these internally routed headsets, first time doing one and unsure what goes where
Quite easy to figure out. Bearings top and bottom, C-ring then top cap. Sometimes if the top cap touches the frame a shim is needed or sand down the top cap but my R01 is perfect (no paint).
For the hoses I route the hoses in the frame, through the bar-connect the bar, connect the levers and then mount the levers to the bar. On the other ends I try to push extra hose into the frame just in case at a later date I need to rebuild. (sometimes a few mm of hose needs to be trimmed off). If you do this use foam around internal hoses so the do not rattle.
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Quite easy to figure out. Bearings top and bottom, C-ring then top cap. Sometimes if the top cap touches the frame a shim is needed or sand down the top cap but my R01 is perfect (no paint).
For the hoses I route the hoses in the frame, through the bar-connect the bar, connect the levers and then mount the levers to the bar. On the other ends I try to push extra hose into the frame just in case at a later date I need to rebuild. (sometimes a few mm of hose needs to be trimmed off). If you do this use foam around internal hoses so the do not rattle.
Thank you, all the additional spacers confused me but I can see it's essentially the same system as normal just with a cutout for cables. I'm lucky enough I just have to route the brake hoses but I'll put some foam around the rear brake hose which should help.
Just did a rough weigh on the built frame, seatpost, wheels, bar, headset, rotors and cassette and it's coming in at around 3100g, so hoping to get close to the 7kg with this
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I don’t want to hijack this thread but, I just finished my build. Rode about 80mi in the past 3 days. Initial impressions, very satisfied, very pleased. Overall experience dealing with Peter was excellent, I highly recommend. Full disclosure, this was my very first time purchasing a frame direct from China (not my first chinese frame). I will definitely do it again.
The CS-R01 ticks a lot of boxes for me. MTF if the OP doesn’t mind.
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@Icyseanfitz, I'am wainting for more photos of full build :)
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Thank you, all the additional spacers confused me but I can see it's essentially the same system as normal just with a cutout for cables. I'm lucky enough I just have to route the brake hoses but I'll put some foam around the rear brake hose which should help.
Just did a rough weigh on the built frame, seatpost, wheels, bar, headset, rotors and cassette and it's coming in at around 3100g, so hoping to get close to the 7kg with this
You can definitely get it down to 7kg. My full build with bar tape, pedals, bottle cages, front and rear computer mounts comes in 16lb/7.2kg.
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You can definitely get it down to 7kg. My full build with bar tape, pedals, bottle cages, front and rear computer mounts comes in 16lb/7.2kg.
Could you post pictures?
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I’ll try to get some glamour shots this weekend. Riding it everday.
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@Icyseanfitz, I'am wainting for more photos of full build :)
Just waiting on tyre's to be delivered and I'll have it together, so far I'm happy with how it's turning out
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I don’t want to hijack this thread but, I just finished my build. Rode about 80mi in the past 3 days. Initial impressions, very satisfied, very pleased. Overall experience dealing with Peter was excellent, I highly recommend. Full disclosure, this was my very first time purchasing a frame direct from China (not my first chinese frame). I will definitely do it again.
The CS-R01 ticks a lot of boxes for me. MTF if the OP doesn’t mind.
Out of interest, what have you cycled before and how does the ride feel/quality compare for you?
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That’s a great question and a very subjective one.
Bikes I have spent a good amount of miles/kms on:
- 2012 Argon 18 Gallium Pro size 54cm (rim brake)
- 2019 Argon 18 Nitrogen size 54cm (disc/Di2)
- 2021 Giant TCR SL size Small (disc/AXS)
- 2021 Elves Falath Pro size 52cm (disc/Di2)
- 2009-10 Specialized Tarmac size 52cm (rim brake/Wheeltop)
Initially, I started out riding bikes that fit, but were too big once I started training more seriously and working towards a more aggressive aero position.
The TCR is probably the nicest bike I have owned but it
always felt slow compared to the Elves, even with Winspace Hypers on it. I should have actually been on an XS, as Giant’s Small size is bigger than I like. When I got the Elves I put 4000mi on it in 4 months. Zero issues. Sizing down and figuring out my reach and stack made a huge difference with my riding.
It really comes down to two things:
- I had knee surgery spring 24’ and was also diagnosed with a herniated lumbar disc fall 24’ (both completely unrelated to cycling). Getting low on the bike for more than an hour was starting to cause me pain that I could no longer tolerate. I searched for a frame that had a shorter reach and taller stack than the Falath. The CS-R01 has solved this issue for me in terms of comfort. I haven’t been riding for the last two months due to my work schedule. My second ride on the new frame was 2hrs. Zero pain or fit issues.
- I have mostly been riding 25mm tires (at 79psi) on 19mm internal width wheels. I tried 28s a few times and really could feel a difference. For the CS-R01 I got 24mm internal width wheels. Running 28mm in the front and 30mm in the rear. Both are run at 59psi with latex tubes. Total game changer as far as ride feel goes.
With only 100mi on the CS-R01, it feels more stable at high speeds. The CS-R01 “feels” stiffer than the Falath and I have put some good sprints down on that frame. It’s been cold and windy all week, during 3 of my test rides I had some very strong headwinds and crosswinds. The bike and wheels handled all these conditions better than any of my previous bikes. All I can tell you is I feel better after riding for 2 hrs than I ever have on any of my previous bikes.
I apologize if I didn’t answer your question. For me this frame was about alleviating a fit issue, due to physiological/health issues. I still want to train hard and ride fast for the next 15-20yrs.
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That’s a great question and a very subjective one.
Bikes I have spent a good amount of miles/kms on:
- 2012 Argon 18 Gallium Pro size 54cm (rim brake)
- 2019 Argon 18 Nitrogen size 54cm (disc/Di2)
- 2021 Giant TCR SL size Small (disc/AXS)
- 2021 Elves Falath Pro size 52cm (disc/Di2)
- 2009-10 Specialized Tarmac size 52cm (rim brake/Wheeltop)
Initially, I started out riding bikes that fit, but were too big once I started training more seriously and working towards a more aggressive aero position.
The TCR is probably the nicest bike I have owned but it
always felt slow compared to the Elves, even with Winspace Hypers on it. I should have actually been on an XS, as Giant’s Small size is bigger than I like. When I got the Elves I put 4000mi on it in 4 months. Zero issues. Sizing down and figuring out my reach and stack made a huge difference with my riding.
It really comes down to two things:
- I had knee surgery spring 24’ and was also diagnosed with a herniated lumbar disc fall 24’ (both completely unrelated to cycling). Getting low on the bike for more than an hour was starting to cause me pain that I could no longer tolerate. I searched for a frame that had a shorter reach and taller stack than the Falath. The CS-R01 has solved this issue for me in terms of comfort. I haven’t been riding for the last two months due to my work schedule. My second ride on the new frame was 2hrs. Zero pain or fit issues.
- I have mostly been riding 25mm tires (at 79psi) on 19mm internal width wheels. I tried 28s a few times and really could feel a difference. For the CS-R01 I got 24mm internal width wheels. Running 28mm in the front and 30mm in the rear. Both are run at 59psi with latex tubes. Total game changer as far as ride feel goes.
With only 100mi on the CS-R01, it feels more stable at high speeds. The CS-R01 “feels” stiffer than the Falath and I have put some good sprints down on that frame. It’s been cold and windy all week, during 3 of my test rides I had some very strong headwinds and crosswinds. The bike and wheels handled all these conditions better than any of my previous bikes. All I can tell you is I feel better after riding for 2 hrs than I ever have on any of my previous bikes.
I apologize if I didn’t answer your question. For me this frame was about alleviating a fit issue, due to physiological/health issues. I still want to train hard and ride fast for the next 15-20yrs.
Wow great answer, thank you very much, interesting that initially you find it comparable to more expensive frames, with regards sizing down, it's something I've done for this actually, normally I'd ride a 56 but went with the 54 as that was the largest available and easily adjusted for with a longer stem etc.
my experience is mainly in mountain bikes so I'll find it harder to compare but Ive ridden a few different road bikes over the years, currently on a velobuild 086 rim, before that I had a CAAD 10 rim which I loved, also worked on some spendy bikes as a mechanic.
Really looking forward to testing this bike out.
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I will work on getting some pics up tomorrow. I think you’ll be pleased. Spending 12-14hrs a week on a bike really helps you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t.
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I will work on getting some pics up tomorrow. I think you’ll be pleased. Spending 12-14hrs a week on a bike really helps you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t.
Looking forward to it
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My build as it is currently being ridden.
Build details:
Frame: CS-R01
Groupset: Dura-Ace Di2 11spd (previous gen before 12spd)
Cassette: DA 11-28
Crankset: Lexon 24mm with Ryet 50/34 chainrings
Saddle: Ryet carbon budget saddle (fits better than a 300.00 Selle)
Cockpit: Ryet Vero 36cm 100mm
Wheelset: Go-Zone 24mm IW, 30mm EW, 50mm deep
Tires: Pirelli P-Zeros (28mm front wheel, matching wheel profile. 30mm rear)
Latex tubes
Pedals: Favero Assimos
2 issues I encountered in my build:
1) Insert for fork thru axle popped out during a disassembly. I used Gorilla Glue to fix this issue.
2) Rear exit port for Di2 RD cable was blocked by some
carbon excess. I took my time, pushed different routing cables thru. Tested both directions trying to fish the cable. Nothing worked. About 1.5hr of head scratching and filing very carefully with a needle file I threw in the towel. Grabbed my drillset, checked multiple times and looked at my angle of insertion. A quick, very light (I mean light) spin, blockage removed, Di2 cable through. Just a heads up.
PS: Routing fully wired Di2 is not something I will do again. Cockpit, frame, etc. All too much. It took me two days to get everything together. Wheeltop, wireless, 1hr. Ltwoo ER9, 1.5hrs, brakes bled, bike tuned and ridden to bed in brakes. Looking forward to Magene’s groupset release as a possible alternative in a year.
No pedantic weights. I don’t care that much. This was a budget build. How good of a bike could I get for the lowest price. Full disc, fully wired, pedals, both mounts and cages = 16.1lbs/7.27kgs. Consider me pleased. With a lighter cassette, cockpit, crank, chainrings, I could go lower but I’ll wait until my next build in another 2-3yrs. Total cost sans groupset carried over from another bike, 16-1800USD. Besides wheels and frame a lot of my expenses were wrapped up in consumables and finishing kit.
**Disclaimer** Yes, there is a huge ugly stack of spacers under my steerer tube. In addition to the huge head tube of the CS-R01, I still require spacers to ride without pain. I’m disgusted at myself everyday… getting old sucks.
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My build as it is currently being ridden.
Build details:
Frame: CS-R01
Groupset: Dura-Ace Di2 11spd (previous gen before 12spd)
Cassette: DA 11-28
Crankset: Lexon 24mm with Ryet 50/34 chainrings
Saddle: Ryet carbon budget saddle (fits better than a 300.00 Selle)
Cockpit: Ryet Vero 36cm 100mm
Wheelset: Go-Zone 24mm IW, 30mm EW, 50mm deep
Tires: Pirelli P-Zeros (28mm front wheel, matching wheel profile. 30mm rear)
Latex tubes
Pedals: Favero Assimos
2 issues I encountered in my build:
1) Insert for fork thru axle popped out during a disassembly. I used Gorilla Glue to fix this issue.
2) Rear exit port for Di2 RD cable was blocked by some
carbon excess. I took my time, pushed different routing cables thru. Tested both directions trying to fish the cable. Nothing worked. About 1.5hr of head scratching and filing very carefully with a needle file I threw in the towel. Grabbed my drillset, checked multiple times and looked at my angle of insertion. A quick, very light (I mean light) spin, blockage removed, Di2 cable through. Just a heads up.
PS: Routing fully wired Di2 is not something I will do again. Cockpit, frame, etc. All too much. It took me two days to get everything together. Wheeltop, wireless, 1hr. Ltwoo ER9, 1.5hrs, brakes bled, bike tuned and ridden to bed in brakes. Looking forward to Magene’s groupset release as a possible alternative in a year.
No pedantic weights. I don’t care that much. This was a budget build. How good of a bike could I get for the lowest price. Full disc, fully wired, pedals, both mounts and cages = 16.1lbs/7.27kgs. Consider me pleased. With a lighter cassette, cockpit, crank, chainrings, I could go lower but I’ll wait until my next build in another 2-3yrs. Total cost sans groupset carried over from another bike, 16-1800USD. Besides wheels and frame a lot of my expenses were wrapped up in consumables and finishing kit.
**Disclaimer** Yes, there is a huge ugly stack of spacers under my steerer tube. In addition to the huge head tube of the CS-R01, I still require spacers to ride without pain. I’m disgusted at myself everyday… getting old sucks.
Looks amazing man
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Oh, I just remembered one other small issue with the frame. Front bolt for the saddle rail clamp was too short. When I initially completed my build, I mounted my saddle and tried to level it up. The bolt was so short that the nose of the saddle was tipping down about 4-5degs. It was an easy fix by running up to the hardware store and sourcing a longer bolt.
I’m going to replace both bolts with a 30mm (rear) 40mm (front) titanium bolts. I usually run titanium hardware where ever they exposed to lots of my sweat.
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How do you find those tyres? I've the same in 30mm back in front of the way, non tubeless version seemed great weight wise.
Must say installing the wheeltop groupset was a joy really with not having gear cables, brakes where still a bit of a pain through the handlebar but doable with a little persuasion. One cable leaked most of the oil at the lever but that was my fault for not tightening enough.
Interesting regarding the saddle bolts, have you any idea what spec they are? Wouldn't mind getting some ti replacements too so if you spot anything on Ali etc I'd appreciate it if you shared the link
What's the saddle your using? I've a short ryet one but not sure on its comfort so might try a few more
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For the bolts, M6. Front needs to be at least 40mm if you need a level saddle.
Fir the price, I have been very impressed with the Ryet saddles. I have been playing with a few different sizes and shapes. Might try the Romin copy later this spring.
Regarding the tires, they are great if you’re running tubes. Ran two sets tubeless summer 23’. Had a lot of issues with sidewall weeping over the summer. Got everything sealed using a few different techniques. I feel like the sidewalls are too thin to confidently run tubeless on the Pirelli’s,
just my opinion. Otherwise, if you can get them on sale, they are a great alternative to Conti GP5000s.
Now that I have wider wheels and bigger tires, I may go back to tubeless for road. For the time being latex is working really well for me.
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I bought the non tubeless version, don't really see the appeal of tubeless for road bikes, punctures are rare enough and low pressure grip isn't really needed unlike MTBs. I'll put some lightweight TPU tubes into them
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Front bolt for the saddle rail clamp was too short. When I initially completed my build, I mounted my saddle and tried to level it up. The bolt was so short that the nose of the saddle was tipping down about 4-5degs. It was an easy fix by running up to the hardware store and sourcing a longer bolt.
Weird. Mine was fine - using it with a Superflow SLR saddle.
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Weird. Mine was fine - using it with a Superflow SLR saddle.
You've an R01? How you finding it?
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You've an R01? How you finding it?
It's being used on the trainer at the moment until I get my fit dialed in - then I can paint it. It's a little low in the front for my taste but with it raised almost as much as biceryder's and a 80mm stem/40mm bar it's ok. I don't even have a working derailleur on it at the moment, I am using Zwift play controllers for shifting and GTBikeV for an app.
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Yeah, I thought I was going crazy. Finished the bike, 65deg perfect weather, dying to get out, spin through the neighborhood, check bolts, dial in fit, etc. Could not get the forward rail bolt to catch the threads. Eventually, I got it mounted and the nose is pointing way down…
Got an M6 2” bolt from a local hardware store. Still had to grind/file the bolt to exactly 40mm to make it work. Found some ti bolts on Amazon that will fit the bill. Spring/Summer/Fall humidity and temps are so high, I sweat like crazy and even cleaning my bike after every ride sweat just corrodes everything. I have to change my bar tape every 3 months. Time to stock up
on Aliexpress…
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Tyres arrived, only thing left to do now is bartape and it's finished. Added up the individual weights (uncut steerer, unshortened chain no pedals or bottle mounts) and it's adding up to 6.992kg, my cheapo luggage scale is given me around that too but it's not the most consistent/accurate. Overall very happy with how bike looks and weighs. I'll add pictures once bartape is done.
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Bike is now fully built, very happy with how it turned out, must weigh it properly but as is without pedals id say around 7.1. Just waiting for the irish weather to give me a day and i will get it out for its first spin.
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Bike is now fully built, very happy with how it turned out, must weigh it properly but as is without pedals id say around 7.1. Just waiting for the irish weather to give me a day and i will get it out for its first spin.
nice. how high is the saddle? bb at the end of the saddle? thx
frame size?
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Bike is now fully built, very happy with how it turned out, must weigh it properly but as is without pedals id say around 7.1. Just waiting for the irish weather to give me a day and i will get it out for its first spin.
Holy sky high seat post Batman ! U must be a tall boi ! What frame size it that ?
These days I can only handle 5-8 cm of bar drop, it sucks to get old LOL
Bike is looking great by the way! I am still getting my fit worked out on mine. It looks like I'll be using a 90mm stem with my large frame and about 40mm of stem spacers. I am 6' or ~183cm tall
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I'm 6 foot on the size 54, I haven't dialed the fit in yet, I'll probably drop it a few cm and might push the saddle back a bit more, haven't had a chance to ride it yet so I've no idea of the fit adjustments needed just yet.
Next thing is to try and find a more comfortable saddle
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I'm 6 foot on the size 54, I haven't dialed the fit in yet, I'll probably drop it a few cm and might push the saddle back a bit more, haven't had a chance to ride it yet so I've no idea of the fit adjustments needed just yet.
Next thing is to try and find a more comfortable saddle
Mine is a "54" as well which is not quite accurate as the only measurement that is near 54cm is the seat tube. Just about every other bike frame uses the top tube for sizing (actual or effective). I should have gotten a size smaller I think as I do not have the flexibility I once had.
I think you said before you bought a Ryet saddle. I tried a couple different versions and none were very good for me. Right now I am back on my old Prologo scratch that came on my 2014 SuperSix LOL. Thy Ryet is too wide especially on the nose - I need a traditional saddle. I just recieved a knock off https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006282996753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.3bab1802jMHy2r that is only 140mm wide and traditional shape but not mounted yet.
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Mine is a "54" as well which is not quite accurate as the only measurement that is near 54cm is the seat tube. Just about every other bike frame uses the top tube for sizing (actual or effective). I should have gotten a size smaller I think as I do not have the flexibility I once had.
I think you said before you bought a Ryet saddle. I tried a couple different versions and none were very good for me. Right now I am back on my old Prologo scratch that came on my 2014 SuperSix LOL. Thy Ryet is too wide especially on the nose - I need a traditional saddle. I just recieved a knock off https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006282996753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.3bab1802jMHy2r that is only 140mm wide and traditional shape but not mounted yet.
Funnily enough that's the exact saddle I've used and have currently on the bike, I find the shape fits well but there's very little cushion on it which can impact comfort.
Yeah I had a short nose 135mm wide ryet, just wasn't working for me, sit ones getting uncomfortable on it, if I could find a ryet in a similar shape to my previous saddle I'd try it.
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.
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First ride today, 66km, first impressions are rocketship, any bit of power I put in was was translated into speed, when I was up to 30kmh + bike held speed fantastically. Also found it to be quite comfortable although I might need to adjust fit a little.
Only issue I had was when heavy sprinting the front rotor was hitting the pads slightly, not a big issue and I might be able to adjust the caliper to correct it. Overall, love the bike
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First ride today, 66km,
. . . Overall, love the bike
The color looks great in the sunlight ! I am about to order a set of wheels from him. They have the "wavy" profile rims with a 24 internal width and 24 spoke front/rear on their site. They will be the last parts I need except for tires.
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have to say to date my experience with peter and the product i received has been nothing but superb, ill buy more from him for sure
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I am curious how much you guys paid for this frame?
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Think with the paint it was circa 700usd at the time
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hi
i really like your bike
question a bit off topic
how do you get on with the Wheeltop group?
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Not off topic at all, have done 200km on it so far, really like it, need to fine tune a few gears but it shifts nicely and is comfortable
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hi
I'm finalizing with "Peter" the final details for the purchase of this frame
I have some trivial questions to ask you
- I'm curious to know your updates and opinions on this frame and its quality of construction.
- how does it behave on "uphill" roads?
- problems with assembly?
- I would like to buy stem and handlebar for integrated cables but two separate pieces; do you have any suggestions for finding them and that they are suitable for this frame?
thanks
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thanks
when you have the chance to hear from your friend, could you ask
his body height
saddle height in the photo from bottom bracket
thanks
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hi
I'm finalizing with "Peter" the final details for the purchase of this frame
I have some trivial questions to ask you
- I'm curious to know your updates and opinions on this frame and its quality of construction.
- how does it behave on "uphill" roads?
- problems with assembly?
- I would like to buy stem and handlebar for integrated cables but two separate pieces; do you have any suggestions for finding them and that they are suitable for this frame?
thanks
Hello,
I have about 800km done on the frame, honestly I love it, bike feels solid over Irish roads (which are terrible) and I couldn't be happier with the quality.. bike accelerates really well, is comfortable (at least up to 100km spins), and I'm getting prs on everything from flats to mountains. Saying all of that my fitness has also improved but I think the bike deserves some credit. I've done 68kph downhill on this frame and it has felt 100% solid.
I had no issues with build, handlebar routing was difficult but that seems to be the norm, speaking of which I'm really happy with the quality of the bar that came with the frame, really stiff and confidence inspiring.
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I’ve finally accumulated enough miles on mine. Easy to build, already documented in this thread. Great frame for the price. It’s my only road bike now. Went from 4 down to this one. Just finished installing 105 Di2 and zeno couplers so I can pack it in a Post Carry case for airline travel.
Ride wise. It rides like any other carbon frame I’ve had. It’s stiff, fast, climbs well. For me this purchase was all about the geometry. I needed something with a short reach and higher stack to alleviate pressure on a herniated disc. Now I can stay in the drops for an hour or two. Great frame, would definitely purchase from Peter again. Actually looking forward to his next road frame.
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I’ve finally accumulated enough miles on mine. Easy to build, already documented in this thread. Great frame for the price. It’s my only road bike now. Went from 4 down to this one. Just finished installing 105 Di2 and zeno couplers so I can pack it in a Post Carry case for airline travel.
Ride wise. It rides like any other carbon frame I’ve had. It’s stiff, fast, climbs well. For me this purchase was all about the geometry. I needed something with a short reach and higher stack to alleviate pressure on a herniated disc. Now I can stay in the drops for an hour or two. Great frame, would definitely purchase from Peter again. Actually looking forward to his next road frame.
must sayim finding myself the most comfortable in the drops at this stage than ive ever been on this bike.
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Yeah, I did a lot of riding on long and low bikes for the last 4 years. I’m plenty flexible, but a series of (non-biking related) injuries caused me to seek out a frame with geo like the CS-R01. Definitely sitting in the drops much longer with no discomfort or soreness, post ride.
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hi
thanks
now i have to choose which group to buy...
i'm tempted by ltwoo... or stay on shimano
i'm following the discussion on ltwoo carefully hoping to make the right decision.
thanks
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I like the wheel top I have on it but I had one experience (my own fault for accidentally engaging trim mode without knowing how to exit) that has made me worried about being stranded with it. Outside of that I love it
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What did you guys pay for this frame?
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What did you guys pay for this frame?
Did you message PeterXu ? He responded to me VERY quickly.
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I can voucher for Peter. I communicated with him via email. Extremely responsive and does his best to answer questions. I plan on purchasing another frame from him by end of year.
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Did you message PeterXu ? He responded to me VERY quickly.
i believe it was somewhere in the 700-800usd mark with custom paint/shipping etc, peter is great to deal with, i will definitely look to buy another frame if/when they release something new
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Hi, do 32mm tires fit well, or is there room for wider tires?
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My tires measure 34 mm and have a couple mm on each side still. They are 32mm gp5000!AS TR ON 24 mm internal rims.
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bought the majority of the remainder of the parts needed in the aliexpress 11/11 sale, Only thing really left to get is tyres and bartape ;D
Groupset: WHEELTOP EDS-TX https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006971691534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006971691534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Cassette: ZTTO 12 speed ultralight 12-34 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007610723152.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007610723152.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Crankset: RIRO Carbon Fiber 170 50/34 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006481196419.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006481196419.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.31.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Chain: YBN SLA1210TIB Black https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005504952160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005504952160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Pedals: TIM 12 LOGO 165g https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003642232349.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003642232349.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Saddle: RYET 3D 135 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249187930.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006249187930.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Tubes: Ridenow Ultralight 19g https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005742091890.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.21bd1802fPmDzT (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005742091890.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.21bd1802fPmDzT)
Hi.
How do these pedals work compared to Shimano Ultegra pedals? Are they quicker to get off the pedals compared to previous Shimano pedals? I notice they're considerably lighter, and I need to replace mine. Thanks.
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What's your FTP, age and weight? I feel like playing the Nero show game looking at your bike :D
lol I have NO idea what you are talking about. Anyway 285, 55, 110
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Thanks! 110... kg or pounds?
KGs. I am a truck driver and built like such lol
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Hi.
How do these pedals work compared to Shimano Ultegra pedals? Are they quicker to get off the pedals compared to previous Shimano pedals? I notice they're considerably lighter, and I need to replace mine. Thanks.
They are light, that's about all I can say about them, I find them very difficult to clip in fully, just waiting to get a set of Favero Assioma UNO and I'll replace them
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Tangentially relevant:
CS-R06 road frameset M size in UD black gloss & D50CU-33 T1100 rims 21/21H UD paintless. A friend just finished his build.
He had no specific problems during the build (was his first build).
I didnt buy the cockpit from Peter because i wanted 36cm. The interface is universal, so anything that's standard will work.
7.4kg with pedals, bottle cages & everything, and the pedals are the most basic i could find, and the bottle cages are aluminum, so it's probably a 7.2kg bike without cutting corners (extra long compression plug for safety, 30C tyres, wide rims, 52/36, 11-34, 160 front and rear rotors, ER9 with old generation calipers that are heavy AF. So, easily a 7kg bike with a few mods.
He doesnt have much to say about ride quality yet, he just finished building it.
@Serge_K, waiting for feedback about ride impressions on that frame, please ;D
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@Serge_K, waiting for feedback about ride impressions on that frame, please ;D
All 3 friends are now riding their bikes. All 3 are beginners as road bike users, big picture. 1 is a pro athlete, but not in bikes. 1 is an aero space engineer. 1 is an oil & gas engineer. they all managed to build the frame fine. They all seem happy.
I got them kick ass bikes and the result seems to be a non event, really, maybe it's a good thing :) 1 is super happy that the bike is full custom. the other 2 are just riding the bike tinkering with their position (the engineers, go figure).
so... yeah, unsure how helpful all that can be :)
They're all on conti gp5000 30C, 33 wide, 50 deep wheels from peter, and the R06 from Peter. Then the components and specs differ between bikes.
Also, having put 11,000km on my own chinese frame, ultimately, it's just a bike. If you buy something that fits you, that fits the riding you do, unless you're a pretty serious statistical anomaly, if you get the frame from a reputable seller (that's a big if), then you should be fine. From the dozen builds i've done, that's probably the main takeaway. I have a world champion friend on a trek emonda, it's just the wrong bike to ride on the flat with us, as we're all on aero bikes. That's not kool aid, that's physics. And a 400$ frame will get you there just as well as a 2000 one, afaik, if you choose wisely.
My current conclusion about all this is as follows: a branded bike off the shelf will cost you more and fit you less well than a custom OEM bike, IF you know what to order. My friend on the trek is on the wrong bike. One on a van rysel is on the wrong bars (and shitty gearing, and hookless zipp rims). one on an aeroad is on the wrong gearing. And changing anything on branded bikes instantly costs a fortune, when it really shouldnt.
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Hi
Is there anyone who can tell the difference between R01 and R06 there is not a big difference in the geometry, so why should you choose one over the other
BR
Michael
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Is there anyone who can tell the difference between R01 and R06 there is not a big difference in the geometry, so why should you choose one over the other
The R01 headtube and fork are different. Designed fitting with each other. The CS-R06 fork is common and might fit with other standard rounded headtube frames. Go for the R01!
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The R01 headtube and fork are different. Designed fitting with each other. The CS-R06 fork is common and might fit with other standard rounded headtube frames. Go for the R01!
Nice to know, thank you for your feedback.
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All 3 friends are now riding their bikes. All 3 are beginners as road bike users, big picture. 1 is a pro athlete, but not in bikes. 1 is an aero space engineer. 1 is an oil & gas engineer. they all managed to build the frame fine. They all seem happy.
I got them kick ass bikes and the result seems to be a non event, really, maybe it's a good thing :) 1 is super happy that the bike is full custom. the other 2 are just riding the bike tinkering with their position (the engineers, go figure).
so... yeah, unsure how helpful all that can be :)
They're all on conti gp5000 30C, 33 wide, 50 deep wheels from peter, and the R06 from Peter. Then the components and specs differ between bikes.
Also, having put 11,000km on my own chinese frame, ultimately, it's just a bike. If you buy something that fits you, that fits the riding you do, unless you're a pretty serious statistical anomaly, if you get the frame from a reputable seller (that's a big if), then you should be fine. From the dozen builds i've done, that's probably the main takeaway. I have a world champion friend on a trek emonda, it's just the wrong bike to ride on the flat with us, as we're all on aero bikes. That's not kool aid, that's physics. And a 400$ frame will get you there just as well as a 2000 one, afaik, if you choose wisely.
My current conclusion about all this is as follows: a branded bike off the shelf will cost you more and fit you less well than a custom OEM bike, IF you know what to order. My friend on the trek is on the wrong bike. One on a van rysel is on the wrong bars (and shitty gearing, and hookless zipp rims). one on an aeroad is on the wrong gearing. And changing anything on branded bikes instantly costs a fortune, when it really shouldnt.
I didn't expect that long lecture on Chinese frames ;D
As your friends are beginners, I understand that they have no comparison to other road frames in terms of handling, stiffness, comfort etc.
I know for and against Chinese frames, currently riding on my first build - BXT 145, but I got issues with creaking BB and creak near setpost area, that is why I am looking for something new. I am interested in Cannondale Supersix looking frame, I was even supposed to vote for TanTan x69, but after fork failure in X68. I resigned and moved to CS-R06 about which Your review is first one on forum. If you could deliver a few photos of ready builds, I would be pleased to.
P.S.
It is hard for me to believe and agree with you that guy on emonda is dropped back due to frame aerodynamic ;D
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Those photos are voided unless you also provide both your Strava and FTP ;D
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What is the bottom bracket on the CS-R01? I do not see it on there site.
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What is the bottom bracket on the CS-R01? I do not see it on there site.
T47
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Another question for those that did get a custom paint job from CS. Did they put a coat of clear coat over the paint job? I might not be calling it the right thing.
What did you guys all do about handlebars! The CS one piece integrated or other?
Thanks. Getting ready to order this fame.
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T47
hi
who did you order the bottom bracket from?
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hi
i bought cs handlebars
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hi
i bought cs handlebars
Integrated or aero bars?
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hi
who did you order the bottom bracket from?
My local bike shop. Genuine SRAM DUB T47. Being said I had one of the bearings give out after 700 kms which is hardly better than a KACTUS one I bought for my other bike. My solution was to replace the bearings only - Going on 1000 km now.
FWIW the KACTUS one was near $50 and the SRAM one was $75 CDN
The bearings for the KACTUS BB were $10 each locally and the bearings for the SRAM BB (MR3040H7-2RS) from Ali were near $20 for 4 - local shop would have to order them AND they were more $$ than Ali.
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My local bike shop. Genuine SRAM DUB T47. Being said I had one of the bearings give out after 700 kms which is hardly better than a KACTUS one I bought for my other bike. My solution was to replace the bearings only - Going on 1000 km now.
FWIW the KACTUS one was near $50 and the SRAM one was $75 CDN
The bearings for the KACTUS BB were $10 each locally and the bearings for the SRAM BB (MR3040H7-2RS) from Ali were near $20 for 4 - local shop would have to order them AND they were more $$ than Ali.
Very quickly this bearing blew out, 700km is not much.
I'm intrigued by this topic because I also have a T47 86mm in my frame (bxt) and installed bb Token. I have the same thing, the first bearings lasted 2000km then started to squeak, the second Token bb 1000km and the same symptom. The strange thing is that they don't have a rolling problem, they just squeak. Now I ordered bb Kactus, which has a flange on the bearing - that is, there is no metal-to-metal contact between the bearing and the crank axle. I wonder if this will solve the problem and what the reason is:
- friction between the metal-to-metal contact
- misaligned bb t47
- poor quality bearings
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Very quickly this bearing blew out, 700km is not much. . .
- friction between the metal-to-metal contact
- misaligned bb t47
- poor quality bearings
Both of the BBs developed a creak/click at the same point in their revolution. Upon removal and cleaning I was able to wash out 'dirt ?' that was found between the balls and race. On the KACTUS I assumed it was ceramic particles and even with no load and clean a definite rough spot could be felt in the rotation even when spinning unloaded. On the SRAM bearings the particles may have actually been dirt ingress but again when rotating the bearing unloaded a rough spot could be felt. To note, this was only on the non drive side of the SRAM BB. When installing the new bearings I SOMTHERED the seals with grease to help prevent anything getting past them. Both of the BBs I bought use plastic sleeves to protect the crank.
Fingers crossed, they both have been perfect - near 1000km on the SRAM and 500km on the KACTUS BB in my gravel bike. I assume my BB is aligned as the crank doesnt bind at all.
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I'm using this:
SENICX T47 68mm Ceramic Bottom Bracket Suitable for Shimano/SRAM GXP Road Bike Crank 24mm Shaft Gravel Bicycle Central Movement
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPAkXeP
1100km on it, perfect still, I don't ride much in the rain though
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I'm using this:
SENICX T47 68mm Ceramic Bottom Bracket Suitable for Shimano/SRAM GXP Road Bike Crank 24mm Shaft Gravel Bicycle Central Movement
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPAkXeP
1100km on it, perfect still, I don't ride much in the rain though
To be honest I think the problem is with cheap bearings in the DUB format. They are SO SMALL that they plainly do not last. Between this and me being extremely fussy about noises makes for a bad combination. If I had to choose over again I would NOT use cranks with DUB axle sizing - I have (Shimano/Campagnolo) bikes with literally 10,000 kms and more on the same BB.
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To be honest I think the problem is with cheap bearings in the DUB format. They are SO SMALL that they plainly do not last. Between this and me being extremely fussy about noises makes for a bad combination. If I had to choose over again I would NOT use cranks with DUB axle sizing - I have (Shimano/Campagnolo) bikes with literally 10,000 kms and more on the same BB.
I'm lost. Are you saying that T47 + 29mm/DUB axle = small bearings?
Because i know that PF BB86 / BSA + 29mm axle = bad, but i thought pretty much the reason why T47 exists is to accommodate 29mm axles with adequate sized bearings?
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I'm lost. Are you saying that T47 + 29mm/DUB axle = small bearings?
Because i know that PF BB86 / BSA + 29mm axle = bad, but i thought pretty much the reason why T47 exists is to accommodate 29mm axles with adequate sized bearings?
Yes they are tiny. Have you never disassembled one ? TBH I am surprised that roller or cone bearings are not used as to give a larger contact area but that would be more expensive.
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Yes they are tiny. Have you never disassembled one ? TBH I am surprised that roller or cone bearings are not used as to give a larger contact area but that would be more expensive.
They used to be a thing in the 1980s.
https://www.lucio-bici.com/shop/p/rare-nos-vintage-1980s-galli-super-criterium-titanium-italian-bottom-bracket (https://www.lucio-bici.com/shop/p/rare-nos-vintage-1980s-galli-super-criterium-titanium-italian-bottom-bracket)
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Yes they are tiny. Have you never disassembled one ?
Well then that's retarded! Why does DUB exist? Why does T47 exist? If neither allows for properly sized bearings?
All the bikes i built were using 24mm axles.
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Well then that's retarded! Why does DUB exist? Why does T47 exist? If neither allows for properly sized bearings?
All the bikes i built were using 24mm axles.
I have several bikes and the two DUB/T47 bikes are the only ones I have had issues with. I did have a creakingdale SuperSix with a BB30 but that was the Bb style not the bearings. The solution was a praxis thread together BB. I no longer have that bike tho.
I do have to say though since I put quality bearings in both (and sealed they with extra grease ) I no longer have any issues.
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I wrote the wrong bike, not the wrong frame. He's on bad tyres (french sponsor), butyl tyres, large bars, wheels that aren't deep enough, and yes, a slow frame, that's not made for the flat, which means he loves his position out of the saddle climbing, but he's not comfortable in tuck, and so he catches more wind than he should.
And so, ride for 90min at 40kmh on the flat, add all of these "marginal" things together all at once, and it hurts. Idk how slow that frame tested on the tour magazine, but it can't have tested well.
That said, maybe i'm lying. Maybe i dont exist. Maybe i'm a russian bot. Maybe i'm a trad wife. Maybe sometimes i wish i were a trad wife.
Im also considering CS-R06 instead of CS-R01.
Could You post some drivetrain side photo of finished build?
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Im also considering CS-R06 instead of CS-R01.
Could You post some drivetrain side photo of finished build?
Why one over the other ? just curious .
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Why one over the other ? just curious .
Not OP, but I am also leaning more towards the R06 than the R01 for two main reasons: racier geometry and I think it looks betters.
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Not OP, but I am also leaning more towards the R06 than the R01 for two main reasons: racier geometry and I think it looks betters.
+1
I agree 100% with that.
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Not OP, but I am also leaning more towards the R06 than the R01 for two main reasons: racier geometry and I think it looks betters.
The stack and reach seem to be same from what I see. What am I missing?
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Well then that's retarded! Why does DUB exist? Why does T47 exist? If neither allows for properly sized bearings?
All the bikes i built were using 24mm axles.
One should look at how it is constructed and look for good aftermarket solutions. From what I know Sram use same tiny bearings regardless of BB shell to cut the costs, whether is T47->Dub or BB86->Dub. I got the issue when I bought shitty BB86->30mm axle BB which abruptly fall apart and destroyed the axle of my cranks. Then I bought Hope BB which is of another construction, has slightly larger bearings and lasted far longer. Yet again, it failed miserably and abruptly during the wet race and destroyed another crankset again ;D
Moral of the story: big balls in BB = good, small balls in BB = bad.
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The stack and reach seem to be same from what I see. What am I missing?
It seems to depend on the size a bit: for example, in size M (515), the R01 has a stack/reach of 548/373.6, while the R06 has 548/379, so the reach is about 5.4mm longer on the R06.
The R06 also has a ~5mm longer effective top tube.
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Moral of the story: big balls in BB
I think Bon Scott sang about this LOL
The R06 also has a ~5mm longer effective top tube.
5mm is NOT going to make any difference.
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Adding my own build to this thread for anyone interested:
Frame size is XS with wheels Elitewheels ENT and groupset Ltwoo erx v3.0. Just built the bike up about a week ago. This was my first time building a full build from scratch so bare that in mind. Build went well with two minor hiccups:
- The headset cover spacer was rubbing the frame when the preload was set so i had to add a couple of microspacers to the assembly as well as sanded down the top cover.
- The RD cable exit in the frame was too small so I had to sand it down just a little bit to get the cable through.
I still have a problem with the smallest gear (large cog with small front chainring) as it rubs the front derailleur cage with the limit set to its lowest. I have a couple of spacers on the way and will try fitting that and see how that goes. I had the seatpost slip on my first outing so i refitted it with extra grip paste and a little bit more torque and have had no problems since then.
Putting these little problems aside the bike rides like a dream. I currently have ~250km on it and have no complaints whatsoever. For context I am by no means a fast rider nor am i putting out huge amounts of watts and with that said, the bike feels fast and responsive. It might just be that for the first time I have a frame size that actually fits me, which is also partially why I went this route with my build. It is a little harsher on my cracked local roads than my previous gravel bike with road tires which is to be expected but it is by no means uncomfortable. I would say the opposite, I feel extremely comfortable on this bike. I ordered Peter's handlebar in size 380x90 and I am very happy I did as it is beautiful and comfortable for me.
Peter gets a lot of praise from the members of this forum and I will be joining these reviews, as he was quick to respond, gave me most of the information I asked for and provided very good feedback on my wishes, but mainly his product looks to be of really good quality, cannot say much more with only 250kms ridden. New wheelset sadly didn't fit into my budget for this build but in the future, Peter and XMCarbonspeed will most definitely be at the top of my list for ordering new build components.
I will try to snap some nicer photos of the build in the future.
(http://IMG_5388.jpeg)
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Didn't realize. I guess I'll add this to the list of bad SRAM engineering decisions, along with hookless, 10T cog, small chainrings, FD that doesnt work, and more.
I consider myself fortunate that the nightmares others have had with front derailleurs. I have Force and a Rival AXS set up and they have been perfect. They are a bit of a pain to initially set up but all has been good. Also I kinda like the 10t cog as I can have a smaller big ring to help with the hills. I don't even get into the 10t until I hit 25 mph + on flats. My days of turning big gears are LONG behind me - my knees cant take it LOL
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First ride today, 66km, first impressions are rocketship, any bit of power I put in was was translated into speed, when I was up to 30kmh + bike held speed fantastically. Also found it to be quite comfortable although I might need to adjust fit a little.
Only issue I had was when heavy sprinting the front rotor was hitting the pads slightly, not a big issue and I might be able to adjust the caliper to correct it. Overall, love the bike
How its the handling descending with this frame? Its stable or not?. Can you give more feedback about your riding experience in general
Regards
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I finished my build in Jan and then made heavy modifications to the cockpit in Feb. It’s since become my daily training/travel bike. On descents it seems to handle well for me. I haven’t taken it down any long, steep mountain switchbacks yet, but I did do a few short, twisty descents this weekend and I felt stable.
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Adding my own build to this thread for anyone interested:
Frame size is XS with wheels Elitewheels ENT and groupset Ltwoo erx v3.0. Just built the bike up about a week ago. This was my first time building a full build from scratch so bare that in mind. Build went well with two minor hiccups:
- The headset cover spacer was rubbing the frame when the preload was set so i had to add a couple of microspacers to the assembly as well as sanded down the top cover.
- The RD cable exit in the frame was too small so I had to sand it down just a little bit to get the cable through.
I still have a problem with the smallest gear (large cog with small front chainring) as it rubs the front derailleur cage with the limit set to its lowest. I have a couple of spacers on the way and will try fitting that and see how that goes. I had the seatpost slip on my first outing so i refitted it with extra grip paste and a little bit more torque and have had no problems since then.
Putting these little problems aside the bike rides like a dream. I currently have ~250km on it and have no complaints whatsoever. For context I am by no means a fast rider nor am i putting out huge amounts of watts and with that said, the bike feels fast and responsive. It might just be that for the first time I have a frame size that actually fits me, which is also partially why I went this route with my build. It is a little harsher on my cracked local roads than my previous gravel bike with road tires which is to be expected but it is by no means uncomfortable. I would say the opposite, I feel extremely comfortable on this bike. I ordered Peter's handlebar in size 380x90 and I am very happy I did as it is beautiful and comfortable for me.
Peter gets a lot of praise from the members of this forum and I will be joining these reviews, as he was quick to respond, gave me most of the information I asked for and provided very good feedback on my wishes, but mainly his product looks to be of really good quality, cannot say much more with only 250kms ridden. New wheelset sadly didn't fit into my budget for this build but in the future, Peter and XMCarbonspeed will most definitely be at the top of my list for ordering new build components.
I will try to snap some nicer photos of the build in the future.
(http://IMG_5388.jpeg)
Beautiful! What color is that exactly?
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hi
forgive me if I already asked.
I see that there are "various" forms of T47 bottom bracket.
I need for CS-R01 for shimano crankset with 24 diameter axle
can you help me?
d
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hi
forgive me if I already asked.
I see that there are "various" forms of T47 bottom bracket.
I need for CS-R01 for shimano crankset with 24 diameter axle
can you help me?
d
T47, 68 mm, threaded bottom bracket I believe!
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T47, 68 mm, threaded bottom bracket I believe!
Yes it is standard road spacing on this frame.
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I just read through this full thread and this is about 80% the frame I'm going to order. I dont want an SL8 clone bc the geometry is just too aggressive for me, I think. The R01 and R06 are nearly the same geo as SSE and thats what I really wanted. I think the R06 in size 56(L) having a slightly longer TT fits the bill bc I am 188cm with a 91.4cm inseam, so my torso is a bit shorter. I will be pairing it with the new SRAM Force E1 group with 160mm cranks (i have hip impingement issues). Ive been borrowing a buddies 160mm 105 cranks for my other bike and have loved them for my hips. I can also get very aero and NOT rock my hips during higher power.
I've sent @PeterXu a message regarding paint and pricing but maybe you all can help me with a few questions...
Does the bar turning radius have a stop point before frame contact?
Does Peter offer marble effect paint jobs?
Is there a crash replacement warranty?
What parts did you immediately replace for an upgrade from the stock parts?
Thanks for answering and reading!
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I just read through this full thread and this is about 80% the frame I'm going to order. I dont want an SL8 clone bc the geometry is just too aggressive for me, I think. The R01 and R06 are nearly the same geo as SSE and thats what I really wanted. I think the R06 in size 56(L) having a slightly longer TT fits the bill bc I am 188cm with a 91.4cm inseam, so my torso is a bit shorter. I will be pairing it with the new SRAM Force E1 group with 160mm cranks (i have hip impingement issues). Ive been borrowing a buddies 160mm 105 cranks for my other bike and have loved them for my hips. I can also get very aero and NOT rock my hips during higher power.
I've sent @PeterXu a message regarding paint and pricing but maybe you all can help me with a few questions...
Does the bar turning radius have a stop point before frame contact?
Does Peter offer marble effect paint jobs?
Is there a crash replacement warranty?
What parts did you immediately replace for an upgrade from the stock parts?
Thanks for answering and reading!
I have the R01 and there is no turning stop point. Where the bar meets the frame I put a double layer of bar tape.
I asked about warranty as his gravel bike has a VERY good one and he told me that it was only on workmanship for this frame as it was a "light weight" frame - being said, I ordered my frame with no paint and it looked very nice. I also ran a boroscope through the inside and everything looked tidy.
Not sure what you mean about replacing parts, this is a frame and fork - not sure what you would upgrade.
As for paint I painted mine in my shop. Turned out good enough but may re-do next winter. For instance, I didn't like the large text on the down tube.
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Wow, your bike is awesome! Love the paint scheme!
The parts to replace would be seatpost, headset bearings, or derailleur mounts as a start...I thought it came with handlebars too?
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Wow, your bike is awesome! Love the paint scheme!
The parts to replace would be seatpost, headset bearings, or derailleur mounts as a start...I thought it came with handlebars too?
Thank you I am mostly happy with it.
Yes you are correct, I just assume seat post, bearings and mounts came with all frame sets - I see no need to "upgrade" these parts.. The seat post is D-shape and is fine for me as are the bearings and derailleur mounts. No handlebar did not come with and I bought a 38mm ULLICYC one piece. I have another on my gravel bike they I bet the crap out of and they are excellent.
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I built up this CS-R06 with 50/33 carbon rims from Xiamen Carbonspeed as well. Very very happy with the end result. I’ve done around 800 kms the last couple of weeks and it rides like a dream. Peter was a pleasure to deal with as well. LTWOO ER9 group set (works very well and super easy to index with the app), 11-28 11SPD 105 cassette, GP5000 30mm tires, 160 rotors, Magene PES crankset with 50/34 (might go for a 52 next time).
Only trouble I had during the build was to fit the LTWOO RD cable trough the chain stay. But that’s more of an LTWOO problem than XCS. Files it down for 10 minutes and I popped trough. Remember to ask for the carbon rail seat mount. I forgot to but sourced one trough Ritchey. Rose bikes use the same saddle mount system.
First bike build and it feels like flying around 40 km/h. Very happy. :)
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I am positive this would be the perfect frame for me but Peter doesn't have any R01 or R06 in a size 56 in stock....I haven't heard from him yet if they will make more, but they are currently at Eurobike so I am not expecting an answer soon. Gonna go to my LBS and play around with their fitting jig to test geometry of other bikes also.
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I am positive this would be the perfect frame for me but Peter doesn't have any R01 or R06 in a size 56 in stock....I haven't heard from him yet if they will make more, but they are currently at Eurobike so I am not expecting an answer soon. Gonna go to my LBS and play around with their fitting jig to test geometry of other bikes also.
They sell the CS-R01 frame in XXS, XS, S, M and L. FWIW I have a L and the effective top tube is 55.87 CM while on the website it says L- 540 but they measure the seat tube.
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They sell the CS-R01 frame in XXS, XS, S, M and L. FWIW I have a L and the effective top tube is 55.87 CM while on the website it says L- 540 but they measure the seat tube.
yea Ive been chatting with Paul over Whatsapp and he said they dont have any R01 or R06 is size L right now...unsure if they are gonna make more. Hes at Eurobike so I'm not expecting an answer for another week really.
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Any new updates for anyone with this frame?
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Yeah. Been riding my R01 all over the US and UK since I built it. Zero issues. Built mine up with 50mm GoZone wheels and 105 Di2. Running 28mm in the front and 30mm in the rear. Consider me pleased. I also set mine up with Zeno couplers so I can fit it in a PostCarry case for bikecationing.
I probably won’t build another road bike for at least 2 years or until I get bored with this one.
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Hi,
I'm getting ready to start assembling the CS-R01.
It's my first assembly of a bike with integrated cables and disc brakes.
Could you help me put the headset parts in the correct order by giving me the numbers?
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Try saying please, it's free.
Hi,
you're right
SORRY
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Hi.
I need a favor, please.
I'm getting ready to start assembling the CS-R01.
This is my first build of a bike with integrated cables and disc brakes.
Could you help me put the headset components in the correct order by giving me the numbers?
Thank you for your time.
David
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Hi,
I need another favor.
Can you explain to me what these pieces are
Thanks.
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What kind of cockpit are you using, one piece or separate bar and stem? What brand? Did you get order bars through XMC?
You were provided two different top caps and two different transition spacers. One combination allows for full internal routing, the other is for semi-integrated routing.
Your second post: Those are rubber grommets for Di2 cables exiting the frame. Not sure what the third piece is.
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What kind of cockpit are you using, one piece or separate bar and stem? What brand? Did you get order bars through XMC?
You were provided two different top caps and two different transition spacers. One combination allows for full internal routing, the other is for semi-integrated routing.
Your second post: Those are rubber grommets for Di2 cables exiting the frame. Not sure what the third piece is.
Hi,
thanks for your reply.
I bought the one-piece handlebar from xcarbon.
So what should I do?
Thanks.
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Hi,
I need another favor.
Can you explain to me what these pieces are
Thanks.
These are frame inserts for Di2 or mechanical cable routing
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Hi,
thanks for your reply.
I bought the one-piece handlebar from xcarbon.
So what should I do?
Thanks.
2) goes on top of the headset bearing.
5) should sit on top with a 1-2 mm gap
3) use as many spacers as required
6/5) I don’t have an XM one piece bar but my guess is 6. do a test fit and see how they mate together before running your cables.
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2) goes on top of the headset bearing.
5) should sit on top with a 1-2 mm gap
3) use as many spacers as required
6/5) I don’t have an XM one piece bar but my guess is 6. do a test fit and see how they mate together before running your cables.
Thank you
really very kind and knowledgeable
Thank you
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Thank you I am mostly happy with it.
Yes you are correct, I just assume seat post, bearings and mounts came with all frame sets - I see no need to "upgrade" these parts.. The seat post is D-shape and is fine for me as are the bearings and derailleur mounts. No handlebar did not come with and I bought a 38mm ULLICYC one piece. I have another on my gravel bike they I bet the crap out of and they are excellent.
Which of the ULLICYC bars did you get? They have several from what I can see. Thanks for any help.
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yea Ive been chatting with Paul over Whatsapp and he said they dont have any R01 or R06 is size L right now...unsure if they are gonna make more. Hes at Eurobike so I'm not expecting an answer for another week really.
Good news – I had a chat with Peter today and the R01 frame is available again in size L. I’m still recovering from my crash, but the frame remains high on my shortlist.
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Good news – I had a chat with Peter today and the R01 frame is available again in size L. I’m still recovering from my crash, but the frame remains high on my shortlist.
Interesting in that I have also talked with Peter today about a large in the R01 frame. Should be ordering early next week.
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Thank you I am mostly happy with it.
Yes you are correct, I just assume seat post, bearings and mounts came with all frame sets - I see no need to "upgrade" these parts.. The seat post is D-shape and is fine for me as are the bearings and derailleur mounts. No handlebar did not come with and I bought a 38mm ULLICYC one piece. I have another on my gravel bike they I bet the crap out of and they are excellent.
Wondering how you are liking the wavey wheels from XMCS? I have ordered the R01 frame and deciding on wheels now. Just checking on your experience with them so far? Thanks for any information.
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Good morning,
I need a favor.
I'm starting to assemble my CS-R01.
I purchased the "integrated" handlebar with the frame.
I've determined the exact height at which to mount the handlebars.
My question concerns cutting the "fork."
Should I cut it at the level of the handlebar stem or a few millimeters lower (3 mm)?
Thanks
David
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Should I cut it at the level of the handlebar stem or a few millimeters lower (3 mm)?
How thick is the lip of the expander plug?
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Wondering how you are liking the wavey wheels from XMCS?
If I had to complain I don't like how quiet the hubs are when freewheeling and I wish they were deeper. They seem quite strong with 24 spokes front and back and still a little over 1400g for the pair. I have had them off road a few times and no complaints even with the smooth tires installed. The 24mm internal makes the 23mm gp5000 AS tires 34mm fit perfectly in the frame.
All this being said I think I am going to order the newer frame or the GR01 he has as well as a deeper set of wheels mostly for the better geometry (IMO)
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How thick is the lip of the expander plug?
3,26 mm
Tanks
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If I had to complain I don't like how quiet the hubs are when freewheeling and I wish they were deeper. They seem quite strong with 24 spokes front and back and still a little over 1400g for the pair. I have had them off road a few times and no complaints even with the smooth tires installed. The 24mm internal makes the 23mm gp5000 AS tires 34mm fit perfectly in the frame.
All this being said I think I am going to order the newer frame or the GR01 he has as well as a deeper set of wheels mostly for the better geometry (IMO)
Appreciate the input and opinion. So you are running 700x23 tires on the 24mm internal wide wheels? That is interesting if I understand you correctly.
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3,26 mm
Tanks
I would cut it 5mm short to ensure proper headset compression. But probably ask Peter to be sure, if the frame didn't come with any specifications?
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Appreciate the input and opinion. So you are running 700x23 tires on the 24mm internal wide wheels? That is interesting if I understand you correctly.
It would be a typo for "32mm", the GP5000 AS TR don't come in sizes that small.
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Appreciate the input and opinion. So you are running 700x23 tires on the 24mm internal wide wheels? That is interesting if I understand you correctly.
Whoops, not 23 but 32mm - just my fat thumbs typing LOL
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Good morning,
I need a favor.
I'm starting to assemble my CS-R01.
I purchased the "integrated" handlebar with the frame.
I've determined the exact height at which to mount the handlebars.
My question concerns cutting the "fork."
Should I cut it at the level of the handlebar stem or a few millimeters lower (3 mm)?
Thanks
David
Have you gotten your bike built? Wondering about a pic and an update on your opinion of the frame/bike.
Thanks
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I've around 3.5km done on mine since building, brilliant frame, has brought my road cycling on leaps and bounds
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I've around 3.5km done on mine since building, brilliant frame, has brought my road cycling on leaps and bounds
Thanks for the update. Great to hear.
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Have you gotten your bike built? Wondering about a pic and an update on your opinion of the frame/bike.
Thanks
Hi,
unfortunately, I haven't started yet.
I'll definitely keep you updated.
Thanks.
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Hi,
I need a favor.
Today I started assembling the CS-R01 frame I purchased in June.
I have this problem and hope you can help me.
Along with the frame, I also purchased the handlebars and headset from Peter.
The ring that goes above the bearing and holds the hydraulic brake hoses doesn't seem to fit into the bearing if I route the cables through the designated slots.
It creates a greater thickness, or diameter, that prevents installation.
I'm forced to pass them inside the ring, but this seems to affect the fork's movement.
Any solutions?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Bye
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hi
:)
Perhaps with some photos my request for help will be clearer ;D
Today I started assembling the CS-R01 frame I purchased in June.
I have this problem and hope you can help me.
In addition to the frame, I also purchased the handlebars and headset from Peter.
The ring that passes over the bearing and holds the hydraulic brake lines (photo 1) doesn't seem to fit into the bearing if I run the cables through the appropriate slots (photo 2).
It creates a greater thickness, or diameter, that prevents installation.
I'm forced to run them inside the ring, but this seems to affect the fork's movement (photo 3).
The fork rotates fine to the right, but remains forced and "restrained" to the left.
I've tried a lot, but the final result is as described.
Do you have any solutions?
Thanks for any help you can give.
Bye.
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Cable should be routed as per your second picture I belive
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hi
:)
Perhaps with some photos my request for help will be clearer ;D
Today I started assembling the CS-R01 frame I purchased in June.
I have this problem and hope you can help me.
In addition to the frame, I also purchased the handlebars and headset from Peter.
The ring that passes over the bearing and holds the hydraulic brake lines (photo 1) doesn't seem to fit into the bearing if I run the cables through the appropriate slots (photo 2).
It creates a greater thickness, or diameter, that prevents installation.
I'm forced to run them inside the ring, but this seems to affect the fork's movement (photo 3).
The fork rotates fine to the right, but remains forced and "restrained" to the left.
I've tried a lot, but the final result is as described.
Do you have any solutions?
Thanks for any help you can give.
Bye.
Sent you a message and here is pic of the two sets that I got.
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Hi,
thanks,
I got the non-stacked one.
Where did you get the stacked one and what model is it?
Thanks.
Hi
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Hi,
thanks,
I got the non-stacked one.
Where did you get the stacked one and what model is it?
Thanks.
Hi
I did get the new bars so not sure if that makes any difference.
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Hi,
thanks,
I got the non-stacked one.
Where did you get the stacked one and what model is it?
Thanks.
Hi
See pic below and green is set that is needed for the new XMCS handlebars.
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Pic of my frame that came in recently. Ordered some decals for it and got them put on. I have not weighed any part of it yet.
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Finally able to post some updates. Still working on getting groupset and will be done or very close. Extremely happy with everything so far. Not a weight weenie but I think it is coming out pretty good. I will post pics of parts that I have so far. Wheels are 50/60 with 24.3 internal and 31.8 external at lip and 34 mid wheel. Inside of frame is extremely clean and slick.
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Anyone used the new XMCS handlebars with the R01 or R06? We can’t get the compression ring to match up with the FSA headset that works with the new handlebar. Any help is appreciated?
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Finally built and a first ride. Love it. First carbon frame and wheels. Also first one electric shifting.
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Just a small update, 5000km done, added a geoid pm500 but other than that and a new chain and cassette all is the same as original spec. Fantastic bike, I'm 36 and am fitter now than I have been in the near 20 years I've cycled and I'm giving a lot of the credit to how much I love riding this bike, hasn't put a foot wrong once (other than one wheel top related issue). Might look into buying the Xmcs aero race frame for next year solely because of how good this is, price increase is noticeable and might lead me somewhere else but I can't fault the quality one bit.
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Just a small update, 5000km done, added a geoid pm500 but other than that and a new chain and cassette all is the same as original spec. Fantastic bike, I'm 36 and am fitter now than I have been in the near 20 years I've cycled and I'm giving a lot of the credit to how much I love riding this bike, hasn't put a foot wrong once (other than one wheel top related issue). Might look into buying the Xmcs aero race frame for next year solely because of how good this is, price increase is noticeable and might lead me somewhere else but I can't fault the quality one bit.
I am using Magene P515 power meter and all works great.
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added a geoid pm500
How's the power meter going? Might get one for myself?
Accurate? Reliable? Cheap? Can't possibly have all three together
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How's the power meter going? Might get one for myself?
Accurate? Reliable? Cheap? Can't possibly have all three together
ive nothing to compare it against but its definitely giving me around what i expect for my weight and average speed, so far ive charged it once, calibrated it a few times (reverse spin cranks and with head unit), No issues
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Is Peter still selling this frame ?
Might be the best option for « low cost » frame against
VB 268
BXT 155 EVO
Any Tantan
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Not sure if he is or not. Mine in the Large is just about exact geometry as Cannondale Supersix and O love the the bike!!
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Is Peter still selling this frame ?
Might be the best option for « low cost » frame against
VB 268
BXT 155 EVO
Any Tantan
Yes:
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1655
I bought 4 VB, 3 Peter's, BXT is an Ali brand, and Tantan is shady AF.
My sequence is Peter, then VB, then the others.
Please buy from Peter, tell him it's entirely because of me, and then he sends me one billion dollars.
#influencer from the future.