Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: 00Garza on January 08, 2025, 04:32:56 PM
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Used the recent sale coupons to begin piecing together a new gravel build. This one will be few firsts for me:
-First painted frame. BXT 135 sand dollar color ($472 after coupons and expedited shipping charge)
-First fully internal routing
-First integrated carbon handlebar (lexon thin line $128)
-First electronic groupset (eGR $413)
Still iffy about using the integrated carbon handlebar due to fit and lack of adjustability. I do have a uno stem and handlebar just in case. This will be a slow build as I'm still waiting on the frame to be shipped and trying to pick out a wheelset.
I'll move my magene powermeter crank over from my other bike and either relegate that bike to the trainer or sell it to recoup some funds.
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Sounds interesting, where did you buy the frame? I can only find quite expensiv offers at the moment.
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Sounds interesting, where did you buy the frame? I can only find quite expensiv offers at the moment.
I purchased from BXT official store. It was discounted during the winter sale, plus the $50 winter sale coupon, and $23 worth of ali coins.
I'm learning to time things with pattern of the sales.
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Looking forward to your build! I almost went with this frame during the 11.11 sale, but opted for the Ceccotti RF25 frameset since it was cheaper, weighed slightly less and I wanted to try a different style geometry. I also went with the EGR and I almost built it with an integrated stem, but the extra weight and complications of an integrated setup seemed ridiculous to me. Also I'm not gaining anything going aero on a bike that's being used on mountain dirt trails.
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Looking forward to your build! I almost went with this frame during the 11.11 sale, but opted for the Ceccotti RF25 frameset since it was cheaper, weighed slightly less and I wanted to try a different style geometry. I also went with the EGR and I almost built it with an integrated stem, but the extra weight and complications of an integrated setup seemed ridiculous to me. Also I'm not gaining anything going aero on a bike that's being used on mountain dirt trails.
I was looking at that one as well. Wasn't sure if my Magene powermeter would fit so went with bxt since its BSA.
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I was looking at that one as well. Wasn't sure if my Magene powermeter would fit so went with bxt since its BSA.
I'm going to try mounting my Magene P505 stand alone PM on the RF25. I'll report back if it fits, though I'm not sure if the P505 PES will fit the T47 internal BB.
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I'm going to try mounting my Magene P505 stand alone PM on the RF25. I'll report back if it fits, though I'm not sure if the P505 PES will fit the T47 internal BB.
Is the P505 not compatible with T47 bottom brackets? I was hoping to use one for an upcoming build.
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Is the P505 not compatible with T47 bottom brackets? I was hoping to use one for an upcoming build.
Magene has officially stated that it doesn’t work with internal T47 which is the wider one that is common on newer gravel frames. Check out the power meter thread. Some have made it work certain frames. I didn’t want to take the chance.
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Funny story and kind of a shoutout to 80 Designer Store. I'm in dialogue with several vendors working out compatibility for the next build.
I meant to message the BXT store a question about the frame but accidentally sent it to the 80 Designer Store that sold me the eGR group instead. They replied back a little confused, but provided the correct info. Talk about great customer service lol!
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Is the P505 not compatible with T47 bottom brackets? I was hoping to use one for an upcoming build.
Have you already tried it out? I’m very interested if this works on the RF25/G056 as I also have on and I’m thinking of upgrading it
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In hindsight, I'm glad I used the expedited shipping. Or else I would've risked being hit with these new import fees.
I don't have all the parts to finish the build and will either have to wait until (hopefully) things get worked out. Or I might just end up selling the frameset and groupset.
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Just pulled the trigger on small parts and finishing kit with Choice items. Here's to hoping I get it all before de minimus exemption is repealed again.
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Just listed the build kit for sale in the classifieds. Send me a message if you’re interested.
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You build it yet?
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You build it yet?
Was trying to sell the frame and group, but no one was biting. Guess I’ll just have to keep it lol!
Still might be another month or so before it’s built.
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Was finally ready to get this thing built up, but I'm in a dilemma.
New sram axs dropped which means wild discounts on 12s axs groups. I can get a full AXS force group for a pretty good deal and try to sell off the Ltwoo build to offset some costs.
I don't like being locked into the 12s sram world, but reliability, serviceability, and warranty is an obvious benefit.
I like Ltwoo and where they're headed as a company. Part of me wants to keep this a true chiner build with eGR.
What do you guys think?
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Was finally ready to get this thing built up, but I'm in a dilemma.
New sram axs dropped which means wild discounts on 12s axs groups. I can get a full AXS force group for a pretty good deal and try to sell off the Ltwoo build to offset some costs.
I don't like being locked into the 12s sram world, but reliability, serviceability, and warranty is an obvious benefit.
I like Ltwoo and where they're headed as a company. Part of me wants to keep this a true chiner build with eGR.
What do you guys think?
If you sell your eGR groupset, I might be interested in buying it! ;)
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If you sell your eGR groupset, I might be interested in buying it! ;)
Message me a price point you’re thinking and let’s make a deal!
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What would you be paying and for what exactly? In Europe, Sram is expensive AF, so i'm curious.
I'd also say, if it's not broken, dont fix it, and so, use the ltwoo group you have, but i dont have all the details.
Full force axs group with quarq powermeter. $900
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Finally got it built up. Got home from the shop and realized two things. Front brake rotor is rubbing a bit and got a gap under cone spacer.
Any thoughts on what’s causing that gap? Is this a simple solution I can figure out at home or just take back to the shop?
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Top headset beating to think so is the C- Ring
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Finally got it built up. Got home from the shop and realized two things. Front brake rotor is rubbing a bit and got a gap under cone spacer.
Any thoughts on what’s causing that gap? Is this a simple solution I can figure out at home or just take back to the shop?
Looks like the shop didn't properly compress the c-ring. It's a simple fix. I'd loosen the top cap and stem bolts and push it in more. I'd be more worried they didn't pay attention on other details during the build. Sometimes these Chinese frames/components require a bit of finessing that some bike mechanics can't wrap their brain around. I ride with bike shop guys. As far as they're concerned, my Chinese components are from a different dimension!
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I used the c-ring that came with the ryet handlebars but should've checked if it was the exact same dimensionsas the one that came with the frame. That may be a factor.
Could it also be the fork not cut to proper length?
The headset bearings make audible crunch sounds with turning of the bars. My go to mechanic who usually builds up my chinese projects as retired for a season. Might try a different shop.
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I am also suprised to see the top bearing sticking up from the frame. For sure I would try a different Cring
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I used the c-ring that came with the ryet handlebars but should've checked if it was the exact same dimensions. That may be a factor.
Could it also be the fork not cut to proper length?
The headset bearings make audible crunch sounds with turning of the bars. My go to mechanic who usually builds up my chinese projects as retired for a season. Might try a different shop.
Did you still have the stock C ring for the frame? I'd try that. I'm surprised the shop let you take the bike without checking. That gap is huge!
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Did you still have the stock C ring for the frame? I'd try that. I'm surprised the shop let you take the bike without checking. That gap is huge!
I do. I’ll be taking back to the shop today.
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LBS is trying to convince me that the gap under the cone spacer is supposed to be there because its missing a dust cover. I insisted the cone spacer is supposed to sit flush with minimal gap.
I also pointed out the bearing is not seated correctly as seen in the pic. Is it possible I was sent the wrong bearing for the headset?
And this is why I was so hesitant to go fully internal. Now it has to all be taken apart just to figure it out.
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Cring can be remove without taking everything out. Then you can file it down to get the tickness you want to close the gap, i had to do it for my gravel too. It takes an hour or two but it’s doable.
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And this is why I was so hesitant to go fully internal. Now it has to all be taken apart just to figure it out.
The C-ring can easily be removed. I'd go with Ludo's recommendation and file it down slightly.
On a side note, there's nothing wrong with internally routed cables, but I went with the separate bar & stem option on my internal frames and uses a headset cover with cable holes. The cover come with rubber seal and cable grommets for water sealing. I can easily size down my stem height without hassle. Something to consider in the future.
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Cring can be remove without taking everything out. Then you can file it down to get the tickness you want to close the gap, i had to do it for my gravel too. It takes an hour or two but it’s doable.
What part of the ring did you file down? Contemplating trying this or trying with another bar.
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The top, on as wide as a file as you can find, and rotate the ring around so you don’t create a ridge
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The top, on as wide as a file as you can find, and rotate the ring around so you don’t create a ridge
Ok. Makes sense. Think I’ll give it a go.
Also…did your top bearing sit perfectly flush or stick up slightly like it does in the pic I posted?
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Mine is flushed that’s why i commented on yours initially. You problem could be solved by going from a 7mm to a 5.5mm thick for exemple, but it means messing with all the internal routed cables…
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Mine is flushed that’s why i commented on yours initially. You problem could be solved by going from a 7mm to a 5.5mm thick for exemple, but it means messing with all the internal routed cables…
Does that exist? I only see 8mm, 7mm, or 6.5mm for this size bearing.
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I haven’t checked for your particularité size but i have seen some 5.5mm for the 52mm OD before. What is the thick’ess of yours?
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I haven’t checked for your particularité size but i have seen some 5.5mm for the 52mm OD before. What is the thick’ess of yours?
40x52x7mm
The only 5.5 I saw was a flat bearing with no bevel. Not for headset applications.
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Got a slightly thinner bearing on the way, and might try this bar that comes with 4 c rings of various depths. After my first foray into fully internal cables, I wish more bars had that.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809233775056.html
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The saga continues. Is this how the top bearing is supposed to fit?
I’m guessing the stock bxt handlebar/spacers fit this better? Can anyone using the stock bars confirm?
I’m not really confident in how much I have to grind down on the metal Lexon split ring to make it fit. Then to make sure the edges won’t dig into the steerer.
This is frustrating. I should’ve just bought the stock bars. Hindsight is 20/20.
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Can you share me a way to adapt my Ltwoo ER9 brakecaliper adapter 34 mm ?
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Can you share me a way to adapt my Ltwoo ER9 brakecaliper adapter 34 mm ?
You have to use the adapters that come with the calipers.
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I’ve given up on going fully internal. The stock bars come in odd measurements that I don’t see working fit wise, other integrated systems don’t seem to work with their bearing stack height.
I’ve ordered the Spcycle headset cover and hopefully that fits.
For those using bxt’s partial internal headset cover, how do you keep water and grime from getting in the headset? That hole looks ginormous.
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I’ve given up on going fully internal. The stock bars come in odd measurements that I don’t see working fit wise, other integrated systems don’t seem to work with their bearing stack height.
I’ve ordered the Spcycle headset cover and hopefully that fits.
For those using bxt’s partial internal headset cover, how do you keep water and grime from getting in the headset? That hole looks ginormous.
SPCycle has the best implementation of the headset cover with a rubber gasket for the cables. My R088 road frame came with that cover. My G056/RF25 gravel frame has a similar cover to the BXT with just a wide opening. I just put a lot of grease on the bearings to repel moisture. Thankfully even when it rains, the stem and my bar bag strap does a good job shielding it from water. I'd have to purposely pour water into that opening to get it wet. When I hose my gravel bike I'm mindful not to spray water by the headset cover.
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After cracking my quite new frame - I finally got a replacement and rebuild it. I build it as a commuter/allround bike. On rebuilding I also upgraded some parts.
In total I really like the bike, rides great and looks nice, nothing out of the ordinary but a solid choice.
I tried to mount an old Riro crankset but the spindle was to short, so when I tightened it, it seized - had to send it back. The Z-Race 4 Piston breaks are good but the rear brake needs some improvement (probably have to be rebleeded) as the bite is not where the front brake is. And I'm not convinced with the pads, they are squeeling when wet.
I also had some problems with a gap on the headset cover - which I could improve by sanding down the compression ring see picture after sanding it down).
Specs:
- Alexrims CXD4
- Tufon Thundero 40mm HD Tires
- GRX 400 Lever and GRX 812 RD
- Senicx PR3 Crankset - will be replaced by a Big Rock Carbon Titanium one
- Ztto BB 68mm BSA
- to come: Xcady PM
- Zrace 4 Piston Calipers with cooma Silver Pads
- IIIPRO 160mm Rotors
- Uno Stem with toosek handlebar
- Shimano EH500
- Spedao 11-42T ultralight casette
- Waxed YBN Chain
- Stainless steel headset bearings from kugellagershop
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Has anyone tried which tirewidth fits in the frame?
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I tried to mount an old Riro crankset but the spindle was to short, so when I tightened it, it seized - had to send it back. The Z-Race 4 Piston breaks are good but the rear brake needs some improvement (probably have to be rebleeded) as the bite is not where the front brake is. And I'm not convinced with the pads, they are squeeling when wet.
You should have tried another bottom bracket like a Shimano BBR60. Shimano BBs play nicer with the Riro crankset. Another trick is to remove the preload screw on the non drive side crank arm. On one of my road bikes, I removed the preload screw and it's held up just fine that way. I just covered that exposed threads with small flat rubber band that came from one of my bike tire packages.
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I did try an ultegra BB but nevertheless it did seize, even with no preload ring.
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Finally got this thing out for a ride!
I had ordered the sand dollar color, but changed my mind last minute to this. I like it a lot.
Tried a few things to minimize the gap under headset spacer. Filed down the C-ring, got a lower stack headset bearing. Still about 1.3mm gap, but I can live with that.
EGR works perfectly, and the Tagoola wheels are nice. Lexon handlebars are a bit flexy, but I’m not a sprinter so I don’t care too much.
Also…forgot my pump so I had to run lower pressures than I usually do. Super comfy, but I was much more aware and cautious of pot holes and curbs.
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The saga continues. Is this how the top bearing is supposed to fit?
I’m guessing the stock bxt handlebar/spacers fit this better? Can anyone using the stock bars confirm?
I built this up for my GF with separate bar and stem and the provided headset cover, bearing and c-ring. No such problem. Fits perfectly with minimal gap.
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I built this up for my GF with separate bar and stem and the provided headset cover, bearing and c-ring. No such problem. Fits perfectly with minimal gap.
Using a 3rd party integrated handlebar means using a different C-ring. Apparently they're not all the same size nor are all cone spacers. The combination I chose just so happened to cause a significant gap. If I had known that, I would've gone with the stock bars despite their odd sizes.
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Do you guys know if the BXT make any promotions/discount on the 11.11 or black friday? Or it's not worth waiting and buy now?
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Do you guys know if the BXT make any promotions/discount on the 11.11 or black friday? Or it's not worth waiting and buy now?
Frames and wheelsets get significantly cheaper during the sales. I would wait.
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Has anyone tried and had success using a Magene 515 power meter with this frame as a 1x? Would it hit the chainstays?
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Has anyone tried and had success using a Magene 515 power meter with this frame as a 1x? Would it hit the chainstays?
My Magene 515 just arrived, so I’ll find out in a few days after it’s installed. Don’t see any reason if won’t fit though.