Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Queen of Skulls on November 05, 2025, 03:42:15 AM
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I been getting up to 25+ mile rides and my saddle is starting to get uncomfortable on the longer rides. I have a norco saddle I picked up from a thrift store in tahoe for like 3 bucks. It was practically new and made in the last few years. Its ok for like shorter 20 miles rides but after that its getting a lil uncomfortable...
So trying to find better saddles for longer rides. So I can work up to the centuries.
Maybe better chammis pants too.
My width is like 130-140... I think. I did the foil towel test.
the saddle is 145 to 150
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I been getting up to 25+ mile rides and my saddle is starting to get uncomfortable on the longer rides. I have a norco saddle I picked up from a thrift store in tahoe for like 3 bucks. It was practically new and made in the last few years. Its ok for like shorter 20 miles rides but after that its getting a lil uncomfortable...
So trying to find better saddles for longer rides. So I can work up to the centuries.
Maybe better chammis pants too.
I rarely find the saddle type to be the problem, but more the size/width of it compared to the behind sitting on it..
So my best advice: find your correct width and buy a saddle after that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL2QG5p-6Lg
Better chammis is always a good option too.
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I´m happy with an ERGON saddle. I use Ergon Sattel SR COMP MEN. Make sure to calculate your saddle width before purchase.
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I rarely find the saddle type to be the problem, but more the size/width of it compared to the behind sitting on it..
So my best advice: find your correct width and buy a saddle after that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL2QG5p-6Lg
Better chammis is always a good option too.
Well I have re-adjusted the the saddle. It was all the way back as I am all torso. (I need as much saddle to bars as I can get.) to make sure I am fully sitting on the back just in case and to make sure it was level... But I have to wait a few more days to get back on the bike.I had a back spasm last week and it takes a week or two before the pain goes away.. as I said I am all spine with short legs.
any suggestions on saddles or chammis?
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Moving the saddle back and forth to get more reach isn’t the right thing to do.
You find your saddle position and it stays there. You change your stem length to suit your reach.
The saddle could be ok, just in the wrong place.
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Well I have re-adjusted the the saddle. It was all the way back as I am all torso. (I need as much saddle to bars as I can get.) to make sure I am fully sitting on the back just in case and to make sure it was level... But I have to wait a few more days to get back on the bike.I had a back spasm last week and it takes a week or two before the pain goes away.. as I said I am all spine with short legs.
any suggestions on saddles or chammis?
Then I did not make myself clear enough :)
What I'm talking about is not the placement of the saddle, but the physical width of it.
So without knowing what width you need, people can't recommend a saddle cause they come in different sizes.
I tried to copy in a link to a youtube video of how to meassure it, but I don't think it worked. Try to google: "how to choose correct saddle width".
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I am also in the camp that its rarely the saddle that causes issues. As long as its NOT heavy padded and over 145mm with a cutout channel its fine.
Bring the saddle to the center of the rails.
Lower the seat post 3-4cm.
Start raising is up again by a cm or so until you get issues again.
Lowering the saddle 99% of the time fixes saddle issues.
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Moving the saddle back and forth to get more reach isn’t the right thing to do.
You find your saddle position and it stays there. You change your stem length to suit your reach.
The saddle could be ok, just in the wrong place.
I got a velobuild 218 aka the fauxma frame. In the largest frame I can fit leg wise with the seat slammed. So moving the seat back will just make it a touch more relaxed and I have about 15mm to play with the height... I really do have about 8-9inchs( 225 mm) of sit height on most people. with long arms too I am 6 ft height and my arms are 6'4 wing span. I make a great swimmer. So I say this they dont make a stem long enough for me. I found a 220mm stem for my other bike. They just dont make bike frames for people like me. without not being totally custom. any ways moving the seat back is just going to relax the position geometry. moving it 25mm isnt going to do much. I moved it to the middle just to make sure I am sitting on it appropriately.
I have a width of like 130 to 140 I need to try a few times.
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Lower the seat post 3-4cm.
Start raising is up again by a cm or so until you get issues again.
Lowering the saddle 99% of the time fixes saddle issues.
I can drop post by 15mm. its slammed. I needed the biggest frame for the reach. I have a super long torso with short legs. like for example I sit 9 inches taller than everyone else most of the time. I measured off the length pretty exact off my other bike. my hips arent rocking. I have checked.
the width is like 130 to 140mm
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I got a velobuild 218 aka the fauxma frame. In the largest frame I can fit leg wise with the seat slammed. So moving the seat back will just make it a touch more relaxed and I have about 15mm to play with the height... I really do have about 8-9inchs( 225 mm) of sit height on most people. with long arms too I am 6 ft height and my arms are 6'4 wing span. I make a great swimmer. So I say this they dont make a stem long enough for me. I found a 220mm stem for my other bike. They just dont make bike frames for people like me. without not being totally custom. any ways moving the seat back is just going to relax the position geometry. moving it 25mm isnt going to do much. I moved it to the middle just to make sure I am sitting on it appropriately.
Have you seen a bike fitter? You might benefit from a second opinion.
I remember your fit being very low-saddle and high-bars, which doesn't make much sense if you have longer-than-average arms for your height. Your saddle pain is likely, in part, related to trying to force-fit a bike that doesn't suit your body type and potential flexibility limitations.
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I got a velobuild 218 aka the fauxma frame. In the largest frame I can fit leg wise with the seat slammed. So moving the seat back will just make it a touch more relaxed and I have about 15mm to play with the height... I really do have about 8-9inchs( 225 mm) of sit height on most people. with long arms too I am 6 ft height and my arms are 6'4 wing span. I make a great swimmer. So I say this they dont make a stem long enough for me. I found a 220mm stem for my other bike. They just dont make bike frames for people like me. without not being totally custom. any ways moving the seat back is just going to relax the position geometry. moving it 25mm isnt going to do much. I moved it to the middle just to make sure I am sitting on it appropriately.
If the bike doesn’t fit, it doesn’t fit.
Swapping the saddle won’t really do anything for you in terms of long term comfort.
Your proportions sound similar to a friend of mine. We found long reach bars and long stem to get something workable.
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Have you seen a bike fitter? You might benefit from a second opinion.
I remember your fit being very low-saddle and high-bars, which doesn't make much sense if you have longer-than-average arms for your height. Your saddle pain is likely, in part, related to trying to force-fit a bike that doesn't suit your body type and potential flexibility limitations.
There are no frames that fit my body type!!!! My reach is closer to someone who is like 6'8 and my bb to seat is 67cm and pedal to 82cm with cleats. WHen I get in an "aero" position, My shoulders are over the handle bars and I got the longest stem velobuild offers. if I didnt get the biggest bike. and slam My seat... I would be over the front wheel... You know when people joke about people needing dental work if a handle bars fail I need to get a sternum xray.
custom bikes frames start at like 4 times the total cost of this bike. and at that price I could get a reactor aero from no22 well almost. I could design my own and get it printed in china for that price for sure. Which I am fully capable of.
Trust me I know more about the frustration of not fitting. I am a tall odd shaped woman. Nothing fits me... Except pants. Being I got the inseam of a 5'2 lady. tops are belly tops. dresses are shirts. I am excited when I find a full bib or jerseys that fit.
now My sit bone measurements are 130-140mm... and the saddle is 145 wide... I think its more the issue. Being thats where I am feeling pressure.
though...I need to slam the handlebars at some point. The higher bars were more of a getting in better shape and more comfortable with the bike before slamming them. Like training wheels. and they are more to do with handpressure. than sit pressure.
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If the bike doesn’t fit, it doesn’t fit.
Swapping the saddle won’t really do anything for you in terms of long term comfort.
Your proportions sound similar to a friend of mine. We found long reach bars and long stem to get something workable.
from the 5 different ways I have tried to measure my sit bones I am 130 to 140mm and the saddle is 145mm at the widest... I think a wider saddle might be in order too...
I would love to have a long reach aero bars. On my other bike I am using a 220mm stem I found on ebay. But thats just a beater bike. I will be keeping that stem forever and ever though... lol
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now My sit bone measurements are 130-140mm... and the saddle is 145 wide... I think its more the issue. Being thats where I am feeling pressure. though...I need to slam the handlebars at some point.
This is the bit that gives me pause. I remember you talking about a 50mm or 70mm spacer for your bike. Unless you have a shoulder injury or impingement, once you get to the correct saddle position, you should be able to work with a range of combinations of spacers and stem lengths without altering your back angle. In other words, getting rid of spacers should enable you to move back into a long but not crazy long front-end arrangement.
If this hasn't happened yet, I would strongly suggest you resolve this before you spend more money on parts. The reason is that your fit affects pelvic rotation, which in turn determines how wide a saddle you need relative to your sitbone measurements, which are usually not taken on the bike. The second is that getting the right fit will affect your saddle position and relative weight distribution between contact points.
Regarding frames, yeah, with your proportions, it could end up being less than ideal. However, there are relatively affordable custom geometries from Waltly (Ti) or Marino (Steel), but there are frames like the "FRMAE" frame that is on Aliexpress (also as the Airwolf YFR039) that is about 30mm longer reach for stack than your current frame if you can find the right size. It also takes a round seat post and has a relatively small seat post height for the reach.
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from the 5 different ways I have tried to measure my sit bones I am 130 to 140mm and the saddle is 145mm at the widest... I think a wider saddle might be in order too...
I would love to have a long reach aero bars. On my other bike I am using a 220mm stem I found on ebay. But thats just a beater bike. I will be keeping that stem forever and ever though... lol
You might benefit from ditching the integrated bars and go for something separate so you can add length.
You sound like you’re trying to fit a lot of body in a small space, and that’ll make you sit strangely, or on the wrong part of the saddle.
That’s why is doubting any saddle would offer much, if any, improvement. A few mm of saddle width really won’t make that much difference.
I build custom bike for people and most are on an endless quest for a more comfortable saddle. Most of the time, the current saddle is fine but the position is wrong which is causing the discomfort.
A saddle that can be found quite cheaply on eBay is a fizik antares VS. It’s quite old now, but it’s a good all rounder that works for quite a lot of different users.
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This is the bit that gives me pause. I remember you talking about a 50mm or 70mm spacer for your bike. Unless you have a shoulder injury or impingement, once you get to the correct saddle position, you should be able to work with a range of combinations of spacers and stem lengths without altering your back angle. In other words, getting rid of spacers should enable you to move back into a long but not crazy long front-end arrangement.
If this hasn't happened yet, I would strongly suggest you resolve this before you spend more money on parts. The reason is that your fit affects pelvic rotation, which in turn determines how wide a saddle you need relative to your sitbone measurements, which are usually not taken on the bike. The second is that getting the right fit will affect your saddle position and relative weight distribution between contact points.
Regarding frames, yeah, with your proportions, it could end up being less than ideal. However, there are relatively affordable custom geometries from Waltly (Ti) or Marino (Steel), but there are frames like the "FRMAE" frame that is on Aliexpress (also as the Airwolf YFR039) that is about 30mm longer reach for stack than your current frame if you can find the right size. It also takes a round seat post and has a relatively small seat post height for the reach.
Well like I said I had a spasm in my lower back that happens every year or so. another joy of a long spine... I just increased my rides to 5 times a week even if is a like 7-10 miles. a month before it happened... So I dont know if that was a factor. So I been wanting to build up that strength/flexibility before moving down. And proper stem would need to be custom. So I might as well get one printed. to be aero. and fit that sexy bike. Also looking at the differece between the 218 and that airwolf adds like 2 cm and subtracts 1cm. where I need 12cm difference that still comes down to custom stem.
Its like splitting hairs.lol I need to get a proper bike fit at some point. However I am very in in tune with my body feel. like I can tell a difference of 5mm in seat height and if the seat is tilted wrong. I feel like if I was sitting wrong. I would know.
If I where to get another frame I would the airwolf yfg001 and do a gravel build... there is some nice gravel/road rides in LA. and that frame would give me a little more breathing room. and keep my stable with a similar look...
Also I wanted to get a proper saddle on my bike like I said the saddle is a off a norco bike maybe slightly too small.. It can go on my bike shaped object which needs a better saddle too.. I literally paid 3bucks.
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If this hasn't happened yet, I would strongly suggest you resolve this before you spend more money on parts. The reason is that your fit affects pelvic rotation, which in turn determines how wide a saddle you need relative to your sitbone measurements, which are usually not taken on the bike. The second is that getting the right fit will affect your saddle position and relative weight distribution between contact points.
So I was able to do a short ride 8 mile ride, my back is still a bit wack. I just dont feel like my current saddle has enough pressure relief nor is it the ride shape. it seems too flat. and I did ride in a number of hip rotations/ positions. people talk about comfy saddles. And it doesnt seem like it at all
I rode a townie bike all week at burning man. without issue. its a more padded saddle with no chammis. and a more up right postion. of couse.
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Go see a bike fitter. Spend the few $100 and get your measurements right. Spend once and be happy and keep on spending over and over again without addressing your issues.
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A saddle that can be found quite cheaply on eBay is a fizik antares VS. It’s quite old now, but it’s a good all rounder that works for quite a lot of different users.
I dont know if I want to get a used saddle especially an older model that might be worn out. I was looking at the ryet saddles. Specifically at the ryet aircode as it is recommended by a few bike fitters. I am feeling pressure on my sit bones and on the soft tissues. So something with more of a cut out might help. Idk untill I try them.
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I dont know if I want to get a used saddle especially an older model that might be worn out. I was looking at the ryet saddles. Specifically at the ryet aircode as it is recommended by a few bike fitters. I am feeling pressure on my sit bones and on the soft tissues. So something with more of a cut out might help. Idk untill I try them.
A few reasons why I don’t think that’s a good idea.
1, the Ryet is a very firm saddle. It’s a copy of a the Shimano Pro which is far nicer.
2, it kicks up at the back and if you’re struggling for room, you’ll push back which will increase you saddle hight. Probably the opposite of what you need.
Only a bike fit will help you as you’re a niche case.
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As Potooooooo said, go see a bike fitter like yesterday. Extra 5cm in each hand should not be causing you such issues with your fit and I'm sorry to say that you very likely have a wrong sized frame. Getting a correct frame should not be that much of an issue, since most road bikes are too long and low for people of average build and flexibility. It hurts to lose a bit of money, but cycling while in pain is just not worth it if you want to enjoy the hobby.
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As Potooooooo said, go see a bike fitter like yesterday. Extra 5cm in each hand should not be causing you such issues with your fit and I'm sorry to say that you very likely have a wrong sized frame. Getting a correct frame should not be that much of an issue, since most road bikes are too long and low for people of average build and flexibility. It hurts to lose a bit of money, but cycling while in pain is just not worth it if you want to enjoy the hobby.
Problem is there is no correct frame on the market. They dont make one , not even close. I need a ton more reach. my bike isnt long enough. when I get to an aero position. my shoulders are over my hands on the drop bars. I need a super custom stem. to drop the stack and increase the reach. or a custom frame. Which is just not an option aka they are super expensive. My hands are always going to feel pressure because I have a lot of weight in my long torso. my inseam is 28 inchs and I am 6 ft tall. thats the average inseam for someone who is 5'3. My torso from the iliac crest to c7 is 24 inches. to put that into perspective. the avg torso for some who is 6ft. is 19 inchs. I was just looking and 24 inchs avg from L3 to c7... is the same as someone who is way 7 ft tall.... and my arms fit my torso. So my reach is like 15cm more than the avg 6ft tall person conservatory. my wing span is 6'5. so maybe a touch shorter. even the longest stems I can find are too short. I found a 220mm stem for my bike shaped object aka my beater. BTW this is a 218 build with the longest reach bars. they come with. It most likely the best sizing for me with every frame I was looking at. I did think about this build before I pulled the trigger.
Long and low is what I need. There isnt a bike long enough.
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If you are in Boulder, Colorado or Austin, Texas, I recommend you to see Colby Pearce(CO) or Jerry Gerlich(TX). They are really knowledgeable about physiology and uses bike fitting methods that is out of this world. They will surely fix your problem regarding your unusual body and will get you riding comfortable on your bike.
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Problem is there is no correct frame on the market. They dont make one , not even close. I need a ton more reach. my bike isnt long enough. when I get to an aero position. my shoulders are over my hands on the drop bars. I need a super custom stem. to drop the stack and increase the reach. or a custom frame. Which is just not an option aka they are super expensive. My hands are always going to feel pressure because I have a lot of weight in my long torso. my inseam is 28 inchs and I am 6 ft tall. thats the average inseam for someone who is 5'3. My torso from the iliac crest to c7 is 24 inches. to put that into perspective. the avg torso for some who is 6ft. is 19 inchs. I was just looking and 24 inchs avg from L3 to c7... is the same as someone who is way 7 ft tall.... and my arms fit my torso. So my reach is like 15cm more than the avg 6ft tall person conservatory. my wing span is 6'5. so maybe a touch shorter. even the longest stems I can find are too short. I found a 220mm stem for my bike shaped object aka my beater. BTW this is a 218 build with the longest reach bars. they come with. It most likely the best sizing for me with every frame I was looking at. I did think about this build before I pulled the trigger.
Long and low is what I need. There isnt a bike long enough.
You’ve listed all these things yet you think swapping the saddle is going to make some miraculous change for you.
It wont, so get a bike fit and sort this out one and for all.
Alternatively buy the bike that you were happily riding for hours at Burningman. If it means riding a cruiser or whatever it was, then at least you can ride. Waaaay better than contorting yourself onto a bike that clearly doesn’t suit or fit you.
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You’ve listed all these things yet you think swapping the saddle is going to make some miraculous change for you.
It wont, so get a bike fit and sort this out one and for all.
Alternatively buy the bike that you were happily riding for hours at Burningman. If it means riding a cruiser or whatever it was, then at least you can ride. Waaaay better than contorting yourself onto a bike that clearly doesn’t suit or fit you.
Yes, I am going to need a custom solution. So a bike fit is only going to be part of the ultimate solution. So I am focusing on what is actually becoming more uncomfortable aka the saddle. I am going to get some new shorts incase the padding is part of the problem. I have saddle height dialed in. Q factor perfect....Also bike fitting is all subjective. there has been a few studies. and bike fitters dont agree on fits. You can go to 100 different fitters and get 100 different fits. Its note going to magically get the perfect fit only ball park. Also I am radiologic technologist. So I know anatomy extremely well. and I know that the saddle is pressure on my sit bones and soft tissues. It feels too flat. fine for short rides. As I said before. I am very in tune. So try a saddle or two frist. I am very frustrated with bike geometry yelling at me isnt productive. I was trying to explain. I know my situation.
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If you are in Boulder, Colorado or Austin, Texas, I recommend you to see Colby Pearce(CO) or Jerry Gerlich(TX). They are really knowledgeable about physiology and uses bike fitting methods that is out of this world. They will surely fix your problem regarding your unusual body and will get you riding comfortable on your bike.
I am in Los angeles. and bike fits only can get you so far. there is no perfit fits. the can get you to the ball park. and no fit is going to be the same. and you wont catch me in Tx. its hostile to women not to get political. If you got a req out my way I would be happy to take it.
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Problem is there is no correct frame on the market. They dont make one , not even close. I need a ton more reach. my bike isnt long enough. when I get to an aero position. my shoulders are over my hands on the drop bars. I need a super custom stem. to drop the stack and increase the reach. or a custom frame. Which is just not an option aka they are super expensive. My hands are always going to feel pressure because I have a lot of weight in my long torso. my inseam is 28 inchs and I am 6 ft tall. thats the average inseam for someone who is 5'3. My torso from the iliac crest to c7 is 24 inches. to put that into perspective. the avg torso for some who is 6ft. is 19 inchs. I was just looking and 24 inchs avg from L3 to c7... is the same as someone who is way 7 ft tall.... and my arms fit my torso. So my reach is like 15cm more than the avg 6ft tall person conservatory. my wing span is 6'5. so maybe a touch shorter. even the longest stems I can find are too short. I found a 220mm stem for my bike shaped object aka my beater. BTW this is a 218 build with the longest reach bars. they come with. It most likely the best sizing for me with every frame I was looking at. I did think about this build before I pulled the trigger.
Long and low is what I need. There isnt a bike long enough.
That's a seriously crazy height to inseam ratio to the point that getting a frame with custom geo would probably make a huge difference for you. My friend who is 5'5" with a 28" inseam already struggles to find bikes he can stand over. 100% see a fitter a get their recommendation. It could absolutely save you money in the long term if you're constantly trying new bike parts to get a bike to fit you better. I'll ask my former teammate who lives in LA if she can recommend a fitter. Also maybe look into Walty, they make custom Ti frames. Just get a fitter to recommend some bike geo and then give that to a frame builder. I know it's expensive but a Ti bike can last you the rest of your life. I got a Ti frame from a builder in Santa Cruz and it's been amazing. I'm a bike nerd with several bikes but I've put almost 20K miles on the Ti one since I got it in early 2020, way more miles than any of my other bikes have gotten.
Putting an ultra long stem is not an ideal solution. It'll make your weight distribution way off from how the bike was intended and will make your steering hella sluggish. Particularly relaxed geometry tends to be much more comfortable to a wider range of people. I saw it all the time with my teammates. They get into racing and eventually get a new race bike and be like, "wow I really took for granted how well my old bike fit me, this one just isn't as comfortable." and I always tell them it's not that their old bike fit was good, it's just that it was super relaxed and upright so of course it was more comfortable. If you go from something more cruiser-y to a more performance/road bike it's definitely harder to get the fit right. There is no "one perfect fit" for each individual either. My bikes all have slightly different fits, some are more relaxed, some more aggressive. The main thing that stays the same is my saddle height. I use the Mixed 5D saddle from AliExpress on most of my bikes but the more upright one has a Mixed 6D which is wider and has more padding. The part of your pelvis that makes contact with the saddle narrows as you lean forward so you tend to want narrower saddles on bikes with a lower front end. If I sit straight up, my sitbone width is like 155mm but if I lean forward it goes down to like 120mm.
I attached a screenshot from BikeGeoCalc of what a frame built for someone with your dimensions would probably look like. Take the exact numbers with a grain of salt, there where some big estimates in there. It's basically sort of "normal" geometry for an XS frame but with a super long top tube. It's extremely lightly based on my 5'5" friend's 49cm Salsa Stormchaser. He always has to size down and put longer stems on his bikes.
As a side note, I think bikes should be for everyone and it sucks how hard (and expensive) it can be to get a good bike fit when you have body proportions so far from the average.
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That's a seriously crazy height to inseam ratio to the point that getting a frame with custom geo would probably make a huge difference for you. My friend who is 5'5" with a 28" inseam already struggles to find bikes he can stand over. 100% see a fitter a get their recommendation. It could absolutely save you money in the long term if you're constantly trying new bike parts to get a bike to fit you better. I'll ask my former teammate who lives in LA if she can recommend a fitter. Also maybe look into Walty, they make custom Ti frames. Just get a fitter to recommend some bike geo and then give that to a frame builder. I know it's expensive but a Ti bike can last you the rest of your life. I got a Ti frame from a builder in Santa Cruz and it's been amazing. I'm a bike nerd with several bikes but I've put almost 20K miles on the Ti one since I got it in early 2020, way more miles than any of my other bikes have gotten.
Putting an ultra long stem is not an ideal solution. It'll make your weight distribution way off from how the bike was intended and will make your steering hella sluggish.
that is a sexy bike frame. just
I would love to buy a new bike but its not in the cards rigth now. which is like 2k plus wheels and group set. (maybe if I find a place that pays more than now... I am in healthcare and most places are looking to tighten their belt. and a lot of workers will be looking for new jobs too as rural areas shut down care centers. thank you GOP killing aca subsides.) and sluggish is fine if its comfy. I am not racing. its my fun exercise bike. I can get a Ti or AL 3d printed stem made. AL is going to be super cheap compared and would last as long as the carbon frame. probably longer. I have a set of skills in 3d design and printing. its a hobby. I could even design it to have some fast mount tt bars. I would love to hear any recommendations for fitters. also I can just barely tipy toe when on the seat. I can stand over the top tube with cleats on. though not comfortably. I have big hands and feet. I wish we could have custom handle/stem combo.
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I am in Los angeles. and bike fits only can get you so far. there is no perfit fits. the can get you to the ball park. and no fit is going to be the same. and you wont catch me in Tx. its hostile to women not to get political. If you got a req out my way I would be happy to take it.
I read the thread and would say you'd be more successful with "fit first-bike second" approach.
Go to some reputable fitter who has customizable stand such as Retül Move to measure optimal dimensions of the future frame and bike in general. After that it is better to get to a professional frame builder who can weld a frame for you. Nicely done Cr-Mo bike that suits you well will be much more enjoyable than any attempt to bodge typical frame for non-typical body proportions... and save you money in a long run.
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Other than the head tube angle the suggested frame geometry looks very much like a mountain bike. Run with a road cockpit and rigid fork it'd easily get you the length you need at the expense of sluggish steering. I've no idea about USA pricing but in the UK 27.5 ht frames can be picked up cheaply second hand and will have plenty of room for 700c rims and road tyres.
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Other than the head tube angle the suggested frame geometry looks very much like a mountain bike. Run with a road cockpit and rigid fork it'd easily get you the length you need at the expense of sluggish steering. I've no idea about USA pricing but in the UK 27.5 ht frames can be picked up cheaply second hand and will have plenty of room for 700c rims and road tyres.
Naw there are some big differences. looking at the stigmata 4... The Effective tube length is still much too short and the seat tube is way too tall. same with the head tube height. Now the krampus is a little better but its a heavy steel frame . Swap the fork to a 27 or 700c ,the head tube angle is better but it swings forward the seat tube too but its still heavy. There is no good bike frames for me. I still need to do a bike fit. like frame that was worked up is still probably a touch too small with effective tube length. As its only 2 in longer than my current bike.
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You might benefit from ditching the integrated bars and go for something separate so you can add length.
You sound like you’re trying to fit a lot of body in a small space, and that’ll make you sit strangely, or on the wrong part of the saddle.
That’s why is doubting any saddle would offer much, if any, improvement. A few mm of saddle width really won’t make that much difference.
I build custom bike for people and most are on an endless quest for a more comfortable saddle. Most of the time, the current saddle is fine but the position is wrong which is causing the discomfort.
A saddle that can be found quite cheaply on eBay is a fizik antares VS. It’s quite old now, but it’s a good all rounder that works for quite a lot of different users.
I was looking more at the shape of the two saddles over width alone. The current saddle is quite flat. where the ryet aircode has that broad saddle With a nice curve. over the sit area. I think with the other being flat it is causeing exessive pressure. I am looking at alot more than just how wide thigs are.