Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: jonathanf2 on November 28, 2025, 01:32:11 PM
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810114539899.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810114539899.html)
I recently received my Cruz carbon crankset with 24mm titanium axle. It comes in either 3 or 8 bolt direct mount and either in 165mm or 170mm crank arm length. I picked the 3 bolt 165mm version so I can use my 3 bolt Magene spider power meter.
Here's my quick first impressions (which I posted in another thread):
I installed it last night. It required 2x 1mm spacers which I placed on each side to properly tighten the crankset on my BB86 frameset. Spacing may differ depending your bottom bracket shell. I also used a 3 bolt adjustment spacer to create clearance between my drive side crank arm and my LTwoo eR9 FD. Without it, the drive side crank arm would rub against the FD. I probably could have put 2mm spacers or more on the drive side axle, but I don't like messing with the chain line too much. The ER9 FD has a narrow adjustment window of optimal performance. If I push my chain line outboard too much, front shifting is compromised.
I did run into an issue with the drive side pedal thread being too tight. I was able to get the pedal on with ample grease, but it probably needs a proper re-tap. For now I'll leave it as-is.
I've attached a few photos of the crankset and how it looks on my bike. Advertised weight was 320g for 165mm, mine came out just a little over 309g. I think they look good. I'm a bit bias towards glossy carbon fiber! ;)
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Hi, I'm keeping an eye on them too, but the photos on Ali weren't great; yours give a better idea of the build.
I also notice that it requires a dub extractor cap, which isn't visible on the Ali insertion.
Anso, can you measure the Q-factor?
Thanks.
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I also notice that it requires a dub extractor cap, which isn't visible on the Ali insertion.
Interesting... does this perhaps mean you can replace the alu hardware on these with an aftermarket SRAM DUB one?
Something that's put me off these cranks to date (as a diehard Shimano crank user) is the chance of the alu bolts shearing/getting knackered after a few BB changes.
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Interesting... does this perhaps mean you can replace the alu hardware on these with an aftermarket SRAM DUB one?
Something that's put me off these cranks to date (as a diehard Shimano crank user) is the chance of the alu bolts shearing/getting knackered after a few BB changes.
I have an extraction tool and I already have a few replacement screws just in case. I'm not fond of the alu hardware either. I had to make a few adjustments removing the BB to get the cranks to fit properly. Each time I removed the arm, I was checking the screw.
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Hi, I'm keeping an eye on them too, but the photos on Ali weren't great; yours give a better idea of the build.
I also notice that it requires a dub extractor cap, which isn't visible on the Ali insertion.
Anso, can you measure the Q-factor?
Thanks.
I think the 8 and 3 bolt crank arms use different caps. The photos on the listing was the 8 bolt version. I'll measure the q-factor when I get a chance. I think it's a bit shorter than my 170mm Riro cranks I was using, because I didn't have clearance issues with the FD on that crankset.
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I ordered the same crankset with 3-bolt system, but I am confused about why I need the dub extractor tool. Most online tutorial videos only require an 8mm hex tool for installation. What is the purpose of it?
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I ordered the same crankset with 3-bolt system, but I am confused about why I need the dub extractor tool. Most online tutorial videos only require an 8mm hex tool for installation. What is the purpose of it?
If you constantly remove the crankset, there's a chance you can shear the aluminum screw. Hence they sell plenty of replacement caps and screw if you find yourself in that predicament. ;)
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If you constantly remove the crankset, there's a chance you can shear the aluminum screw. Hence they sell plenty of replacement caps and screw if you find yourself in that predicament. ;)
Ok, cool, I am happy I don't need it just to install the crank, as the it will arrive early next week. Otherwise, I would have to wait to install it for another two weeks until the dub extractor tool arrives. :)
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I ordered the same crankset with 3-bolt system, but I am confused about why I need the dub extractor tool. Most online tutorial videos only require an 8mm hex tool for installation. What is the purpose of it?
Do you mind take a couple of measurements without the spider attached. Firstly, the spindle length with the arms attached and torqued down. And the factor in the same position. Cheers.
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Interesting... does this perhaps mean you can replace the alu hardware on these with an aftermarket SRAM DUB one?
Something that's put me off these cranks to date (as a diehard Shimano crank user) is the chance of the alu bolts shearing/getting knackered after a few BB changes.
This is the case for most of these lightweight cranks. For the peace of mind I replaced the shitty lightweight alloy furniture with titanium screws.
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This is the case for most of these lightweight cranks. For the peace of mind I replaced the shitty lightweight alloy furniture with titanium screws.
Do you mind sharing a link where we can find these parts ?
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Do you mind sharing a link where we can find these parts ?
I have milling guy and he crafted screws using original parts as a reference. He also made a couple of these for few other forum members. Unfortunately, for external reasons, that option is not available anymore.
I saw some Ti screws for Elilee cranks on Ali, I think the name of the store was S-parts or something like that. They may fit these cranks but I didn't look into the lot close enough.
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Titanium dub screw:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809891285021.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809891285021.html)
I'm guessing these might fit? You'd have to get 2 if you want both sides. Or just leave the axle in-place on the non-drive side and replace the drive side with the titanium components.
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Do you mind take a couple of measurements without the spider attached. Firstly, the spindle length with the arms attached and torqued down. And the factor in the same position. Cheers.
I should have measured the cranks before I attached everything, but I want to minimize wear so I don't see myself disassembling the crankset anytime soon. Maybe some of the people who've ordered the crankset can do the measurements before installing it?
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Super annoying, but a standard 4 pin DUB crank tool doesn't fit on the Cruz crankset. The pin placement is slightly smaller in sq. length. I think it might be similar to a Riro crankset screw cover. Any suggestion on a 4 pin tool that might fit?
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On my rockbros dub crank the bolt diameter is M16, and also i think cybrei dub crank is M16
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On my rockbros dub crank the bolt diameter is M16, and also i think cybrei dub crank is M16
I attached a photo highlighting the screw cover. It's slightly smaller than the regular 4 pin DUB tool. The pins on the Cruz crankset is slightly smaller, so I want to surce the tool that can remove the cover.
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I attached a photo highlighting the screw cover. It's slightly smaller than the regular 4 pin DUB tool. The pins on the Cruz crankset is slightly smaller, so I want to surce the tool that can remove the cover.
Any auto parts store or Harbor Freight will have a snap ring tool that looks like a pair of pliers with pins that clamp in the tips at either 90 degrees or straight. While its really for removing snap rings I've used it as a universal pin wrench. https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-63845.html? Park tools makes a dedicated adjustable pin spanner but its over $30.
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Any auto parts store or Harbor Freight will have a snap ring tool that looks like a pair of pliers with pins that clamp in the tips at either 90 degrees or straight. While its really for removing snap rings I've used it as a universal pin wrench. https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-63845.html? Park tools makes a dedicated adjustable pin spanner but its over $30.
I messaged the Cycool Store that sells the Cruz crankset and they replied recommending circlip pliers. It makes me think there must be some tool available specifically for this 4 pin cover since there are several cranksets that use it.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807934909985.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807934909985.html)
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I messaged the Cycool Store that sells the Cruz crankset and they replied recommending circlip pliers. It makes me think there must be some tool available specifically for this 4 pin cover since there are several cranksets that use it.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807934909985.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807934909985.html)
Yeah, those are what I meant by snapring pliers.
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I received my crank today, and as I was installing the chainrings, I stripped one of the bolts. Honestly, it was my mistake as I was torquing the screws under angle, and I panicked a little afterwards which led to repeating the mistake multiple times. I am posting this to warn others to be careful, or replace the torx screws with hex ones -- torx, in my experience, is extremely easy to strip.
I hope I will be able to extract the screw tomorrow with the screw extractor toolkit.
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I received my crank today, and as I was installing the chainrings, I stripped one of the bolts. Honestly, it was my mistake as I was torquing the screws under angle, and I panicked a little afterwards which led to repeating the mistake multiple times. I am posting this to warn others to be careful, or replace the torx screws with hex ones -- torx, in my experience, is extremely easy to strip.
I hope I will be able to extract the screw tomorrow with the screw extractor toolkit.
Yeah, 3 bolt direct mount sucks at times. If if it wasn't for my 3-bolt Magene power meters, I would have preferred a different chainring mount.
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I attached a photo highlighting the screw cover. It's slightly smaller than the regular 4 pin DUB tool. The pins on the Cruz crankset is slightly smaller, so I want to surce the tool that can remove the cover.
@jonathanf2 did you get anywhere figuring this out?
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@jonathanf2 did you get anywhere figuring this out?
The vendor said just use jaw ring pliers. Make sure to get pliers with a sub 2mm tip to fit properly. I pick these up from Amazon US:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMXJGDDD (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMXJGDDD)
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And did you replace the lockrings/bolts with DUB ones? Sorry for all the questions.
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And did you replace the lockrings/bolts with DUB ones? Sorry for all the questions.
No not yet. I plan on using this crankset on another build, so I don't want to mess with it too much.
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What chain rings are people running? This crankset looks great, but adding a spider adds a lot of weight. Ends up being not that much lighter then ultegra for much more.
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What chain rings are people running? This crankset looks great, but adding a spider adds a lot of weight. Ends up being not that much lighter then ultegra for much more.
Yeah, but does that Ultegra crankset have a power meter attached? ;D
I'm running Stone chainrings. They look good and shift near or at the same level as Shimano chainrings.
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Hi, I have been using this crankset for about 2000km, and I am not sure whether this has been an issue from the beginning or did it come up just in the last ~200km: the drive side has some play, presumably between the carbon crank arm and the part that holds it onto the spindle. I say *presumably* because everything is fully tightened (the crank arm onto the spindle, as well as the chainrings), and only the arm moves -- the chainrings and the non-drive side arm stay in place, so this is an indication that the issue is elsewhere.
A little bit of the movement is present in the lateral direction (but that is perceivable on the non-drive side to a lesser extent as well), and a noticeable amount when I clip on with my shoes and move the crank back and forth in the spinning direction. I might try to record the movement somehow, but it is difficult to capture as I can't hold everything completely still to capture the play.
Anyone else having this issue? Do you think it is dangerous? I will probably message the AliExpress seller anyway in hopes of them recognizing the issue and sending me a new arm.
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Hi, I have been using this crankset for about 2000km, and I am not sure whether this has been an issue from the beginning or did it come up just in the last ~200km: the drive side has some play, presumably between the carbon crank arm and the part that holds it onto the spindle. I say *presumably* because everything is fully tightened (the crank arm onto the spindle, as well as the chainrings), and only the arm moves -- the chainrings and the non-drive side arm stay in place, so this is an indication that the issue is elsewhere.
A little bit of the movement is present in the lateral direction (but that is perceivable on the non-drive side to a lesser extent as well), and a noticeable amount when I clip on with my shoes and move the crank back and forth in the spinning direction. I might try to record the movement somehow, but it is difficult to capture as I can't hold everything completely still to capture the play.
Anyone else having this issue? Do you think it is dangerous? I will probably message the AliExpress seller anyway in hopes of them recognizing the issue and sending me a new arm.
Is it possible you might need additional spacers? I use .5mm delrin axle spacers from Wheels Manufacturing to dial in my crankset fit perfectly. Also I'd take off the crankset and check if the alloy mounts inside carbon arms to make sure they haven't de-bonded.
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Is it possible you might need additional spacers? I use .5mm delrin axle spacers from Wheels Manufacturing to dial in my crankset fit perfectly. Also I'd take off the crankset and check if the alloy mounts inside carbon arms to make sure they haven't de-bonded.
Where do you have a spacer? Between the crank arm and the chainring, or the chainring and the bottom bracket? I have one (I think 0.5mm) between the chainring and the BB so they don't rub.
I will take the crank off again in the following days and inspect it. I don't know what exactly to look for, but I will post pictures and anyone more knowledgeable can maybe help.
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Where do you have a spacer? Between the crank arm and the chainring, or the chainring and the bottom bracket? I have one (I think 0.5mm) between the chainring and the BB so they don't rub.
I will take the crank off again in the following days and inspect it. I don't know what exactly to look for, but I will post pictures and anyone more knowledgeable can maybe help.
My spacer is between the axle and chainring. On the frame I'm using the Cruz crankset, I actually needed the crankset to be slightly outboard to create more space between my FD and crank arm. Without the space, my 165mm crank arm rubs against my LTwoo ER9 FD.
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Ok, FYI, I found some time to take off the crankset and recorded the issue. I am attaching the video to this post. I am thinking that tightening the lock ring could maybe resolve the issue, but I need to get to a set of appropriate pliers to do the job. Let me know if you have any ideas.
I am also in contact with the AliExpress seller, and I will let you know once they respond.
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Ok, FYI, I found some time to take off the crankset and recorded the issue. I am attaching the video to this post. I am thinking that tightening the lock ring could maybe resolve the issue, but I need to get to a set of appropriate pliers to do the job. Let me know if you have any ideas.
I am also in contact with the AliExpress seller, and I will let you know once they respond.
After watching the video, it looks like you just need to use the jaw ring pliers to tighten the lock ring. Should be an easy fix.
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After watching the video, it looks like you just need to use the jaw ring pliers to tighten the lock ring. Should be an easy fix.
I tried, but the lock ring did not want to turn at all. It is possible that the pliers were slightly too small as they slipped a couple of times.
I actually came back to this topic to let anyone who runs into a similar problem in the future that the seller has agreed to send me a new crank arm after seeing the video. They were very nice and the customer experience has been nothing but flawless.