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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts Riding a 42.5 shock I can tell you the chance of having isseus is minimal. Rode a bikepark!! with this bike without problems. Even cleared a jump of several meters!
Did also some enduro tracks in the Dolomites(Italien Alps) as xc biking there and it was great. Better than last years biking with a canyon nerve; better going up and way better going down.
My2c

Pics


July 20, 2020, 04:01:52 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
My advice would be to forgo the reach and stack to match your current bikes and just set the seat based on the larger size. Others have fallen into the trap you are leaning toward and it hasn’t worked out. You want to be in this bike: long, low, and slack. Matching the reach and stack isn’t critical important on a MTB. You move and constantly adjust your body based on several factors. You want to be low in this bike, not high on it. ;)

and I'm guessing his saddle pushed back far behind the BB is the result of the older, shorter geometry - very bad.


Behind the BB over the rear wheel is inefficient for pedaling and traction - look at the saddle position of the most efficient pedalers in cycling (hint they do TT).



 

November 05, 2020, 06:10:52 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Hi Quentin, thanks for all those graphics and don't want to deviate the thread, but even when the saddle/handlebar distance is the same, the pedaling position it is not. In this example you are much more over the BB which I don't want to change from my actual bike as I train on three different bikes and have it dialed in terms of power and comfort, this is why I think it would be easier for me to get that position on a M frame. I would like to keep the same saddle to BB height/offset and distance to the handlebar. Maybe it would not be possible on a L as the reach is much longer.
Just curious, what are your other 2 bikes?  Here's some potential perspective.  Take the example that you get a bike fit on a road bike, the fit is done on a stationary trainer.  There will be an ideal saddle height, set back, and tilt to maximize power and minimize discomfort.  This is important because you are always seated in the same position and grades are not as steep as MTB trails.  For an MTB, the "perfect" pedal position is less important in general because you're constantly moving around and shifting your weight, therefore the best position is a balance between good fit and weight balance.  Now what if you redid your bike fit, but you lifted the front tire up enough to match a 5 or 10% grade?  You'd push the saddle forward to compensate, since the STA gets slacker.  It's true that when you go back to flat ground, it's a compromised position, but if your trails are constant up and down, does that matter?  Take this with a grain of salt, the new style geometry isn't for everyone.  I'd bet that a bike with a 69 deg HTA and 73 deg STA would be faster on flatter XC trails than the newer bikes with 66 deg HTA and 76 deg STA, especially tight courses.  But if that's what your trails are like and you want the perfect pedaling position on flat ground, then this likely isn't the bike for you.  If you downsize and push the saddle back, you'll just end up with a rearward weight balance, it'll be hard to weight the front tire in corners and won't feel right.  The slack HTA, steep STA, long reach, and long wheelbase all play together.

November 05, 2020, 08:55:34 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Here is Patxi Cia's bike, a Spanish xc racer which is built with the same approach (xc/xcm aggressive riding). He is shorter (1'75 mtrs) and rides a S size.
B
A 9'8kg rocket
Mein Gott! Looks terrible. Trying to make oldschool xc\road bike from frame with modern geometry is bad idea. If you want oldschool xc bike, that frame is just not your choise.

November 06, 2020, 05:00:14 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts I have not yet been able to release the bike. 
The xfusion is not carbonda.  The Xfusion shock absorber is 165x45 and I have to return it to the guy who buys it, since the shock absorber measurements went wrong. 
I have never used these tires, we will see how they work.
 The suntour aion is in 120mm.

November 16, 2020, 02:34:05 AM
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Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29 Just got this email from "Gavin" at LightCarbon

Hi Ray,

Thanks for your reply.

As I check your website, it seems that you are not doing bike business.
LCFS947 is our 2021 new model full suspension enduro frame. This model is
designed to sell to OE clients only.
If you just want one frame for personal use, I'm afraid we can not supply.
Hope you can kindly understand.

You can check our website, to see if there are some other models be your
interest. Thanks.

Best regards,
Gavin Woo | Sales Manager

November 16, 2020, 09:10:21 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Thanks for the feedback! Where did you order your Novatec hubs and Pillar spokes?

Just don't use Pillar alloy nipples.
They disintegrate and seize with the spoke after a couple of years.
They may have improved during the last 5 years.
Either use Sapim ones, or brass if you don't mind the grams.

Recently when looking to build the cheapest wheels possible with Lightbicycle.
The price between the Pillar 1420 and Sapim CX-Ray wasn't a big difference, about 30-40€ if I remember well.

November 22, 2020, 11:04:51 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
729 € for blue with twist lock
749 € for black with twist lock

I bought a black but there were only a 2 in stock when i paid.
So i got the other one - when i paid, there was 1 in stock  ;)
(Didn't want to disappoint anybody, so i didn't tell in this thread)

November 23, 2020, 07:52:40 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
This is not her private email, the benefits of having an email address on a forum like this outweigh the risks.
She will get some spam sure, but more sales too.

Pretty sure he just meant to change the format of it so it doesn't get picked up by bots scanning forums and subscribed to a million mailing lists.

December 01, 2020, 05:07:19 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Do you know if the Rockshox twist lock remote will work with the DTSwiss shock?
I already have the fork :-\
I can't tell anymore where i read about it, but i think the DT Swiss dual position system works with 5.5 mm cable pull for each step, so 10 mm cable pull from RS twistloc might not give a full lockout, but close to. I think i'll try that out when the frame has arrived (it's getting painted at the moment).

Meanwhile, I'm not too sure where the remote lockout cable is routed out of the frame, as with the DT Swiss shock the cable stopper would be oriented right down in the direction of the BB. Could get "interesting" to connect the cable when it is routed from below the bottle holder screws... Or am i just thinking the wrong way? ???

December 06, 2020, 04:41:49 AM
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